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Old 04-05-2012, 06:46 PM   #41026
Wattner
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Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Treasure Coast, Florida
Oddometer: 4,941
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
Once I get it to the finished stage I'll be able to probe the head and mass produce them in one of my Mini Mills.

The head will have deeper pockets where the cam lobes are so they will be bathed in oil.
And.... Roller rockers????

Now, we just need a super duty oil pump, a larger feed line to the head and some high RPM testing to monitor oil flow and pressure....

Getting the oiling and rocker rollers, in my opinion will finish this out into a really long, long life motor.

Still gonna do my best to blow the shit out of them!!!!!
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:48 PM   #41027
elsalvadorklr
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 4,076
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Do you know what spark plug he was running?
I have been riding my XR to work for a couple of weeks now.
Just to see what would happen I changed to the 9 heat range NGK and the engine runs a lot stronger on the highway and after the highway blast at 75 to 80 MPH ( thats about 10 miles long ) it now has a very uniform idel that it did not have running an 8 heat range plug on the highway.
HUMMMMMMMMM! Wondering if the hoter plug ( the 8 ) is causing pre ingition?



hey fritzco...

The manual clearly states to USE a 9range plug for prolonged high speed use, to counter these exact issues....

if your commuting everyday at "highspeed" its our obligation to at least change to this plug.

I have been told too that if you only ride slow tough singletrack a 7 range plug is good to prevent too much fouling...

???????? anybody else?

cheers
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:00 PM   #41028
HOFNAR
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Location: Placer County
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What does this mean?

While coming to a stop and downshifting, I will sometimes miss Neutral and downshift all the way to 1st gear. When I come to a complete stop and try to shift to Neutral from 1st, the bike doesn't want to cooperate. Is this a sign of anything? What should I be saving money for? Thanks for any input.

Jesse
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:03 PM   #41029
junkyardroad
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLICKIT View Post
I've experienced much the same thing, it had me worried for a while...

I've recently done a rebuild and noticed a ticking when I first started it back up, it wasn't a loud or bad sounding tick, just not what I would consider normal with the valves adjusted right... It wasn't the normal noise the decompressor makes when cold (my decompressor has always been bit rattly when cold, I think it's normal)... I re-check the oil flow and valve clearances, they were fine...

After taking it for a decent ride the tick went away and hasn't returned.... I've since done 500km without an issue... I'm still not sure what caused the tick...

The decompressor operation you describe with the snap is the same as what I observed... I "believe" it's normal...
Thanks for the reply, I figured I can't have been the only one with this happening.

I did adust it before and after. Maybe I missed it.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:05 PM   #41030
AZ TOM
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Location: Prescott AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOFNAR View Post
While coming to a stop and downshifting, I will sometimes miss Neutral and downshift all the way to 1st gear. When I come to a complete stop and try to shift to Neutral from 1st, the bike doesn't want to cooperate. Is this a sign of anything? What should I be saving money for? Thanks for any input.

Jesse
Adjust the free play in your clutch cable. If not, new clutch pak, springs , plates & disks. Easy fix.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:13 PM   #41031
elsalvadorklr
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Location: el salvador
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOFNAR View Post
While coming to a stop and downshifting, I will sometimes miss Neutral and downshift all the way to 1st gear. When I come to a complete stop and try to shift to Neutral from 1st, the bike doesn't want to cooperate. Is this a sign of anything? What should I be saving money for? Thanks for any input.

Jesse
when the last time you changed the oil or check the condition of it?

the first thing I notice after changing oil is how buttery smooth and precise each gearshift is...

also whenever I get false neutrals or have notchy gear shifts I plan on doing an oil change...

clutch adjust helps too...

good luck
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #41032
junkyardroad
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 114
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
This is normal with the higher lift cam and the stiffer valve springs.
The cam has more ramp angle than the stock oem sowing machine one
It will lighten up once the cam and rockers are broken in.
The specs for the valve clearance are .004 int.....004 ex.......
That snapping sound you hear is the auto-comp, with the heavy valve springs it makes the noise more distinct then with the lighter springs.
If you want the sowing machine sound I will have to grind you a different cam, you can send it back to me and I will exchange it for you with a cam with slower ramp angles.
Thanks, I appreciate the support. I'll put it back together and set the valves again and go for it. I have a eye surgery week from tomorrow and a hell of a lot of work to finish up before they butcher my face.

So I'm clear, I rotate slowly until the click, then immediately set the valve to .004.

Then run to the 46 coupe to complete the dash wiring so I can fire it up for the first time.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:24 PM   #41033
Spud Rider
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Location: Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Not that cheap Fritz........i know your idea of "cheap"

















B


Spud
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:31 PM   #41034
Lonestar2112
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Location: Ventura County CA
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Like I said earlier I am a chain Uber n00b. What is the difference between the 500, 520, 525 etc? Or I guess a better question is what chain do I need and what kind master link? Obviously that will dictate what kind of masterlink tool that I need.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:42 PM   #41035
mcma111
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Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOFNAR View Post
While coming to a stop and downshifting, I will sometimes miss Neutral and downshift all the way to 1st gear. When I come to a complete stop and try to shift to Neutral from 1st, the bike doesn't want to cooperate. Is this a sign of anything? What should I be saving money for? Thanks for any input.

Jesse

Time for a new clutch. BTDT.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:58 PM   #41036
flyingwombat
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Nederland, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
Do you want to try one on your new motor?
Mikey is going to post the chamber in the welding stage and when I get the finished milling done we'll post the finished product..
Yup I sure do want to try one!
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:15 PM   #41037
FLICKIT
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Down-under Down-under
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Time for a new clutch. BTDT.
Also... If the clutch plates have worn into the basket, file the indentations out...

My clutch never felt right, it never fully disengaged, it was always grabbing a bit, even though the previous owner put new plates in it...

When I pulled it apart I found the steel and fiber plates were as good as new but there was decent indentations in the basket:
(they were fairly deep even though they dont look it in the photo)

(I assume the indentations hindered the plates separating as they should)

I de-greased it and sealed up the back with duct tape so I wouldn't have to clean all the specs of aluminum out of the springs later:


Filed the indentations out:


The clutch feels great now :)

FLICKIT screwed with this post 04-05-2012 at 08:35 PM
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:29 PM   #41038
Barron
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
Oddometer: 2,220
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
All areas of the piston do not expand the same, the top of the piston runs the hottest so it expands the most. The skirt runs the coolest so it expands the least. For this reason the diameter at top of the piston will normally be smaller, and the diameter at the bottom of the skirt will normally be a little larger, than the diameter at the top of the skirt. Also, the piston does not expand the same all the way around its circumference. The diameter measured across the piston pin will expand more than the diameter-measured perpendicular to the piston pin. Therefore, the piston is “cam ground”, or made slightly oval, with the smaller diameter measured across the piston pin. When the piston heats up to operating temperature it will then be round. If the piston were not cam ground, the piston to cylinder wall clearance would have to be extremely high when the engine was cold to allow for expansion, and it would not be round when at operating temperature. That's why I always add two more tenths to the clearance on the air cooled motors, I'm starting to think that JE is not grinding the proper cam into some of their pistons or there not checking their tooling or programmers work often enough.....shit happens....

But if you only have suffing on the intake side then that's not the case, it's usualy an air leak that suffs the intake side and poor oiling that causes it. An oil cooler is a great tool for keeping temps down in the normal range but add a Big finned head to that in cooler tempetures at extended highway speeds and your oil is not reaching the proper temps to fully lube and expand the piston..
Thick oil is a no no with the XR motors, I only run 10/40 oil for this reason.
Heavy oil only hurts your motor and robs you of HP..


If you have suffing on both sides it would be a matter of how much cam was ground into the slug and a clearance issue.. On my big bore pistons I manufacture I grind more cam into them so you can run .0025 clearance and still keep a tight piston to wall clearance for a longer life motor and better sealing.

On a JE slug they recommend .003 but with experience I've found that .0032 works better on a air cooled XR motor.
I hear you loud and clear ... I'm gonna put the air box back on, in prep for my "back to OEM build" (out side the engine anyway...) cause in addition to the intake leaking my air filter may not have been the best. I don't see any holes in it and I took care of it, but it doesn't take much and I want the engine better protected... I'm pulling the cooler too...

-Barron
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:37 PM   #41039
elsalvadorklr
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 4,076
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLICKIT View Post
Also... If the clutch plates have worn into the basket, file the indentations out...

My clutch never felt right, it never fully disengaged, it was always grabbing a bit, even though the previous owner put new plates in it...

When I pulled it apart I found the steel and fiber plates were as good as new but there was decent indentations in the basket:
(they were fairly deep even though they dont look it in the photo)

(I assume the indentations hindered the plates separating as they should)

I de-greased it and sealed up the back with duct tape so I wouldn't have to clean all the specs of aluminum out of the springs later:


Filed the indentations out:


The clutch feels great now :)
this is very good info...

if you wheelie a lot or hammer the engine on the street this is probably what you have going on too...

i did this on my xr...shifting is butter, sill has the oem clutch pack...24 years old

cheers
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:32 PM   #41040
purpledrake
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Seattle-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
this is very good info...

if you wheelie a lot or hammer the engine on the street this is probably what you have going on too...

i did this on my xr...shifting is butter, sill has the oem clutch pack...24 years old

cheers
You guys are great. I have no idea WTH you are talking about, but it sure is fun to read these threads. Duct tape on clutch plates, &c. This is more interesting than TV!
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