XRL owners sign in. - Page 2420

techforlife · 01-03-2012, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Streaks

Well I think I found the source of the ticking, I checked the valves, intake seems ok, both exhaust valves were tight. Ill have to see tomorrow if crappy Cycle Gear sells the feelers. Man I hope I didnt wreck the motor

Cool,like i said on ThumperTalk..........what do i win

Valves are pretty tough,should be alright..

B

jgas · 01-03-2012, 05:35 PM

I'm looking at an 07 650 L, I know the compression is fairly low compared to the old 600, and I've been looking for solid info on it. I've read in various places that it is 8.5-10.5 for the L. Did they change it over the years? Or is it possible that they vary by country?

I recently rode a modded DRZ 470, and it ran like a scalded redneck on steriods, but when it was hot the starter/battery would barely crank it. I have a DRZ 400 and was considering a big bore kit, but I want total reliability and don't think a built DRZ will be that. I raced XR 600s from 92-99 and loved them.

My thinking is that a 650L with only hot cams and high compression piston would be bulletproof and quite a bit more powerful than any DRZ-anything? I've considered just going nuts with a KTM 950 Superenduro, but 400+ lbs loaded with camping gear just might be a bit much. And I looked at one recently, working on it didn't seem too fun of an idea. They put a big block twin in a little bitty frame. Fixing that monster on the trail might just be beyone me.

Thank you guys for this thread. I've been lurking here quite a while.

Jeff.

techforlife · 01-03-2012, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgas

I'm looking at an 07 650 L, I know the compression is fairly low compared to the old 600, and I've been looking for solid info on it. I've read in various places that it is 8.5-10.5 for the L. Did they change it over the years? Or is it possible that they vary by country?

I recently rode a modded DRZ 470, and it ran like a scalded redneck on steriods, but when it was hot the starter/battery would barely crank it. I have a DRZ 400 and was considering a big bore kit, but I want total reliability and don't think a built DRZ will be that. I raced XR 600s from 92-99 and loved them.

My thinking is that a 650L with only hot cams and high compression piston would be bulletproof and quite a bit more powerful than any DRZ-anything? I've considered just going nuts with a KTM 950 Superenduro, but 400+ lbs loaded with camping gear just might be a bit much. And I looked at one recently, working on it didn't seem too fun of an idea. They put a big block twin in a little bitty frame. Fixing that monster on the trail might just be beyone me.

Thank you guys for this thread. I've been lurking here quite a while.

Jeff.

OE piston is low compression 8.5 or lower........8.3-1 i think..all years....unless modified by owner..

Bump the comp to 10.5-1 and get a decent cam......and no..a Hotcam is NOT a decent cam,it has fried a pile of XR650l top ends..

It seems it`s a hit/miss thing in these engines,,,some are user error not setting the lash to HotCam specs,,,some appear to just eat the rockers for no apparent reason...

As Steve says ... "YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED"

Oh,i was riding with a guy with a modded DRZ last summer.....nice bike,,but not getting anywhere near me with a modified XR650L..

not even close...

B

Streaks · 01-03-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by techforlife

Cool,like i said on ThumperTalk..........what do i win

Valves are pretty tough,should be alright..

B

If you were closer, BEER

techforlife · 01-03-2012, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Streaks

If you were closer, BEER

NOW YOUR TALKIN

B

agspecialties · 01-03-2012, 05:52 PM

I tried the pinesol trick cleaning the carb. It worked great. When i was done, i left the pinesol in the bucket. I can't believe how it seperated and got all gummy.

If you clean your carb, don't let it sit in there to long. That would be a mess to clean.

techforlife · 01-03-2012, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agspecialties

I tried the pinesol trick cleaning the carb. It worked great. When i was done, i left the pinesol in the bucket. I can't believe how it seperated and got all gummy.

If you clean your carb, don't let it sit in there to long. That would be a mess to clean.

Hmmmm,,that`s good to know..

B

agspecialties · 01-03-2012, 05:58 PM

I figured out that it started to break down and seperate around the third day or fourth day.

katbeanz · 01-03-2012, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgas

Thank you guys for this thread. I've been lurking here quite a while.
Jeff.

Jeffro!

beechum1 · 01-03-2012, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bm3moose

Mine is doing the same thing, backfires on decel pretty bad and then dies all the time at idle, conveniently at stop signs and green lights. I'm going to try the pilot screw but would valves do this as well?

Could be a dirty pilot jet also.

Sent from my LG-P509 using Tapatalk

flyingwombat · 01-03-2012, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grover6

Fellas,

I recently picked up a front end off a cfr250 (Thanks Marko!).

One thing I need is to retain the mounting points on the stock upper triple. So I am curious, can the OEM triples be machined out to accept the larger forks from the crf, without impacting the structural integrity of the triple?

This would save alot of hassle. If not I may have to put out the money on the Emig racing setup.

Thanks

Personally, I think you'd be nuts to modify the triples, just because that's a critical part. If it fails, it's a faceplant.

flyingwombat · 01-03-2012, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agspecialties

Anyone using Highway Dirt Bikes folding morrors and barkbusters?? Are they worth the money?

The mirrors are decent and the bash guards are the best there is. I crash tested the hell out of them in Moab and I don't think they are even bent. The top clamp with switches and powerlet outlets is sweet also. Worth the money? I guess that depends if you ride it like a dirtbike a lot and/or want switches and outlets without doing fab work. It made a bit more sense for me since my L didn't come with mirrors.

farrington300 · 01-03-2012, 09:22 PM

Hey Guys,
I stripped out one of the two 10mm bolts that hold the valve cover on. Its the front right one. It goes through the valve cover, the head, and into the jug. Is there a way to repair it (helicoil, etc.) with out disassembling the motor. I have put in helicoils, but never into a hole that is 4-5 inches deep. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

michael.brat · 01-03-2012, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

I fabbed my own as well. I went "full wrap" to make it look less like a patch.

Wanna make some more for us?

I'll take one!!

Mike B

beechum1 · 01-03-2012, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farrington300

Hey Guys,
I stripped out one of the two 10mm bolts that hold the valve cover on. Its the front right one. It goes through the valve cover, the head, and into the jug. Is there a way to repair it (helicoil, etc.) with out disassembling the motor. I have put in helicoils, but never into a hole that is 4-5 inches deep. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Pull the motor, and cover the piston. Or pull the part. Only two options.

01-03-2012, 05:35 PM	#36287
jgas Stoogely Adventurerer Joined: Nov 2006 Oddometer: 794	XRL compression? I'm looking at an 07 650 L, I know the compression is fairly low compared to the old 600, and I've been looking for solid info on it. I've read in various places that it is 8.5-10.5 for the L. Did they change it over the years? Or is it possible that they vary by country? I recently rode a modded DRZ 470, and it ran like a scalded redneck on steriods, but when it was hot the starter/battery would barely crank it. I have a DRZ 400 and was considering a big bore kit, but I want total reliability and don't think a built DRZ will be that. I raced XR 600s from 92-99 and loved them. My thinking is that a 650L with only hot cams and high compression piston would be bulletproof and quite a bit more powerful than any DRZ-anything? I've considered just going nuts with a KTM 950 Superenduro, but 400+ lbs loaded with camping gear just might be a bit much. And I looked at one recently, working on it didn't seem too fun of an idea. They put a big block twin in a little bitty frame. Fixing that monster on the trail might just be beyone me. Thank you guys for this thread. I've been lurking here quite a while. Jeff. __________________ jgas Question of the century: "When the little Singletrack remaining is gone, and we can't ride on the existing Two-track, will you be nhappy riding only on a few dirt roads and pavement? If not, what are you going to do about it"? Certified JB Welder. Certified 3M Duct Tape installer. Certified Farmer's Co-Op bailing wire expert. Graduate of the "Rock on the side of the Trail as a Hammer" school of motorcycle repair. 02 KTM 520 exc DRZ 400 95 XR 250 2001 KLR 650

01-03-2012, 09:22 PM	#36298
farrington300 No wait....What? Joined: Sep 2009 Location: vista CA Oddometer: 448	Hey Guys, I stripped out one of the two 10mm bolts that hold the valve cover on. Its the front right one. It goes through the valve cover, the head, and into the jug. Is there a way to repair it (helicoil, etc.) with out disassembling the motor. I have put in helicoils, but never into a hole that is 4-5 inches deep. Any help would be greatly appreciated. __________________ KLR685 XR650L TE610

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01-03-2012, 05:52 PM	#36291
agspecialties Beastly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2009 Location: Norfolk, NE Oddometer: 1,028	I tried the pinesol trick cleaning the carb. It worked great. When i was done, i left the pinesol in the bucket. I can't believe how it seperated and got all gummy. If you clean your carb, don't let it sit in there to long. That would be a mess to clean.

01-03-2012, 05:58 PM	#36293
agspecialties Beastly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2009 Location: Norfolk, NE Oddometer: 1,028	I figured out that it started to break down and seperate around the third day or fourth day.