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Old 03-17-2013, 05:05 PM   #16
Jim Day
full manic mechanic
 
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: So. Cal.
Oddometer: 697
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtatknox View Post
I went on an all-day drunk yesterday instead of working on the bike. I turned the ignition on, and the oil light came on. Turned the bike over 5-10x, oil pressure light went out - phew, I think it's not an oil pressure problem after all....
Sounds Better!!! Figured that might happen.


The Irony for me is this morning when I went to fire up my R65 I noticed my oil lights stopped working.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:15 PM   #17
jtatknox OP
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If it's the sender, I found the best tool for that was 12 point 24 mm deep socket. I think I paid $10 for the new switch.

Hopefully it's just the lamp, though.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:23 PM   #18
disston
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 8,797
Jtat,

You're not the first and won't be the last to have problems learning the procedure on this list or many others. You're actually doing very good. The bike is not ruined, that should count for something.

The gear oil often takes a couple of changes to get all the water out. Do continue. Now that you have changed it at least once ride the bike for 30 mins and change it again. Getting the oil hot helps. Also change the final drive and drive shaft oil at least once. I had water last year in my FD and still had water after three changes. Alls well now but I have never seen this before. And don't know how I got water in it anyway.

You should be using Dino Gear Oil of 80w-90 and rated for GL-5. Synthetic gear oils are not recommended but some riders do use them and next time we have a long drawn out fist fight over what kind of gear oil to use just try to follow along and maybe you will want to try it also. But for now; use what's in the book.

It was an infinite number of monkeys on an infinite number of typewriters. One monkey would never have an infinite amount of time to produce all the works of Shakespeare.
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