the DR650 thread

Very incorrect. Have a look at the description and CO trace of this graph:



The CO trace should be more or less flat with values between 3 and 5%. Instead, we have values between just over 2.5% and almost 10%.

The stock needle is less incorrect than this one.

Factory Pro has recently changed some of their needles back to aluminum material. I don't know if they have done so with the DR kit. If so, this would be a good choice. If they are still titanium, I'd probably stay away. My top choices would be one of the non-USA OEM Suzuki needles or perhaps the KTM 640 LC4 needle. Additional tuning could be done via alternate emulsion tube selection.

The chart should explain it.

Regards,

Derek

The DJ kit and drilled slide work great in my old 98

I would send back the Pro Moto Billet rack ... I actually like the stock Suzuki rack better for carrying cargo.

You have several options here. My choice was to bolt a piece of plywood onto the stock Suzuki rack. This widens the platform and allows a duffel bag or large tail pack. You can screw in loops on the under side of the plywood if you want, or hooks of some kind. With just the stock rack you pretty much have to use the side handles to strap to or the turn signal extensions. (careful the wires)

Looks like that Nelson-Rigg has snap in connectors. Your strap kit should have matching snap in connectors. Adjust length. Criss cross them to adjust length.

Does your tail bag have any loops on the underside? Or anywhere to run a bungee or strap? Most bags do.

My favorite straps are the famous Roc-Straps. These are tough and adjustable. Look them up. Much better and stronger than standard Bungee.


funky plywood on rack. Some use a plastic cutting board or similar. It works.


This TourMaster Cortech tail bag has built in bungees and hooks. Mine are worn out so I use bungees or Roc-Straps. Works well.

Do you have any dyno charts with CO traces to share?

Regards,

Derek

I do have access to plenty of phenolic, and I was actually considering that as an option. There are absolutely no hooks of any kind on the bottom of this bag. There's two up near the handle, but they're not there for strapping the bag down. Good tip on the Roc straps, they look to have the same type of connector as the ones on the bag. Maybe I'll get lucky.

I understand It may not be the best set up and next I would go most likley go with a pumper, but on my 2006 DR with DynoJet Kit runs great. I have 40,000 miles on the bike and somewere around 35,000 on the DJ with slide drilled, side cover removed, FMF and no problems yet (It may be about worn out and ready to fall apart).

On the last 10 or so fill ups y MPG have been between 47 and 50 MPG and I can easily lift the front in first gear with a twist of the throttle. and runs good from sea level to 10,000 feet.

I think it is running a little rich, plugs are on the dark side of grey. The only carb / fuel related problem I ever had was when I ran two tanks of unleaded gas (I have always used premium this is CA and we are subject to Ethanol ). About half way thru the second tank of unleaded, the bike would cut out during hard acceleration - kinda like you are running out of gas, but in a few second, acceleration would come back . When I went back to premium, the probem went away - cause and effect? I dont know, but for me and my Dr, I will stick to premium.

Naw, just runs smooth throughout the revs, no hesitations or hiccups, seat O pants dyno says 350 hp. Q4 exhaust with big header and opened air box.

Unleaded gas?
All modern gas is unleaded...

The cutting out is because you are probably running rich and has nothing to do with premium, super, or regular octane fuel.

And just FYI, premium fuel in a low compression DR engine is a waste of your money.

LOL - regular octane. Well maybe the two tankfulls of regular from Arco were contaminated, I am reluctant to try again but may I will give it a try.

Well lets see I rode 5500 miles so far this year at 48 mpg avg thats 114 gallons X 0.20 (regular premium price diffat arco) per gallon = $22.80

I see a lot of posts on here about people having carb and jetting problems and understand that tuning a carb on a DR is a bit of an enigma and no two are the same it seems

Currently my bike is stock and runs as expected, I get a bit of "hammering" at low revs and there is a definite lack of throttle response low down. All perfectly as expected for the DR. Initially I had intended to do everything pipe/TM40/airbox etc but now I'm not so sure. I quite like the quiet exhaust and I really don't want to get into trying to tune a carb on a bike that then has more power but runs like a pig. But I do want a bit more throttle response and I want to learn how this stuff works.

A couple of questions. I have a K&N filter from procycle to fit. If I put this in the STD airbox will I need to adjust the carb? If I do the airbox mod will there be any benefit and again will I have to adjust the carb? How do you tell if it's running lean or rich?

I'm thinking about a stainless headpipe to loose the restrictor ring but keeping the original muffler. Will this be any/much louder? And without a full exhaust upgrade is there any benefit to a TM40 and how hard is it to get these to run well?

Sorry, there's about a dozen questions there, I'll try and read up on carb tuning in the meantime. Any help or suggestions appreciated.

I agree in principle; however, in some places non-ethanol fuel is only available in premium unleaded and my bike always runs better with non-ethanol. I thought I had a fouled carb and ran a couple tanks of non-ethanol and it started running right. Anytime I start with a fresh tank of non-ethanol, it's a night and day difference.

It's a Catch 22 I guess because I think it's supposed to run on 87-octane, non-ethanol, but it's just unavailable anywhere near me. So, premium is a waste, but then again, it isn't.

I was able to get non ethanol fuel in VA. I think my bike ran better also. No facts to back it up, but in my head it was better.

The Pro Cycle Jet Kit and drilled slide also worked great on my 2009.

Still working fine on my '96 too.

A few weeks ago on my trip out west, my bike (GPZ) was idling around 500-600 rpm and felt very sluggish in the lower revs. Once I noticed there was a choice in non ethanol fuel at the pump (Iowa) I filled up with that. Bike cleared right up, idle was back to 1100 rpm. I wish we had the choice of non ethanol fuel around here but we dont.

I took an old case that I think was the toolbox some power tools came in, drilled four holes in it, and bolted them to the rack. It cost me about $0.25 in bolts/washers/nuts and a few minutes dumpster diving. I had considered a soft bag for the tail, but the stock rock just struck me as too narrow, and these kinds of cases are all over the place here. Not entirely waterproof, but I'd call it "rain resistant."

I did something similar in the past. One suggestion: turn the bolts over. That way they aren't protruding into the case.
One more thought: when I did it I bought some pieces of flat steel at the local hardware store and bolted through them. Kind of like a long washer to spread out the stress on the plastic box.

I did something similar too, with a plastic tool box. I made it waterproof by laying a thin bead of silicone in the grove around the lid, covering the lip on the lower box, which fits into the grove, with plastic wrap so the silicone wouldn't stick to it, and lightly closed it to dry. Worked great.
Ditto on flipping the bolts and using large washers or flat steel to spread the load on the plastic bottom.

Do you have any dyno charts with CO traces to share?

Regards,

Derek