Highland Motors

[GreaseSnake]

Originally Posted by nsx

I'll reposition the front sprocket. Thanks. I hate having to replace the Ohlins shock, but with no linkage I guess there is no other option. What shock did you use to lower the rear? How much shorter? Does this make a noticeable difference in seat height?

I used a shorter shock from WP, mine had WP as standard.

Source another Öhlins but a sorter one?

So, how to figure out what a shorter shock will do in seat height;

Measure the distance between swing arm bearing centre, where the swing arm is connected to the main frame, and back to the point where the rear shock is bolted to the swingarm. Note it down.
(A)
Then;
measure the distance between the swing arm bearing centre to rear wheel axle centre.
(B)

Divide the last (longer, "B" ) distance with the first (shorter "A").
You get a factor.

Multiply every inch (or whatever you use for measurement) of shorter shock with this factor.

Example. First measure, "A" = 11", second, "B" = 27"

27/11 = 2,545(ish)

You find a 0,4" shorter shock; 0,4 X 2,545 = 0.98"

So a 0,4" shorter shock will drop the arse close 1".

NOTE! These are just made up figures, got no swing arm to do the right stuff...
But a shorter shock will always drop the rear more than the less in shock length.


Geometry is a blast

The rest is just math...;
"I wanna drop the rear X inch"
OK!
So B / A is how you get the factor and;
X / Factor = how much shorter your shock need to be.

Hope you get the idea mate



There is a third alternative but it is WAY more work. Cut the mouting point for the shock on the swing arm, move it backwards and weld it back. Will probably interfere with the tanks on the newer bikes, but this is something I've also tried on my 2000 bike.

[John in Leeds]

Some pics of our ride in the Yorkshire Dales




What better on the day of the all pervasive Royal Wedding than an escape to the Yorkshire Dales on my Highland. Many thanks to Dave for camera holding and John for giving me a lift with the bike after a gentle 'tactical dismount'. Sadly the pics don't do the ride justice to the terrain we took the bikes on but Heidi looked after the old guy very well, her accomplishments more than making up for her riders distinct lack of talent.

[nsx]

I have done this before, but I don't remember how. I presume they're like air line disconnects but so far I've been unsuccessful in getting them to separate and I'm afraid of breaking something. Do you push, pull, twist or some combination? I imagine both John and Greasesnake are quite good at this.

Thanks for any info (and cautions) on the proper procedure.

[John in Leeds]

Robert, you push the connector collar away from the elbow bend towards the the rubber pipe. If you can twist the connector at the same time it generally comes away quite easily. Just be very carefull not to apply too much force to the plastic pipe as it will break where it joins the tank.

If you can wait till tomorrow I'll post a couple of how to pictures as I have a connector and pump in my spares.

Funny but my Guzzi has just the same set up, good for spares eh?

John

[John in Leeds]

Hi Robert, let's hope this will make things a little clearer.

Below you can see the fuel line quick release connector, the spigot pipe from the fuel pump and (in red) a broken spigot pipe.



The connected quick release coupling.

The grey collar needs to be pressed gently to the right compressing the coupling for the coupling to release.



If you have a set of fine nosed grips you can set them to press the grey coupling without touching the white spigot pipe




Firmly squeeeze the grey collar onto the coupling supporting the pipe with your other hand. It is important not to apply to much pressure to the spigot as it will break if the coupling is not squarely compressed




A little gentle pressure will see the coupling come free, generally surprisingly easily if the collar is correctly compressed.

Good luck mate

[nsx]

Thanks, John. The problem I was having was that it took a lot of force to get mine to separate, more than I wanted to exert until I was sure I was applying the force in the right direction. They hadn't been apart in years.

[Thumber]

Hi

Friday 13:th.... Clutchcable broke on the highway on my way to work today. Luckily the spare was already on the bike, parallell to the one in use. (Old offroader trick that I picked up) I actutally made it through the morning traffic jams, two roundabouts, three big road junctions and across the tram tracks all the way to the parkingspace at work without the clutch. Good news is that I did not need tools to dismaount the old or put the new one in. All done by hand in less than 5 minutes. Bad news is that the cable only lasted some 5000km:s and there seems to be a problem to get hold of a new one.... Any one sitting on a spare or know a source for new ones?

/TF

[John in Leeds]

Seems like the originals are just not up to the job. Earlier posts have had a look I think but how about this

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ntrolcable.php

make a up a few

[Assfault]

Motion Pro can make any cable you need. Reasonably priced as well and top quality.

[nsx]

Originally Posted by GreaseSnake

I used a shorter shock from WP, mine had WP as standard.

Source another Öhlins but a sorter one?
...

There is a third alternative but it is WAY more work. Cut the mouting point for the shock on the swing arm, move it backwards and weld it back. Will probably interfere with the tanks on the newer bikes, but this is something I've also tried on my 2000 bike.

Since you have some experience doing this, how much can I lower the bike without messing something up? Specifically, what length WP shock did you use? I can have the forks shortened. I can also have the frame geometry altered if necessary. In fact, I already altered it, but in the wrong direction. The person repairing it, who alters frame geometry for race teams, says he can make it whatever I want. He also asked if I could find out what the original specs were for the frame geometry.

If I am willing to spend the money to make the alterations, what would you recommend? This will never go offroad, so I don't have to be concerned about ground clearance, but for rough roads I would like to keep as much of the suspension travel as I can. I can get on my Husqvarna SM610 (barely), so it can be that tall, but lower would better.

[GreaseSnake]

Originally Posted by nsx

Since you have some experience doing this, how much can I lower the bike without messing something up? Specifically, what length WP shock did you use? I can have the forks shortened. I can also have the frame geometry altered if necessary. In fact, I already altered it, but in the wrong direction. The person repairing it, who alters frame geometry for race teams, says he can make it whatever I want. He also asked if I could find out what the original specs were for the frame geometry.

If I am willing to spend the money to make the alterations, what would you recommend? This will never go offroad, so I don't have to be concerned about ground clearance, but for rough roads I would like to keep as much of the suspension travel as I can. I can get on my Husqvarna SM610 (barely), so it can be that tall, but lower would better.

I had no problems getting my feet down, and I have a 30" inseam (almost 5ft 7")

Think my saddle was approx 3" lower than stock motard

I'd lower the front triple clamps/yokes and go for a shorter shock. You can lower it more in the rear than front to keep the angles like the 21-18" Outback line.

So; source a shorter shock. How much shorter is up to your own needs/calculations which I explained earlier.

[Thumber]

Hi again

Next wire broke today. This time the speedometer wire broke just above the hub of the weel. Does anyone know if this is stock, KTM, Husa, Suzuki.... or special highland design?

I know the speed anyways but now i can not find out when it is time to visit the petrol station.

/TF

[950v2]

Why do you do this repair?
How do you know when the torque limiter is not working?

Originally Posted by John in Leeds

Nice simple repair, should have posted this before. If Kurt wants me to remove this extract from the Highland assembly instructions I will

[950v2]

Originally Posted by Thumber

Hi again

Next wire broke today. This time the speedometer wire broke just above the hub of the weel. Does anyone know if this is stock, KTM, Husa, Suzuki.... or special highland design?

I know the speed anyways but now i can not find out when it is time to visit the petrol station.

/TF

Last time I broke the speedo-wire I just bought a Universal speedo-wire kit, just the inner wire, and cut it to the right length. It comes with a standardnipple that fits. Number 20-154 alt www.lellesmcdelar.se or 69-6154 at www.touringbutiken.se

[John in Leeds]

Originally Posted by 950v2

Why do you do this repair?
How do you know when the torque limiter is not working?

Starter motor runs but will not turn the engine. Usually turns over once or twice then just labours. Makes you think the battery or starter motor is crocked. Good battery does not fix the problem.