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Old 06-15-2009, 12:48 PM   #6781
XR650L_Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by debaisley
Well Actually I did , what had happened is that it was so thick , it took me a few minutes just to get its bike off its side. All of the water ran down the exahust pipe. There was nothing in the air box or carb.




Actually you were right , after the third oil change , it finally flowed out clean.
Am I the only guy that keeps last season's oil around so I cab do 3 oil changes with old oil (to get the water out) before doing a change with good oil?

Actually, it took me 4 or 5 changes.

Dave
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:48 PM   #6782
honda lou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111
I AM VERY GOOD AT CARBS AND TUNING THEM. THE PILOT JET SHOULD BE AROUND 50 STOCK AND 160 MAIN. I DID FORGET ABOUT ELEVATION. I AM AROUND 500 FEET. THE HIGHER THE BIGER JET YOU NEED ANYWAY. WHATS YOUR ELEVATION.


Pardon me but but don't you go LEANER at altitude? As in a SMALLER jet?


BTW... Lou, cool it on the ALL CAP's please. We can hear you...[/quote]

yes you are right about the elevation. i got it mixed up. you do go leaner. about 1 size every 1700-2000 feet diference. i got rid of the caps this time.
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Old 06-15-2009, 01:12 PM   #6783
Wattner
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PJI factory match paints
http://www.pjhbrands.com/

I have used it for years, works well
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Old 06-15-2009, 04:20 PM   #6784
lasercustoms
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After talking to my friend (he used to work on electric motors) I pulled off the bearing seal to reveal the balls. Then I drilled in between the balls and ripped the cage apart. This let me take out the balls and inner race. Then that silly sleeve came out and exposed the other bearing to an on-slot of hammering. After getting out the whole bearing I punched out the outer race on the other side . This made me so squarely I went after the tire and I won that battle too.
The front brakes are lucky I'm babysitting tonight .

I think I'll clean the pistons Wattner. that sounds good to me. I dought it's a ghost. All the ghost I know are to big to fit in the line.
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Old 06-15-2009, 04:24 PM   #6785
Ben99r1
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Need advice on painting my header and exhaust.

I am changing the exhaust gaskets. So i figure while I am at it I should repaint the headers. What is the best way to sand the old paint off. I want to keep this low budget so sand blasting is out the question. Also what high temp paint has worked for you guys? Thanks Ben
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Old 06-15-2009, 05:43 PM   #6786
Deltakus
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Question Clutch?

My XR650L has a way tought clutch pull. I remember my last one XR I had was tought too. is there any with to lighting it up? Or does mine just have a problem?
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:14 PM   #6787
gottyours
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oil temp

why not just do both dave. big fin head and a cooler. im working on the xr400 cooler slowly and next winter im doing the head
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:29 PM   #6788
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben99r1
I am changing the exhaust gaskets. So i figure while I am at it I should repaint the headers. What is the best way to sand the old paint off. I want to keep this low budget so sand blasting is out the question. Also what high temp paint has worked for you guys? Thanks Ben
Sorry to hear you can not " go all the way" right now with a good and durable exhaust coating. Ceramic is by far the best.
Try emory cloth at about 80 grit. This is a cloth backed abrasive that is tough, usually 2" wide, sold by the foot at industrial supply places, and can be wrapped around the pipes and used shoe shine style.
Now the paint is the problem. There is just not a paint that will last as long as all your sanding effort desivers.
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:33 PM   #6789
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deltakus
My XR650L has a way tought clutch pull. I remember my last one XR I had was tought too. is there any with to lighting it up? Or does mine just have a problem?
Take apart, clean, and lube the handlbar lever.
Blast contact cleanner through the cable with compressed air and relube with some spray oil of your choice.
Lastly, pull the left side engine cover and dissamble, clean, and lube the clutch accuator rod. There is a small needle bearing in the case under the seal that may be bad.
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:40 PM   #6790
doughy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben99r1
I am changing the exhaust gaskets. So i figure while I am at it I should repaint the headers. What is the best way to sand the old paint off. I want to keep this low budget so sand blasting is out the question. Also what high temp paint has worked for you guys? Thanks Ben

Wire wheel is the way I did mine, and for the paint, some 1500 degree VHT.. ..

While you have the header off, if you gots a dremmel type tool, grind down the welds on the inside of your header pipe. Don't go too much, but make sure you can get them all the way down so it's nice and smooth in there. Those factory welds are between 1/4 and 1/8 inch too thick.. Much better air flow. One of my friends has the same mods as me except the ground down welds. Difference? I can hit 160 KMH, (100 mph) with a 14t front sprocket, and he maxes out at about 125kmh (85 mph)


Ya ya I know I haven't posted in a little bit, but summer is here, I've been riding...
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:41 PM   #6791
binclintonusa
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I really hope you like this new challenge! Best of luck, everyone!

pret auto
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:59 PM   #6792
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasercustoms
After talking to my friend (he used to work on electric motors) I pulled off the bearing seal to reveal the balls. Then I drilled in between the balls and ripped the cage apart. This let me take out the balls and inner race. Then that silly sleeve came out and exposed the other bearing to an on-slot of hammering. After getting out the whole bearing I punched out the outer race on the other side . This made me so squarely I went after the tire and I won that battle too.
The front brakes are lucky I'm babysitting tonight .

I think I'll clean the pistons Wattner. that sounds good to me. I dought it's a ghost. All the ghost I know are to big to fit in the line.
Don't forget to put that 'silly sleeve' back in
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:51 PM   #6793
Wattner
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DELTAKUS,

If you take the perch apart and lube the swivel as well as the hole the cable goes in, then use a motion pro tool: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ategory/cable/

and use some Honda Brake and parts cleaner:
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/pr...segment=badger

Then lube the cable with: http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/pr...segment=badger

Then take off the side cover and clean and lube the needle bearings you should have WAY better action. You can go another step and lengthen the actuator arm on the motor by about 3/8" or slightly more and you will have velvet easy action. I have done all of this and continue to clean and lube often and it makes the heavy clutch springs I put in easier than the stock weak springs.... Neat trick!!! Scott Summers used to sell a similar mod I believe
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:57 PM   #6794
mcma111
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Stiff Clutch Action

You guys have been squeezing the CHARMIN TP for to long
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:07 PM   #6795
Wattner
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Hey Lou,

I have the 42 mm. Mikuni pumper carb.

The pilot is a 22.5, and the main is a 150

The needle is in the center.

I would be real curious to get the carb all perfectly dialed in... I'll be happy to send it to you to play with and see if you like it... I was told by a guy at Sudco that it is the way to go over the Keihin, but I don't really know for sure???? I had an FCR pumper as well as the Flat slide in the past. I really have not had this carb all dialed in to see if I really like it or not. I have several rides but wanted to drive the FOKKER off a cliff until I discovered the cracked boot. I have used RTV and sealed the crack, Hopefully I can get some saddle time soon and see if I have the problem solved. I would like to have a Keihin pumper to swap back and forth to play with. I need to port the new boot and play... I may pick up a Keihin from Sudco and compare, then sell the one that places second in my liking....

I was thinking it was the Keihin I had, but after review it was the Mikuni... I had them reversed mentally.... I seem to do that more and more and more???
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