1150GS Spline Lube(?) Fail WTF!!!???

Did the spline lube procedure a month ago.....splines in perfect shape after 100k!

Today was warm enough and with the rain melting the ice in the driveway I decided to go for a ride!

Started the bike, backed it out of the shed, put it in gear to turn it around and....NOTHING! FAK!! She won't go. Bitch.

As far as I can tell, the driveshaft is turning up by the trans when I spin the rear wheel. And the bike does go into gear.

Any ideas as to WTF is the problem? Thanks in advance........

The clutch splines might be bound the clutch on the shaft. Give the clutch lever a few quick snaps see if that helps.

I snapped the clutch lever like a 13yr old boy with a

playboy.....

What does it sound like when you turn the wheel? If you shift gear does the sound change?

The sound does not change, as near as I can tell, when in gear.

What does it sound like? Hard to say......I've never listened to it before, but it sounds......normal. ? Like a rotating shaft.. nothing out of the ordinary.
No grinding, binding or clicking just smooth.

In reply to the post that, for some reason, I got an e-mail notification of but hasn't yet shown up here: Yes, I did remove the driveshaft. The U-joints where in good shape, as are the clutch and trans which where working fine before I did the spline lube. I doubt she's leaking but i'll check.


"
DcnCan has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - 1150GS Spline Lube(?) Fail WTF!!!??? - in the Oilhead Boxers forum of ADVrider.

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Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************
A. Clutch slipping
B. Clutch splines trashed
C. Input splines trashed
D. Output splines trashed
E. Front u-joint splines trashed
F. Front u-joint trashed
G. Rear u-joint splines trashed
H. Rear u-joint trashed
I. FD splines trashed
J. Transmission trashed

or some combination of the above

Did you remove the drive shaft when you greased the FD splines?

If a u-joint was busted you should hear it if power was getting to the output shaft of the transmission.

If when you let the clutch handle out in gear and all you get is additional revs with throttle then suspect clutch corrupted or splines shot at clutch or trans output.

Any tell tale signs of fluids around transmission, clutch housing, or elsewhere?
***************


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ADVrider"

Pull the starter out to see if the input shaft is turning. If the shaft and friction plate are turning you have bound splines.
If the shaft is not turning you have a gear box issue.

Thanks, I'll have to check that out.

Was this the first that the splines had been lubed since the bike was new? I'm just curious because I've read conflicting opinions on whether periodic lubing is necessary.

I am also interested in concensus from those smarter than I.

So far I haven't made any mistakes, I am at the whether or not stage??? Whether or not to bother with lube on clutch splines. I need some bearings and a lube of the driveshaft shaft but looking at the visible input splines I can't see any rust and the clutch action is good. How far is to far?

In answer to the OP's question I would be worried the clutch activation shaft was bent during removal and the clutch isn't returning/reseating. This could be an unfounded guess but I'm just learning.

??????????????????to be answered
drcool

As far as I know, its the first time they've(drive shaft splines) been lubed. But I got the bike at 60k. None of the records that came with the bike indicate this was done. I only removed the swingarm and final drive.

At about 75k(?) the rear main and the input shaft seal on the trans where leaking. While I had it apart to replace the seals I put in a new clutch(which I probably didn't need to) and all the splines where in great shape.

I think some of the replies are unclear on the symptoms. As I read them, the bike rolls but putting it in gear and releasing the clutch results in sound but no motion. Also, it can be moved with the clutch engaged and in gear. If so, you probably have a stripped input shaft and or clutch plate splines.

Hello,sorry to hear your tail of woe.Had exactly the same thing happen 500 miles after fitting an oem clutch.Took it apart to discover the splines had completely disintegrated on the clutch centre,but no damage to input splines.I have met 3 other people that this has happened to(2 on K bikes).Hope thats it.Regards Chris

When you reinstalled the drive shaft back to the output shaft of the transmission did you attach the driveshaft to Trans. output shaft - then attach the swingarm - then attach final drive and short section U/J to the driveshaft and swingarm???
Some have tried to attach the drive shaft to the trans output shaft with the final drive together as a whole unit and that makes it very difficult to get the shaft fully seated to the output shaft.

Order of re-assembly:
Swingarm
Driveshaft....with a 'firm tap' with a rubber mallet.
FD

Getting the FD back on was the most difficult.
And that stupid F'n IUD spring on the fronte swingarm boot.

I wonder if the engine transmission alignment can be screwed up by forcing the two together & tightening the bolts without using a precise alignment tool.

I know there are supposed to be two close fitting alignment pins (actually they are tubes) but the metal sections in the clutch housing are so thin that they may be simply deforming enough to accommodate a porly aligned clutch disc.

I suggest that maybe the transmission bolts should be left just a little loose until the clutch lever can be used to release the clutch & the whole thing tightened up while occasionally pulling in the clutch and spinning the clutch disc with the back wheel while tightening things.

You did have two alignment pins didn't you? Another possibility is a very loose rear main bearing in the engine but I'd think things would last a lot longer.

Disregard for the OP though!

Back in my old car days, when we were poor, we used a ratchet handle to "align" out clutch discs, then once we got the trans bolts started we would push the clutch lever and the trans would visably shift and settle in. Never needed to do this on a BMW motorcycle, but I could see how that might help.

Jim

Well, it looks like it's in the trans. I took out the starter and rotated the engine...trans input shaft turns, so the splines are good.

I'm going to take the swingarm and driveshaft back off and see.....something.?

Is it possible I buggered something up inside the trans when I 'tapped' the driveshaft back on? It didn't seem like it did. It felt as though it just overcame the same resistance as when popping it off.
:dog

Honestly, right now I'm thinking about going(back to)Japanese.

Not to long ago I replaced the final drive bearing. I got it all together and put it in gear and NOTHING! WTF!!. OK, all was well until when the bearing gave out so it had to be a induced problem. What is a mother to do? I had the bike on the center stand, front wheel secured to the center stand, put it in gear and the rear wheel rotated!

What had happened, was that I missed inserting the final drive shaft stub into the drive shaft - there is sufficient room to do that take my word. I made sure to get it on the second try and all is well.

So, if the clutch and the input are mated right then the only place the power can not be transmitted is in the drive shaft. Check to make sure you hit the drive shaft when you inserted the final drive.

Heck, I missed so other also have a shot at it. Give it a look see.

I had thought that( and still hope thats what it is) but it feels and sounds 'normal' when I rotate the FD.