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Old 09-02-2011, 03:42 PM   #32236
Ben99r1
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Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
Might change your fork oil, maybe previous owner put some heavy weight oil in. Most folks complain that the forks are way too soft on the L's
Even maybe they installed after market springs. If you need stock oem springs let me know. I have some just sitting in the garage.
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:04 PM   #32237
Cigar Mike
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My Camping gear.

I had a chance to work on making the additional add on rack that attaches to the main rear rack so that I can load the ATV bag. The add on rack attaches using two 1/2" bolts and a couple of hose clamps. I won't show much detail of the rack because no one really gives a shit anyway. I still don't know if I am really going to like camping off the bike after so many years riding using the travel trailer as our base. With this being the case I did not want to spend a lot of money. Many riders seem to really like the giant loop bag and the ATV bag is similar. Since I already have soft saddle bags the $41 ATV bag seemed like a cheap way to get all of the stuff on the bike for camping without to much cash. You know fixed income retired old fart.

Here is what I have come up with so far. I haven't painted it yet because I am not sure I am done messing with it. the bag is 32" wide which is about the same width as the saddle gags when stuffed. The only really heavy item in the bag is the tent which is about 6 lbs.


I don't plan on using the gas cans very often but wanted to be able to carry extra fuel. the XT Cathy rides has about a 250 mile range but the L with a 4 gallon is only good for between 180 to 200 miles. But that is with a lighter load. We hope to do the CDT and the TAT from Colorado to the West. I have read that I don't have enough range for a section or two.


I am going to give this a test in about a week when we are in Utah.

Mike
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:11 PM   #32238
pngaudioguy
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I like the military surplus canteen. Those things suck when you're doing low crawls. Never stay put on the web belt right... you don't need those kidneys, do you?

Like the design. Can't wait to hear your report on how it performs. Definitely a bit wider rack than I'd want for daily use, but then I think any kind of side bags / panniers are too wide, as well.
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:28 PM   #32239
Cigar Mike
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Originally Posted by pngaudioguy View Post
I like the military surplus canteen. Those things suck when you're doing low crawls. Never stay put on the web belt right... you don't need those kidneys, do you?

Like the design. Can't wait to hear your report on how it performs. Definitely a bit wider rack than I'd want for daily use, but then I think any kind of side bags / panniers are too wide, as well.
I have carried the canteens on a belt when using the dirt bike. I think after one time I decided there was a better way. The strap I used for the add on rack was just right to hook the canteens on the front of the rack. I figured I would carry it for back up and cooking if I use up the 100oz camel back I carry in my flight vest.

This is the rack before I add the additional attachment for the ATV bag. I usually run the saddle bags but pack them differently for day trips.


Mike
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:31 PM   #32240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
THATS EXACTLY WHAT YOU DONT WANT TO DO!

the reason is the same as why you dont pressure wash with HOT WATER or hot water at all..

heat aids in corrosion and what you think you are doing is actually worse..

Im a sailor and have had my fair share of wood boats, fiberglass, steel and have worked on numerous marine environments...

logic is sometimes a double edged sword.,

Next time...dry it off manually with a towel, then spray with wd40 or some other "protectant"

heat and water kill, add salt and you have death...

cheers

christian
Really? Why does heat aid in corrosion? My thinking is evaporate the water so that it does not begin to rust the steel...maybe that's wrong?

I've had the opposite experience with guns in my backroom - leave the heat down and chilly, rust develops on the barrel of my old .22. Turn the heat up and get it nice and toasty, no more rust. Don't know....
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:13 AM   #32241
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Temperature plays an important role in atmospheric corrosion in two ways. First, there is the normal increase in corrosion activity which can theoretically double for each ten-degree increase in temperature. Secondly, a little-recognized effect is the temperature lag of metallic objects, due to their heat capacity, behind changes in the ambient temperature.

As the ambient temperature drops during the evening, metallic surfaces tend to remain warmer than the humid air surrounding them and do not begin to collect condensation until some time after the dew point has been reached. As the temperature begins to rise in the surrounding air, the lagging temperature of the metal structures will tend to make them act as condensers, maintaining a film of moisture on their surfaces.

The period of wetness is often much longer than the time the ambient air is at or below the dew point and varies with the section thickness of the metal structure, air currents, RH, and direct radiation from the sun
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Old 09-03-2011, 10:22 AM   #32242
Barron
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Shinko Trail Master

So I have been having an odd vibration coming from the front wheel of my bike. Since I put new tires on my bike right before I went on a deployment I thought that they might have had a flat spot so I gave it a look with the front wheel off the ground spinning the tire looking at a mark on the ground compared to the outermost center of the tread as the wheel rotated. Sure enough there was a low spot. I figured that if I rode it and kept it warm and off the ground it would fix it's self but today I found out the real problem. It wasn't a flat spot, the tire was made wrong. I was looking at the side wall to make sure the tire was on the rim properly after getting nitrogen put in and noticed that it looked like the bead was not seated, so I aired it up but it didn't seat. I aired it down pushed it off the rim took some measurements and determined it was definitely molded incorrectly.

On another note, if anybody near Va beach wants the front tire, it's got low miles and would be great for low speed trails. Shoot me a pm if interested, pick it up and it's yours.

-Barron
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:37 PM   #32243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bm3moose View Post
Temperature plays an important role in atmospheric corrosion in two ways. First, there is the normal increase in corrosion activity which can theoretically double for each ten-degree increase in temperature. Secondly, a little-recognized effect is the temperature lag of metallic objects, due to their heat capacity, behind changes in the ambient temperature.

As the ambient temperature drops during the evening, metallic surfaces tend to remain warmer than the humid air surrounding them and do not begin to collect condensation until some time after the dew point has been reached. As the temperature begins to rise in the surrounding air, the lagging temperature of the metal structures will tend to make them act as condensers, maintaining a film of moisture on their surfaces.

The period of wetness is often much longer than the time the ambient air is at or below the dew point and varies with the section thickness of the metal structure, air currents, RH, and direct radiation from the sun
Thanks.
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:24 PM   #32244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bm3moose View Post
Temperature plays an important role in atmospheric corrosion in two ways. First, there is the normal increase in corrosion activity which can theoretically double for each ten-degree increase in temperature. Secondly, a little-recognized effect is the temperature lag of metallic objects, due to their heat capacity, behind changes in the ambient temperature.

As the ambient temperature drops during the evening, metallic surfaces tend to remain warmer than the humid air surrounding them and do not begin to collect condensation until some time after the dew point has been reached. As the temperature begins to rise in the surrounding air, the lagging temperature of the metal structures will tend to make them act as condensers, maintaining a film of moisture on their surfaces.

The period of wetness is often much longer than the time the ambient air is at or below the dew point and varies with the section thickness of the metal structure, air currents, RH, and direct radiation from the sun
very well put

in laymans terms you d not want to add heat in a corrosive environment...dont ask why just dont, then about your guns, the reason they rust is because you leave them in a DAMP wet environment where HUMIDITY does more damage than temperature or any other factor.

It wa just a little advice, the only reason I mentioned it is because I deal with it on my boats! jaja

cheers
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:43 PM   #32245
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I'm not that smart, found that online. Just did Dave's Mods. Thanks for the info forum gods. I may be doing some different jetting, still seems to backfire a little.
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:58 PM   #32246
1Bonehead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
very well put

in laymans terms you d not want to add heat in a corrosive environment...dont ask why just dont, then about your guns, the reason they rust is because you leave them in a DAMP wet environment where HUMIDITY does more damage than temperature or any other factor.

It wa just a little advice, the only reason I mentioned it is because I deal with it on my boats! jaja

cheers
Polymer frame and stainless slide, barrel and guts. Done deal.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:28 PM   #32247
mendoteach
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subframe braces

I have a friend who has a 60,000 psi water jet that will cut through damn near anything. I was thinking of making some sub frame braces for myself and a few buddies, then I thought I would gauge interest and go into a low profit, pain in the ass business (like others here) that will inevitably bring on a large lawsuit. But in the meantime, it will allow me to make enough money each week to buy two bottles of craft beer If your interested shoot me a PM and I'll see if I get enough interest to give it a go. If you have any other projects that can use this type of cutter let me know and I'll see what I can do!
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:06 PM   #32248
esjinslc
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My XRL with Mods

Before



During



After



In The Dirt



And A Night Out

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Old 09-04-2011, 07:43 AM   #32249
elsalvadorklr
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Originally Posted by boothdoc View Post
Polymer frame and stainless slide, barrel and guts. Done deal.
im not a gun guy, but that sounds killer, wink wink...

cheers
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:33 AM   #32250
Roll_n
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After
I can't believe you blacked out the sweet, sweet purple.


I keed, I keed. Great looking ride. I just went the other way, tank-wise. Bought mine w/ the Acerbis supertanker on it, and got the stocker too in the deal. Put the stocker (& fins!) back on- like the smaller feel, though I hit reserve ~83 mi versus ~230. good enough for riding to work & whatnot around here, can put it back on if I need to...
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