Long term KLX250S review

[TNC]

Originally Posted by FloorPoor

Hey, I'm new to this thread and too lazy to read the whole thing. I finally convinced my brother to buy a very nicely setup, little used, KLX from a riding buddy of mine(I would have bought it for the super bargain price, basically buy the aftermarket parts and get the low mileage bike for free, but I couldn't do it). Anyway the bike has a 351 kit, plus lots more, and is geared about as low as it can be. It works awesome in the rough stuff, Ive taken it on some NASTY, ROCKY, technical trails, but my brother will be using it for commuting and light DS riding, it's his first bike. I'm wondering what gearing to put on it for him so it will pull 70 mph semi comfortably, and still be able to take on some semi-knarly trails. Right now, with the loss of top end caused by the oversized piston, and the uber low gears, it will barely go 60-65, and it is NOT happy about it. I'm pretty sure it has the torque to pull some pretty tall gears, but don't want to go too tall.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, I've put a few hundred miles on the bike, but don't know much about it other than it makes a kick-ass, but a little porky trail bike.

P.S. The bike also has a Mikuni accelerator pump carb, does anybody know anything about that thing? Good/Bad or otherwise? Should I stick with it or put the stock one back on for him?

On the carb, it's either a Bill Blue modified TM33 bored to 34mm or a TM36 pumper. They are great carbs. I just put a TM36 on my '06 KLX. I just rode with another KLX guy in Colorado for several days doing a bunch of off road. I had the stock CV carb with a DJ kit and he had the BB TM34. On a day's ride with quite a few miles racked up, he beat me by about .3 of a gallon. It's a pretty good deal to get better response and power with the pumper carb and still beat the stock CV carb. If the pumper carb is jetted right you'll get about equal or maybe even a little better than stock. Even though your brother will do mostly pavement, he'll appreciate the carb for its acceleration and better highway passing.

[250senuf]

14-42 is stock gearing on the 250S
14-39 is stock gearing on the SF (supermoto version)(17" wheels)
The 351 should have no problem at all pulling the 14-39 gearing with the 18" rear wheel.

Have fun!

[IDRIDR]

I could agree with 14/39 gears for mostly commuting and flatter riding, especially with the 351. Keep in mind it's generally easy to drop/raise the front to 13/15 and one tooth on the front equal about three on the rear. Also check out GearingCommander.com

[FloorPoor]

Originally Posted by IDRIDR

I could agree with 14/39 gears for mostly commuting and flatter riding, especially with the 351. Keep in mind it's generally easy to drop/raise the front to 13/15 and one tooth on the front equal about three on the rear. Also check out GearingCommander.com

Thanks for all the fast replies. My brother got a SWEET! deal on the KLX. $1,900 for an 06 with only 3,000 miles on the clock and the grand total of all the aftermarket stuff is more than the price he paid for the bike. My friend who sold it was desperate and offered it for a ridiculous price.

IDRIDR, My bro lives in Boise (I'm in Idaho Falls) I'm going to try to get the bike over to him before the end of the month. I'm going to turn him on to this forum and this thread, perhaps you guys could get together for a ride at some point in the future. I'm going to try to help him set it up for him, but I only make it over there every few months, perhaps you could give him a few pointers. He's an avid mountain biker, so he should take to off road motorcycling pretty well.

[250senuf]

Originally Posted by FloorPoor

I'm going to turn him on to this forum and this thread.

Let him know about this forum as well:
http://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/

[rickypanecatyl]

Originally Posted by FloorPoor

Thanks for all the fast replies. My brother got a SWEET! deal on the KLX. $1,900 for an 06 with only 3,000 miles on the clock and the grand total of all the aftermarket stuff is more than the price he paid for the bike. My friend who sold it was desperate and offered it for a ridiculous price.

Wow that is an insane price!! Last night I clicked over 51,000 KM on my bike and could probably get $7,000 USD for it here. However of that price,the liscence plate/paper work is worth about $3,500.

I've been super impressed with how well it has done, but am starting to worry that it wont be around that much longer. I've often got friends coming out here from the US and am wondering what the cheapest way to update my bike is. (Just had a friend call whose coming over in 2 weeks with 2 friends and he said each of them could 70lbs worth of stuff!)

I'd buy bike like that for $1,900 and then take the internals out of the engine and bring them over here!

So now I'm curious... what would you guys do with a KLX351 with 51,000 + KM's on it? What's the most prudent thing economically? Here are my parameters:

- I can probably change everything on my bike except for the liscence plate and where I have the VIN # on the engine and frame.

- I do about 25-30,000 KM a year. Commute most every day, have fun in the jungles many weekends and do a couple 1 or 2 "adventure" type trips a year. (6 months ago did about 10k thru Malaysia, Thailand, Burma and Laos)

[IDRIDR]

Originally Posted by FloorPoor

IDRIDR, My bro lives in Boise (I'm in Idaho Falls) I'm going to try to get the bike over to him before the end of the month. I'm going to turn him on to this forum and this thread, perhaps you guys could get together for a ride at some point in the future. I'm going to try to help him set it up for him, but I only make it over there every few months, perhaps you could give him a few pointers. He's an avid mountain biker, so he should take to off road motorcycling pretty well.

With the riding we have around here and him being an avid MBkr, I'd hesitate into jumping into the 39 sprocket right away. That's just really high gearing unless all he will do is stay on the slap and gravel. I'll take him up 8th street or something with the gears he has first. I could let him use my stock 42 for a while perhaps. Send him my way and I'll do what I can.

[IDRIDR]

Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl

Wow that is an insane price!! Last night I clicked over 51,000 KM on my bike and could probably get $7,000 USD for it here. However of that price,the liscence plate/paper work is worth about $3,500.

I've been super impressed with how well it has done, but am starting to worry that it wont be around that much longer. I've often got friends coming out here from the US and am wondering what the cheapest way to update my bike is. (Just had a friend call whose coming over in 2 weeks with 2 friends and he said each of them could 70lbs worth of stuff!)

I'd buy bike like that for $1,900 and then take the internals out of the engine and bring them over here!

So now I'm curious... what would you guys do with a KLX351 with 51,000 + KM's on it? What's the most prudent thing economically? Here are my parameters:

- I can probably change everything on my bike except for the liscence plate and where I have the VIN # on the engine and frame.

- I do about 25-30,000 KM a year. Commute most every day, have fun in the jungles many weekends and do a couple 1 or 2 "adventure" type trips a year. (6 months ago did about 10k thru Malaysia, Thailand, Burma and Laos)

Ricky -
If I understand what you're saying, you want to keep the KLX but worry about the internals going out. I'd keep a lookout for an ebay motor from a wreck, or the $1,900 deal (good luck!) and have BB build another 351 for you to keep in reserve. I occasionally see a $2,500 or less craig's list deal around here (that's how I picked up my '06 with 3.5K miles).

[rickypanecatyl]

I'm guess I'm wondering besides the piston/rings what else can start to go wrong in a high mileage engine? Cam chain, valves, gears themselves, crank, pins... I don't really know but am sure it would be big bucks to replace those individually!

I don't even know... does Kawasaki sell a complete engine at a reasonable price?

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl

I'm guess I'm wondering besides the piston/rings what else can start to go wrong in a high mileage engine? Cam chain, valves, gears themselves, crank, pins... I don't really know but am sure it would be big bucks to replace those individually!

I don't even know... does Kawasaki sell a complete engine at a reasonable price?

Actually, all this little stuff is relatively inexpensive. You'd have to buy a used motor, otherwise buying a complete motor from Kawi would be expensive... you'd be better off just buying another used bike.

There are plenty of places online where you can order individual parts pretty cheaply (partspitstop.com is the cheapest I've found so far). Then once it's done, you know it's done right and will last.

Rob

[rickypanecatyl]

Thanks Rob!

Any one have any thoughts on a long lasting chain? Local price here for the OEM unit is $300 and I've got an opportunity to have one shipped to a US address shortly...

[Lutz]

Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl

Thanks Rob!

Any one have any thoughts on a long lasting chain? Local price here for the OEM unit is $300 and I've got an opportunity to have one shipped to a US address shortly...

I think the OEM chain is just a basic cheap o-ring model from EK. Mine has almost 12,000 miles on it, original sprockets too. Granted mine has had a mostly easy life of highway and gravel commuting, very little mud, sand, and trail riding percentage wise. Chain care has been limited to frequent lubrication with chain lube, wd-40, or motor oil at times, and an occasional washing from the garden hose. These bikes aren't very taxing on a chain based on torque/power output, though your 351 definitely has more than my 250. I guess what I'm saying is pretty much any sealed chain should provide decent life - just how decent depends on conditions. I'm sure that jungle mud is going to be tough on the chain.

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl

Thanks Rob!

Any one have any thoughts on a long lasting chain? Local price here for the OEM unit is $300 and I've got an opportunity to have one shipped to a US address shortly...

Screw OEM. Just get a nice DID chain from Rocky Mountain ATV for $99 or thereabouts. Stock length I think is 108, but I would get a 110 or even a 112 if you're planning to get a larger rear sprocket. I think the stock chain is too short as it is, since you have to remove the rear wheel to change the front sprocket due to lack of chain slack... and still plenty of adjustment room to make up for it.

BTW if you change the chain, you should probably change the sprockets too. Makes everything last longer that way.

Rob

[rickypanecatyl]

Thanks Rob! One more silly question... is it easy/feasible to change the 2006/7 style chain tightener "thingamahjiggy" to the 2009 and newer style?

I'm talking about those notched cam things around the axle bolt that push the axle back/tighten the chain.

[griffo1962]

Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl

Thanks Rob! One more silly question... is it easy/feasible to change the 2006/7 style chain tightener "thingamahjiggy" to the 2009 and newer style?

I'm talking about those notched cam things around the axle bolt that push the axle back/tighten the chain.

only if you use a new model swingarm as well....