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Old 03-20-2013, 10:00 AM   #56536
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
So...in short.........you are calling BULLSHIT on that,,right Fritz..

B
sucker!

No, just getting the facts together. To hit top speed in the Mile everything must be spot on, a perfect run. If you had 5 miles to top out, a higher speed may be possible.
Sorry to sound condescending.

Tex. Mile photos.
This Busa from K.C. was stoked, stirpped, slamed, race fuel and all. The rider lost 40 pounds for this event. It went 193.


This chick ran this Busa to 183. Again a maxed out effort.



Not too bad. The chick I mean.

One of my better photos. A turbo flat head Harley:


The engine had issues building boost to go anywhere, but what a looker!



This photo I titled " The Quest For Speed". Three heads are better than one. There is another MPH in there somewhere!
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fritzcoinc screwed with this post 03-20-2013 at 10:09 AM
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:04 AM   #56537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
You would need a dyno in a wind tunnel. Ive put a gauge on a ram-air duct. At around 190 I got less than 2 PSI.
Without the air jammer road rammer duct, I would think that you would be reading a negative pressure in the airbox at wide open throttle. So at 2PSI it's doing its job. A 2PSI increase is like going from 4000' in elevation to sea level. That's significant.

For the sake of science, you should re-route the engine intake so that you can run the bike with the engine side of the airbox completely plugged. Then measure the pressure in the airbox at high speed. My hypothesis is that you will see a pressure higher than 2PSI.

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Old 03-20-2013, 10:05 AM   #56538
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Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
.. cool is good..
Good is cool, too.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:05 AM   #56539
fritzcoinc
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Originally Posted by taco250 View Post
As Brian alluded to, alloy cools quicker but fins of any kind that were solidly attached with out any insulators between them and the tube would help reduce heat in the downtube. The only "fly in the ointment" is they can't see so big they obstruct air flow over the motor. Maybe if they were made of a perforated material that would create even more surface area and yet allow airflow.
The only way I have figured out to make a tube like that is to get a heavy wall square tube ( 3/8"?) and mill fins. The fins would only be say 1/4" deep at say 1/8" apart and leave an 1/8" wall. Even packed with mud there would be some cooling. I think the big advantage would be very little additional weight added to the bike and no additional oil line connections to fail/leak.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:23 AM   #56540
kenny61
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Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I bet if you go up another tooth in the front you could hit 205.

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Old 03-20-2013, 10:46 AM   #56541
joexr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
the 190 mph speed you stated was measured with track equiptment of the bikes speedo?
gps
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:48 AM   #56542
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Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I bet if you go up another tooth in the front you could hit 205.
No thats about all it had , but I get the joke.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:52 AM   #56543
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Originally Posted by RonZacapa View Post
Thinking that the idea with a heatshield close to the heat radiating headers is onto something. It may work a bit in a localised hot area, but it may also prevent the heat that is trapped in the downtube from being emitted and radiated out. Theres a reason that old electric kettles were shiny chrome on the outside, this helps in keeping the hot water hot for longer. On the other side a matt dark object is known to emit heat better thus aiding the cooling process. I would simply paint the downtube flat or satin black and see if it makes any difference - just thinking.....
Short of welding to the downtube , Id like to come up with a way to add fins to it above the exhaust. Anybody got any ideas ? Ok I just read the previous posts. Great minds and Fritz think alike.

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Old 03-20-2013, 10:54 AM   #56544
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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
I wonder. At the Texas Mile, highly modified bikes have a hard time going faster than 185 due mostly to aerodynamic resistance. There was a modified Busa there that went 187 and the on bike telemerty recorded a rear wheel speed 9 MPH faster than the front at the end of the mile. All that HP just could not punch through the air at those speeds. So when someone claims 190 or even 205 from a near stock bike I am skeptical.
I agree. Most people tell you what their speedo said. Also the Japanese bikes are all electronically limited to 186 MPH , which is 300 KPH. There are different ways of circumventing this though.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:01 AM   #56545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
The only way I have figured out to make a tube like that is to get a heavy wall square tube ( 3/8"?) and mill fins. The fins would only be say 1/4" deep at say 1/8" apart and leave an 1/8" wall. Even packed with mud there would be some cooling. I think the big advantage would be very little additional weight added to the bike and no additional oil line connections to fail/leak.
How about a finned aluminum black anodized oil return pipe?
(in place of the stock return tube running up the side of the frame reserviour)
Could be made from aluminum discs heliarc welded to a fitted aluminum tube...
Or maybe some such specialty tube stock is available off the shelf somewhere.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:02 AM   #56546
taco250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
The only way I have figured out to make a tube like that is to get a heavy wall square tube ( 3/8"?) and mill fins. The fins would only be say 1/4" deep at say 1/8" apart and leave an 1/8" wall. Even packed with mud there would be some cooling. I think the big advantage would be very little additional weight added to the bike and no additional oil line connections to fail/leak.

Maybe not. .049 steel slotted (or drilled) and welded to the tube would work fine I think. The fins could also be positioned horizontally along the length of the tube which would allow air flow over the engine and provide more surface area for cooling.

If you went with a bolt-on AL type it would only have to be 3/16 to be durable enough.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:03 AM   #56547
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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
sucker!

No, just getting the facts together. To hit top speed in the Mile everything must be spot on, a perfect run. If you had 5 miles to top out, a higher speed may be possible.
Sorry to sound condescending.

Tex. Mile photos.
This Busa from K.C. was stoked, stirpped, slamed, race fuel and all. The rider lost 40 pounds for this event. It went 193.


This chick ran this Busa to 183. Again a maxed out effort.



Not too bad. The chick I mean.

One of my better photos. A turbo flat head Harley:


The engine had issues building boost to go anywhere, but what a looker!



This photo I titled " The Quest For Speed". Three heads are better than one. There is another MPH in there somewhere!
Is that a flying mile or does that include stopping area?
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:10 AM   #56548
joexr
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Originally Posted by flyingwombat View Post
Without the air jammer road rammer duct, I would think that you would be reading a negative pressure in the airbox at wide open throttle. So at 2PSI it's doing its job. A 2PSI increase is like going from 4000' in elevation to sea level. That's significant.

For the sake of science, you should re-route the engine intake so that you can run the bike with the engine side of the airbox completely plugged. Then measure the pressure in the airbox at high speed. My hypothesis is that you will see a pressure higher than 2PSI.

Thats an interesting thought. I dont have that particular bike anymore and Ive never tried topping out the one I have now. The way I see it a chimpanzee can turn the throttle going straight [ I dont mean drag racing ] . I would rather hang curves at three times the speed limit.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:12 AM   #56549
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:14 AM   #56550
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
How about a finned aluminum black anodized oil return pipe?
(in place of the stock return tube running up the side of the frame reserviour)
Could be made from aluminum discs heliarc welded to a fitted aluminum tube...
Or maybe some such specialty tube stock is available off the shelf somewhere.
Wouldnt that just be a long thin oil cooler anyway?
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