XRL owners sign in.

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by AZ TOM

You just confirmed gearing up will benifit you. Low gear more useable

So, you're suggesting that since I need the low first only a small percentage of time I should simply do without? That's one way to skew the compromise. It's just not how I prefer it. It seems you are oversimplifying the problem and ignoring the fact that "gearing down" also brings second and third into a more useful range for me. But that's okay, I've tried the various combinations and compared them; that gives me a bit of an advantage of knowing what works for me in actual experience.

[nic579]

At Lowes you can get the POP rivet washers for shimming the needle.

Originally Posted by bwalsh

I went in to Lowes this evening to pick up a pack of those washers. I got to the Hardware section and an employee asked if he could help.

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

See if Home Depot has Hillman #4S washers, part #491431. Can't Lowes order the washers for you? Spud

Don't you have a decent hardware store in Front Royal? Edinburgh? Stevens City? Rocking R in h'burg would have them. I'm pretty sure I can find one at home. I can mail you one, also. LMK by PM

[MentalGuru]

I bought another set of Easton EXP bars Woods Hi/Freestyle bend and 7/8" to 1 3/8" adapter mounts. The bars will be here tomorrow.

Test fit my the KTM/Suzuki bend Easton EXP bars. Everything will work great togeather I set the bars at 0 degrees and everything bolted up perfectly.


This is what your seeing: CR250 USD billet upper triple, Acerbis Supermoto handguards, Cryra front triple handguard mounts, Easton EXP KTM/Suzuki bend bars and XR650L turnsignal mounts.

The Cryra front triple handguard mounts are nice and have two handguard mounting holes instead of one like the pictured on the website.










My Woods Hi/Freestyle bars will be here tomorrow. I'll post up pictures of the 3 bends and the 7/8" adapter mounts too.

[Brown Falcon]

So, getting away from gearing...

Is anyone running a "low" front fender? Or does anyone have a link to one that would work with a fork brace?

Has anyone tried mounting a regular fender to the fork brace to allow more air flow to the head (and deflect water/dirt better)? Pictures???

[Schultz!]

Originally Posted by Brown Falcon

So, getting away from gearing...

Is anyone running a "low" front fender? Or does anyone have a link to one that would work with a fork brace?

Has anyone tried mounting a regular fender to the fork brace to allow more air flow to the head (and deflect water/dirt better)? Pictures???

I am going with a low mount but that's a different application,

I think allot for the off-roaders frown on the low mount fenders due to the fact they pack mud relay easily and possibly causing drag or lockup on the front tire due to the close proximity of the fender.

That being said I have seen a few photos of DR 650s with low mount setups but were bastardized sport bike fenders or a older acerbis low mount front fenders that seem to no longer be manufactured.

If your dead set on getting one I think the BMW GS 650 front fender would require the least modification to fit the XRs stock forks with a brace but have not seen it done nor have I mocked one up.

[Gone14s]

Originally Posted by Brown Falcon

So, getting away from gearing...

Is anyone running a "low" front fender? Or does anyone have a link to one that would work with a fork brace?

Has anyone tried mounting a regular fender to the fork brace to allow more air flow to the head (and deflect water/dirt better)? Pictures???

Sure you can. I have done a couple of fender mod's for lowering them down toward the tire. You can use a street fender off a SV650, KTM. I have mount fenders on top of the fork brace and under it. It will take a bit of modding with any fender you use though.
Just find the one you like and go for it. When you mod a item for a bike it is all just trail and error. But most of the time someone comes up with away to get it done.

Kurt

[Brown Falcon]

Originally Posted by Gone14s

Sure you can. I have done a couple of fender mod's for lowering them down toward the tire. You can use a street fender off a SV650, KTM. I have mount fenders on top of the fork brace and under it. It will take a bit of modding with any fender you use though.
Just find the one you like and go for it. When you mod a item for a bike it is all just trail and error. But most of the time someone comes up with away to get it done.

Kurt

I was looking at my current fender (aftermarket Acerbis) and the spacing of the mounting holes, and it appears that the slots in the fork brace might line up pretty well with the mounting holes. I wouldn't want it sitting too close to the tire, so I thought that mounting it above the fork brace would work pretty well. I'll play around with what I have and see how much modification it would need.

[RED CAT]

My XRL with an Acerbis Low Fast Front Fender for years without the mud problem. Does 2 things really well. Keeps the Head cooler(more air) and keeps the bike a lot cleaner. Looks a little funny but hey, the Dakar guys do it.

[3girlsdad]

Originally Posted by RED CAT

My XRL with an Acerbis Low Fast Front Fender for years without the mud problem. Does 2 things really well. Keeps the Head cooler(more air) and keeps the bike a lot cleaner. Looks a little funny but hey, the Dakar guys do it.

please show me how funny it looks....

[Spud Rider]

Recent discussions of the NX650 second gear, and the FMX650 fifth gear exchanges reminded me of an interesting video. This video demonstrates how a six-speed, constant mesh, un-synchronized transmission works in a motorcycle.

Before viewing the video, you can visit the following website which clearly explains how the XR650L transmission operates.

http://www.justxr.com/jaw/gearbox.html

Here is the operation of 1st gear.



Here is the operation of 2nd gear.



Here is the operation of 3rd gear.



Here is the operation of 4th gear.



Here is the operation of 5th gear.



The five-speed transmission in the XR650L works exactly as shown in the following video. However, since the video demonstrates a six-speed transmission, merely disregard 4th gear in the video. Gears 1-3 work exactly as shown, and the last two gears demonstrate how 4th gear and 5th gear work for the XR650L transmission.



Spud

[Spud Rider]

The NX650 was imported into the United States in 1988-1989. Replacing the stock second gear on the main shaft with the NX650 second gear, part #23421-MN9-010 will close the gap between 1st and 2nd gear in the stock transmission. The NX650 second gear is part #5 in the following diagram.



The NX650 second gear replaces the top gear on the main shaft. You retain the stock second gear on the countershaft. The NX650 second gear costs $36, and is readily available for sale in the United States.



The FMX650 was never imported into the United States. Therefore, you can only obtain the FMX650 fifth gear from either Europe or Japan. Replacing the stock fifth gear on the countershaft with the FMX650 fifth gear, part #23491-MW2-780, will increase the gap between 4th and 5th gear in the stock transmission, allowing lower engine rpms in fifth gear. The FMX650 fifth gear is part #16 in the following diagram.



The FMX650 fifth gear replaces the bottom gear on the countershaft. You retain the stock fifth gear on the main shaft.



Spud

[fritzcoinc]

All this talk of changing second gear to close the gap ect., I like the high second. In sand or mud you can hit second and spread out the power pluses from the engine thus keep the wheel from spinning.

[MentalGuru]

Originally Posted by fritzcoinc

All this talk of changing second gear to close the gap ect., I like the high second. In sand or mud you can hit second and spread out the power pluses from the engine thus keep the wheel from spinning.

Good throttle control has the same effect...

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by fritzcoinc

All this talk of changing second gear to close the gap ect., I like the high second. In sand or mud you can hit second and spread out the power pluses from the engine thus keep the wheel from spinning.

The tall 2nd is a pain in the rear when working on tight trails (or in a rocky creek bed). 1st is too low, so you jump to 2 and it is too high. So.... you stay in 2nd and abuse the sheeeeit outta your clutch.