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Old 01-12-2012, 05:46 AM   #6181
linkin5
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If you get the Dynojet kit that comes with the spring you don't need to drill or even mess with the slide as that is what the different tension spring is for. The kit had good instructions and well as jetting suggestions that I found near spot on.
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:23 AM   #6182
Landon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgmeister View Post
ceven with the stock carby ( i run 50 pilot 152 main)
hows that for burning fuel!!
When you say a 50 and 152, is that Keihin or DJ?

I had a 40 pilot and 125 main (Keihins) with the N1TC on the second from top postion and the bike ran extremely rich, but it burned fuel. I went back to the 35 pilot and stock needle with #4 shim. Gotta go for a ride soon and see how it runs.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:14 AM   #6183
IDRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landon View Post
When you say a 50 and 152, is that Keihin or DJ?

I had a 40 pilot and 125 main (Keihins) with the N1TC on the second from top postion and the bike ran extremely rich, but it burned fuel. I went back to the 35 pilot and stock needle with #4 shim. Gotta go for a ride soon and see how it runs.
A couple picks of what rich burning may be doing to your engine. I don't KNOW this carbon is from rich, but rich does build carbon and may contaminate oil.



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Old 01-12-2012, 07:17 AM   #6184
Landon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
A couple picks of what rich burning may be doing to your engine. I don't KNOW this carbon is from rich, but rich does build carbon and may contaminate oil.
As you know, I am fixing mine so it does not run really rich
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:45 AM   #6185
page62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkin5 View Post
If you get the Dynojet kit that comes with the spring you don't need to drill or even mess with the slide as that is what the different tension spring is for. The kit had good instructions and well as jetting suggestions that I found near spot on.
+1. Follow the dynojet instructions and it's basically a plug & play procedure. Great performance boost (with an aftermarket exhaust and snorkel removed).

The only thing I did differently is drilling out idle screw plug BEFORE pulling the float bowl. This keeps any metal shavings out of the carb!
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:29 PM   #6186
redpillar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
My clutch has started slipping and I just found out that a friend from Florida will be coming over for a "drop in visit" leaving in days. He's flying out of Miami.

Anyone know in that area which dealers are most likely to stock KLX parts? I'm going to start calling the dealers in the area and see if anyone has the EBC heavy duty clutch but any tips would be great.
Also anyone have a part # for the heavy duty clutch? Is EBC the only one? Is their 300 the same?

Thanks!

rick
You should ask or search over on the kawasaki forum for this sort of thing as the knowledge base is pretty deep there.
EBC dirt racer clutch plates and Barnett springs seem to be the hot set up.
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Old 01-14-2012, 03:22 AM   #6187
dgmeister
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just had the carb out actually to clean it.
Jets are 52 pilot and 155 main,
keihin jets i think, they have a 'k'
stamped next to the jet number
(i think what allows me to run these large jets
is the race tuned staintune exhaust, and large
hole cut in the airbox lid)

yes was running rather rich,
but i figure that is better than lean hey?
(was running way too lean for ages- it sucks arse)
pilot jet should go down to a 50 though i reckon

i have now lowered the jet needle (N1RX i think)
from 2mm raised to 1mm raised, this has now leaned
the mid range to about the correct setting:
-more responsive
-more power around 5-7000 rpm
has fixed a mid range bog, to more responsive power.
still strong at high rpm, and high cruising speeds.
hopefully this clears up the mid range bog and high fuel consumption
a little.

Linkin: the spring only allows the slide to lift a little faster (more responsive)
(and return to idle slower) the slide itself is far more important when
modifying for performance, as far as its vacuum operation (holes)
is concerned, as the vacuum is what actually LIFTS the slide.
(faster stronger slide lift = more power and response at all rpm)

dgmeister screwed with this post 01-14-2012 at 03:30 AM
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:08 AM   #6188
linkin5
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dgmiester, my point was really to anyone reading the forum thinking about carb mods. My advice was correct, as my point was that the slide need not be drilled if you chose to go with the 2152 dynojet kit. As some people might not want to take that step and there are good options out there. As far as wheather it's better to drill or just replace the spring it's debatable as I have not seen any compairsion dyno's to say one is better than the other. As far as the slide moving up and down if it goes up too quick the bike will bog from that alone. My other point was the basic reccomendations in the kit were pretty close as I was able to jet my bike in just over an hour and have been riding ever since without ever really thinking about it again.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:58 AM   #6189
dgmeister
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linkin, sorry man no offence intended.
i am merely trying to convey what i have learned from this
bike from my high mileage, to help other owners.

i have long been dancing around this subject and it requires clarification:
i suspect the US carb internals are different from the AUS internals
and these make ALL the difference. I was actually shocked when i
successfully modified the carb, because the bike went from a dangerous toy,
to a real motorbike! remember this bike has won a 250cc enduro championship
here in australia, the engine/bike is not shite like it may seem at first.

Our AUS bikes come jetted 32 pilot 132 main from the factory
(i assume this is because of the larger exhaust diameter and different carb internals)

my first mod was to cut the spring a little bit shorter (about 2cm) which allows the slide to open
easier, be careful if cutting to not cut too much off or the throttle will stick.

I have not modified my slide by drilling 'the hole' wider, but i have done the
(aus?) mod of filling the two top holes (just under the diaphragm) with epoxy,
if not blocked these holes basically prevent the vacuum from occurring at all!
(they work with opposite force to the hole that is drilled wider, because they
are in the top where the diaphragm sits and equalize the pressure, hence the blocking)
i don't know what is in the place of these on the US carb

this modification, coupled with the raised needle, was by far the single most effective improvement
to the bike, including fitting possibly the best aftermarket pipe you can get for this bike.

are the US carb slides alloy like the AUS ones???
i would like to see a photograph of the US carb slide

this is all jumbled gibberish but what i am saying is you absolutely MUST
replace your carb internals with australian spec
( i can provide part numbers) or perhaps klx 300 spec
(same carby) to get decent performance

-slide
-jet needle
-needle jet
-needle jet holder
etc.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:33 PM   #6190
rickypanecatyl
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easier seat removal

I got an idea I wanted to throw out there to see if someone has a better one!


I've been lazy to check/clean my airfilter simply because it is so much work to take my seat off.

I have a cheap, custom made local rack that allows me to slide a givi top box back and forth (I slide it back for passengers) but the problem is now to take off/put on the seat I have to line up 5 holes - my seat bolts go thru:

1. The rear rack
2. A spacer
3. The plastic sidepiece
4. The seat brackets and
5. Finally into the frame.

So I was thinking of just cutting the 2 metal seat brackets off the bottom of the seat and rigging up 1 single metal strap that comes right out the middle of the back of the seat and then having 1 single easy access bolt, bolting it to the top of the rear fender. Underneath the rear fender I was going to weld a strap with a hole/nut in it to screw into.

Do you think my seat will be sloppy with just 1 attachment point?
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Old 01-18-2012, 09:40 PM   #6191
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Ricky,
I think the seat may get a little floppy. Is there anyway you can test it first before cutting off the tabs? Put on the rear connection, and ride it with the seat bolts out. That's kind of a predicament, and there has to be a good solution...
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:38 PM   #6192
rickypanecatyl
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You may be right... it'll probably be pretty stable though in my test as even if the tabs are bolted in I think they offer some stability just being there....

I know... I'll just make the hole way bigger!! :)
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:13 AM   #6193
jamster
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After market first

Dgmeister/Linkin tyvm for your input on the klx250s carb system ,the us carbs are plastic slides with two holes on top 1 in middle for the neddle and 1 off set a bit. I guess it's for air to escape the diaphram as the slide opens and the spring i would think is to push it back down.

As soon as i get my after market tail pipe think im leaning toward the FMF power bomb header w the power core 4 aluminum muffler i found on ebay for $409.00 usd w free shipping as a package deal. Other wise i like the megabomb header also by FMF guaranteed 3hp increase, but would run me $65.00 usd more . Big investment but i think well worth it .

Snowing here in Chicago so have not rode the bike for 2 weeks (seems like 4ever) .when i do the rejet again after the tail pipe install i will post pics on the american carbs plastic slide . I would love the part # for the Aluminum slide is you would be so kind as to post that plz Dgmeister.

So i did Drill my top slide w 7/64 drill bit and put the new spring in w/ the needle at the 3rd clip from the top down w/ 2 washers per Dyno-jets instructions #120 main & #40 pilot with the kouba-screw 4 easy air fuel mix at 2.5 out. Also im running a stock pipe that i drilled out with a extra long 1/2 bit going thru 2 steel walls (seems like way more air flow now).I removed the air pollution stuff and capped all the 3 male ends.also did the crankcase mod and removed all the steel screen from the airbox cut down the snorkel to 1" top and bottom 4 now.

I have only had the bike out once since i did all the mods over x-mas break so i decided that i will wait till i get the new pipe cuz it ran , but did not run well imo. want to put the new exhaust on then tweak it.

Those pegs that i ordered a page or two back from ebay fit/look perfect . Twice as large as the stock pegs.For 20 bucks they look Awesome .Thx again !!!! Cjbiker
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:59 AM   #6194
Ranger Ron
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The part number for the metal slide (North America) is: 43028-1081 DIAPHRAGM,VALVE (Slide)

It is the slide for the KLX300.

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Old 01-19-2012, 10:34 AM   #6195
PaigeIGGY
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I put the chinese(?) ebay oversize pegs on too. Look like they will work fine for 22 bucks delivered.

When my plastic carb slide wears out, I will replace it with another plastic carb slide
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