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Old 05-12-2012, 09:17 AM   #42316
onaXR OP
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BTW, I am back, the stable has a XRL in it again.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:15 AM   #42317
mcma111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR View Post
BTW, I am back, the stable has a XRL in it again.

Welcome back. Enjoy the stay.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:19 AM   #42318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR View Post
BTW, I am back, the stable has a XRL in it again.
Welcome back.

Spud
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:31 AM   #42319
Lexey63
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:29 AM   #42320
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR View Post
BTW, I am back, the stable has a XRL in it again.
Didn't notice you were gone
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:53 AM   #42321
mendoteach
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[QUOTE=onaXR;18671075]BTW, I am back, the stable has a XRL in it again.
[/QUOTE

Look what you started! Don't bail on us again
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:02 PM   #42322
onaXR OP
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[QUOTE=mendoteach;18671766]
Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR View Post
BTW, I am back, the stable has a XRL in it again.
[/QUOTE

Look what you started! Don't bail on us again
Prolly wont, I have missed the red piggy.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:12 PM   #42323
beechum1
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Location: Herlong, CA. Look it up, I'll wait.
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No flat tire this time?
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:11 PM   #42324
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Put a tool tube on the skidplate yesterday, tested it out on a ride today, complete with lay down in a moss covered water crossing a couple inches deep. Seems to work fine. I'm not sure I'm happy with the mounting system though. I used three of those hose clamps that tighten when you tighten a screw, and simply ran them through the holes in the front of the XRs Only skidplate. They're kinda ugly and I'm not sure how sturdy they really are.



3" black ABS pipe. One end is just a glued on cap, the opening end is something called a test check valve or something similar. As you tighten down the red/pink part it expands a rubber piece inside the tube and seals it. Seems water tight, and seems like it will stay in pretty well until you loosen it. The whole assembly is a little wider than the skidplate, but not nearly as wide as the pegs/pedals. Great for all the wrenches and pliers and such, but not enough room for a patch kit or spare tubes.


Also, I think my chain is about done. Halfway through the ride this morning it was way too slack, so I took it up a couple notches to 27 on the stock snails. Checked it again 10 miles later and it was way slack again. Looking on XRs only, I am planning on

RK 520 chain 110 link -
http://www.xrsonly.com/dirt-bike-par...g-520xso-chain

I need 110 links right? This will go right on with no removing of links needed?

PBI Aluminum rear sprocket 45 tooth -
http://www.xrsonly.com/dirt-bike-par...r-91-up-xr650l

With this back sprocket, is the aluminum any weaker/more likely to wear than the steel? I'd read the aluminum is good because it's lighter, and so less unsprung/rotational mass, but didn't know if the steel would get me more strength and longer life.

PBI front sprocket 15 tooth -
http://www.xrsonly.com/dirt-bike-par...r-91-up-xr650l

With this front sprocket, it says it fits the 600R as well as the 650L. Is this the wider 600R countershaft sprocket that I need to install to keep from getting spline wear? Also I figure I'll stick with the stock number of teeth front and back.

Do I need to get something to protect the rear sprocket? I have a shark fin for the brake side, but don't see anything to guard the rear sprocket on XRsonly.


Thanks in advance for the answers. This picture doesn't show it very well, but San Diego is visible in the background here

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Old 05-12-2012, 01:24 PM   #42325
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After searching around and reading through sprocket discussions, I'm wondering if I should go to a 14t front sprocket. How much will I lose off the top end if I do that? I can hit 85 easily right now with a little left, which is faster than I need to go, so I'm thinking maybe it'll be worth losing some to get more low end. It's not 1st I'm worried about, but 2nd is high enough right now that it's hard to do much in 2nd without lugging pretty badly, even when 1st is a bit too slow.

Will going to a 14t mean I need a shorter chain? Or still 110?
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:31 PM   #42326
mcma111
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Sprocket

BP,

Get a steel rear sprocket. An aluminum rear on the XRL will NOT last very long. And if your worried that a steel sprocket weighs much more than the steel DON'T. Is is a non issue.
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BMW's
58 R26
79 R100s
91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:13 PM   #42327
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Richloam area Ride

Some photos from recent rides in the Richloam area of the the Withlacoochee State forest















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Old 05-12-2012, 02:22 PM   #42328
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp_josh View Post
Put a tool tube on the skidplate yesterday, tested it out on a ride today, complete with lay down in a moss covered water crossing a couple inches deep. Seems to work fine. I'm not sure I'm happy with the mounting system though. I used three of those hose clamps that tighten when you tighten a screw, and simply ran them through the holes in the front of the XRs Only skidplate. They're kinda ugly and I'm not sure how sturdy they really are.



3" black ABS pipe. One end is just a glued on cap, the opening end is something called a test check valve or something similar. As you tighten down the red/pink part it expands a rubber piece inside the tube and seals it. Seems water tight, and seems like it will stay in pretty well until you loosen it. The whole assembly is a little wider than the skidplate, but not nearly as wide as the pegs/pedals. Great for all the wrenches and pliers and such, but not enough room for a patch kit or spare tubes.

Looks to me like the clamps are holding up better than the plastic tube. Seriously those clamps are pretty strong. I doubt you will have a problem. Plus it is easy enough to carry a couple spares.

Walter
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:13 PM   #42329
1Bonehead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Bonehead View Post
OK, so now I am starting to wonder alot here WTF is going on.
I htink I am missing the problem. This all started with my son running his 1995 w/11500miles bike low on oil ( he had about 1/4 quartd in the thing). It still ran but was really ticking. We took the motor out and sent it to CW. I do not know what looked bad yet. I need to talk with CW. about that.

Meanwhile I took my motor out of my 93 w/8500miles. H erode it to school for a few weeks. Everything ws good. Then it started to make a ticking noise again that was rather loud. Obviously coming from the valve area. OK we said. it must be the valves needs adjusting. Not having done that on these bikes I made sure we had all the information and tools required then we did the adjusting. Sounded much better. Great.
That lasted about a week or 200miles. Now the ticking is back and louder. I have readjusted the valves. The ticking is still there.

The two things that are the same with both motors is the frame and oil lines and my son. I am wondering about an oiling issue to the valve train? is it riding style? He is new to riding.

Ideas? Thoughts?

Pinched the lower tube going into the motor-

Damage report-
Cam
Rockers
Head-center cam journel is bad now

Cost for lesson is not going to be priceless. BOOHOO
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:16 PM   #42330
FLICKIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattner View Post
... ... ....is there a chance you may have the banjo bolts reversed on the oil lines? I believe the bolt with the bigger holes goes on the bottom ... .... ...
Glad I noticed this post, I had them around the other way, I didn't realize they were different!

Thanks
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