Building electric clothing - Page 8

Uncle Pollo · 11-20-2006, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZZR_Ron

Let me know how the gloves work out.. I'm currently using "Grabber McCoal"
hand warmers when things get a touch nippy.

As soon as i get them I will do a full report on heated layering

advridgerunner · 11-20-2006, 11:24 AM

Being an Anal-hypen-Retentive engineer and cheap-ass, I've decided to build my own electic jacket.

bunch of tight asses', own KLR's do ya?

Actually, the thought of me wrapping myself in 30-40 feet of powered wire is an accident waiting to fry, I mean happen,
This ain't no hobby boys.

just saying

EZ OUT · 11-20-2006, 01:42 PM

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B000GUNAZ6

Puffer Jacket ?

With a name like that, I'll be those are flying off the shelves

But seriously,
Enjoying the thread.

Toying with experimenting with the heated stuff. I like the idea of starting with the Wally World seat heater and advancing from there.

adaycj · 11-20-2006, 07:53 PM

I'll likely get slammed by some EE that shows me some fundamental thing that I am missing here, but I have noted some things in my electrical life that may be of interest here.

OHMS law is great and all but it seems to have one "flaw" that I have uncovered in automotive applications. Now first let me say that I do not dispute the laws of physics, or electricity. My observation is simply this. 12v = 1ohm * 12 amps. Use an ohm meter on the bench and I see 1 ohm. Hook up the circuit and I measure 10 amps with an inline amp meter. I go back thinking I have a power supply voltage problem. Nope, total voltage drop is 12v. What happened?

The bulb got hot. Resistance changed when the bulb was 600 degrees f or what ever temp it turned out to be. Any chance the unexpected results some have gotten are related to this behavior?

ZZR_Ron · 11-20-2006, 08:35 PM

It's called negative or positive temperature coefficient.

Get over it.

xtphreak · 11-21-2006, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adaycj

I'll likely get slammed by some EE that shows me some fundamental thing that I am missing here, but I have noted some things in my electrical life that may be of interest here.

OHMS law is great and all but it seems to have one "flaw" that I have uncovered in automotive applications. Now first let me say that I do not dispute the laws of physics, or electricity. My observation is simply this. 12v = 1ohm * 12 amps. Use an ohm meter on the bench and I see 1 ohm. Hook up the circuit and I measure 10 amps with an inline amp meter. I go back thinking I have a power supply voltage problem. Nope, total voltage drop is 12v. What happened?

The bulb got hot. Resistance changed when the bulb was 600 degrees f or what ever temp it turned out to be. Any chance the unexpected results some have gotten are related to this behavior?

try a resistor vs. a bulb filament

xtphreak · 11-21-2006, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by advridgerunner

Being an Anal-hypen-Retentive engineer and cheap-ass, I've decided to build my own electic jacket.

bunch of tight asses', own KLR's do ya?

Actually, the thought of me wrapping myself in 30-40 feet of powered wire is an accident waiting to fry, I mean happen,
This ain't no hobby boys.

just saying

so it's better to buy a commercial vest with 30-40 feet of powered wire?

ever see an electric blanket?

ever hear of fusing?

spend that consumable income
never use anything that isn't approved by somebody

best advice is to never try and do something yourself, it's probably not a good idea to change the oil in yer bike neither, you probably ain't certified

Uncle Pollo · 11-21-2006, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by advridgerunner

Being an Anal-hypen-Retentive engineer and cheap-ass, I've decided to build my own electic jacket.

bunch of tight asses', own KLR's do ya?

Actually, the thought of me wrapping myself in 30-40 feet of powered wire is an accident waiting to fry, I mean happen,
This ain't no hobby boys.

just saying

Your wife will not let you play with electricity?

Just saying

adaycj · 11-21-2006, 06:41 PM

I have nothing to get over. Just seemed that a positive temperature coefficient could be the issue with the less than stellar performance of some of the designs here. I'll quit messing with bulbs as soon as they stop showing up in vehicle applications. Soon enough I suspect.

ZZR_Ron · 11-21-2006, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adaycj

I have nothing to get over. Just seemed that a positive temperature coefficient could be the issue with the less than stellar performance of some of the designs here. I'll quit messing with bulbs as soon as they stop showing up in vehicle applications. Soon enough I suspect.

Sorry dewd, I was just joking around.

Don't take me too seriously.

I like building shit, it's just something to do in the winter, and it's kinda
fun having these little projects sometimes.

The winters are too long.

zero · 11-22-2006, 12:56 PM

I did have one thought for tempreture controlls..

LED indicator relays, these are set to a certain time and not off load, so adding a varyable resistor where the set resistor for "time on" would normally be you'd get much the same effect as a PWM controller.. just a thought..

Or otherwise how about a thermostatic switch? seems to make allot more sense? seeing as it would react to the tempreture without you needing to pish about turning it up/down all the time.. you'd not even need a controll other than on/off then..

any reason that wouldn't work?

ZZR_Ron · 11-22-2006, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zero

I did have one thought for tempreture controlls..

LED indicator relays, these are set to a certain time and not off load, so adding a varyable resistor where the set resistor for "time on" would normally be you'd get much the same effect as a PWM controller.. just a thought..

Or otherwise how about a thermostatic switch? seems to make allot more sense? seeing as it would react to the tempreture without you needing to pish about turning it up/down all the time.. you'd not even need a controll other than on/off then..

any reason that wouldn't work?

People have used turn signal realys with some success even.

It seems like you need either no heat, some heat, or lots of heat.

If it works for you, use it!

harderkev · 11-22-2006, 05:55 PM

I have my jacket completely wired now. As I posted earlier, I tailored the mesh liner to fit snug against my body while allowing the outer shell to keep a loose appearance. I threaded the 30ga. wire between the outer shell and mesh liner, only poking through the liner every few inches to keep the wire in place. The small amount of wire poking through the liner does not burn my bare arms while wearing only a short sleeve shirt.

In my first attempt, I tried to wire the entire jacket with 34' of wire. I ran out of wire just before I finished my wiring pattern, so I had to add a few feet to the length. I plugged-in the PWM and checked the heat level. I was running about 48 watts in this configuration and I could tell just standing beside the bike that it wouldn't be enough.

I decided I would rewire the jacket with two 30' lengths of the 30ga. wire, each covering half the jacket, and wired in parallel. I removed the first wiring job and installed the two 30' lengths. The biggest PITA is finding a wiring pattern that uses all the wire you want without running out before you end your pattern! I had to pull some wiring a couple of times to get it right.

Final outcome is the jacket has 1.7 ohms resistance, draws 8.5 amps and cranks out a whopping 122 watts at 14.4 volts!! I wasn't afraid of having too much heat since the PWM worked very well on my test run and will turn down to zero output. For comparison, the Warm N Safe men's jacket has 1.6 ohms resistance and would draw 9 smps and put out 130 watts at 14.4 volts.

The PWM sits in a project box in my tank bag and can be reached easily by unzipping the bag zipper just a few inches.

I'll be wiring a pair of pants as soon as they arrive (I altered the first pair in a way I don't like and can't undo). I'm planning to put two 40' sections in the pants to match the heat output of the jacket (I figure around 90 watts total).

Here are my supplies:
Jacket
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4939314
Pants
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4939294
Hook Up Wire
http://weicowire.com/cartadd.asp?sPa...Hook%2DUp+Wire
MX033 Pulse Width Modulator
http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033
or
http://www.aseanexport.com/Division/...logyKit/MX.php
Project Box
http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H2041.html
SAE flat connectors
http://www.solarseller.com/low_volta...extensions.htm

Kev.

cwc · 11-22-2006, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GS THONG

If you are "TFC" to buy a good vest why are you in the GSpot?????
Or dou you really just ride a CX500 honda?

On my first trip to Copper Canyon one of our group rode a CX500 south out of Bato to the Rio Urique on a road that I have never seen a big trailie on.

Nuthin wrong with a CX500.

ZZR_Ron · 11-23-2006, 09:35 AM

I have a little Minolta camera that I always carry on the bike.

The only problem is, the batteries freeze up. If I carry it inside my jacket, it' too much of a pain to take it out all the time.

So, I bought this little automotive baby bottle warmer, and plug it into one
of the SAE plugs in my tankbag.

11-20-2006, 01:42 PM	#108
EZ OUT Sneaky Slow Joined: Dec 2004 Location: NE Ohio Vacation land of the Midwest Oddometer: 672	http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B000GUNAZ6 Puffer Jacket ? With a name like that, I'll be those are flying off the shelves But seriously, Enjoying the thread. Toying with experimenting with the heated stuff. I like the idea of starting with the Wally World seat heater and advancing from there. __________________ I am not a number, I am a free man 01 Triumph Sprint ST 1982 Suzuki GS 850L 1977 Kawasaki KZ 400 1973 Honda CB 450 1975 Honda MT 125 1969 Honda 50 minitrail

11-20-2006, 08:35 PM	#110
ZZR_Ron Underground Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada Oddometer: 7,518	It's called negative or positive temperature coefficient. Get over it. __________________ Great minds think alike;small minds seldom differ...

11-22-2006, 05:55 PM	#118
harderkev Slab Sucks! Joined: Jun 2005 Location: Santa Margarita, Ca. Oddometer: 356	Progress Report I have my jacket completely wired now. As I posted earlier, I tailored the mesh liner to fit snug against my body while allowing the outer shell to keep a loose appearance. I threaded the 30ga. wire between the outer shell and mesh liner, only poking through the liner every few inches to keep the wire in place. The small amount of wire poking through the liner does not burn my bare arms while wearing only a short sleeve shirt. In my first attempt, I tried to wire the entire jacket with 34' of wire. I ran out of wire just before I finished my wiring pattern, so I had to add a few feet to the length. I plugged-in the PWM and checked the heat level. I was running about 48 watts in this configuration and I could tell just standing beside the bike that it wouldn't be enough. I decided I would rewire the jacket with two 30' lengths of the 30ga. wire, each covering half the jacket, and wired in parallel. I removed the first wiring job and installed the two 30' lengths. The biggest PITA is finding a wiring pattern that uses all the wire you want without running out before you end your pattern! I had to pull some wiring a couple of times to get it right. Final outcome is the jacket has 1.7 ohms resistance, draws 8.5 amps and cranks out a whopping 122 watts at 14.4 volts!! I wasn't afraid of having too much heat since the PWM worked very well on my test run and will turn down to zero output. For comparison, the Warm N Safe men's jacket has 1.6 ohms resistance and would draw 9 smps and put out 130 watts at 14.4 volts. The PWM sits in a project box in my tank bag and can be reached easily by unzipping the bag zipper just a few inches. I'll be wiring a pair of pants as soon as they arrive (I altered the first pair in a way I don't like and can't undo). I'm planning to put two 40' sections in the pants to match the heat output of the jacket (I figure around 90 watts total). Here are my supplies: Jacket http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4939314 Pants http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4939294 Hook Up Wire http://weicowire.com/cartadd.asp?sPa...Hook%2DUp+Wire MX033 Pulse Width Modulator http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033 or http://www.aseanexport.com/Division/...logyKit/MX.php Project Box http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H2041.html SAE flat connectors http://www.solarseller.com/low_volta...extensions.htm Kev.

11-23-2006, 09:35 AM	#120
ZZR_Ron Underground Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada Oddometer: 7,518	A bit off topic. I have a little Minolta camera that I always carry on the bike. The only problem is, the batteries freeze up. If I carry it inside my jacket, it' too much of a pain to take it out all the time. So, I bought this little automotive baby bottle warmer, and plug it into one of the SAE plugs in my tankbag. Attached Images __________________ Great minds think alike;small minds seldom differ...

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11-20-2006, 11:24 AM	#107
advridgerunner RESIST WE MUCH ! Joined: Jan 2006 Location: Chesapeake AND Bedford Co. VA Oddometer: 1,048	Being an Anal-hypen-Retentive engineer and cheap-ass, I've decided to build my own electic jacket. bunch of tight asses', own KLR's do ya? Actually, the thought of me wrapping myself in 30-40 feet of powered wire is an accident waiting to fry, I mean happen, This ain't no hobby boys. just saying

11-20-2006, 07:53 PM	#109
adaycj Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2003 Oddometer: 457	I'll likely get slammed by some EE that shows me some fundamental thing that I am missing here, but I have noted some things in my electrical life that may be of interest here. OHMS law is great and all but it seems to have one "flaw" that I have uncovered in automotive applications. Now first let me say that I do not dispute the laws of physics, or electricity. My observation is simply this. 12v = 1ohm * 12 amps. Use an ohm meter on the bench and I see 1 ohm. Hook up the circuit and I measure 10 amps with an inline amp meter. I go back thinking I have a power supply voltage problem. Nope, total voltage drop is 12v. What happened? The bulb got hot. Resistance changed when the bulb was 600 degrees f or what ever temp it turned out to be. Any chance the unexpected results some have gotten are related to this behavior?

11-21-2006, 06:41 PM	#114
adaycj Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2003 Oddometer: 457	I have nothing to get over. Just seemed that a positive temperature coefficient could be the issue with the less than stellar performance of some of the designs here. I'll quit messing with bulbs as soon as they stop showing up in vehicle applications. Soon enough I suspect.

11-22-2006, 12:56 PM	#116
zero Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Midlands UK Oddometer: 208	I did have one thought for tempreture controlls.. LED indicator relays, these are set to a certain time and not off load, so adding a varyable resistor where the set resistor for "time on" would normally be you'd get much the same effect as a PWM controller.. just a thought.. Or otherwise how about a thermostatic switch? seems to make allot more sense? seeing as it would react to the tempreture without you needing to pish about turning it up/down all the time.. you'd not even need a controll other than on/off then.. any reason that wouldn't work?