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Old 01-29-2006, 05:00 PM   #271
bmwhd OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobiman
Hey Todd, have you tried running 'yer girl with her top off yet like Work750 suggests? I have finally finished my KTM and am gearing up for these KLX mods. I'll be ordering a large assortment of jets from Sudco today or tommorow just as soon as I figure out which jet the KLX uses. I think they are the small round Mikuni's but not sure yet. I'll probably pull the carb bowl off to check and then make my order. I'm waiting for one of you guys to order a full exhaust for these bikes to make sure the KLX 300 stuff works on our bikes, That way I dont have to be the guinea pig on this deal. I'm not sure how much longer I'm gonna be able to wait though, so hurry it up there pardners!

Randy.
I tried running with the airbox lid off completely, just the snorkle removed, and with the high flow KDX snorkle. I'm sticking with the latter as performance is great with the high flow and noise and water intrusion are minimized vs. having the lid off completely.
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:20 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cman
well after reading 18 pages I'm convinced this is the bike for me. One question, will the bike wheelie over obstacles that will be found while trail riding?? 1st gear/, 2nd gear/ wheelies? Do you have to pull hard on the bars to wheelie? Thanks for all your great post, and helping me make up my mind. cman
with cheap mods .. yes, read todds mods
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:26 PM   #273
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Originally Posted by GuinnesS
Well my search is over, I am not going to find a more perfect compromise. This is the bike to fit my needs. The hop-ups that Work 750 and the rest of you nutters proposing are just the iceing on the cake. Since my little test ride the other day I have realised that this bike would be the most sensible decision I have made regarding a bike purchase in years. I set out looking at euroexotics, blinded by a novel attribute; a street legal TE Husky racing bike. But as I was promptly reminded, these (TE's) are pretty much useless as DS bikes. So with sober eyes I now see that this KLX is a most unique offering.

Well it didn't take me long to go exercise my new found wisdom. I called two local dealers and promtly brought home a little GREEN thing. I was so excited stuffing the bike into my Vanagon I ended up snapping off the left mirror. I then proceeded to hurry home leaving the manual and keys at dealership
Sorry man I just had to laugh about you putting the bike in the van, welcome and congrats to your new ownership of the mighty GREEN Kwaka
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:09 PM   #274
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So this very next day of ownership, I through the kids&wife bikes in the van and followed them up to the north shore of Oahu (Kahuku). It was a 45 mile run up and have to say the stock seat is better than the one on my LC8, its not saying much but its still saying something. Had a bit of trouble keeping it at 4000, more like 4500-5000, but this thing works!
I then left the family to fend for themselves and went single tracking for 2-3 hours with two buddies w/ YZF250 and a RMZ450. My odometer showed 18 miles of trails and its was muddy as snot in most places. I didn't bother changing air pressure and managed to keep up just fine w/ the other lads-I was riding about 7/10 they were probably 5-6/10 but still, the supension setup(bone stock) was very impressive. We did high speed birms, big muddy roots, rode some deep ruts, some good climbs and the 1-2 foot jumps. This little marvel did it all, huge confident handling.
Bike is a right mess but this new outfit suits her nicely, I will have to post a photo before I wash her tomorrow.
Oh yeah, then I had to ride back 55 miles the long way round (less highway) So a total of 118+ miles, 5+ hours in the saddle and not a complaint about comfort yet!
Yes I love this bike and am looking forward to putting a little more juice in her. So come on you guys and get started on your mods and let us know what's magic
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:19 PM   #275
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Eek Modding the KLX250 aussie style

Hi,

First off, keep in mind non Australian bikes may be different (although I doubt it). Plus all info is given as I did it. If your jetting specs are different to mine. Well ok. I live/ride near the sea in a dry warm climate. Jetting is a very personal thing.

1.If you are hotting up the KLX250, it is a differnt beast to the KLX300 re performance. The KLX300 was always easier to get more power out of. I think it has to do with the bore stroke ratio or the fact that the KLX300 has the correct head and that the KLX250 shares the same head and it is not optimised for the 40cc difference. Anyway, you will struggle to get the 250 to really perform as opposed to the 300. Easy fix though is just bung on the 300 barrel and piston/gudgeon/clips etc.

However if you want the 250 to go and don't want to spend too much money. Raise the needle with washers 1 to 1.5mm. (The needle that they mention on the planet KLX site (out of an older KLX300 and KLX650) is good for the KLX300, but I found it to not be as good as the stock needle just raised a bit, I always found it to be real hard to get the jetting right all across the rev range, whereas the stock needle raised is just about perfect and so easy to jet.) .Put in a #150 main and a #42 Pilot. Lose the lid off the air box. Wind out mixture screw to 2 or 2 1/2 turns. Bike will now run really well and should be very close to correct jetting. If you are keeping it a 250cc. Leave the stock header and buy a Staintune muffler. The guys at Staintune litterally spent weeks on the dyno gettting their muffler and exhaust right for the Kawasaki Race team in Australia. If you are going to go to the 300cc option, buy the Staintune oversize header pipe as well. This is good for a couple of HP on it's own, but as said, it is not required on the 250cc engine. These mods alone will yield enough power to actually pull the standard gearing well.

If you want you can cut off a few coils of the return spring of the carby diaphram spring. This will yield more throttle response (easy to wheelie over logs). Caution here, as too many coils cut off will make the engine slow to return to idle speed and also hold on a little throttle at the most inopertune moment. (note this is great for increasing cornering speed :) ) but not so good on the trail.

You will see that many people complain about the shifting of the KLX300. Well this was fixed very quietly by Kawasaki in about 2000, and it was never a problem on the 250cc. Don't bother to buy the modded shift star they always talk about. It is stock on all KLX250 and 300 since about 2000.

A 47 rear sprocket gives a good spread of speed versus accelaeration. If you gear it too low, you will find that you rev the guts out of it to no effect. The stock cams fall on their face about 8500RPM. While the stock bikes feels it goes harder at higher revs, once you get it breathing properely you will quickly find the limit to the cams. Better to gear it a bit taller and ride the torque. When we were setting up a bike for racing here in Australia, one of our guys lived on the rev limiter all day, and always complained of low power. We dropepd the gearing back to 14/47 from 13/51 and his lap times dropped significantly.

Unless you are very serious or like to spend cash. Don't bother with Race Tech Gold valves. Just have the standard forks setup for you. You may need to go for a stiffer spring. I did, but i am a fat pumba anyway. The standard fork oil is umm well umm ...basically sh*t. Drop it when you get the bike and replace it with something good at recommended setting to begin with. Then work your way from there. (Go to the Ohlins america website for great downloadable manuals on how to set up your suspension.) If you like tight turning without front end washouts, raise the forks in the legs 5-7mm. Makes a huge differnce.

On the rear you have a few options. If you have long legs, the cheapest option is to replace the dog bones which are 119mm long with 117mm long ones. While it is only 2mm. It will raise the seat about a good 30mm. But more importantly it changes the leverage angle of the shockabsorber, which in effect makes the stock spring about right for the majority of larger riders when setting static sag. Unfortunately the stock oil in the shock isn't too good and you can realise a hugh benifit form just having the shock serviced. If you do get the shock serviced you can have a smaller internal bump stop fitted which will result in about another 25-30mm of wheel travel. But again once you have the static sag right, the shoch isn't too bad for trail riding. The shorter dog bones are an easy cheap fit and fix. You can't fit the ones off of a KLX300 as they have different mounting hole diameters. Used to be able to, but they were changed a few models ago (can't remember when exactly.)

I'll do a few more posts to get them shorter.
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:29 PM   #276
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the 14ltr acerbis tank

Hi guys,

I fitted the Acerbis KLX300 tank to my 2005 KLX250. I think that there are no changes to the frame for 2006. But is there anyone who can confirm this from an australian Kawasaki dealer. I am not longer in the loop here. However I can ask my local dealer to check for me and post at a later date. However if they are the same frame as the 05 model, the acerbis KLX300 14ltr tank will bolt straight on. Make sure you get the mounting kit as it comes with two braces to keep the tank ears off of the radiators. The tank actually gives you 12ltr usable as you ride and then you have to start to lie it on its side and get the fuel to run over from one ear to the other, hmmm sounds like a song. Very frustrating. However given the options available...thanks acerbis for still making them. A normal road range of 250Km is available from this tank, although as usual wind, hills or dirt roads will all impact on this range. But on the trips I did away, 250Km was usually no problems.
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:45 PM   #277
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klx250 to 300cc

Hi all,

A real easy upgrade is to fit the KLX300 barrell/piston/gudgeon/clips. It will significantly up the power from a measly 18HP rear wheel to about 25-27Hp dependant on other mods. But most of all is that it will really increase the torque. Now this is the tricky bit. With all the other mods I recommended in an earlier post (airbox lid etc) I would actually drop in a #142 main and a #42 pilot. Bear in mind I am at sea level in a dry warm climate. Yes I know it is a smaller jet than the 250cc. Don't know why. Some think it may be to do with intake air velociity over the main jet. Don't know. Don't care. You may even find you need to go down to a #138 main. The pilot stays the same though.

NOW MOST IMPORTANTLY!!!!!!!

The stock KLX250 carb, when fitted to a 300cc engine works unreal. It must have to do with the vacum drillings in the carby either on the slide or in the carby body. But I can tell you that a stock KLX250 carby on a 300cc engine, feels like a pumper carb. YES it is a big call, and no you won't get the same power. But you will get awfull close and it will ride fantastically. When I first suggested this to my work mates, they all laughed, but once they rode it they couldn't believe it either. I tried a stock KLX300 carb on my modded KLX250 with a 300 barrel, and it was typical vacum carb, no response, slow reation. Put the stock KLX250 carb back on and it went like a rocket and had great ( yes great ) throttle response. Iwould only lash out on a FCR35 as a last resort for more power. You will only get a few extra horses and really no better response. PLus the FCR drinks fuel if not perfectly setup.

If you go to the 300cc barrel, go the Staintune big bore header and muffler combo. Well worth it.
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Old 01-29-2006, 11:40 PM   #278
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KLX250 to 300cc silly season

My last KLX250,

received help from the guy who built the Kawasaki Race team bikes in Australia. It all got a little silly, but fun non the less. Read at your perril.

!. Fitted stock KLX300 barrel
2. Kevin Doyle high comp custom ground piston approx 12.7:1 comp
3. custom ground kevin doyle cams still pulling at 13000RPM nasty
4. Stock ignition opened up to 11750RPM (limited the top HP on my bike)
5. tuff rided (special heat treatment) inlet and exhaust valves
6. D.I.D timing chain ( only need if your going to rev the bejezzus out of it all the time :)
7. K&N air filter
8. Staintune oversize header and muffler (very loud with cams eh)
9. heavy duty barnett clutch springs
10. revalved resprung forks
11. revalved/stroked rear shock
12. shorter 117mm dog bones
13. FCR35 Keihin, but back to stock KLX250 carby for convenience


I ran this bike in and then took it to the dyno shop. It looked stock and the owner laughed when I told him I thought I would get in excess of 30Hp at the wheel. He even went so far as to show me his hp graphs for stock WR250 Yamaha's. Which on his dyno produced 28Hp at the wheel and 24Nm. The first run on my bike pruduced 34 HP from 8500rpm and 27Nm from about 6500RPM. He fell off his chair and I laughed till I cried. He wouldn't believe it (he thought it was a stock bike with a staintune pipe) so he rebooted the computer on the dyno and we re ran it. Same result and it was funny as it was bouncing off the new 11500 redline at about 170Kph. At this point I had to tell him what I had done. Bear in mind this is with the stock KLX250 carby.

I then fitted up the FCR35 Keihin and we ran it again. I struggled to get the jetting right and it was costing a fortune. But with it running rich all the way through the rev range we got 36Hp and a flat 30Nm. Trouble was it was a pig to ride as I couldn't get the carby right. After about ten million scabbed knuckles, swear words and loss of most of my hair. I went back to the stock carby and sacrificed the few extra hp. The reality is that I'm not fast enought to use it anyway. The civility of the stock carb is like a siren to a sailor. Irresisable.

Kevin ran programable ignitions on the Kawasaki Race bikes and they would not flat line like my bike did from 8500 onwards. However the costs for the programable ECU with the required flywheel mods (loss of electric starter) were too high for me in both $$ and convenience. His bike regularly reved to 13000RPM and they were getting about 40Hp from the 250cc version. YEAH BABY. My bike hit 8500RPM and then held almost the same HP till the rev limiter. The Nm dropped away as the revs increased.

I then got a bit silly :) and had the frame modded so that I could fit a carby off of a KX250F (Keihin FCR37). The thing looked horn, as the carby was HUGE. However I think it may have been just too big as I could not get it to really pull like the FCR35 or the stock carby. IN the end it was a pointless mod. Fun in hindsite, but a real pain inthe ass when doing it.

Lastely and I guess most importantly. MY bikes were really well looked after. Droped the oil after ever race/enduro/fun day trail riding. Fully synthetic Mutol oil. But they were ridden hard. Not just by me, but by allot of people as the bike got regular use as a demo bike. I did a couple of trips away on it. Twice I did inexcess of 1200KM in one day and the poor little thing was sitting on upwards of 8000RPM for most of it. The Oil actually went off at about 1500Km on a trip away and it would start to use oil. But if I changed it, it wouldn't use any till about 1500Km again. So I figured about 1500Km of sustained high revs is about all the oil would take. While doing this to the bike it would still give me 22Kpl to 25Kpl. These bikes are the sweetest thing about. I wish I had never sold my last one. But I wanted to do more touring and I thought the long KM at high revs would eventually kill it.

Any questions...I am happy to answer. I have probably forgotton a few things if Iremeber, I will post.
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Old 01-30-2006, 01:18 AM   #279
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Thank you so much for that!
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Old 01-30-2006, 03:48 AM   #280
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Wow thank you for taking the time and effort to do all that work750 (typing and posting), any idea where I can get a good second hand Staintune? lol. I don’t know if I can resist the temptation to fit my 300cc barrel etc

Quote:
Originally Posted by GuinnesS
Yes I love this bike and am looking forward to putting a little more juice in her. So come on you guys and get started on your mods and let us know what's magic
Glad to hear GuinnesS
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Old 01-30-2006, 04:56 AM   #281
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Work750 -- great writeup! I haven't found any posts anywhere, of anyone putting the 300 cylinder, piston, etc. on the USA 06 KLX250 -- it would be a shame to spend all that money for the 300 parts, and an aftermarket exhaust, only to find out the stuff doesn't fit for some reason, on the USA bikes.
If I knew for sure it would all fit, I would be already ordering my parts -- I'm thinking maybe this:
-300 cylinder, piston, rings, etc.
-Big Gun Evo X full exhaust (Staintune hard to find in USA?)
-remove airbox snorkel, or use the bigger one
-use KLX300 dynojet kit?
-K&N air filter (for KLX300?)
Based on these informative posts, it seems this would give a nice boost in overall power, without having to rev it to the moon (I don't want to do rev mods like ignition and cams) and make the bike even more fun than it already is.
Anybody see anything wrong on this list?
Has anybody done the 300 mod to the new USA KLX250?
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Old 01-30-2006, 06:15 AM   #282
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That was one "HELL" of write up Mr. Work750!!!!!!!!!!!


I will read those posts many times to try and soak it all in, and to see what parts of your info that I can apply to my situation.


Everybody keep the info coming in as you get it. Hopefully I will have some to add here in the near future. If I did all of the Work750 mods to the wifes KLX 250, she might be able to out run me on my KTM 640!

Randy.
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Old 01-30-2006, 07:05 AM   #283
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Thanks for the great information everyone (especially Work750!).

We'll soon have these little buggers figured out here in the States too.

I have to say (being a complete novice on carb matters) that I'm a bit surprised at the jet recommendations. With all the mods I've done, the 125 seems to be spot on (of course, no dyno runs to prove it). I think anything larger would be too rich with just the open air box and drilled OEM exhaust (US version). Perhaps once I fit the aftermarket exhaust, a bigger main will be required.

I'm also surprised by the comments on the N1TC needle vs. shimming the stocker as they appear to be of identical length and taper differing only in the ability to be adjusted (or not). Again, I bow to superior knowledge.

BTW, compman, Staintune can be had here in the US but they're not cheap. I'm thinking Muzzy or Big Gun for mine (after I sort the tank issue).
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Old 01-30-2006, 07:55 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhd
BTW, compman, Staintune can be had here in the US but they're not cheap. I'm thinking Muzzy or Big Gun for mine (after I sort the tank issue).
Actually, I like the looks of the new Big Gun EVO X full system -- spark arrestor, and quiet insert is standard on them, and removeable if somebody (not me anymore) wants to race with it.
I've read that the Staintune is sorta loud.
The Big Gun site lists the system for 94-06 KLX250/300 for $479.95:
http://www.biggunexhaust.com/index.php?cPath=13_77_79

and
http://www.biggunexhaust.com/product...roducts_id=490

So, presumably, it will fit.
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Old 01-30-2006, 10:08 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhd
Thanks for the great information everyone (especially Work750!).

We'll soon have these little buggers figured out here in the States too.

I have to say (being a complete novice on carb matters) that I'm a bit surprised at the jet recommendations. With all the mods I've done, the 125 seems to be spot on (of course, no dyno runs to prove it). I think anything larger would be too rich with just the open air box and drilled OEM exhaust (US version). Perhaps once I fit the aftermarket exhaust, a bigger main will be required.

I'm also surprised by the comments on the N1TC needle vs. shimming the stocker as they appear to be of identical length and taper differing only in the ability to be adjusted (or not). Again, I bow to superior knowledge.

BTW, compman, Staintune can be had here in the US but they're not cheap. I'm thinking Muzzy or Big Gun for mine (after I sort the tank issue).
Todd, as well as we have our bikes running, do you really want to change the exhaust?
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