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Old 06-10-2006, 02:40 AM   #736
winterhk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
OK, I sold my XR650L and am thinking about that DRZ400S. A quick review would be useful, especially before I do something stupid this weekend.
Murg, do yourself a favor and buy a REAL dirtbike. If you've sold the XR, that means that you want a real dirtbike...something badass on the trails. The DRZs is not it. Have you ridden it? I'd take the XRL's motor any day over the DRZ's size. What about a KTM LC4e? That's the only upgrade in my opinion. They can be had for less than $4k used. Just check it out before you get seduced by the digital instruments and smaller size...



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Old 06-10-2006, 10:14 AM   #737
twowheeljunky
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Question Anyone Parting Out an XRL?

I'm looking for a Cylinder Head for a 1999 XR650L or even a complete motor. The Decompressor assembly came apart on my bike and destroyed most of the top end of my motor. I sent the Head to XR's Only and it appears that it may not be worth fixing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-10-2006, 10:54 AM   #738
Shair_Khan
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Question 14 tooth

Hi all,

What is the best place to get a 14-tooth front sprocket? and how much should it cost? Would I be able to keep the same chain or would I need to remove some links? (Keeping the same rear sprocket).

I think I need to make this change... I went off-roading yesterday... and every time I go dirt riding I get disappointed with this bike's gearing. I can power wheelie sometimes in 1st gear.

Thanks.

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Old 06-10-2006, 11:03 AM   #739
Shair_Khan
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Pissed Confused like heck!!!

Hello again...

I still have those strange oil issues... Have not gotten a chance to take it to a dealer... Ok!!! The dealer doesnot seem to know much about this bike either... they say they don't get very many for service.

Anyway, am I checking the oil the correct way?????

If I keep the bike on side stand and idle for 3 to 5 mins. and then hold it straight and check oil.... The level goes further down as compared to what it was before starting the engine.

HOWEVER, if I hold the bike straight all the way through idling... the oil level rises and I get a reading between the full & low mark.

Please help! Thanks.

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Old 06-10-2006, 11:05 AM   #740
murgatroid42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shair_Khan
Hi all,

What is the best place to get a 14tooth front sprocket? and how much should it cost? Would I be able to keep the same chain or would I need to remove some links? (Keeping the same rear sprocket).

Thanks.

--
Sincerely,
Shair A. Khan
The best place is to go to a Honda dealer and get a late '90's XR600R front sprocket. Or order it from ronayers.com or servicehonda.com. That's what I used. I bought an indestructable Renthal 14 tooth, which worked great, but I heard horror stories that it is so hard that it will wear the countershaft splines and then you have to weld a replacement to the shaft or crack the case to repair it. If you want it, I will sell it cheap. But don't blame me for any problems.

Edit: The Honda one should be about $40, which is high, but... A Renthal is under $30. You can get cheapo sprockets for $10-15 bucks. You don't have to repalce the chain, it will fit will. You will have to readjust your chain slack, the wheel will move back to the rear a little.
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:09 AM   #741
murgatroid42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winterhk
Murg, do yourself a favor and buy a REAL dirtbike. If you've sold the XR, that means that you want a real dirtbike...something badass on the trails. The DRZs is not it. Have you ridden it? I'd take the XRL's motor any day over the DRZ's size. What about a KTM LC4e? That's the only upgrade in my opinion. They can be had for less than $4k used. Just check it out before you get seduced by the digital instruments and smaller size
Thanks for the reality check. I'm looking for that non-existent perfect dualsport. I WANT a real dirtbike, but Murgawife will only let me have one bike at a time, so I'll skip the single track stuff. Or I can get an XT225 or Super Sherpa.

KTM's? Too much maintenance and cost. The LC4's are heavier than the XRL. A co-worker just got a new 525EXC and added lots of mods, but there is no way I can afford that.
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:17 AM   #742
murgatroid42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shair_Khan
...Anyway, am I checking the oil the correct way?????

If I keep the bike on side stand and idle for 3 to 5 mins. and then hold it straight and check oil.... The level goes further down as compared to what it was before starting the engine.

HOWEVER, if I hold the bike straight all the way through idling... the oil level rises and I get a reading between the full & low mark.
OK, do this:
1. When you change the oil, put 2.06 quarts in it. You will have to put 1.5 qts in it, then maybe start it up to circulate the oil from the frame into the engine, then add the rest. Now you have a good baseline for checking the oil level.
2. Ride the thing for 15 minutes. Forget about idling it for 5 minutes, why do that? Ride the stupid thing!!
3. After you ride it, stop it, turn it off. Wait about 1 minute, not much more. Sit on the bike to hold it vertical, unscrew the cap, wipe the dipstick clean, then place it into the frame (do not screw it down). Pull it out, and look at the level. Is the level near the top mark? Good. You're done.
4. If you do this immediately after an oil change, you should see how close you are to the top mark. You know the oil is full, so this is the reference to see if you are using oil. Now, every time you check the oil, do the same: ride it, wait 1 minute, then check it vertically.

This should give you consistent readings. Anyone else have better ideas?
__________________
"We hang around people who think these activities are normal."
"Me and gravity, we are really, really good friends." - Streetbike Tommy, Nitro Circus
"I'm a dude in his mid-40s, who acts likes he's in his 20's. But I don't plan on stopping any time soon." - Ken Block
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:18 AM   #743
Shair_Khan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
The best place is to go to a Honda dealer and get a late '90's XR600R front sprocket. Or order it from ronayers.com or servicehonda.com. That's what I used. I bought an indestructable Renthal 14 tooth, which worked great, but I heard horror stories that it is so hard that it will wear the countershaft splines and then you have to weld a replacement to the shaft or crack the case to repair it. If you want it, I will sell it cheap. But don't blame me for any problems.
Thank you for the info.

Did you only change the front? Were you able to keep the cxhain without any modification?

I think I need to make this change... I went off-roading yesterday... and every time I go dirt riding I get disappointed with this bike's gearing. I can power wheelie sometimes in 1st gear.

How big a difference did this change make for you?

Thanks.

--
Sincerely,
Shair A. Khan
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:27 AM   #744
murgatroid42
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Location: Ft. Collins, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shair_Khan
Thank you for the info.

Did you only change the front? Were you able to keep the cxhain without any modification?

I think I need to make this change... I went off-roading yesterday... and every time I go dirt riding I get disappointed with this bike's gearing. I can power wheelie sometimes in 1st gear.

How big a difference did this change make for you?

Thanks.

--
Sincerely,
Shair A. Khan
I changed only the front because I run the bike on the street most of the time, and didn't want to limit the bike's top end a lot. The 14 made a significant difference; the bike will now pull away in first without bogging, it is even nicer for the street. This is a no-brainer. There is still a large gap between first and second, but there is nothing you can do about that (cheaply). I tried the front first, and if I wanted to do more, I could always change the rear to a 48 tooth or so. I never did.

The stock chain will work without mods for the 14. It will set the rear wheel back a little. If you want more dirt response, get the 14 first, then get a 48 rear. I do not know if the chain will fit with the larger rear (it might). Do a search on thumpertalk, the answers are there.

See my edited comments in the previous post.
__________________
"We hang around people who think these activities are normal."
"Me and gravity, we are really, really good friends." - Streetbike Tommy, Nitro Circus
"I'm a dude in his mid-40s, who acts likes he's in his 20's. But I don't plan on stopping any time soon." - Ken Block
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:29 AM   #745
Shair_Khan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
OK, do this:
1. When you change the oil, put 2.06 quarts in it. You will have to put 1.5 qts in it, then maybe start it up to circulate the oil from the frame into the engine, then add the rest. Now you have a good baseline for checking the oil level.
2. Ride the thing for 15 minutes. Forget about idling it for 5 minutes, why do that? Ride the stupid thing!!
3. After you ride it, stop it, turn it off. Wait about 1 minute, not much more. Sit on the bike to hold it vertical, unscrew the cap, wipe the dipstick clean, then place it into the frame (do not screw it down). Pull it out, and look at the level. Is the level near the top mark? Good. You're done.
4. If you do this immediately after an oil change, you should see how close you are to the top mark. You know the oil is full, so this is the reference to see if you are using oil. Now, every time you check the oil, do the same: ride it, wait 1 minute, then check it vertically.
This should give you consistent readings. Anyone else have better ideas?
I have done what you described. I am trying to keep an eye on the oil consumption as well.

If I run it hard (like regular rapid acceleration, etc.) I get a higher reading (more towards the high mark). Someone told me this does not give an acurate projection of oil level... so I stopped doing that.

Also, when the bike is parked overnight does your oil level drop significantly?

Thanks.

--
Sincerely,
Shair
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:37 AM   #746
Shair_Khan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
I changed only the front because I run the bike on the street most of the time, and didn't want to limit the bike's top end a lot. The 14 made a significant difference; the bike will now pull away in first without bogging, it is even nicer for the street. This is a no-brainer. There is still a large gap between first and second, but there is nothing you can do about that (cheaply). I tried the front first, and if I wanted to do more, I could always change the rear to a 48 tooth or so. I never did.

The stock chain will work without mods for the 14. It will set the rear wheel back a little. If you want more dirt response, get the 14 first, then get a 48 rear. I do not know if the chain will fit with the larger rear (it might). Do a search on thumpertalk, the answers are there.

See my edited comments in the previous post.
You are right! I think I will follow your lead and just change the front first and see the difference. I do a lot of street riding too, so don't want to make a huge difference at the top end too.

What were your usual shiftpoints before making this change from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th to 5th and what are they now?

Thanks again.

--
Sincerely,
Shair
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Old 06-10-2006, 12:45 PM   #747
murgatroid42
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Location: Ft. Collins, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shair_Khan
...Also, when the bike is parked overnight does your oil level drop significantly?
I do not check it overnight. Why? It will drain into the motor. It's not the correct method. Don't do it, it will give "wrong" readings. Why are you worried about wrong readings from the wrong method? Don't overcomplicate it.
__________________
"We hang around people who think these activities are normal."
"Me and gravity, we are really, really good friends." - Streetbike Tommy, Nitro Circus
"I'm a dude in his mid-40s, who acts likes he's in his 20's. But I don't plan on stopping any time soon." - Ken Block
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Old 06-10-2006, 12:59 PM   #748
murgatroid42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shair_Khan
You are right! I think I will follow your lead and just change the front first and see the difference. I do a lot of street riding too, so don't want to make a huge difference at the top end too.

What were your usual shiftpoints before making this change from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th to 5th and what are they now?
I am getting a little confused. You said you had power wheelies in first (is this bad?). Putting a 14 countersprocket will make all the gears lower. It should wheelie more. For dirt, you want to lower the gears, so don't worry about wheelies. Shift points are irrelevant, just ride the gear that feels best at the time. I shift at 15, 30, 40, and 50, or can run at 45 in 5th if it is level and I'm lazy. Honda's manual recommends even lower shift points. It can run low RPM's, let that torque work for you.

Pics stolen from inte, taken at neduro's dualsport clinic:




I don't want to be hard on you, n00b, but your questions are easily answered by a search. thumpertalk.com, 4strokes.com, many other XR/XRL sites, parts pricing at rockymountainatv.com, ronayers.com (microfische, too), servicehonda.com, ebay, etc. You will get hours of opinions, more than you can get here. Try it.

Oh, welcome to the asylum. But keeping asking simple (i.e., easily searchable) questions here, or in Jo Momma and you will find out quickly why they call this place the asylum.
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"We hang around people who think these activities are normal."
"Me and gravity, we are really, really good friends." - Streetbike Tommy, Nitro Circus
"I'm a dude in his mid-40s, who acts likes he's in his 20's. But I don't plan on stopping any time soon." - Ken Block
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Old 06-10-2006, 02:35 PM   #749
Mr Kawasaki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katbeanz
I wish I would have had you swing a leg over my ole turd at SLAP, it's been massaged a bit, but is needing freshened up. Nice meeting you Mr. K, can you use a 140 enduro comp 3 for soft terrain, dot legal. I'm scared of it myself, looks too much like the old dunlop 990, those lasted about 20 miles at chadwick.
I have a brand new set of Avon Gripsters at the shop that will be going on in a few days. Knobbies are really unnecessary for the type of riding I do. I can't believe how different the XR is from the KLR. The XR is so much more balanced (more centralized mass I suppose). The KLR feels like a cruiser in comparison.
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Old 06-10-2006, 02:46 PM   #750
Mr Kawasaki
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I have a couple of observations I'd like to point out.

I bought one of these (Acerbis DHH headlight)....



...and it sucks. The light output is terrible and I can't seem to get it adjusted so that the light is actually on the road instead of in the trees. I guess I will use it to pass the inspection and go ahead and order the 8" trailtech.

The Corbin seat feels great so far. I haven't ridden very much yet but I can still tell a big difference from the stock seat.

The Supertrapp exhaust is freaking loud but for some reason I really like it.
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