Got A Fuel Pump Problem DR Bean/SE

Bike idles fine, but under load not getting enough fuel to the point the bike just stops and on the autopista trying to get out of Medellin that is NOT good.

Switch off and on a few times and it gets enough for 100 meters then dies.

Pump has a Dr Bean board, there was a slight mist of moisture on top of the board.

Anyone had this issue or can suggest where to start or what to do, never had a fuel pump issue, bike been running flawlessly for the last 23000 km.

Ideas please gents.

The pump shaft can bind inside the pump and seize. It's then junk.

Always carry a spare pump, does'nt matter which type, version or mods done, they ALL can and do fail at some point.

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

Dr Bean is the Baldy of our Lowlands LC8 forum (in Dutch), I linked your post there, so he may chime in here.

There is a pump-mod thread. With 2 pumps failing because of water. In both cases, the electronics were still functional. In both cases, the soldered connection between the electronic board and the OEM wire was heavily corroded.
I would start there, and have a look at the mechanical part as suggested.

Sorry to hear that. I just fitted a Dr Bean board to my SE a few days ago and it works great. OK, are you sure your fuel lines are clear? If either is blocked the pump will think all is well and just sit there under pressure. Although I didn't try it, you should be able to push the plunger down to mimmick the solenoid. I'd dismounted the board first and move it aside so you don't damage it while messing with the plunger. If you can't push the plunger down and /or it won't spring back by itself then perhaps it's seized. Then I'd get some pliers on it and work the plunger in and out to free it. Surely if its seized it can't be that solid all of a sudden for this not to work.

If the pump part is free then you could prove the solenoid. If it was me I would unsolder the board and apply 12v across the solenoid and it should pull the plunger in.

Remember that Dr Bean says don't get petrol on the board or it might die, so keep it clean throughout.

Let us know how you get on.

Just had a thought...with a full tank isn't it supposed to run on gravity even with a dead pump whilst the fuel level is above the carbs? Could you use this to move around?

Facet. Stop shagging around!!!

ok. just got tipped by this thread.

My first guesses:
- a clotted fuel sieve in the tank (not enough fuel to the pump): To test: remove hose and let some fuel freely flow out of it.
- A high-resistive supply line to the Fuelpump (12v gets to the pump through the pump-relais, if this is bad the power at the pump will collaps as soon as teh pump starts pumping: This give a weak pump behavior where the pump-rod only makes fast and very small movements, hardly visible): to test: remove and bridge the fuelpump relais, OR test the power at the fuelpump-connector (or inside on the board) with a 20-60 Watt bulb (a headlight or so). Connect it to Blue-black versus Ground (brown or metal on bike)
- Pressure (underpressure) build up in the tank: Air venting clotted.: Test by opening the left tank fill: after this it should be fine for a while.

- my PCB: It works or it doesn't at all, except:...
* IF the optical detection is really dirty: It doesn't see the pump-rod any more and goes to safe-mode: 1 pumpstroke in about 2 seconds. That should be neough to stil run about 60km/h but not fullpower. This is could generate your problem. Check this by doing the fuelpump test below. Solve it: Clean PCB (mainly the black thing where the pumprod is going 'into'). carefully with soft brush and water with dishwashing soap. Make sure it is good and dry before switching on again.
* or IF power TO the PCB is failing because of fuelpump-rails or wire problems: not a kit problem but a supply problem)



Test whether it is a fuel-pump-problem:
*make sure to have a full tank (or at least the left half)
*take the outlett hose of the pump and connect it straight onto the fuel-tap on the tank, so the pump is removed from the line.
* disconnect the pump-electric connector, so the pump doest run dry.
You can now run the bike, and as long as the left tank is at least half full you should be able to run it. IF not, you have a different problem (e.g. the sieve in the tank could be full of dirt.

To test the pump:
* ignition & killswitch OFF
* remove outlet of fuelpump (going to the carb)
* connect some small hose to it, and a container to collect some fuel coming out of this hose (a jar or so)
* Turn on the ignition
* Turn on the Kill-switch: At this moment the fuelpump will start to pump for 5 seconds and stop again. The pump should plop fast (5-10x per second) because all the fuel can get away through the open hose into the container: the 5 seconds should give a 50-to-100ml of fuel.

IF the pump is NOT plopping at all or 'vibrating': check power supply to pump
IF the pump is plopping only 1x per 2 seconds (so only 2-3x in this test): clean optical detection on my kit (PCB).
IF the PCB or wires or corroded away: the pump doesn't do anything. but that only happens if it is really heavily corroded.

Pump-Rodvisible after removing the black cover part on the pump) Is being pulled-OUT bij de solenoid of the pump, about 2 - 3 mm. You cannot push it inwards, you CAN pull it outwards against the spring when you grab it in the thing slit on the rod-end. The spring should bring it back inwards. Do NOT lubricate the rod: IF you HAVE to, do it with a DRY-lube such as dry-teflon, very little grafite or chain-dry-lube.


I advise Travelers to take the old small contact breakers with them, so they CAN revert back to original (easy to do) if they are in doubt whether the kit is causing a problem. Contact breakers are very small... taking a full pump should not be needed.

IF in any doubt: please let me know what I can do for you and where you are. I can send a new kit if you think it ir broken or helps you anyway, but it usually does take some time to get it to you.

Hope this helps you, let us know when you figure it out.

Facets also die. Original pump is quite ok, but the contactbreakers inside are not (that is a real design fail). All pumps die if they get fully corroded by long term submersion into salty water...
I think there are more people driving around with my kit then with a facet pump.

Bike is an SE right? Pump up high in tank wing not below engine like Adventure 950. SM will gravity feed with full/near full tank. SE should also. Might be another problem--fuel filter plugged? Junk in carbs from bad gas?

Facet automotive might be easier to find on the road if FP needs to be replaced. Some other available automotive pump could be made to work--probably with some creative plumbing and mounting technology (?) Zip ties or such.

Facet #40171 has correct pressure and built in check valve, if you go that route.

I have an OEM takeoff and a Facet (not 40171) which I could send you if that would help.

Good luck

Sorry all. My bad about the plunger. I got it the wrong way round...you can pull it out, not push it in as I said.

Thanks for this detailed info Dr Bean. You really know this pump! I'm going to print this and carry it on the bike. One question please...why only dry lube?

Hi guys

Thanks for all the replies, we got the bike back to R2R and spent the rest of the afternoon troubleshooting.

We put another pump on from a 950 and away it went so we are on the road temporarily, we need to get to Bogota to get some bank documentation sorted.

We did all carbs and fuel line checks, all good so the pump is the problem.

Dr Bean, I don't believe the board is the issue based on your posts above, we do have a spare with us as well, just not an actual pump.

At the end it would not even pump fuel so maybe the pump has gone south.

R2R are going to look at it Monday to see what the problem is.

Again thanks to all for the help, let ya know the outcome when all is happy

renogeorge, thanks for your offer mate, if it is juiced will see if we can get one local first, if not will look to the US.

Poor fuel with ethanol has more than likely caused the diaphram to shat itself.

Yep, could be the membrane part of teh pump too: IF it starts to be leaky inside the pump will keep pumping without actually yielding fuel pressure.

but... I have never seen one doing so. Old pumps pump less, but since the pump does about 3x more than needed i have never seen this really become a problem (stupidly heavy overdesign that isn't working!)


pump-rod getting stuck though, is a known problem with corrosion.,

ps.: Why only lub with dry-lub (or preferably not at all): The slide bearing inside is a brass brearing and those are self-lubricating, made to run dry. With grease inside they collect dust and dirt and only become worse.

Aha! That explains that thanks Dr Bean. I guess the weak link in the self-lubricating plan is rust collecting on the steel plunger if it gets wet? Anyway, good to know they employed brass. Thanks.

Anyone that has owned a british car with carbs has had to deal with this failure.. :)

If bike outfits cant help look for a shop that works on old brit iron...

Dave

Brit stuff few are far between here.

If not good on electric will look at vac pump or maybe facet, unsure if you can get em here in Colombia but will search now.

Heya fellas

Ok, the only pump we could get is this, totally different to our SE pump.

It has the correct pressure and flow etc supposedly, is it off a 950 adventure??

So my burning question is, will our Dr Bean board fit back into this pump?

Will fabricate new brackets here in Cali (Colombia) and put it in tomorrow with the points in it and do the conversion down the track when we have access to the right artillery to do the job if the board fits.

Please let me know for those in the know.

Many thanks Andi

RHS is our SE pump

That's not an Adventure pump that I have seen. The OEM in my Adventure is identical to the SE.

I have no idea if the points are the same.

Left hand pump last pic looks kinda like the one off my brothers quad,,
Yamaha as I recall..

Dave

Its a Mitsi pump, haven't taken the top off to see inside, don't wonna either while it is good.

The plug is completely different too requiring a cut and solder job, that is the easy bit.

Keen to know if Dr Bean will work...maybe a trial and error look.