Got the bike back, it was the issue with the pin on the shaft assy (part T1191194, this one: http://www.triumphmcparts.com/products/Shaft-Assy--Pivot--Gearchange/9964168/T1191194.html ). Only took them two and a half weeks.. I may be imagining things but it feels like it shifts smoother now.
I took my skidplate off tonight for an oil change and I have 2 broken mounts. I am reluctant to use plain superglue. What else is a good option? What about vulcanizing glue from my patch kit? I'll be going to my local Triumph dealer on Tuesday for replacements. I have heard about long waits for these parts. Any advice? JG
On closer inspection, these are threaded into, not through the sump pan. Whew. I have one in the front which is unused on my AdvSpec skid plate. I can relocate that to the rear to evenly distribute the weight of the skid plate. If the dealer does not have the parts, I will look at the auto parts store for a suitable replacement. Seem like something a radiator might mount to in a car. I will be shopping for a couple of threaded bolt to place in my toolkit, just in case any of these shear off and I need to bolt the skid plate back on in an emergency. Will keep you posted. JG
Plenty of choice this side of the pond:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anti-Vibr...d=100011&prg=1005&rk=1&rkt=5&sd=161128993897& http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PZ290-4pc...sGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item19da515761
Went through that a few weeks ago. Get new ones from the dealer or order from Bike Bandit. http://www.bikebandit.com/search?q=3066616 BB will take 2 weeks from order to have it on your doorstep in my experience, they just order from Triumph anyway, but their parts fiches are convenient, The new mounts are are slightly different and look like a better design. Triumph changed the part number.
I've re-glued mine twice with Super Glue Gel. The second repair was no fault of the glue. I had to use a large C clamp to compress the front mount to move it forward close to 2". SG Gel is a valid repair. I used a pair of regular pliers to get the screw/plate out of the case, it's not in there very tight. (Don't put it back on to tight either) Cleaned both surfaces with paint thinner Glue one surface and clamp with quick clamps for about 10 minutes. You should be good to go. Be sure to check the bottom front bracket bolt, mine went missing. Dry fit the plate to confirm the front bracket is up against or at least within an 1/8" so it doesn't tweek the rubber mounts.
Got mine on ebay - not triumph, for I think €3.50 for 4. Just had to cut the studs to length. Search ebay for 20mm RC engine mounts.
I had some laying around the house. Cleaned off the rubber with some acetone. Put it back together. It's drying on the kitchen counter now. I will put some M8 Stainless bolts in my tool kit as a just-in-case repair. JG
I just got back from a trip to the East side of the Sierra. Nice mix of dirt and street. After going over my bike I did find that all of the coolant clamps were loose. None were leaking tho. Also, to anyone who has installed shorty adjustable levers from Ebay, check your lever bolts. Mine were loose on both sides. I noticed a lot of up/down play in the lever. I removed the bottom nut and applied blue Locktite and reinstalled. Much better. You don't want to lose those... Happy Thanksgiving all. JG
Yeah that's the first thing I did when I got my roadie home new....I had one hose that would leak a little so I tightened them all and no issues since. We did our annual Turkey Day ride this morning....only about 60 miles but it was a balmy 25 degrees! Fun none the less and I LOVE this damn bike
Goods all. I always do checks on levels and tires n such but can't seem to remember to check bolts. I'll get on that tomorrow! Happy turkey day! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
EDIT: Just wanted everyone to know Triumph and the dealer, Motorcycles of Charlotte, completely came though for me on the problem below. Got a call today and was told all bearings and spacers PLUS the swing arm are being replaced. All I can say is wow, what customer service on both sides. Spun bearing, not my fault, not Triumphs fault, just a bad part and I got it through the luck, or bad luck, of the draw and Triumph is replacing it. I would buy a Triumph any day of the week. Awesome customer service! I thought it was a spun bearing at first, but it looks like I spun the whole rear assembly. Only thing noticeable is the internal spacer won't move. I noticed it because I adjusted my chain and put 110 N m on the axle nut when done and the wheel wouldn't turn. :huh All torqued up, put your hand on top of the tire and you can roll the wheel back and forth about 5 or 6 inches and then it stops both ways. Back off on the nut quite a bit and the tire moves freely, but the axle nut is just barely tight. Anybody have any ideas? I may ride it down to Triumph today and see what they'll do, I don't want to be without a bike for 3 weeks waiting for parts. Rear wheel diagram here. http://www.bikebandit.com/2012-triumph-tiger-800xc/o/m154268#sch740813 Part 19, brake side spacer. Pot metal crap. Parts 18 and 16. 16 is steel, 18 looks to be aluminum. Other side, but order is 16 then 18. All bearings seem to turn normally, but part number 3, internal spacer under the bearing in the pic, I can't spin with my finger. Looks like I'm going to put Triumph, and my dealer to the test. I want the swing arm replaced too. Bummer....
Did you lube it yourself recently...? Could the bearings have locked up due to a lack of lube..? Don't know what else it could be... Let us know what the dealer said!
Wow...something going on with that hub. Guess it makes sense to disassemble the rear hub occassionally. Wheel bearings can create all kinds of issues when moisture gets in and corrosion starts. Are you sure you got everything put back in right? I know I've had my back wheel off a number of times and it spins freely with the axle cinched up. But I only tighten enough to be able to get the nut off easily in the field with a short wrench and a push with my foot. I've never torqued to a spec.
XCRider803, you say you cannot spin spacer between bearings but can spin bearings? E.g. spacer somehow locked up (never seen before). E.g. you need to take out bearings, check what's up and fix, get new bearings from any bearing shop (they are industrial standard size) and put it all together. If groove in swingarm as shallow as it looks from the picture I would not worry about it. If it is deep you can resurface that part of swingarm and keep it.
Sounds like the inner spacer has been smashed and is too narrow. Now tightened there is too much side pressure on the bearings making them too tight.
The inner spacer, inner races and external spacers should not move when the wheel is turning. The axle should be tight enough to make these act as a single stressed part spanning the gap between each side of the swingarm that the hub rotates around. Clearly in this case the moving parts (outer bearing races and hub) were able to move the outer spacer in a way that allowed it to spin, gouging the swingarm. Look for evidence of metal to metal contact between the outer spacers and the moving parts. If the bearings spin freely they may be fine. If the spacers only contact the inner race and the seal, they are probably okay too, other than being milled a little. Something ain't right here and the fact that the inner spacer doesn't move is the best clue. A bind between it and the hub would put rotating forces on that stressed assembly. Remove the bearings and drive out the inner spacer and see what it is binding to. If you have ridden in water or mud axle deep it may have migrated into the space between the inner spacer and hub, corroded (bi-metallic), or even filled it with sand so that it froze to the hub. Could be all that is needed is to clean it up and put copious amounts of grease between it and where it bound to the hub to prevent this happening again. You are on the right path and have done a great job isolating where to look. Let us know how it turns out.