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Old 06-26-2006, 04:39 PM   #1516
nobrakes
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Location: North Carolina
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Yes, that sounds right, backwoods. However, I wouldn't do those mods until you re-jet the carb to run a little richer. The stock bike is running pretty lean and with restricted air intake already to meet EPA restrictions everywhere. When you open up the exhaust and the airbox but don't rejet, you will be running leaner still which can damage your head in extreme cases.

Here's the stuff you need from Kawasaki (or an online parts source
like BikeBandit.com):

1) N1TC needle (pre-'05 KLX300 49-state needle which is Kawi part
number 16009-1912)

2) Needle clip (92037-1401). Put this in slot 2 down from the top of
the needle

3) Needle collar (92143-1667) - Goes on top of the clip

4) #125 Main Jet (92063-1069)

5) Airbox snorkel (14073-1577) high flow unit

Look back through this thread for photos and other instructions such as uncapping the pilot screw and turning it out 2.5 turns, drilling the slide vent hold to 7/64th's, etc.

I recommend you do all these at the same time. It makes a world of difference for this bike. Whatever you do, I'd definitely be careful about doing anything that will make the bike run leaner such as installing the high flow snorkel without doing the above carburetor adjustments, though.
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:25 PM   #1517
Alleycat
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300cc

I finally heard from Muzzy, it was sent out on Friday after two weeks of waiting( back order ). So this week . I was just reading Brians write up on the 300cc kit that sounds like a really big power increase congradulations on the new bike. I also travel in sixth gear alot, is there a site I could look more into this upgrade ? or if you dont mind.. how much the kit is worth.

Matt
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:43 PM   #1518
nobrakes
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Thanks, Alleycat. The kit was around $470 buying the parts from Ron Ayers. You might have luck with e-bay and save some money - dealers in Australia seem to be sweetening the deal on the new KLX250S by including the 300 kit with the sale, so there are bound to be several that show up on e-bay. I've seen a few there, but as luck would have it I was always a bit too late to bid. If you buy the parts individually, you need the following:

From Ron Ayers: http://www.ronayers.com/

1 x 11005-1983 - CYLINDER-ENGINE Price: $309.93
1 x 13002-1109 - PIN-PISTON Price: $9.63
1 x 13008-1071 - RING-SET-PISTON,STD Price: $36.66
2 x 92033-1054 - RING-SNAP Price: $0.84
1 x 11004-1314 - GASKET-HEAD Price: $37.31
1 x 11060-1740 - GASKET,CYLINDER BASE Price: $5.16
1 x 13001-1463 - PISTON-ENGINE Price: $62.64

Total: $463.03

I had my parts within a few days, but they are pretty close by where I live.

Your best reference is the service manual. Definitely don't attempt this without the service manual as it has all the torque specs for those ever important bolts like those of the cylinder head, cam bracket, etc, etc. I did post some more photos over here, though, if you are interested:

http://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_49288/tm.htm

-Brian
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:49 PM   #1519
Crilly
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My tires have developed green line on them. (1500 miles). Do they mean anything?
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:11 PM   #1520
backwoods
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Thanks nobrakes. I appreciate the replies and info supplied. I'm looking at doing the re jet#125, baffle drill out, snorkel kit, and needle, needle clip & needle collar. How much of a noticable diffrence?

Do I also need to drill out the air box if I buy the snorkel kit? I'm pretty green with this stuff and it will be done by an after hours cowie mechanic.

backwoods
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:11 PM   #1521
Nobiman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobrakes
Yes, that sounds right, backwoods. However, I wouldn't do those mods until you re-jet the carb to run a little richer. The stock bike is running pretty lean and with restricted air intake already to meet EPA restrictions everywhere. When you open up the exhaust and the airbox but don't rejet, you will be running leaner still which can damage your head in extreme cases.

Here's the stuff you need from Kawasaki (or an online parts source
like BikeBandit.com):

1) N1TC needle (pre-'05 KLX300 49-state needle which is Kawi part
number 16009-1912)

2) Needle clip (92037-1401). Put this in slot 2 down from the top of
the needle

3) Needle collar (92143-1667) - Goes on top of the clip

4) #125 Main Jet (92063-1069)

5) Airbox snorkel (14073-1577) high flow unit

Look back through this thread for photos and other instructions such as uncapping the pilot screw and turning it out 2.5 turns, drilling the slide vent hold to 7/64th's, etc.

I recommend you do all these at the same time. It makes a world of difference for this bike. Whatever you do, I'd definitely be careful about doing anything that will make the bike run leaner such as installing the high flow snorkel without doing the above carburetor adjustments, though.
Thats good advice Backwoods, I'd go with it.

Get all of the parts gathered first, then do the jetting, air box snorkle, de-smog and exhaust all at the same time. FWIW, I had an extra long 1/2" x 12" drill bit and drilled about 8" into the stock silencer while we were waiting for the Muzzy to arrive. It made very very little difference in sound or performance IMO. That stock silencer really needs to go as soon as you can afford it, Then all of your other mods will be used to thier full potential when the motor can get rid of all the exhaust gases it makes without straining at the very restrictive silencer. Until then, have a blast on your new bike dude!

Randy.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:26 PM   #1522
Nobiman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backwoods
Thanks nobrakes. I appreciate the replies and info supplied. I'm looking at doing the re jet#125, baffle drill out, snorkel kit, and needle, needle clip & needle collar. How much of a noticable diffrence?

Do I also need to drill out the air box if I buy the snorkel kit? I'm pretty green with this stuff and it will be done by an after hours cowie mechanic.

backwoods
Hey Backwoods, all of these mods can be done in your garage with simple hand tools. Take the time to do some searchs 'cause we've all tried to document these mods with pictures so everyone ekse can "see" whats being done.

The air box drill mod really has very little to do with the snorkle mod. The snorkle mod increases the influx of air into the motor, which is why you also need to rejet too, more air means more fuel or you will create the lean condition that NoBrakes described above.

The airbox drill mod increases the size of the hole for the engine vent line, which allows the engine to keep from building as much pressure inside, which in turn usually allows for a more responsive engine. Any one of these mods will make little difference but all of them together will make a very noticable difference in performance. So get all 'yer ducks in order and jump into that baby! YOU CAN DO IT!

Randy.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:29 PM   #1523
Nobiman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crilly
My tires have developed green line on them. (1500 miles). Do they mean anything?
Can ya post a picture of this condition? I have not heard this one before!

Randy.
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Old 06-26-2006, 09:25 PM   #1524
nobrakes
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Backwoods - listen to Nobiman, that's it exactly, he hit the nail right smack on the head!
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Old 06-26-2006, 11:06 PM   #1525
MaverickAus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobrakes
Thanks, Alleycat. The kit was around $470 buying the parts from Ron Ayers. You might have luck with e-bay and save some money - dealers in Australia seem to be sweetening the deal on the new KLX250S by including the 300 kit with the sale, so there are bound to be several that show up on e-bay. I've seen a few there, but as luck would have it I was always a bit too late to bid. If you buy the parts individually, you need the following:
Just to add to what Brian said, watch ebay australia ( www.ebay.com.au ) for the kits and the dealers no longer supply them with the bikes. Also I don't think Kawasaki Aus is selling the kits anymore.

cheers

Garry

P.S. my kit is not for sale so don't ask :-P
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Old 06-26-2006, 11:13 PM   #1526
nobrakes
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I can vouch for Mav on that - I already tried to buy his and he would have none of that nonsense.
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Old 06-27-2006, 05:52 AM   #1527
backwoods
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Great stuff guys. I guess I'll see about an exhaust system first but I didn't want something real loud. I found a complete system by Big Gun made specifically for the "new" KLX250s. Has anyone put this one on thier bike and how does it work.

backwoods

backwoods screwed with this post 06-27-2006 at 10:53 AM
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:06 AM   #1528
nobrakes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backwoods
Great stuff guys. I guess I'll see about an exhaust system first but I didn't want something real loud. I found a complete system by Big Gun made specifically for the "new" KLX250s. Has anyone put this one on thier bike and how does it work.

backwoods
If you're concerned about that, just do the 1/2" drill mod in the stock pipe for now in addition to the usually airbox and carburetor mods. I ran my bike for a while like that before getting the Muzzy and while I think I saw a slight improvement when I installed the Muzzy, I got most of the improvements from the carburetor and airbox mods. That was until I installed the 300cc cylinder and piston, at least.

Another option is to get a stock KLX300 pipe - you can find these economically from folks that have them lying around after replacing theirs with aftermarket brands. The KLX300 exhaust is an improvement in both performance and sound over the stock KLX250S pipe. And once you have a KLX300 head-pipe, that opens the door to the aftermarket pipe slip-on options which are generally cheaper than the full systems.
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:11 PM   #1529
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Da BIG Gun

I have the big gun on my bike. I had the 13 tooth sprocket, big gun, KLX Filter & re jet done at my dealer all at the same time. My wife's Klx is stock and jumping from one to another is a shock. MINE is just way faster.

I have my silencer out of my "BIG gun " right now and it is LOUD. Much More quiet with it in but a bit less power. I tend to wear ear plugs to keep down the wind noise when i ride anyway.

Randy
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Old 06-27-2006, 09:28 PM   #1530
backwoods
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Mods

O.K, here's what I want to do.
I want to obtain a KLX300 header pipe and keep the stock cannister with the first baffle drilled out. I'm not concerned with weight.
I want to install a high flow snorkel(92-99 KDX200).
I want to install a #125 main jet.
I want to remove the needle and put it on the 2nd slot.

Do I need to order the dyno jet kit?

Can anyone confirm that this would make a noticable diffrence and will it work. I know I'm missing a few of the mods but this is what I want if it will work. If I had to order the exhaust system I would want the staintune.

Thanks again, all replies welcome.
backwoods
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