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Old 04-16-2011, 01:33 PM   #26941
dav_dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Birdo View Post
I think Northern Dog went with gold valves and emulators. I believe he likes the performance of it. I had/have been considering USD but might just go with the emulators.

One thing about fork braces...FYI...

I just got back from awesome riding near Moab. I was coming down some technical rocks and bottomed out the front end. NOT too hard but my front fender hit my RSW fork brace and POPPED off one side and hit the tire. It could have ended in a terrible endo but I luckily stopped early enough. I will be modifying my front fender to accommodate for it.....and carrying an allen key set. We were stranded till a mountain biker rode past.

Otherwise the bike performed EXCELLENTLY through rocks, slickrock and sand dunes. I was really impressed with it in the dunes. I thought I would be picking it up every minute but THE XRL is a sweet do it all bike. The rear tire I chose was the Kenda Trackmaster 2. It was Flawless. Sweet in the sand and ZERO chunking after hitting those rocky trails. I'd buy another Trackmaster 2
so are you getting rid your brace?
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:44 PM   #26942
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dav_dman View Post
thats a good deal, but you'll need to add $500 baja kit to it in order to get it street legal...
That's only if you don't decide to buy just the parts you need separately, which I've heard is a savings over buying the kit.
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:03 PM   #26943
KyoXR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Great info, Birdman.
It amazes me that the front-brace-encouraging people are not aware of this or choose not to acknowlede it. You would think that at least the brace manufacturer would give application info complete to assure a safe installation on a particular bike for which it's designed.

I've always been curious if I could feel a fork brace on my XRL. I know I can feel the difference between the stock brace and a SuperBrace on my street bike.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM;
I also bought & used the Scotts steering damper & on the XRL felt 0 improvement. Removed & sold it. Tried it in all terrains for over 3 months?
Im a "I don't believe it until I see/feel it" kind of guy and bought the RSW fork brace and definitely felt a difference (improvement)-there where no instructions or paper work of any kind but I had read about the brace hitting the fender and trimmed it to accommodate,
I also bought a Scotts steering damper and like it especially the high speed damping...but the price of it for the performance takes a bit of convincing until you realize the high speed damping saves you from a wreck and you just saved a bunch of money in repairs which helps to justify the cost.
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:14 PM   #26944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olderslowerguy View Post
I'm the one that posted that auction....after emailing the seller back and forth a couple of times, and trying to get him to explain how his CDI could possibly work with the L and R using different voltages (AC vs. DC), I came to the conclusion that he didn't know what he was talking about, so
avoided bidding. I see that it sold for 123.00...I just bought one from Xtreme Motorsports for 116.00...

It would actually be easy to build a CDI that would work on +12V or the 600R AC stator output, but I doubt anyone has.

If there was a demand for putting 600R compatable CDIs on XR650Ls I'd start building converters so the 600R one could be run of +12v. Anyone that starts getting too nuts down that path jusy goes out and puts on a megajolt...


Dave
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:18 PM   #26945
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post

Oh, Mike.... that could apply on so many levels....
you know what iam talking bout , couple years ago i had a porsch 911 turbo ,WOW nice car some chp officer had it here in caly ,,any way had it for a couple years and one day at the gas station some lady goes your car is leaking gas from the middle , the problem was the 3 inch long 3/8 dia. hose that cost me 100.00 , one guy told me wait till you buy a distributer cap
I sold the car as fast as i could then got a 2002 jeep TJ
I have her right where she wants me
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:22 PM   #26946
kenny61
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Maier Rear fender


Anybody know what the difference is between the 2???

http://www.maier-mfg.com/catalog/223
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:33 PM   #26947
El Birdo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dav_dman View Post
so are you getting rid your brace?
I believe I am going to keep it. I DO notice a difference esp. on the highway at higher speeds....with all my luggage on the bike used to wobble so much I would get seasick. It might be because of my modified headlight shroud.

AZ TOM....I noticed a HUGE difference in Sandy and whooped up trails with my Scott's Stabilizer...I love mine and wouldn't give it up for anything.

The stock suspension seems to work fine for me as I am only 160-165 lbs
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:35 PM   #26948
aim2kill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
That's only if you don't decide to buy just the parts you need separately, which I've heard is a savings over buying the kit.
you can, i looked at the requirements for IN, and the bike can be done pretty cheap. i was eyeballing alot of honda oem parts too, to make it look sim to the xrl. the number i came up with was ~250, as it relied on ebay parts and they fluctuate greatly.
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:41 PM   #26949
michael.brat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingwombat View Post
I've always wondered about this fork squeeze. It seems like it would put more stress on the forks as they compress. Dunno, I don't remember seeing anything about it in the manual but I don't have it in front of me. That being said, I think I usually squeeze them in a little bit.
Just changed my tires today and noticed that when tightening the front axel bolt (65lbs; Clymer) it tightens up the speedo pick up assembly so it doesn't move. I just butted the fork up against the speedo assembly and tightened down the 4 axel holder bolts (9lbs; Clymer) snug enough where I didn't feel like I would strip them

Is there anything wrong with just butting it up against the speedo ass? Seems to be fine.

Mike B
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:46 PM   #26950
michael.brat
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Swing Arm Chain Slider

Anyone have an recommendations for a cheap chain slider or a fab write up? Mine is done for and I haven't been able to find one for cheaper than $30. Domo.

Also just started doing some simple diy vids. My first test vid
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post15680319

Mike B
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:42 PM   #26951
taco250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.brat View Post
Anyone have an recommendations for a cheap chain slider or a fab write up? Mine is done for and I haven't been able to find one for cheaper than $30. Domo.

Also just started doing some simple diy vids. My first test vid
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post15680319

Mike B
Spud Rider did a mod for this with chain rollers and is pretty pleased with it. Maybe he'll chime in.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:09 PM   #26952
jellyroll
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More gearing talk...

I have 13, 14 and 15 tooth front sprockets and have been running stock in the rear with the 14 in for most of my riding. Its about the minimum I can handle on the highway and not nearly low enough offroad. I'm about to go with a 48 rear and was thinking of going with 112 links on the new chain. I'm hoping that this would give me enough slack to go back up to 15/48 for any extended highway stints, effectively giving me the 14/45 ratio that I'm at now.

I'm also hoping that it will still allow me to go down to 13 up front at the long end of the adjusters.

Whattayathink?
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:58 PM   #26953
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jellyroll View Post
I have 13, 14 and 15 tooth front sprockets and have been running stock in the rear with the 14 in for most of my riding. Its about the minimum I can handle on the highway and not nearly low enough offroad. I'm about to go with a 48 rear and was thinking of going with 112 links on the new chain. I'm hoping that this would give me enough slack to go back up to 15/48 for any extended highway stints, effectively giving me the 14/45 ratio that I'm at now.

I'm also hoping that it will still allow me to go down to 13 up front at the long end of the adjusters.

Whattayathink?
I was running my 13T/45T sprocket combination with a new, unstretched, 110-link drive chain, and I was near the end of the chain adjustment. You might be able to get a 112-link drive chain to work with a 13T/48T sprocket combination, but you will be at the very end of the adjustment range. Based upon my experience, I wouldn't recommend you do it. Even if you get a new chain to fit, I fear the chain won't fit after it stretches a little.

Because of the limited adjustment range, I shortened my drive chain to 108-links to better accommodate my 13T/45T sprocket combination.

Spud
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:06 PM   #26954
Spud Rider
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n
Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250 View Post
Spud Rider did a mod for this with chain rollers and is pretty pleased with it. Maybe he'll chime in.
I installed a chain roller for the "chain slipper," and I installed two chain rollers in the chain guide. However, I bought an MSR chain slider to replace the swingarm slider when it wears out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667646

Spud
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:37 PM   #26955
Cloud9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingwombat View Post
I've always wondered about this fork squeeze. It seems like it would put more stress on the forks as they compress. Dunno, I don't remember seeing anything about it in the manual but I don't have it in front of me. That being said, I think I usually squeeze them in a little bit.
DO NOT squeeze the forks together even a little bit. This is bad for sticksion (spl), wear, and handling.

If I recall correctly, I have USD on my bike now, when tighening the front axle to the left fork (sitting on the bike) the axle tightens against the speedo gear to keep it from moving. The AXLE does this, not the forks. (someone correct me if this is wrong)

BEFORE tightening the four 10mm fork axle nuts on the right side, hold the front brake and if you have a friend around have them help you compress the forks as much as possible and then release. Do this a time or two. MAKE SURE the right side fork (sitting on the bike) floats to it's natural relaxed postion on the front axle (a very thin layer of grease on the axle will help). THEN tighten the four 10mm axle nuts without moving the forks from their natural postion.

For your forks to perform at their best they need to be true to the triple clamp center lines and the wheel center line. All these things need to be lined up correctly or your front suspension will perform poorly and increase maintenance.

Cloud9 screwed with this post 04-18-2011 at 06:39 AM
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