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Old 11-14-2009, 10:42 PM   #29131
chrisbertaut
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"What do I need to do? Hate to take apart the carb, but was thinking of just running some seafoam through it? Anything a must?"


I had this happen to me last weekend, I went ahead and tore down the carb and found thin mud in the bowl and some dirt on the diaphragm... needless to say I was glad i did it. I also had a good bit of water get into the oil, 6 oil changes later she runs like a champ without a trace of water in it. I also learned to get the bike to operating temp between oil changes, thanks Chris (Rudolf35). I have also heard that diesel fuel or kerosene works well for removing water.

Good luck!
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:46 PM   #29132
Ralph64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai
The dynojet kit doesn't come with much. It believe it's about 4 main jets and the needle with the eclip.

If I were going to do it again, I would probably just get the needle from KTM, that allows you to move it up and down with the eclip.

And find out what the dynojet convert to in the mikuni jets.

That is an option that is much cheaper.
MX rob did a needle comparison a while back. So you could could check there for some more information.

I believe you could just use the mikuni main jet with the KTM needle and end up with the same results and a whole lot cheaper.

Correct me if I'm wrong .. But I think the KTM needle and mikuni jets will work.

Which KTM needles? There are many. I have been playing with the Dynojet kit that I have had it since the bike was new, but just fitted and I think the needle profile too aggressive for my needs.
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:02 PM   #29133
Ralph64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclepath
you are right at 3,500 rpm. total torgue improvement at 5000 rpm is only 3.79. not to impressive. what is your fuel mileage at for such a small improvement.
The improvement is not so much in the dyno numbers. It is in the response. Part throttle response is vastly improved.
There is a price to be paid in fuel consumption. My stock bike always gave 23-27km/l. The best that I have had from the DJ kit is 20km/l.
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Old 11-15-2009, 01:13 AM   #29134
Inprogress
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Jenks....I mean Jenx

Hey Jenx, I now know why you missed that DR so much....man these are just plain fun bikes.

I looked at that 720 kit, but sjoe, ou perd, that is a lot of money considering I paid R20k for her and didn't want to spend that much more. I'm actually quite happy with the performance at the moment, commuting for me still leaves me thinking that I'm gonna kill myself on the bike. And I didn't know the DR's have nikasil barrels...that is so cool. I come from a R80G/S boxer airhead with nikasil, and go to a DR650 airhead with nikasil, AWESOME!!! That is the other reason I am not in a rush to increase bore.

I actually just want to keep her going for as long as possible.

You say the USA DR's are better assembled, elaborate please mate

From my reading it sounds like I can get away with at least just gasket set and rings, but might as well do the piston as well from J&E. I think it leaves me at the higher compression conversion from J&E. Also, which sounds great, is the bike seems to run a bit smoother (I think the only time I'll buy a KTM is if I am sponsored, vibrations are a bit of a killer for me).

I also (this is the second time I did this kinda thing) stripped my auto chain tensioner cover bolt thread. NICE!!!!! There was just no indication as to the yield point.

In the mean time I'll just top up the oil and keep an eye on the usage, plus track down a compression tester and check if in fact there is a need.

Here is a pic of mine...well the best I have at the moment.

Photobucket



Quote:
Originally Posted by jenx
Howzit boet

What about procycle's 720 conversion? It does involve a compression increase - but not substantial.

BTW ... I just bought another dr (an 07), after flogging the previous one in July. I just couldn't get the dr out of my system!!

This is an import from the US (thanks guys! ) - so it has that farking ugly rear tail light. But it's much better assembled than my old black dr. Just 100km on the clock!!!

I've already done all the basic fixes. Considering some of procycles stuff as well
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:10 AM   #29135
jenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inprogress
Hey Jenx, I now know why you missed that DR so much....man these are just plain fun bikes.
Howzit Inprogress

Glad you're enjoying the bike.

67K and still going strong. That's amazing!! I'm planning to do Baviaans next year. So I'll be in your part of the world. Probably middle/end of the year.

When I say better assembled I mean torqueing and basic post factory assembly. I also noticed the frame welding on my second bike is MUCH better than on the black dr. But that may just be luck of the draw. This bike's clutch and brake settings are way better than on my first dr (the black one) The box feels smoother - less cluncky.

All in all this second dr feels a lot more sorted than my first one. I don't think Suzuki SA did a very good job of assembly on my first bike.

Hey where were those pics taken? Looks like the langkloof area ... Nice!
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:33 AM   #29136
mitchxout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSsser
A bit of gas is dripping from the carburetor vent hose when the bike sits in the garage. Its not much, but still...
The bike is tuned up well, starts and works perfectly. Any ideas?
You might have a leaky diaghram.
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:24 AM   #29137
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclepath
you are right at 3,500 rpm. total torgue improvement at 5000 rpm is only 3.79. not to impressive. what is your fuel mileage at for such a small improvement.
An 8% improvement from simple modifications isn't impressive??
It's quite comparable to switching from a 15T sprocket to a 14T sprocket which comes in at about a 7% increase in torque at the rear wheel.

Thinking of it another way, with the 3.79 ft/lb increase in torque your bike would accelerate faster with a 16T front sprocket than without the mods and stock gearing.

But the 8% increase is only part of the story. If you look at the graph the modified bike makes more torque from about 3500 rpm to almost 6000 rpm than it did at it's peak when all was stock. That's significantly more power over pretty much the whole usable power spread. If you could ride these back to back you would be shocked at the difference.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:13 AM   #29138
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSsser
A bit of gas is dripping from the carburetor vent hose when the bike sits in the garage. Its not much, but still...
The bike is tuned up well, starts and works perfectly. Any ideas?
Leaky float needle and petcock set on "prime" or leaking.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:28 AM   #29139
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclepath
you are right at 3,500 rpm. total torgue improvement at 5000 rpm is only 3.79. not to impressive. what is your fuel mileage at for such a small improvement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
An 8% improvement from simple modifications isn't impressive??
It's quite comparable to switching from a 15T sprocket to a 14T sprocket which comes in at about a 7% increase in torque at the rear wheel.

Thinking of it another way, with the 3.79 ft/lb increase in torque your bike would accelerate faster with a 16T front sprocket than without the mods and stock gearing.

But the 8% increase is only part of the story. If you look at the graph the modified bike makes more torque from about 3500 rpm to almost 6000 rpm than it did at it's peak when all was stock. That's significantly more power over pretty much the whole usable power spread. If you could ride these back to back you would be shocked at the difference.
What he said

That graph was when I only had the DynoJet kit, airbox top and SuperTrapp done.

Effectively pulls from 3,500 like a stock bike does at peak.

I'm getting just over 20km/L in normal stop/start usage around town. Up to 22km/L in the hills/adventuring.

We did a 500km gravel adventure ride on Sat and the Avon Gripster rear was not very nice on gravel but I doubled someone out through some quite rough terrain and was amazed how it handled it engine wise and tyre wise. The extra weight pushed the tyre into the ground and it gripped the best it'd done all day.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:33 AM   #29140
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai
The dynojet kit doesn't come with much. It believe it's about 4 main jets and the needle with the eclip.

If I were going to do it again, I would probably just get the needle from KTM, that allows you to move it up and down with the eclip.

And find out what the dynojet convert to in the mikuni jets.

That is an option that is much cheaper.
MX rob did a needle comparison a while back. So you could could check there for some more information.

I believe you could just use the mikuni main jet with the KTM needle and end up with the same results and a whole lot cheaper.

Correct me if I'm wrong .. But I think the KTM needle and mikuni jets will work.
The KTM needle is the best for the unmodified stock airbox.

The DJ kit came with 150, 155, 160 jets down here. I think the yanks get 165, 170 added.

The DJ 150 is the same as the stock Mikuni.

150 is too lean for any sort of modding and 170 is too rich for any sort of modding.
What more do you need?
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:54 AM   #29141
Inprogress
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenx
Howzit Inprogress

Glad you're enjoying the bike.

67K and still going strong. That's amazing!! I'm planning to do Baviaans next year. So I'll be in your part of the world. Probably middle/end of the year.

Hey where were those pics taken? Looks like the langkloof area ... Nice!
As far as I know its the Langkloof area, not so sure actually, I just know its the Elandsrevier road. Went up to the radio tower. Well spotted though. I saw some of the pics on the WD forum with that picture threat about spotting the location, and it made me realize I haven't traveled enough. SO.....now I want to do as little wrenching as possible and as much riding as permitted. No more big rebuilds and restorations, unless I have everything I need already purchased and waiting and have two solid weeks of just concentrating on the tear down and assembly.

When you come down I might join you, haven't done the Baviaans actually . Yes I know. My last ride was about a year ago. The PE Mystery ride. Eversince then I got into an R80 and then a restoration and now I'm gatvol and just want to get on a bike, press that happy button and go.

Happy trails.
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Old 11-15-2009, 01:51 PM   #29142
tjoseph
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It's cream

Yea, it's useful. In about 2% of my riding. But I find that I'm rarely in need of peak torque. For my particular style of riding, my bike rarely gets to wide open throttle. I'd spend money on handling mods, better tires, and lots of other items before I'd go looking for more power from the bike, particularly if that bit of power comes with a hacked up airbox that is going to increase noise levels and suck in water during stream crossings. Now if it's addressing real rideability problems - such as lean surge - I can see tinkering. But in my experience, things like dynojet kits rarely make more power that you actually use, they just burn more fuel. Lean surge can usually be cured by the pilot screw adjustment or a washer under the jet needle, and nothing more. Same reason I don't recommend aftermarket exhausts. The minor power increase comes at a major increase in noise. All the energy spent chasing a couple of foot lbs. or HP would be better spent for most riders by actually practicing their skills a bit.

The factory engineers aren't morons, you know. They know how to make more power too. But they reach compromises of power production, in order to do other things - including having the intake system quieter, keeping junk out of the intake tract, meeting emission controls, and providing better fuel economy. For some, that isn't a compromise worth taking. I'm different in that regard. I've never found the stock power production that limiting. I pretty regularly ride my DR at 80+ mph, and I've never found a hillclimb the bike couldn't do because of its power production. If I want to ride considerably faster than that, or terrain more rough than that, I just take another bike. I'm not suggesting nobody should modify the bike for more power, but personally those are the mods I would either not do at all, or only do if lots of other stuff had already been done to the bike. It's just in my view, more power isn't even close to the top of the list of improvements to be made to the bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
So you don't think that having the torque at 3000rpm that the stock bike does at peak (5000rpm) is useful?

Dynojet kit + open pipe.
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:38 PM   #29143
Elvis70
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secondary filter cleaning and oiling question

I bought one of the uni secondary filters from pro cycle. I've got some K&N filter cleaner and oil left over from a previous vehicle with a K&N. Is that allright to use on that little secondary filter?
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:05 PM   #29144
Ralph64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjoseph
Yea, it's useful. In about 2% of my riding. But I find that I'm rarely in need of peak torque. For my particular style of riding, my bike rarely gets to wide open throttle. I'd spend money on handling mods, better tires, and lots of other items before I'd go looking for more power from the bike, particularly if that bit of power comes with a hacked up airbox that is going to increase noise levels and suck in water during stream crossings. Now if it's addressing real rideability problems - such as lean surge - I can see tinkering. But in my experience, things like dynojet kits rarely make more power that you actually use, they just burn more fuel. Lean surge can usually be cured by the pilot screw adjustment or a washer under the jet needle, and nothing more. Same reason I don't recommend aftermarket exhausts. The minor power increase comes at a major increase in noise. All the energy spent chasing a couple of foot lbs. or HP would be better spent for most riders by actually practicing their skills a bit.

The factory engineers aren't morons, you know. They know how to make more power too. But they reach compromises of power production, in order to do other things - including having the intake system quieter, keeping junk out of the intake tract, meeting emission controls, and providing better fuel economy. For some, that isn't a compromise worth taking. I'm different in that regard. I've never found the stock power production that limiting. I pretty regularly ride my DR at 80+ mph, and I've never found a hillclimb the bike couldn't do because of its power production. If I want to ride considerably faster than that, or terrain more rough than that, I just take another bike. I'm not suggesting nobody should modify the bike for more power, but personally those are the mods I would either not do at all, or only do if lots of other stuff had already been done to the bike. It's just in my view, more power isn't even close to the top of the list of improvements to be made to the bike.
I can understand what you are saying to a point, but that almost reads like a soap box rant . I rode my bike with the engine almost completely stock for nearly 80,000km of touring in Eastern & Western Europe, Middle East, Central Asia, SE Asia, Australia and many trips to NW Africa. It has served me well as an inexpensive, quiet and reasonably economical touring bike. Other than the occasional trip to NW Africa this bikes extended touring days are over. The engine is showing its age. I hope to be able to pull the motor out for a rebuild at the end of winter and it will receive a forged piston, TM40, etc, while still trying to maintain a degree of decency in the area of noise.
Why? For the same reason many other people do... because I can and I want to. That is the only reason that matters worth a damn. If you are happy with your bike as it is then more power to you.

Cheers

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Old 11-15-2009, 03:07 PM   #29145
Ralph64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvis70
I bought one of the uni secondary filters from pro cycle. I've got some K&N filter cleaner and oil left over from a previous vehicle with a K&N. Is that allright to use on that little secondary filter?
It'll be fine. Better if you remember to clean both filters together every time and not neglect the secondary.

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