How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS

When we met by chance in the summer of 1999, she was a one owner commuter; garage kept and well cared for. It was a love at first site that would change my life forever. I named her ichimokusan but a year later I would start calling her The Shop Whore because she like to be on her back on a lift letting the mechanic fuck with her. She didn’t blink a headlight as I forked out almost $10,000 over 18 months and what’s worse, neither did I. Who know you could have an S&M relationship with a motorcycle? She kept hurting my wallet and I kept coming back for more. She owned me.


After 181,000 miles shared together, making her carry WAY more than her makers ever designed for and trying hard as hell to convince her she was indeed a dirt bike and just needed more practice, the toll was too great. I put her out to pasture in hopes that one day I would have the time and money needed to do a full restoration.

Instead, one day never came and years pasted and she became an edifice to my desire exceeding my resources.

Last week as I looking for ways to save or create funds to make ends meet, I thought I could sell her for parts because she was worth more dead than alive.

It was killing me to think about it. I stared at own failure to honor my trust to take good care of her. I felt guilty for sitting on the potential resources she could provide for my family.



I was crying while trying to pulling The Shop Whore apart but I Jim Beam will ease any pain…for a while.


You can't know what this bike has meant to me and you can't know how deeply I have loved it. I don't expected anyone to understand how I feel about my K11's not even my husband. He dose try though, or at least doesn’t dismiss my feelings.

The next morning we talked and it was agreed we would find the money somewhere to make ends meet.



This has been her sad tomb for over three years













After skinning her, I started gutting her.




I disemboweled her.




Bleeding it out is best done before gutting, but in my distressed state of mind I forgot this.




Next hang it up but I would suggest not using suboptimum string, even if it’s all you have laying around; smashed fingers will delay proceeding



Now It’s mostly apart




And the wiring harness is mostly intact.






Remember the bleeding before gutting part…just sayin’



This week I’ll start cleaning, bagging and tagging parts and making a shopping list.




Tomorrow I’ll mount the engine.





My basement aka workshop when I last saw it.




After the New Year I’ll start by powder coating the frame dark blue.


Anton has always been so kind to me and supportive of my wrenching. When I spoke with him this week he offered to help show me how to do a complete top end, rings and water/oil pump rebuild.

I’m glad to be owning my responsibility to The Shop Whore and I hope with the extra hours I’m working at the hospital and possible second part time job I could be done in 1 year.



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BMWs are a handful. You have 2 handsful! Keep the report coming. Good project.

Go get 'em Shogs.

If there is anyone I know that can pull this off, it is you.

Maybe it would make an appearance at HM VII? (2015)

I'm in. I have a soft spot for K bricks and enjoy reading your threads.

I love a story of devotion to a machine.

I'm in... Love those old flyin' bricks

Mike

Pardon my ignorance Gwen, but what prompted you to give up on Ichi several years ago and put it out to pasture?? I must have missed the prologue. Thanks, Ducky.

i believe a pretty blue stable mate showed up...

Because of this post, I've made it my dead line. If there is anyway under the sun, I'm going to make Hungry Mother VII her coming out party debut.

Ducky, andruboz is correct.

So I got all the parts kinda organized.

I skipped cleaning anything and I only labeled a few things. I may regret that later, but what the hell, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Here's all the small parts.



And here's all the big parts.































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Next, get the engine off the floor.

Using the intermediate housing bolts hole for the engine mount seems natural however the bracket I'm using is for car engines. That is to say it's real big when compared to the back side of a k1100 transmission housing.

I took some measurements and determined I needed (4) 8M x 1.25 x 80 bolts.
Ace Hardware, Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Lowes didn't have any but NAPA did.




Steve showed me how to use washers to provide a good contact surface, shim the bolts and help center them in the bracket.

After 30 min. of trying several combinations of bolt locations I found one that would work. I didn't want to use the mounting pin locations but found I had no choice.



So I shimmed it with a pair of washers to help transfer the force to the housing.











I did much better using this home made lifting system this time and things went smoothly. Especially considering I've never done anything like this.












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When you get finished it will be better than new. Nice project.

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Next, remove everything from the frame.




The red circles are to help me remember where these parts go later.


























The BMW Service Manual said to mark these so I did. The Clymer did not.
Can anyone tell me why?




This needs 'splainin'.




I could not loosen the nut on top of the steering head with a ratchet or a ratchet AND a hammer. I kept doubting myself and read and re-read both the Clymer and the Service book.





So I used a ratchet and the pipe for leverage to turn the nut and a crescent wrench to hold the big nut.

I'm sure now I still did it wrong.

What I was calling a 'nut' (number 3) was in fact a screw. I think I was supposed to hold that screw still and turn the real nut (number 4) below it.

Oh well, I'll deal with that later, what is done is done.





I had no problem tapping out the lower bearing race and the top was a SERIOUS PITA.


I've done steering head bearings and races before so this was not my first rodeo. But after 2-1/2 hours I gave up. I knew I did this without a race puller but I think the difference was that I didn't have the weight of the bike to help.


When Steve came home we went to the basement. He flipped the frame upside down and using a slide hammer to hook the race lip he used a real hammer to strike the slid handle.


In the future I'm going to get this awesome tool.

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php..._id=64&zenid=dd24e28b80aabab215b09df4b355fbec


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBdC8IkwfL4

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Will be watching

Yeah, I love threads like this!

I know I set HM VII (May 2014) as the dead line but Steve and I talked about the reality and the depth of this project last night.

If I only had $200 a month, that's only $2400.
The truth of the matter it will cost several thousand dollars.
Steve estimates $6000

Let me break it out as far as I understand this process.
(just off the top of my head)

1. Powder coat frame - Cobalt blue

2. Powder coat all of the following black.
Final Drive
Drive shaft housing
Intermediate housing
Exhaust protection plate
Exhaust bracket left
Both foot peg brackets (black with cobalt blue raised areas)
Transmission housing
shift lever
Triple clamp
fork tubes
handle bar (minus where the controls attach)
Clutch and brake handles
rear brake lever
brake caliper housings
"H" bracket
Rims with cobalt blue pin stripe
Center and side stands
alternator housing cover

Satin Black Velvet Ceramic coated exhaust headers

ChromeX bright polished aluminum ceramic coating exhaust can

Black Gloss Ceramic coating the following
Engine block
Oil sump
Oil pan cover
Timing chain cover
Crack case cover
Cylinder head cover with cobalt blue stripe


Assess every nut, bolt, washer and screw for stainless steel replacement

New wiring harness (I'll make this from scratch)

Rebuild the water/oil pump

Rebuild the top end

Rings and assess cam tolerances

Create functional crash/drop bars for front fairing

Create functional crash/drop bar for panniers

Replace panniers with NEW ones

Repaint the entire bike (color yet to be chosen)




Keep in mind to paint power train (front to rear) they will have to opened and gutted so there'll be a mess of one time use things that'll need to be bought.


Anton said he would help me with the deep engine work.

There are different blacks. For instance, I use what PCS calls 'frame black' for most stuff. It's a satin; I think it's 80% but they can tell you for sure. I have also used their gloss black which is 100%. Each has its place; don't assume you want all of it to be the same black; it might not give enough variation.

Unless you want to radically change the functionality of the wiring, I can't see any advantage to building your own harness.

As for the tools, remember you already bought the transmission seal installers. It doesn't make sense to buy the BMW tools that I have for just one use.

Thanks Anton. I agree with you on using slightly different blacks on those parts.
How to break it up will be a little challenging.
Any POV's about that, I'm always listening.

The wiring harness rebuild is for personal growth and the upside will be new wires VS 18 year old wires.
Heat and time degrade wire.

I just need a good pin remover tool.
I'm going to get this one.

NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone and Morton's BMW were no help even with me bringing in a connector.

http://www.toolking.com/eclipse-ce-...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CNb4iKTakrsCFUgS7AodAQwAPw

One more thing, I've learned that ceramic coating the engine block would not be advised so I'm going with either powder coating or paint.

Making one from scratch would be madness.
I'll making something like this, but not as fancy.





I like this guys pegboard idea a LOT!

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1706/PageID/2642/Project-Miatabusa-Part-6--The-Wiring-Job-From-Heck.aspx


All I'll be doing is making a mirror image of the busted one I have minus messed up parts.

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Don't buy that pin remover kit yet. There's a lot of K11 stuff that it won't work on.