the DR650 thread

[Django Loco]

Originally Posted by rallyhound

.


Any gas station with an automotive tire machine can break the bead for you in 5 seconds.

Tire shops have tire machines. Very few gas stations with any sort of shop around here these days. Not sure I'd trust the average Tire monkey to break down a moto tire ... but I know it can be done. I've had it done in Mexico a couple times no problem. Here, most guys want no part of it and won't help. YMMV.

No worries, I've got friends nearby in several local shops. I'll have to wait till Tuesday however!

[PAL]

Went for a trip to the Flinders Ranges in South Australia over Easter.

[DAKEZ]

Originally Posted by procycle

All you need to do to take advantage of removing the snorkel is to put a .030" washer under the needle clip.

Originally Posted by Django Loco

What are you confused about?
What the washer does is eliminate the typical off idle lean stumble
which may now be more pronounced with removed snorkle.
Also will richen just slightly the idle to 1/4 throttle range. All good.
Main jet and Pilot jet can remain the same.

Lastly, your MPG will drop slightly but is well worth it, IMO.

I have a theory about why the fuel economy suffers. That wonderful deep throaty sound from the air-box mod sounds so damn good that I am constantly pinning the throttle.

[bikingreenie]

Originally Posted by Django Loco

Thanks for the tip but the 'ol side stand trick is not going to cut it this time.
My technique above flattens the tire completely and squashes a much wider area than the side stand would.

"C" Clamps might work if big enough. Mine are too small and wimpy. I'm still thinking on this and I WILL figure it out .... one way or another

I've never seen a tire this stubborn!

Looks like you've gone to a lot of trouble already.... but how about mounting the wheel back up and riding on it with no air in it! ...just a thought.

[PAL]

http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/Products/bb105.htm

or make some yourself.

[napster]

Originally Posted by Django Loco

Thanks for the tip but the 'ol side stand trick is not going to cut it this time.
My technique above flattens the tire completely and squashes a much wider area than the side stand would.

"C" Clamps might work if big enough. Mine are too small and wimpy. I'm still thinking on this and I WILL figure it out .... one way or another

I've never seen a tire this stubborn!

Tin snips?/hacksaw. Just a thought.

[plugeye]

Originally Posted by Skitch

Well, I removed the OEM 15T sprocket today and replaced it with a 14T unit from TPI. I ran the bike with the cover off to look at things (bike up on center stand), and I am concerned with the way the chain goes around this new sprocket. Didn't look quite right, and more specifically, looked like the chain links were off just a bit as it met the the sprocket. Made a bit of a racket as well. Chain is OEM. Both rear sprocket and chain have just over 6k miles on them. Is this normal or do I have a problem? As I type this I also wonder, could runing it on center stand caused the problem (skewed geometry with rear wheel hanging)?

are you sure the 14t is a 525 & not a 520?

On a positive note, I did mount up a set of Mefo Explorers today. Look good. Get in a test ride when I get this sprocket thing figured out.

One other item. As i was putting the bike back together, i was surprised by the light torque settings of the countersprocket bolts and the front axel pinch bolts. I assume everyone runs the factory tourque settings, but once again, they did seem light from what I've had on other bikes.

cs bolts are tiny & only secure the retaining plate to the cs. like many others, i use a clip instead of bolts & plate. front axle pinch bolts are tiny too, no need for anything bigger

[plugeye]

Originally Posted by Django Loco

Thanks for the tip but the 'ol side stand trick is not going to cut it this time.
My technique above flattens the tire completely and squashes a much wider area than the side stand would.

"C" Clamps might work if big enough. Mine are too small and wimpy. I'm still thinking on this and I WILL figure it out .... one way or another

I've never seen a tire this stubborn!

just changed my rear yesterday, tried a short board on the tire & long board levered stuck between truck tire & street. failed. finally big c-clamp worked, along with wd40. the kickstand trick sounds great, use a big-assed street bike if you have one.

[Skitch]

Originally Posted by plugeyes

cs bolts are tiny & only secure the retaining plate to the cs. like many others, i use a clip instead of bolts & plate. front axle pinch bolts are tiny too, no need for anything bigger

are you sure the 14t is a 525 & not a 520?


Thanks for the info. Visually, how do you tell the difference between the a 520 and a 525 sprocket?
I had that same concern and couldn't find the info on the packaging. I'll have to take a closer look at the packaging, but I think it did mention OEM somewhere on it, but I never did see any mention of 520 or 525.

As for the clip, what's the advantage over the stock set-up? I've had clips on pure dirtbikes. I figured this setup is for some kind of dampening to help keep the bike more streetable. I was really surprised to see all the rubber in the drivetrain (engine sprocket and rear wheel hub).

[Lil' Steve]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92961

I have a bead breaker similar to this and havent encountered a bead I couldnt break. The curved portion of the tool puts way more force on breaking the bead than a 2x4. If you have a Harbor Freight store near you it's worth checking out. This takes up way less space than their tire changer and doesnt have to be bolted down.

[plugeye]

Originally Posted by Skitch

are you sure the 14t is a 525 & not a 520?


Thanks for the info. Visually, how do you tell the difference between the a 520 and a 525 sprocket?
I had that same concern and couldn't find the info on the packaging. I'll have to take a closer look at the packaging, but I think it did mention OEM somewhere on it, but I never did see any mention of 520 or 525.

has the same pitch, 525 is a little wider:

http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/page/578189


As for the clip, what's the advantage over the stock set-up? I've had clips on pure dirtbikes. I figured this setup is for some kind of dampening to help keep the bike more streetable. I was really surprised to see all the rubber in the drivetrain (engine sprocket and rear wheel hub).

advantage is ease of swapping/ less time/ less tools. ride to the trails/ swap.

[sandwash]

A 520 is thinner than the 525,the links are the same lenght.You can run a 525 chain on a 520 sprokets( I would not do unless I had to),but you can not run a 520 chain on a 525 sprocket

[Skitch]

Originally Posted by sandwash

A 520 is thinner than the 525,the links are the same lenght.You can run a 525 chain on a 520 sprokets( I would not do unless I had to),but you can not run a 520 chain on a 525 sprocket

I confirmed that the sprocket I have is for a stock 525 chain. The sprocket i have is a JTF1448.14. Anyway, I have the bike all bolted back together now. Got some chores to get done, but then I'll give her a test ride.

To be honest, I never ran the bike up on the center stand before. It may have always been this noisy, even with the 15t sprocket. I'll put some miles on today, with my helmet on, and see if I hear anything different.

Thanks for the help.

[CaptTurbo]

[quote=Skitch]Well, I removed the OEM 15T sprocket today and replaced it with a 14T unit from TPI. I ran the bike with the cover off to look at things (bike up on center stand), and I am concerned with the way the chain goes around this new sprocket. Didn't look quite right, and more specifically, looked like the chain links were off just a bit as it met the the sprocket. Made a bit of a racket as well. Chain is OEM. Both rear sprocket and chain have just over 6k miles on them. Is this normal or do I have a problem? As I type this I also wonder, could runing it on center stand caused the problem (skewed geometry with rear wheel hanging)?


I ran a 14t JT on my DR for a while. When it was stock and so embarrassingly weak, the 15 toother was just no fun. The poor thing couldn't lift her front foot with roll on throttle. The 14 worked OK and I didn't hear any new noises with it.

A side note here: I do my chain lubes with the DR on the center stand running in first gear and the chain does a really funky dance with all that slack in it.

Then I went to the FCR (after the dyno-jet thing) and I put the stocker 15 back on. I have enough juice now to lift her in second with a twiist only ... unless my Safari super tanker is full.

[Kurlee]

Originally Posted by CaptTurbo

Then I went to the FCR (after the dyno-jet thing) and I put the stocker 15 back on. I have enough juice now to lift her in second with a twiist only ... unless my Safari super tanker is full.

I don't think I could ever bring the front end up in second... Even with the FCR and exhaust. The only way it will go up in first is between 10-15 mph. What speed to you bring it up in sencond?