ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-12-2012, 12:50 PM   #48916
XR650L_Dave
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Near Cortland NY
Oddometer: 3,665
For not wadding the chain up should it jump off the rear sprocket or break, should the countershaft chain guard be as close as possible from the sprocket, as far as possible, is there some optimum in-between?
__________________
---->>Thanks for the rotor, guys!<<----
XR650L_Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 12:54 PM   #48917
ThumpnRed
Pig Wrangler
 
ThumpnRed's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
For not wadding the chain up should it jump off the rear sprocket or break, should the countershaft chain guard be as close as possible from the sprocket, as far as possible, is there some optimum in-between?
I would say cLose... You dont want enough space for the chain to get wadded up in between the case saver and the sprocket.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
ThumpnRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 01:31 PM   #48918
bwalsh
Beastly Adventurer
 
bwalsh's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Hell town
Oddometer: 10,620
Just got new steering stem bearings installed...

Does anyone have a slick way to snug up the steering stem to the proper preload setting of 1.1-1.6 kg(2.4-3.5flbs)? I need to snug it down so I can continue to put my 04 back together. I can probably wing it but if I can get it presice then so much the better.


On another note, I remember reading (here?) someone mentioned using PVC pipe as a steering stem bearing driver instead of buying some over priced tool.
I just got finished changing steering stem bearings. I used a hammer and chisel to remove the lower bearing like these guys did.

http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-5-repla...head-bearings/

Piece of cake!

I used an old Carlisle canoe paddle blade I found at work to drive the lower bearing into position! A perfect(snug) fit around the stem and the same diameter as the inner race(so it wasn't bending the bearing cage).

Took the stem/lower Triple Clamp out of the freezer, placed the grease seal and bearing on the stem and placed the paddle blade onto the stem,, against the bearing. Turned the whole thing upside down and about ten easy taps later, on a piece of wood on the bottom of the stem and the bearing was home!
I didn't think to take any pics as I was doing this but this is what I'm talking about...

The paddle blade shaft...







You know what they say about one mans junk!
__________________
2004 XR650L / 2001 R1150GS
NWVA TAG NWVA TAG MAP RTE THREAD & IN LIST



bwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 02:01 PM   #48919
XR650L_Dave
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Near Cortland NY
Oddometer: 3,665
You said 'Shaft', and 'Junk', uh-huh-huh-huh-huh-huh
__________________
---->>Thanks for the rotor, guys!<<----
XR650L_Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 02:10 PM   #48920
fritzcoinc
Enjoying my last V8
 
fritzcoinc's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Cypress, Tx
Oddometer: 6,401
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Does anyone have a slick way to snug up the steering stem to the proper preload setting of 1.1-1.6 kg(2.4-3.5flbs)? I need to snug it down so I can continue to put my 04 back together. I can probably wing it but if I can get it presice then so much the better.

You can torque the nut with a stack of adaptors to get to the equvilent inch pounds. You need to fab a socket. What I do is tighten up the nut with channel locks while swinging the triple side to side. Tighten till is very difficult to swing the triple. Then use a large rubber hammer and drive the stem up into the head and then down into the head again while swinging the triple side to side. This is to get absolutely all the slack out of the bearing installation and seat them completely. Back off the nut and tighten with your fingers only till you can feel no slack or play at all. No matter how you do this job there will be the need for a readjustment after some amount of riding, then you will be good to go for a long time. Don't forget grease!
__________________
Regards
Fritzcoinc
96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
fritzcoinc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 02:13 PM   #48921
fritzcoinc
Enjoying my last V8
 
fritzcoinc's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Cypress, Tx
Oddometer: 6,401
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
For not wadding the chain up should it jump off the rear sprocket or break, should the countershaft chain guard be as close as possible from the sprocket, as far as possible, is there some optimum in-between?

You want the guide as close to the chain as possible. The broken chain will feed through the gap and fall out.
__________________
Regards
Fritzcoinc
96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
fritzcoinc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 02:17 PM   #48922
ecubed
LFC Cat
 
ecubed's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Nova Scotia & Virgina
Oddometer: 690
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
You said 'Shaft', and 'Junk', uh-huh-huh-huh-huh-huh
Bob, snug the "nut" until it is "all the way in" and "withdraw" till it feels nice and smooth.....
__________________
'02 XRL '95 K11RS '14 KZ1000ABS
ecubed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 02:31 PM   #48923
bwalsh
Beastly Adventurer
 
bwalsh's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Hell town
Oddometer: 10,620
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
You said 'Shaft', and 'Junk', uh-huh-huh-huh-huh-huh
But not in the same sentence thank doG. I'd never hear the end of it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
You can torque the nut with a stack of adaptors to get to the equvilent inch pounds. You need to fab a socket. What I do is tighten up the nut with channel locks while swinging the triple side to side. Tighten till is very difficult to swing the triple. Then use a large rubber hammer and drive the stem up into the head and then down into the head again while swinging the triple side to side. This is to get absolutely all the slack out of the bearing installation and seat them completely. Back off the nut and tighten with your fingers only till you can feel no slack or play at all. No matter how you do this job there will be the need for a readjustment after some amount of riding, then you will be good to go for a long time. Don't forget grease!
Yeah, I don't know if I have that many adapters!
I did know I will have to re-seat them after about 4-500 miles but thanks for the reminder!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecubed
Bob, snug the "nut" until it is "all the way in" and "withdraw" till it feels nice and smooth.....
That's how I've done it on my Mtn. bike in the past.
I read somewhere, somebody said they tighten the nut as tight as possible with leather gloves on...and it usually is pretty darn close to the correct spec. 3'lbs isn't a whole lot.

This has to be done, or is easier to do correctly, with the forks in the lower triple clamp correct?

Thanks for the help guys!
__________________
2004 XR650L / 2001 R1150GS
NWVA TAG NWVA TAG MAP RTE THREAD & IN LIST



bwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 03:18 PM   #48924
RideAbout
Mentally Retired
 
RideAbout's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Oregon
Oddometer: 1,564
Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250 View Post
Near Bend, OR???
Yep, riding with those 'tards in your sig line.
__________________
"Don't turn the Earth into a shit-hole like Uranus!"
West - "Oeste Sanchez"
RideAbout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 03:57 PM   #48925
Helipilot
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Helipilot's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 191
Starting Issue

Thanks for the replies to my initial post. To clarify, I did not adjust the valves, just noticed the difference in contact while checking for a stuck valve; also, when I did the Dave's Mod this Spring, I totally cleaned the carb and checked the fuel flow. The bike ran like a sewing machine after the mod and produced a better power to the rear wheel. Has been ridden on trails twice since the carb mod although not to say a piece of crud could have floated around and plugged a passageway in the carb.

I will check the kill switch although the bike produces spark when the plug is removed and grounded while cranking. I will also check the starting fluid trick and flush out the carb again.

Thanks again for all the ideas and suggestions gents. I appreciate you guys.
Helipilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 04:26 PM   #48926
Mossy-Back
Wet-Sider
 
Mossy-Back's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
Oddometer: 1,495
Quote:
Originally Posted by RideAbout View Post
Only photo I could find while at work. I have them installed over Cyra-Probend barkbusters. They cover just enough to keep your hands warm but dont intrude on the fore-arm.... and they make the bike wheelie easier!

Thanks! I hope to do some riding over on that side of the state next summer....
__________________
Evan
2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
Mossy-Back is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 08:00 PM   #48927
mendoteach
Beastly Adventurer
 
mendoteach's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Mendocino, NorCal
Oddometer: 1,390
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecubed View Post
Bob, snug the "nut" until it is "all the way in" and "withdraw" till it feels nice and smooth.....
+1. So long is there isn't any notchy-ness, or any free play, it can actually be used as a tuning tool.
mendoteach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 10:25 AM   #48928
XR BADGER
Adventurer
 
XR BADGER's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Location: SO CAL
Oddometer: 39
Just an ambiguous update on my pig. This weekend I removed the smog accoutrements with XR s only kit, very easy, and installed a uni filter. Also installed the moose skid plate, looks cool and protective. The pig is running pretty good, feels like it wants to really take off, but falls a little flat. It is also a bit "blubbery" on the bottom. However after I ride for about 30minutes, and then lean on it, it seems to really run pretty solid. It seems to like to stay high in the revs. Anyway, I am waiting for the jets to arrive, been a week from jetsrus, so I can perform Dave's mods. Also, oil change, bike has 478 miles now, certainly needs many more!

Update, just completed Dave s carb mods, and WOW, ear to ear fn grin...that is how I expected this pig to be. Thanks to everyone for the advice, spot on! Next, the CS sprocket and new acerbics tank.
Thanks again inmates for the help

XR BADGER screwed with this post 11-13-2012 at 04:55 PM Reason: Typo
XR BADGER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 10:41 AM   #48929
NitroRoo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
NitroRoo's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Oddometer: 352
Already updating my XL350R that I picked up Saturday.

The seat went from looking like this:


To this:


Also added some mirrors that I had laying around (I can actually see behind me now!), and I'd say I took 10 years off the bike

At work this morning:
__________________
-Reuben
ZRX 1100, XL350R
NitroRoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 05:26 PM   #48930
Sierra Thumper
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR BADGER View Post
Just an ambiguous update on my pig. This weekend I removed the smog accoutrements with XR s only kit, very easy, and installed a uni filter. Also installed the moose skid plate, looks cool and protective. The pig is running pretty good, feels like it wants to really take off, but falls a little flat. It is also a bit "blubbery" on the bottom. However after I ride for about 30minutes, and then lean on it, it seems to really run pretty solid. It seems to like to stay high in the revs. Anyway, I am waiting for the jets to arrive, been a week from jetsrus, so I can perform Dave's mods. Also, oil change, bike has 478 miles now, certainly needs many more!

Update, just completed Dave s carb mods, and WOW, ear to ear fn grin...that is how I expected this pig to be. Thanks to everyone for the advice, spot on! Next, the CS sprocket and new acerbics tank.
Thanks again inmates for the help
Yep thats why we suggest doing Dave mods, they make the xrl run the way its supposed to...awesome Don't forget to pull the snorkel off the airbox, and either remove the insert from the stock exhaust or pick up a free-flowing slip-on and you'll really have a nice running L.
Its a shame how badly these bikes come EPA strangled stock
__________________
"Don't get so concerned with the slab that you choose a turd for the dirt"- The Gospel as spoken by itrack
Sierra Thumper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014