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Old 11-14-2009, 05:35 PM   #29116
Cyclepath
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Location: SW Washington, USA
Oddometer: 359
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
So you don't think that having the torque at 3000rpm that the stock bike does at peak (5000rpm) is useful?

Dynojet kit + open pipe.
do you have a dyno chart to back up that statement ?

cyclepath
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68 Honda express, 50cc
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:39 PM   #29117
ChromeSux
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Location: Lenoir City TN.
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shock leaking

came in this afternoon from a ride noticed rear shock leaking oil, 2003, bike only has 2500 miles on it i guess it will have to be reworked, who do you guys recommend.
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:41 PM   #29118
Elvis70
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Location: Fayetteville, AR
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What needs to be done?

I rode my DR into a river a little too deep today and drowed it out. Filled the Airbox full. Made the mistake of cranking it too before draining. Did get it started after draining the box, intermediate intake plumbing and carb bowl. Must of run a fair amount of water through the engine. It did run only at idle for quite awhile but finally dried out enough to ride home. It runs superb now.

What do I need to do? Hate to take apart the carb, but was thinking of just running some seafoam through it? Anything a must?

This is the crossing. War Eagle River near Withrow Springs State Park in NW Arkansas U.S.A.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:07 PM   #29119
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclepath
do you have a dyno chart to back up that statement ?

cyclepath
Damn. It's actually 3,500rpm.
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:13 PM   #29120
Blake Kennedy
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Tasmania, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
Damn. It's actually 3,500rpm.

ZING! haha
Sold me!
I will order a dynojet kit stage 2 from my local dealer.
Also can some one tell me which bash plates out of the B&B or the Whipp's which one is Better?? I have had Whipps before and thought it was great.
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:21 PM   #29121
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Cry

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFrenchCanadian
So where did you get the idea that conventional dino juice breaks down at 220*? I just read through the article you quoted and found this:

"Even the best petroleum oils will have flash points only as high as 390 and 440 degrees F. Some actually have flashpoints as low as 350 degrees...
...Just about any synthetic you come across will have a flashpoint over 440 degrees. Premium synthetics can have flashpoints over 450 degrees with some even reaching as high as 500 degrees."

Couldn't find any mention of 220* anywhere in that article. You'll notice the numbers given are only about 60* apart if you compare premium dino oil to premium synthetic & in the end, there is little difference between premium conventional oil and a low end synthetic. I think that the 220* figure is way too low & the numbers quoted in the article are probably closer to the truth.

Don't get me wrong, I'm a believer in synthetics too, been running nothing but in all my bikes for the last 15 years. I use them primarily because I like how smooth shifting they make my bikes and the fact they resist breakdown from running through the gearbox, which is something that doesn't occur in a vehicle with a separate engine/transmission. The higher flashpoint is simply a bonus.

Just my $0.02
TFC
One of the advantages of the internet is the immediate correction of bad info. I switched to full synthetics many years ago and the memory is the first to go. Apparently I've subtracted 200* off of the safe operating temp. of dino oils.

I didn't read the linked article, just googled for reference for those wondering about temperature boundaries on the DR.

One of the disadvantages of the internet is getting nailed for posting inaccurate information.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-14-2009 at 07:34 PM
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:39 PM   #29122
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvis70
What do I need to do? Hate to take apart the carb, but was thinking of just running some seafoam through it? Anything a must?
Check the oil.

You're very, very lucky.
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:54 PM   #29123
mackerdoo
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Joined: Oct 2009
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ck oil

+1 on oil. if not milky probably ok. no need to go through carb,you said its runnin, fine.relax....

mackerdoo screwed with this post 11-14-2009 at 08:00 PM
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:07 PM   #29124
Elvis70
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I did look at the oil when I got home

Quote:
Originally Posted by mackerdoo
+1 on oil. if not milky probably ok. no need to go through carb,you said its runnin, fine.relax....
Didn't look milky but will check it again tomorrow in better lighting. Might change it anyway to be safe. I sunk a brand new 70 cc 4 wheeler upside down in a pond when I was a little kid. Oil looked like milk and never ran right, always smoked. Bad thing was it was my cousin's Christmas present and he hadn't seen it yet. We drained the gas and pushed it home and tried to play dumb. Man did I get in trouble for that.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:25 PM   #29125
Elvis70
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Now I am a little worried

There is now condensation in the oil glass window, although oil appears normal. However upon removing the cap and looking in I could see some frothy white stuff looks like beer foam on surface just below the lid above the oil level.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:31 PM   #29126
Cyclepath
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Location: SW Washington, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake Kennedy
ZING! haha
Sold me!
I will order a dynojet kit stage 2 from my local dealer.
Also can some one tell me which bash plates out of the B&B or the Whipp's which one is Better?? I have had Whipps before and thought it was great.
you are right at 3,500 rpm. total torgue improvement at 5000 rpm is only 3.79. not to impressive. what is your fuel mileage at for such a small improvement.
__________________
Age is just a number !

Bikes i own......
08 DR650
93 gl1500 aspencade
80 gl 1100, naked
03 TW200
94 TW200
73 Bultaco Alpina
?? Montesa cota 25
68 Honda express, 50cc
68 Honda CT-90
?? Suzuki TS-90
82 Honda CX500 custom
80 Honda CX 500 deluxe
2000 Kawasaki W650
80? Junk Honda Shadow
Green Mountain Vintage Cycle Restorations
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:05 PM   #29127
Krusty ...
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux
came in this afternoon from a ride noticed rear shock leaking oil, 2003, bike only has 2500 miles on it i guess it will have to be reworked, who do you guys recommend.
Strange that it's leaking with so few miles. Positive it's the shock? Is it acting differently?


Shoot a PM to NC Rick. I'm thinking Cogent Dynamics can help you out if it needs work.
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:10 PM   #29128
GSsser
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Small gas leak from carburetor vent hose.

A bit of gas is dripping from the carburetor vent hose when the bike sits in the garage. Its not much, but still...
The bike is tuned up well, starts and works perfectly. Any ideas?
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:26 PM   #29129
jenx
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Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inprogress
So I think I know why I am experiencing my engine

Howzit boet

What about procycle's 720 conversion? It does involve a compression increase - but not substantial.

BTW ... I just bought another dr (an 07), after flogging the previous one in July. I just couldn't get the dr out of my system!!

This is an import from the US (thanks guys! ) - so it has that farking ugly rear tail light. But it's much better assembled than my old black dr. Just 100km on the clock!!!

I've already done all the basic fixes. Considering some of procycles stuff as well

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Old 11-14-2009, 10:00 PM   #29130
Buckaroo Banzai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake Kennedy
Where would I get a good price on a dynojet kit delivered to Aus from?
Are there different models? i.e jet sizes?
The dynojet kit doesn't come with much. It believe it's about 4 main jets and the needle with the eclip.

If I were going to do it again, I would probably just get the needle from KTM, that allows you to move it up and down with the eclip.

And find out what the dynojet convert to in the mikuni jets.

That is an option that is much cheaper.
MX rob did a needle comparison a while back. So you could could check there for some more information.

I believe you could just use the mikuni main jet with the KTM needle and end up with the same results and a whole lot cheaper.

Correct me if I'm wrong .. But I think the KTM needle and mikuni jets will work.
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