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Old 02-15-2009, 11:06 AM   #16
goswiftly
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Nickel City
Oddometer: 164
I'm 5'11" about 220lb. I just did the progressive springs yesterday, I used 15wt fork oil. I have to say that so far it feels really good. I cut my stock spacers at 2-1/8". Now the rear feels a bit soft. Its going to have to do for now, I've spent waaay too much on farkle this winter!
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:31 PM   #17
Rattletrap
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Heart of Dixie
Oddometer: 302
I really disliked the front-end on my 07, and run with 10lbs of air in the forks to keep them from diving. I ordered the progressive springs and wound up putting the air back in, so I have the emulators ordered and should be in next week, I'll post up how they do.

Ordered the Race tec emulators from Cogent Dynamics, the price was $149.
Supposedly they have a killer rear shock, thats next on the list, $600 though.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:32 PM   #18
dieinthedirt
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Location: Dawson City, Yukon, Canada
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air does the trick

i've been running 25-30 psi in the forks for the past 2 years, jumping and riding hard offroad. also 15w fork oil as well, just to convince anybody that ait in the forks does not blow seals. only way that can happen if the suspension is completely bottomed out hard! the longer spacers can be a pain to install since the caps are very fine thread.:
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:51 PM   #19
Beezer
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As was said before.... set the oil level to 170mm from the top.... that will improve things as much as anything else. Remove the springs & collapse the forks.... add oil to get 170. I ran 165mm (10 wt. Belray) and 10 psi with a fork brace.... works good & I'm a big guy.
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Old 02-16-2009, 01:39 AM   #20
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbuds
I am a 150# rider that is looking for some suspension improvement for a bike that sees some washboard and rocky dirt roads in the west and occasionally something more technical. How can I get the most bang for the buck?
Jerry
Trade it for a dirtier D/S.
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Old 02-16-2009, 04:08 PM   #21
fixer
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Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Lost Wage$, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget Boy
I was reading an article on Fred's site (www.arrowheadmotorsports.com) about the cartridge emulators and how you really have to fine tune the installation of these emulators to get the best setup. I'm afraid to plunk down the money and not be able to optimize the installation..

Does anyone have a link to a detailed installation, preferably with pics?
here's an install on an R100 GS. while it's not a KLR, the procedure is similar.
http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling...lve/index.html

you'll have to pull apart the forks and drill new oil passages in the stanchion tubes. same job as installing new fork seals, except for the drilling. good time to install new fork seals if needed. factory oil seals seem to be preferred. "Leakproof" brand are anything but.

you'll want a magnet or parts grabber for when you fish the Gold Valves out of the forks to adjust them. to do that you just need to remove the fork cap, spacer and spring then you can remove the valve.

i've gotta get them for my street bike when the budget permits. it needs the forks rebuilt anyway.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:01 PM   #22
JSEARS
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Marysville CA
Oddometer: 324
I am 190lbs 6foot

2008 KLR

Have a 465 w/RAP on the rear, want to rework the front to match better.

Already have a Eagle Brace and PS springs

Money is no problem...Yes I have one of those 13K+ KLRs!

Looking at Emulators and Oil weight?

What is this about drilling?
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:42 AM   #23
hoyks
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Location: SE Qld.au
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The fork tubes have small holes in them that control the flow of oil and thus provide the damping.

When installing emulators, the emulator will be the new way of controlling the flow of oil so the small holes in the tube are carefully by-passed... with the aid of a 1/2" drill.

Ricor make a similar drop in valve that uses a lighter weight oil and needs no drilling.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:08 AM   #24
PWRCRZR
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSEARS View Post
I am 190lbs 6foot

2008 KLR

Have a 465 w/RAP on the rear, want to rework the front to match better.

Already have a Eagle Brace and PS springs

Money is no problem...Yes I have one of those 13K+ KLRs!

Looking at Emulators and Oil weight?

What is this about drilling?

No worries the drilling is easy and fully explained in the instructions.

With the other mods you already have this will be the final piece to the puzzle..

I agree on the 15w comments above...depends on bike load
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:58 AM   #25
Beezer
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Ricor valves will totally blow your mind. I've had them in my bike a couple years. ATF and Marvel mixed 50/50 is real close to Belray 5wt. works good.
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:12 PM   #26
nakedwaterskier
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Oddometer: 263
The cheapest fix is to add some air to the front forks. Don't do more than 10 psi.
Next is the Progressive springs.

MOST USE ATF NOW BECAUSE IT IS CHEAPER, EASIER TO FIND, AND WORKS
FINE.

Many get puzzled how much fluid to use. The easy answer/method, is measure how much came
out and put the same back in.

My rear shock wore out. So I got a 2009 model rear shock with 12k miles on it and added an Eibach spring.
The small Harbor F. Mcpherson strut compressor costs less than $16 and does the job though I had
to grind the claws a little.

My suspension works great and it cost me $40 for used Progressive springs, $100 for Late model rear shock, $100 for rear Eibach spring, $11 for strut compressor, $4 Tranny fluid.

You can easily spend $1000 but it only cost me $255
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:58 PM   #27
subybaja
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Anchorage (Spenard)
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Quote:
Many get puzzled how much fluid to use. The easy answer/method, is measure how much came out and put the same back in.
That assumes the wrench-monkey that assembled the bike or the DSPO got it right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer
set the oil level to 170mm from the top.... that will improve things as much as anything else. Remove the springs & collapse the forks.... add oil to get 170.
Is this really so difficult? Beezer's been in a LOT of forks, many new, and most of them were way off.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:45 PM   #28
PWRCRZR
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Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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I dealt with Jay at Suspensions by Sasquatch when I blew my rear KLR shock. He rebuilt my shock and hooked me up with Race tech springs and ricor valves... I added a fork brace and wow it is like a whole new bike

any how if anyone has any suspension issues I suggest you contact Jay, he is a great guy to deal with and a fellow inmate.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:49 PM   #29
JSEARS
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Marysville CA
Oddometer: 324
Suspension Update

Rear: Progressive 465 w/RAP

Front: Progressive Springs, Race Tech Emulators, 10w PJ1, Eagle Brace

Result....Fantastic on/off road ride
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:14 PM   #30
farrington300
No wait....What?
 
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: vista CA
Oddometer: 512
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSEARS View Post
Suspension Update

Rear: Progressive 465 w/RAP

Front: Progressive Springs, Race Tech Emulators, 10w PJ1, Eagle Brace

Result....Fantastic on/off road ride
Hey jsears, on your shock where is your preload set and how much sag do you run. I am thinking about getting this shock, but I am worried that the spring is too stiff for my weight. Figured I would ask since I am close to you in weight.
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