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Old 11-15-2009, 04:22 PM   #29146
drsmiley
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Handguards and Bars

I'm planning on putting Cycra Probend Handguards on my 08 DR650, was thinking about getting new bars also, should i get 1 1/8" or 7/8"? If i get the Pro Taper EVO bars what bend is equal to the stock bars, and I know I'll gain 3/4" with the clamps. Also what is a good comfortable grip to go with? Any info appreciated!
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:40 PM   #29147
Elvis70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmiley
I'm planning on putting Cycra Probend Handguards on my 08 DR650, was thinking about getting new bars also, should i get 1 1/8" or 7/8"? If i get the Pro Taper EVO bars what bend is equal to the stock bars, and I know I'll gain 3/4" with the clamps. Also what is a good comfortable grip to go with? Any info appreciated!
Bar size is your call. I have the 7/8ths. I like the look of the padded crossbar. But now I am thinking the the fat bars might be better for less clutter. I have Pro Taper 7/8ths CR mid bend and just about the same as stock. The pro-taper pillow top grips are nice too(what I got).
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:04 PM   #29148
Zapp22
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Bluhduh CONFESSIONAL: I goofed a wheel... lesson learned

They say confession good for the soul.

Put 2 new tires on my trusty 'ole '97 - IRC GP1's... had previously fallen in love with them on the '02.
pulled the wheels, don't have tire tools properly, so took wheels and tires and tubes to the local shop. they put 'em on and spin balanced. I took 'em home and put the wheels back on just like I had removed them... so I thought. Everything LOOKED right and I double checked the work vs. the '02 and vs. the Shop Manual. But in my gut I kept feeling like something was amiss. went for very short drive. didn't hear or feel anything strange but I was still struggling with that nagging something. Next day the dealer called and left message; "found a spacer laying around the shop... is it yours?". So with the shop manual on my screen I called them back and the guy there pulled up the same. we both snooped the diagram and both of us missed the spacer. He concluded it belonged to another job.

So I went for a 10 mile jaunt and had that nagging something.... ran ok, I thought, and rolled ok, until I applied the back brake going into a turn and when I pivoted right to look for traffic etc I hear a faint "eekk.. eeekkk.. eeekk" through my helmet. stopped, looked everything over. didn't see anything odd. But by the time I rolled into the driveway I was getting a 'lumpy' back brake feel. The missing spacer is/was the one that keeps the caliper at the proper attitude vis the hub!!!! the Caliper bolt was extended through its hole/seat just barely... just barely enough that the end of it shaved off against the rotor. fortunately, the caliper endured most of the damage, and its in a strong spot so I think all is serviceable. I had to chip off some bolt residue from the rotor using hand pressure and a wedge!!! yikes. Got the spacer back and re-installed everything.

sheesh.. you would think that having done this before I would remember everything, but I didn't. too long between tire changes.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:01 PM   #29149
Cyclepath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
An 8% improvement from simple modifications isn't impressive??
It's quite comparable to switching from a 15T sprocket to a 14T sprocket which comes in at about a 7% increase in torque at the rear wheel.

Thinking of it another way, with the 3.79 ft/lb increase in torque your bike would accelerate faster with a 16T front sprocket than without the mods and stock gearing.

But the 8% increase is only part of the story. If you look at the graph the modified bike makes more torque from about 3500 rpm to almost 6000 rpm than it did at it's peak when all was stock. That's significantly more power over pretty much the whole usable power spread. If you could ride these back to back you would be shocked at the difference.
hello procycle, i worked in the experimental research and development lab for kiekhaefer aeromarine for quite a few years. so yes i understand the charts. the dyno room was one of my favorite places. so as far as i'm concerned what you are calling an 8% increase is not worth the time and expence involved. especially if i have to put up with a 13 mpg decrease in fuel milage. for some reason my bike has always got between 63 and 58 mpg. stock 08 with only the idle mixture screw adjustment. i also tried the remove snorkel, shim under needle, hole in slide, backfire screen removed and it also dropped my mileage way to far to justify the pathetic increase in performance if you could even call it that.

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Old 11-15-2009, 07:23 PM   #29150
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22
sheesh.. you would think that having done this before I would remember everything, but I didn't. too long between tire changes.
Yep. The good old cush drive spacer...

Been there - done that.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:36 PM   #29151
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjoseph
But in my experience, things like dynojet kits rarely make more power that you actually use, they just burn more fuel.
Only if the person doing the tuning sets it up too rich - which is an easy mistake to make. When properly jetted the DR will easily get 50+ mpg along with a big improvement in driveability and better power delivery.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:48 PM   #29152
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
Only if the person doing the tuning sets it up too rich - which is an easy mistake to make.
Especially if you follow DynoJet's instructions.
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:17 AM   #29153
Blake Kennedy
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The reason I am chasing power gains is part of the whole reason I bought this bike. I ride with a mate on gravel roads that has a TE570 (heaps more power than a DR650) and I also want to do some adventure style riding.
I made a compromise when buying the bike so I am just trying to get it closer to being competative with the Husky. I could have bought another husky but the adventure side would be too expensive on a husky for me.
If I can get a healthy 50hp out of the DR just by making it breathe a bit better and a bit more fuel it will make the bike better for what I want to use it for. So for me the compromise of power vs economy, Power wins.

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Old 11-16-2009, 01:18 AM   #29154
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake Kennedy
If I can get a healthy 50hp out of the DR just by making it breathe a bit better and a bit more fuel it will make the bike better for what I want to use it for. So for me the compromise of power vs economy, Power wins.
A healthy 50hp?

Even the 725cc kit won't get there.
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Old 11-16-2009, 01:25 AM   #29155
DRjoe
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whats the most hp a dr650 has produced
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Old 11-16-2009, 01:41 AM   #29156
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
whats the most hp a dr650 has produced
BSR-1 over on TT claimed that his DR is the strongest, I think he got just over 50 RWHP. That's with a big bore kit though, I think 700cc?

The best 644cc DR I have seen belongs to a Swedish guy, he got 48 RWHP with bolt ons (cam, HC piston, full exhaust, TM40, etc).



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Old 11-16-2009, 02:23 AM   #29157
Blake Kennedy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
A healthy 50hp?

Even the 725cc kit won't get there.
Crank HP guys
Husky has 53 Crank HP
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Old 11-16-2009, 02:42 AM   #29158
Off Limits
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trippin 50hp. go buy a cr500! or get a 20hp nitrous kit!
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:02 AM   #29159
johnboy351
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Big thanks

A big thanks to Jessie and Janet at Kientech for there great customer service and fast dispatch. I ordered a sargent seat on the 6th and it arrived this morning thats 6 working days to the other side of the world!

If any one needs anything for there DR give these guys a call and they will sort you out .

Well I have a new bike now intimdators in the front Elka in the rear and the sargent on top it has totally transformed the ride.

I will post a ride report soon about the Elka I have ridden the bike a couple of times since the install and am still fine tuning it bt so far so good.

Chris in NZ
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Old 11-16-2009, 04:03 AM   #29160
tjoseph
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I agree . . .

Didn't mean to sound like a rant. And I definitely agree with you. If and when my bike gets to the point of needing a teardown, I'd definitely consider some power upgrades. I'd probably go along with a displacement upgrade too. I was addressing the question of what you should do first, or immediately, to the bike.

I think a lot of folks see the DR as something they should buy, and immediately start "improving," and that's what I was taking issue with. There seems to be a train of thought here that when you buy your DR, you should show up at the dealer to pick it up with a coping saw in hand to chop up the stock airbox, a different carburetor to bolt on, and a GSX-R muffler to bolt on, because those are "must do" mods that should be performed before you ever even ride the bike.

I'm a big believer in upgrading when things wear out. But as you know, the DR from the dealer is pretty good. A lot of them immediately get modded under the illusion that the rider is going to be so much faster, when most of those riders would be faster by just improving their skills and leaving the hacksaw at home.

Oops - rant, rant . . (g)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph64
I can understand what you are saying to a point, but that almost reads like a soap box rant . I rode my bike with the engine almost completely stock for nearly 80,000km of touring in Eastern & Western Europe, Middle East, Central Asia, SE Asia, Australia and many trips to NW Africa. It has served me well as an inexpensive, quiet and reasonably economical touring bike. Other than the occasional trip to NW Africa this bikes extended touring days are over. The engine is showing its age. I hope to be able to pull the motor out for a rebuild at the end of winter and it will receive a forged piston, TM40, etc, while still trying to maintain a degree of decency in the area of noise.
Why? For the same reason many other people do... because I can and I want to. That is the only reason that matters worth a damn. If you are happy with your bike as it is then more power to you.

Cheers
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