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Old 10-20-2012, 08:49 PM   #3211
Forseti
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Bad spark plug boots would be my guess. Starts arcing to the head and messes up the dash as well as misfires.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:52 PM   #3212
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Btw... quick way to temp fix.... wrap the elbow with electrical tape.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:36 PM   #3213
Sock Monkey
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Might be a dodgy ground wire. Check them (there are several) and the plug wires/boots. Be sure to check at the battery for corrosion too.

-SM
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:28 PM   #3214
Ham
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Well today had a fantastic ride and I finally found the long lost back route from Logan, Mt to Tosten, MT. This is a shot from a high meadow looking south at the Spanish Peaks.



After some real narly two track, I am amazed at how well this rig handles tough stuff...the balance is amazing, I arrived high above the Missourri right when a train came pulling through...it was a stunning view.



But just as I blew through Four Corners I had a power shut down, immediate and smooth. I tried to restart...my dash lit right up but there was just a solid click. I took a look at the battery and sure enough the positive lead was very lose. I tightened it and tried again...nothing. Then I found the nut on the starter was lose so I tightened it. Nothing. I decided the connections must have been good enough to run the battery down but not charge it so I called my wife. We brought back my portable 12 volt jumper and walaa she started up and ran smooth. I let her run a while then made a dash for home but one mile away she shut down again, it tried to make it taking off a couple of times then was dead. I trailered her home. I will tie into her in the AM as I still suspect something lose. Also this time the "Service" light came on. Any ideas. Its my own fault for not going through this rig and tightening things but this was my last ride and I was saving that for something to do in the winter. Any other ideas?
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:03 AM   #3215
Toadride
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Location: Done Roamin/Now Homin.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldierguy View Post
Ok...perhaps I'm mildly retarded. I've been accused of that before.

How do I get the wiring OUT of the mirrors? Cut it near the base of the mirror stem? Or is there a way to disassemble the mirrors that I'm just not seeing?

I've got the euro mirrors and fairing mounted turn signals that I want to install. I'd rather not needlessly break the stock mirrors & signals in case I need a spare at some point, or someone else does. And I'd rather have longer wires than shorter...easy to trim long wires, but not as easy to lengthen short ones.

I see the little phillips-head screw underneath the amber lens on the mirror. I removed that already, and removed the amber turn-signal cover on the front of the mirror. I just can't seem to get any further without feeling like I'm about to break the plastic reflector or mirror housing.

If anyone has any tips on doing this, I'm all ears. I think I've got it once I get the wiring out of the mirror stem...just have to figure out how to wire up the new turn signal housing once I get everything disassembled.

Thanks in advance!
Ya SG. Do't be a retard like me and cut the wires and solder/shrink tube them before someone points out the obvious. Doh!
But, you do have a 2011, right? As it seems every year Stelvio changes does your side covers split?
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:14 AM   #3216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ham View Post
Well today had a fantastic ride and I finally found the long lost back route from Logan, Mt to Tosten, MT. This is a shot from a high meadow looking south at the Spanish Peaks.



After some real narly two track, I am amazed at how well this rig handles tough stuff...the balance is amazing, I arrived high above the Missourri right when a train came pulling through...it was a stunning view.



But just as I blew through Four Corners I had a power shut down, immediate and smooth. I tried to restart...my dash lit right up but there was just a solid click. I took a look at the battery and sure enough the positive lead was very lose. I tightened it and tried again...nothing. Then I found the nut on the starter was lose so I tightened it. Nothing. I decided the connections must have been good enough to run the battery down but not charge it so I called my wife. We brought back my portable 12 volt jumper and walaa she started up and ran smooth. I let her run a while then made a dash for home but one mile away she shut down again, it tried to make it taking off a couple of times then was dead. I trailered her home. I will tie into her in the AM as I still suspect something lose. Also this time the "Service" light came on. Any ideas. Its my own fault for not going through this rig and tightening things but this was my last ride and I was saving that for something to do in the winter. Any other ideas?

Twice now my problems have been from loose grounds. Take the cover off the starter and you will see ground attachments to both the top and the bottom bolts. And check the clip on wire from the ignition which is almost hidden at the back end of the starter. mine was loose and required squeezing to make it 'bite'. Also, very important, take off the left side panel and make sure the ground to the ECU is tight. Hell, even check the mounting bolts. What worries me about yours is you saw lines thru the computer screen. That can indicate a corrupt pooter and I'd be mentioning that to the service boys. With my loose connections I got the warning readouts but never lines thru the screen. Good luck.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:19 AM   #3217
pyoungbl
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It seems that loose ground connections are becoming common on the Stelvio. To that end, I'm in contact with Michael Heath (Motolectric) about making up a kit to upgrade the starting circuit. I installed his wires on three previous bikes (Ducati and BMW) and could see an immediate improvement in starting. The wire he uses is about 100% larger diameter multi strand wire, similar to what is used on welding machines. If I can, at the same time, figure out a better ground connection location maybe I can cure this ground connection problem. As I see it, the ground wires are attached to the frame by an odd bolt where the head is threaded so a 6mm machine screw can be inserted to attach the starter cover. Thus the ground bolt is doing double duty. I'm going to scour the bike today to see if I can find a more secure grounding location...maybe one of the starter bolts.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:55 AM   #3218
Sock Monkey
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With dodgy power and ground to electronics, all manner of odd results can occur.

Ham, I'm guessing as others have said, and you suspect, somewhere there is still a loose connection and yes, you likely ran your battery down as a result (twice).

Most of the folks having these issues are riding their bikes on rough roads/two track, where you would naturally get more vibration and shock. You have to treat the big girl just like you'd treat your dirt bike, and go over it securing this stuff ahead of time (and bring tools to secure the stuff that was tight, but loosens). Big singles are exactly the same way....all manner of stuff shakes loose (my KTM 520 was notorious for this), so you need to stay on top of it! Once you figure out which nuts/bolts are the most prone to coming undone, hit 'em with Loctite (or similar) once home and you won't need to worry about 'em again.

As an aside, for folks doing lots of water crossings, etc., also be sure to 1) reroute your CARC breather so it's as high as your air intake, and 2) pop your wheels off and give the bearings a good packing with grease. Ask the BMW F800 guys how their bearings are holding up . It amazes me how many people ride through rivers, streams, etc., and never once repack their bearings, then sit by the roadside and wonder how/why their wheel nearly fell off.

If you're going to treat these bikes like big dirt bikes, you have to maintain them as such. It just comes with the territory. Good on ya Ham for taking her out in the weeds for a romp. A little Loctite here and there should have you sorted for your next adventure.

-SM

Sock Monkey screwed with this post 10-21-2012 at 01:40 PM
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:31 AM   #3219
Ham
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Thanks folks for your support and suggestions. I am heading out to work on her with renewed gusto (and a good nites sleep).

I never had any lines on my screen....I think that was someone else, but I did have the service light come on. Initially it just showed me a wrench, but the second time it gave me the wrench and the !SERVICE light.

Sockmonkey you make a lot of sense and I most certainly shook her out yesterday.
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Old 10-21-2012, 03:46 PM   #3220
pyoungbl
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While we are talking about the electrical connections, here's where the problem seems to lie:


This is what you see when you take the starter cover off. The lower bolt is where the battery ground cable attaches. If you take this apart you will find that the cable is secured with just a 6mm bolt, not much there to keep it from getting loose and bringing your day to an end. Since the battery - terminal is on the left side of the bike that cable has to go under the air cleaner and across the engine to get to this attachment point. Mine measured out to 26". I think I can use one of the engine bolts on the left side of the engine to get a better and shorter connection.

There is a ground to the upper bolt too but I have not explored where that one goes...it ain't the battery.

This crappy photo shows the stud I'm thinking about:

It's the silver blob in the middle of the photo. If I can use this stud the wire will be 10" shorter and of a larger diameter. I'll let you know how this works out.

Peter Y.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:02 PM   #3221
James Adams
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I think that some threadlock would be sufficient here. It's not like the grounding point is ineffective or undersized, it's that the connection keeps working itself loose.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:50 AM   #3222
soldierguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadride View Post
Ya SG. Do't be a retard like me and cut the wires and solder/shrink tube them before someone points out the obvious. Doh!
But, you do have a 2011, right? As it seems every year Stelvio changes does your side covers split?


Yeah I think every year is different, and the small things (electrical connectors, some screws/bolts etc) are different based on whatever happens to be available at the factory at the time of the build. For instance, on mine the new turn signal housings pop right in with no need to separate the panels, and is held in place by a couple of small allen bolts...elsewhere in this thread was described something that doesn't match what's on mine. And the electrical connector to the bulb in the original turn signal doesn't even come close to matching the connector on the new turn signal, and neither of those match an in-line connector on the turn signal wiring down behind the oil cooler. So regardless of what I do, there will be some cutting and splicing involved.

And my comment on the bolts...I was screwing around with my gas cap assembly, and discovered that what should be 4 identical allen bolts holding it in place is actually 3 identical bolts and one short one...the short one still works, but is different than the rest.

Not a huge deal...just need to figure out the simplest and cleanest way to do this.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:27 AM   #3223
Sock Monkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldierguy View Post


Yeah I think every year is different, and the small things (electrical connectors, some screws/bolts etc) are different based on whatever happens to be available at the factory at the time of the build. For instance, on mine the new turn signal housings pop right in with no need to separate the panels, and is held in place by a couple of small allen bolts...elsewhere in this thread was described something that doesn't match what's on mine. And the electrical connector to the bulb in the original turn signal doesn't even come close to matching the connector on the new turn signal, and neither of those match an in-line connector on the turn signal wiring down behind the oil cooler. So regardless of what I do, there will be some cutting and splicing involved.

And my comment on the bolts...I was screwing around with my gas cap assembly, and discovered that what should be 4 identical allen bolts holding it in place is actually 3 identical bolts and one short one...the short one still works, but is different than the rest.

Not a huge deal...just need to figure out the simplest and cleanest way to do this.
Interesting. I hope "pop right in" doesn't also mean "pop right out"....

I've found these "little changes" that you are noticing are generally due to input from customers/service and/or supplier changes, usually to correct a problem or resolve a supply issue. Let's hope that trend continues, but yeah, it can be a little disconcerting for sure. Just be sure to download the service manual for YOUR YEAR bike, and you have about an 80% chance of it actually matching what's on your bike.

-SM
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:25 AM   #3224
pyoungbl
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SM, All this points to the NTX being a more significant change than many of us thought. The turn signal situation and different panels is probably due to the 8.5 gal fuel tank and the fact that it does not look much different from the older/smaller fuel tank. That extra volume had to be hidden somewhere. That might explain why the newer wiring harness has the correct plugs for euro turn signals.

Peter Y.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:03 PM   #3225
Mr. B
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They're here...

I just got my mirrors/turn signal kit today. I hope they're as easy to install as you guys say because there are no instructions. I'm going to try mounting them today (right after I check the ground connections on my starter).
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