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Old 12-20-2012, 07:57 PM   #50416
Mossy-Back
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Location: Corvallis, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
Yes, I think that we definetly need to involve guns in this trip. Maybe we could fire at pre-set targets from our bikes as we ride to the trailhead....

The sad thing is that if I dragged alvincullumyork up there, we would only have the one XRL to share between us ...... and I don't fancy riding bitch....
Just throw some knobbies on the Harley!
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:05 PM   #50417
Lonestar2112
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Location: Ventura County CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nic579 View Post
Hi guys a proud new owner of a low mile basket case that someone drove into a car its in need of a straight front end. It seems to run smoothly with the whir of a sewing machine and the thump of a Huey chopper. The bike has a slip-on but has not been jetted or been opened up on the intake side. I have a UNI filter coming and a selection of jets to do Dave's mod. I am also looking at getting a crf450r front end for the repair but an tempted by the cheeper stock front ends available. Is the $400+ difference worth it for the CRF450 fork and wheel stuff? Plastics are scraped up a bit but good enough and it needs a battery as it holds just enough juice for one start so if you miss back to the charger. Also I read that the suspension linkages should be disassembled and lubed as they can come dry from the factory is this correct? Any other thing I should look at please let me know. I think this would offically be my 4th XR and ,my first XR650L


I am in the process of upgrading my L to the 450 front end. If you can wait a month or so I will have a mostly complete L front end at a reasonable price.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:08 PM   #50418
Lonestar2112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
Hey guys, how much of a difference will an XR's only stage one hotcam make on an otherwise internally stock motor?
The specs are-
INTAKE LIFT: 8.8 mm
INTAKE DURATION: 258
EXHAUST LIFT: 8.8mm
EXHAUST DURATION: 258
I'm not sure what the stock lift/duration is....just wondering if the hotcam would make enough of a diff to be worth it money and labor wise? And how much low end, if any, would I give up?
Thanks in advance for any feedback
I was going to buy a 650 with a hot cam. The owner had just installed the new cam as a performance enhancement. The owner used to build bikes for the KTM race team, so I am confident that he did everything right on the install. The bottom line.....less than 1000 miles later he rebuilt the motor and replaced teh cam with a stock one.

I would not touch a motor that had a hot cam in it. YMMV.


Good luck.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:08 PM   #50419
fritzcoinc
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You can make chain sliders out of pretty much any plastic or rubber. It's a fun project.

OEM front slider for my XRL on right, rubber home made on left with metal locator bracket and sleeve ready to install. Starting raw rubber material at top. The soft rubber does not wear as long as plasitc of course but sure is smooth and silent. I drilled the hole first then cut out on a band saw. A hand saw would work. A little drum sanding to finish.



Here's a plastic rear slider I made a while back. Life is endless but it makes noise like a cajun playing a rubbing board. And some vibration as well. The ridge I routered, the only wear is at the leading edge.



Here's the rubber replacement for the plastic rear slider shown above. Very smoooooooooth. Make the same way as front slider. This one is big enough to drill holes at any time. I put a hump in the front of the rear slider. Once the chain wears into the rubber far enough for the rollers to roll on the rubber surface wear is very slow.



Here's how I came up with the shape'



Finished rubber slider. Assemble with SS screws and lock nuts, 1/4" - 20NC from HDWE store AND lock tight.



Here's a plastic slider I make for an old Husky. Wear is great, noise/vibration is bad. For this one I made a template from the original slider and then cut out the plastic with a copy bit in my router. A little hot bending as well. Another draw back or using hard plasitic I discovered during assembly of swing arm to frame was that you would need to pull the swing arm to repalce slider. That would not be an issue with rubber or urathane material.



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fritzcoinc screwed with this post 12-20-2012 at 08:16 PM
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:12 PM   #50420
purpledrake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
Yes, I think that we definetly need to involve guns in this trip. Maybe we could fire at pre-set targets from our bikes as we ride to the trailhead....


Do you mean this? (Yabusame, 流鏑馬)

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Old 12-20-2012, 08:18 PM   #50421
MentalGuru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
You can make chain sliders out of pretty much any plastic or rubber. It's a fun project.

OEM front slider for my XRL on right, rubber home made on left with metal locator bracket and sleeve ready to install. Rubber material at top. The soft rubber does not wear as long as plasitc of course but sure is smooth and silent. I drilled the hole first then cut out on a band saw. A hand saw would work.



Here's a plastic rear slider I made a while back. Life is endless but it makes noise like a cajun playing a rubbing board. And some vibration as well. The ridge I routered, the only wear is at the leading edge.



Here's the rubber replacement for the plastic rear slider shown above. Very smoooooooooth. Make the same way as front slider. This one is big enough to drill holes at any time. I put a hump in the front of the rear slider. Once the chain wears into the rubber far enough for the rollers to roll on the rubber surface wear is very slow.



Here's how I came up with the shape'



Finished rubber slider. Assemble with SS screws and lock nuts, 1/4" - 20NC from HDWE store AND lock tight.



Here's a plastic slider I make for an old Husky. Wear is great, noise/vibration is bad. For this one I made a template from the original slider and then cut out the plastic with a copy bit in my router. A little hot bending as well.




Hey fritz,

I got some old husky parts around here.... I sold a swingarm just like that that one this spring. I have a clean O-Neal PJ-1 shock from it and some other odds and ends...

The slider looks good too.

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Old 12-20-2012, 08:31 PM   #50422
ThumpnRed
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
Hey guys, how much of a difference will an XR's only stage one hotcam make on an otherwise internally stock motor?
The specs are-
INTAKE LIFT: 8.8 mm
INTAKE DURATION: 258
EXHAUST LIFT: 8.8mm
EXHAUST DURATION: 258
I'm not sure what the stock lift/duration is....just wondering if the hotcam would make enough of a diff to be worth it money and labor wise? And how much low end, if any, would I give up?
Thanks in advance for any feedback
With an otherwise stock motor, I suspect it would make very little difference.
btw... I have had one in my engine for three years now... It is doing just fine. No apocalyptic meltdowns or anything. A guy up the street has had a Hotcam in his XR650R for a couple of years longer. He just rebuilt the top end... valve springs were sacked. The cam still looked great.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:36 PM   #50423
fritzcoinc
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Location: Cypress, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
With an otherwise stock motor, I suspect it would make very little difference.
btw... I have had one in my engine for three years now... It is doing just fine. No apocalyptic meltdowns or anything. A guy up the street has had a Hotcam in his XR650R for a couple of years longer. He just rebuilt the top end... valve springs were sacked. The cam still looked great.
The HotCam haters sound like the Wiesco piston conspirators.

But the Hotcam is going top have a more agressive ramp, aye?
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:41 PM   #50424
wbedient
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: North Central Washington
Oddometer: 1,212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
Yes, I think that we definetly need to involve guns in this trip. Maybe we could fire at pre-set targets from our bikes as we ride to the trailhead....

The sad thing is that if I dragged alvincullumyork up there, we would only have the one XRL to share between us ...... and I don't fancy riding bitch....
Don't know who I and my firearms got drug into this but... I'm game!

Got lots of good riding and a spare enduro for guests. Bring your own ammo.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:43 PM   #50425
beechum1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
The HotCam haters sound like the Wiesco piston conspirators.

But the Hotcam is going top have a more agressive ramp, aye?
Helped me with the pinging I was having with the JE102.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #50426
F250Pal
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I know a powdercoater.









...and he just sprayed his wheels.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:57 PM   #50427
F250Pal
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Right side is weld on. Left side is bolt on. XR6 exhaust can, D606 130/90-18 tire. Plenty of room on both sides.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:42 AM   #50428
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The bike is looking good.



It's been dead on here today....


Here's a cool work safe video.




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Old 12-21-2012, 09:09 AM   #50429
JT
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Location: Elgin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Pretty sure Rockymountainatv.com is having a free 2-day shipping day today... and the Tusk clutch kit is only $50 from them.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...prings?ref=gmc

I ordered the Tusk kit from RMATV and paid extra for the overnight Saturday delivery to try and make sure I can get it installed asap. Thanks everybody for the advice.

As for the chain lengths, I like the 112 link. I run a 48 tooth rear sprocket. When I first mounted it with a 110 link chain, the adjusters were very tight with the 15 tooth front. This meant the wheel was sucked up tight in the swingarm and caused the handling to be a little too twitchy. I decided to order the next chain at 112, test it and if it was long cut it back down to 110. I found it worked better for me than the 110. Now I still have enough adjustment for either a 14 front for tight technical stuff and can go to the 15 for most riding.

I find the bike is more stable at highway speeds than with the wheelbase pulled up tight like it was with the 110 link chain.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:29 AM   #50430
smokeeater495
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Location: N.E. Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JThompson View Post
I ordered the Tusk kit from RMATV and paid extra for the overnight Saturday delivery to try and make sure I can get it installed asap. Thanks everybody for the advice.

As for the chain lengths, I like the 112 link. I run a 48 tooth rear sprocket. When I first mounted it with a 110 link chain, the adjusters were very tight with the 15 tooth front. This meant the wheel was sucked up tight in the swingarm and caused the handling to be a little too twitchy. I decided to order the next chain at 112, test it and if it was long cut it back down to 110. I found it worked better for me than the 110. Now I still have enough adjustment for either a 14 front for tight technical stuff and can go to the 15 for most riding.

I find the bike is more stable at highway speeds than with the wheelbase pulled up tight like it was with the 110 link chain.

What's the 48 like at highway speeds?
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