Just had a seized cable as a result of corrosion. Only 6 months on the bike. It could have been a sea crossing where the whole bike was liberally doused by the waves, or standing in the rain, or it could have been slightly corroded from delivery, as the clutch and shift action after replacement is much better than it's ever been. I have a lube tool, another question is whether to use the supplied cable lube or a really good corrosion inhibitor I have (ACF-50). No WD40 thanks, I've proved that the ACF-50 works a lot better already. Sent from my Android chinaphone, please excuse the spelling
I been using transmission fluid on my throttle cables and clutch cable on all my bikes never had a broken cable yet in 600000 KM. I think as long as your using something to lube it its better then nothing .
Once you start lubing, you have to do it regularly. Dust gets stuck to the lubed cable and you have reoil to flush it out. I prefer not to lube and just replace the cable when it gets sticky.
Thanks for the info guys. About what I expected. Apart from my old Guzzi in the early 80s which had very stiff controls, I've never had an issue until now, at least on a motorcycle, and never lubed them. I've had cables freeze up in winter on my bicycle, due to moisture, but solved that with sealed and lined Gore Ride-on cables. Lubing worked a bit to solve that problem but wasn't a permanent solution, at least for sub 20F riding. It could also be that I'm in a much hotter, moist climate with no real garage, and I guess a few doses of salt water doesn't help either. I'll do a spray test with the cable lube to see how sticky it is, but my guess is that the ACF-50 or maybe 3M Teflon lube will be the way to go, as neither leave much sticky residue to trap dirt. Sent from my Android chinaphone, please excuse the spelling
I second that and add that some grease on both heads of the cables help avoid bending the wire at each control input, which is the main reason of failure.
If you have an uncoated steel cable, lube it. If you have a Teflon coated cable, don't lube it. Always grease the cable ends.
I'd have to agree with this. I've seen the lined cables start dragging because the inner cable eventually saws its way through the lining, creating drag. "Modern" cables seem to last a long time. Unless they get doused with salt water.
I would use a lube made for cables -- most of them have a solvent carrier that distributes the dry graphite lube where it needs to be, then evaporates. Nothing left to attract dust and grit.
How are they on corrosion? That was my problem on the cable I replaced. Sent from my Android chinaphone, please excuse the spelling
Dri-Slide Bike Aid is great stuff. Moly and graphite powders suspended in kerosene, and it comes with a needle to get between the cable sheath and cable. No spray getting everywhere, no rags, no leaky little gizmo or disconnecting the cables.Needle between the cable and sheath, squeeze gently, work the throttle or clutch a few times and yer done.
I don't know. Probably not great, but if you grease the cable ends, it acts as a barrier to keep moisture out of the cable sheath and let the dry lube continue to keep things smooth.
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