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Old 11-14-2009, 09:07 PM   #29116
Elvis70
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Location: Fayetteville, AR
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I did look at the oil when I got home

Quote:
Originally Posted by mackerdoo
+1 on oil. if not milky probably ok. no need to go through carb,you said its runnin, fine.relax....
Didn't look milky but will check it again tomorrow in better lighting. Might change it anyway to be safe. I sunk a brand new 70 cc 4 wheeler upside down in a pond when I was a little kid. Oil looked like milk and never ran right, always smoked. Bad thing was it was my cousin's Christmas present and he hadn't seen it yet. We drained the gas and pushed it home and tried to play dumb. Man did I get in trouble for that.
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:25 PM   #29117
Elvis70
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Now I am a little worried

There is now condensation in the oil glass window, although oil appears normal. However upon removing the cap and looking in I could see some frothy white stuff looks like beer foam on surface just below the lid above the oil level.
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:31 PM   #29118
Cyclepath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake Kennedy
ZING! haha
Sold me!
I will order a dynojet kit stage 2 from my local dealer.
Also can some one tell me which bash plates out of the B&B or the Whipp's which one is Better?? I have had Whipps before and thought it was great.
you are right at 3,500 rpm. total torgue improvement at 5000 rpm is only 3.79. not to impressive. what is your fuel mileage at for such a small improvement.
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:05 PM   #29119
Krusty ...
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
Oddometer: 7,596
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux
came in this afternoon from a ride noticed rear shock leaking oil, 2003, bike only has 2500 miles on it i guess it will have to be reworked, who do you guys recommend.
Strange that it's leaking with so few miles. Positive it's the shock? Is it acting differently?


Shoot a PM to NC Rick. I'm thinking Cogent Dynamics can help you out if it needs work.
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:10 PM   #29120
GSsser
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Small gas leak from carburetor vent hose.

A bit of gas is dripping from the carburetor vent hose when the bike sits in the garage. Its not much, but still...
The bike is tuned up well, starts and works perfectly. Any ideas?
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:26 PM   #29121
jenx
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Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inprogress
So I think I know why I am experiencing my engine

Howzit boet

What about procycle's 720 conversion? It does involve a compression increase - but not substantial.

BTW ... I just bought another dr (an 07), after flogging the previous one in July. I just couldn't get the dr out of my system!!

This is an import from the US (thanks guys! ) - so it has that farking ugly rear tail light. But it's much better assembled than my old black dr. Just 100km on the clock!!!

I've already done all the basic fixes. Considering some of procycles stuff as well

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Old 11-14-2009, 11:00 PM   #29122
Buckaroo Banzai
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Knoxville tn
Oddometer: 151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake Kennedy
Where would I get a good price on a dynojet kit delivered to Aus from?
Are there different models? i.e jet sizes?
The dynojet kit doesn't come with much. It believe it's about 4 main jets and the needle with the eclip.

If I were going to do it again, I would probably just get the needle from KTM, that allows you to move it up and down with the eclip.

And find out what the dynojet convert to in the mikuni jets.

That is an option that is much cheaper.
MX rob did a needle comparison a while back. So you could could check there for some more information.

I believe you could just use the mikuni main jet with the KTM needle and end up with the same results and a whole lot cheaper.

Correct me if I'm wrong .. But I think the KTM needle and mikuni jets will work.
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:42 PM   #29123
chrisbertaut
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"What do I need to do? Hate to take apart the carb, but was thinking of just running some seafoam through it? Anything a must?"


I had this happen to me last weekend, I went ahead and tore down the carb and found thin mud in the bowl and some dirt on the diaphragm... needless to say I was glad i did it. I also had a good bit of water get into the oil, 6 oil changes later she runs like a champ without a trace of water in it. I also learned to get the bike to operating temp between oil changes, thanks Chris (Rudolf35). I have also heard that diesel fuel or kerosene works well for removing water.

Good luck!
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:46 PM   #29124
Ralph64
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Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai
The dynojet kit doesn't come with much. It believe it's about 4 main jets and the needle with the eclip.

If I were going to do it again, I would probably just get the needle from KTM, that allows you to move it up and down with the eclip.

And find out what the dynojet convert to in the mikuni jets.

That is an option that is much cheaper.
MX rob did a needle comparison a while back. So you could could check there for some more information.

I believe you could just use the mikuni main jet with the KTM needle and end up with the same results and a whole lot cheaper.

Correct me if I'm wrong .. But I think the KTM needle and mikuni jets will work.

Which KTM needles? There are many. I have been playing with the Dynojet kit that I have had it since the bike was new, but just fitted and I think the needle profile too aggressive for my needs.
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Old 11-15-2009, 12:02 AM   #29125
Ralph64
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Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclepath
you are right at 3,500 rpm. total torgue improvement at 5000 rpm is only 3.79. not to impressive. what is your fuel mileage at for such a small improvement.
The improvement is not so much in the dyno numbers. It is in the response. Part throttle response is vastly improved.
There is a price to be paid in fuel consumption. My stock bike always gave 23-27km/l. The best that I have had from the DJ kit is 20km/l.
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:13 AM   #29126
Inprogress
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Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
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Jenks....I mean Jenx

Hey Jenx, I now know why you missed that DR so much....man these are just plain fun bikes.

I looked at that 720 kit, but sjoe, ou perd, that is a lot of money considering I paid R20k for her and didn't want to spend that much more. I'm actually quite happy with the performance at the moment, commuting for me still leaves me thinking that I'm gonna kill myself on the bike. And I didn't know the DR's have nikasil barrels...that is so cool. I come from a R80G/S boxer airhead with nikasil, and go to a DR650 airhead with nikasil, AWESOME!!! That is the other reason I am not in a rush to increase bore.

I actually just want to keep her going for as long as possible.

You say the USA DR's are better assembled, elaborate please mate

From my reading it sounds like I can get away with at least just gasket set and rings, but might as well do the piston as well from J&E. I think it leaves me at the higher compression conversion from J&E. Also, which sounds great, is the bike seems to run a bit smoother (I think the only time I'll buy a KTM is if I am sponsored, vibrations are a bit of a killer for me).

I also (this is the second time I did this kinda thing) stripped my auto chain tensioner cover bolt thread. NICE!!!!! There was just no indication as to the yield point.

In the mean time I'll just top up the oil and keep an eye on the usage, plus track down a compression tester and check if in fact there is a need.

Here is a pic of mine...well the best I have at the moment.

Photobucket



Quote:
Originally Posted by jenx
Howzit boet

What about procycle's 720 conversion? It does involve a compression increase - but not substantial.

BTW ... I just bought another dr (an 07), after flogging the previous one in July. I just couldn't get the dr out of my system!!

This is an import from the US (thanks guys! ) - so it has that farking ugly rear tail light. But it's much better assembled than my old black dr. Just 100km on the clock!!!

I've already done all the basic fixes. Considering some of procycles stuff as well
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:10 AM   #29127
jenx
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Oddometer: 553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inprogress
Hey Jenx, I now know why you missed that DR so much....man these are just plain fun bikes.
Howzit Inprogress

Glad you're enjoying the bike.

67K and still going strong. That's amazing!! I'm planning to do Baviaans next year. So I'll be in your part of the world. Probably middle/end of the year.

When I say better assembled I mean torqueing and basic post factory assembly. I also noticed the frame welding on my second bike is MUCH better than on the black dr. But that may just be luck of the draw. This bike's clutch and brake settings are way better than on my first dr (the black one) The box feels smoother - less cluncky.

All in all this second dr feels a lot more sorted than my first one. I don't think Suzuki SA did a very good job of assembly on my first bike.

Hey where were those pics taken? Looks like the langkloof area ... Nice!
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jenx screwed with this post 11-15-2009 at 08:35 AM
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:33 AM   #29128
mitchxout
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 543
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSsser
A bit of gas is dripping from the carburetor vent hose when the bike sits in the garage. Its not much, but still...
The bike is tuned up well, starts and works perfectly. Any ideas?
You might have a leaky diaghram.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:24 AM   #29129
procycle
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclepath
you are right at 3,500 rpm. total torgue improvement at 5000 rpm is only 3.79. not to impressive. what is your fuel mileage at for such a small improvement.
An 8% improvement from simple modifications isn't impressive??
It's quite comparable to switching from a 15T sprocket to a 14T sprocket which comes in at about a 7% increase in torque at the rear wheel.

Thinking of it another way, with the 3.79 ft/lb increase in torque your bike would accelerate faster with a 16T front sprocket than without the mods and stock gearing.

But the 8% increase is only part of the story. If you look at the graph the modified bike makes more torque from about 3500 rpm to almost 6000 rpm than it did at it's peak when all was stock. That's significantly more power over pretty much the whole usable power spread. If you could ride these back to back you would be shocked at the difference.
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Old 11-15-2009, 12:13 PM   #29130
Andyinhilo
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSsser
A bit of gas is dripping from the carburetor vent hose when the bike sits in the garage. Its not much, but still...
The bike is tuned up well, starts and works perfectly. Any ideas?
Leaky float needle and petcock set on "prime" or leaking.
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