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Old 12-18-2009, 07:51 PM   #29821
levity
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Irvine, Calif.
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cut-n-lower footpeg brackets

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDR650
...
Lowering foot pegs - Has anyone simply cut off their footpegs, shortened the bracket, and re-welded them on? ...
I cut about 1/2" out of the stock brackets. The difference is noticeable, but I wish I removed a little more.
Another advantage of the shorter bracket is that your weight has less leverage to bend the rubber mounts.
Mounting Fastway footpegs in the "low-boy" position drops the pegs down and back about another 1/2".

Here's a somewhat blurry blow-up of a photo cropped to show the pegs and bracket:

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Old 12-18-2009, 09:48 PM   #29822
BlackBeast
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, CANADA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383
I finally got around to checking my NSU screws today on my 2007 DR650 with 18,100 miles on it. No worries, they were tight as a drum. I removed them and cleaned the threads with brake cleaner and compressed air. Blue Loctite and screwed them back in never to be seen again hopefully. The clutch looks and measures like brand new. These things are built to last.
Peace of mind, I tell ya!
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Old 12-18-2009, 10:06 PM   #29823
web037
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Location: Sierra foothills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster
Thanks, I ordered some and will see if they work for me or not, they seem like a good idea to adapt the bike for taller riders.
One thing I should have mentioned about the procycle peg mounts is that unlike the stock mounts there are no vibration dampeners in them. So you do feel more vibration through the pegs but on the other hand they make an incredibly solid platform when you are standing epically if you go to a bigger peg like the IMS Pro's. They also transfer your weight shifts much more directly which I really like. I'll never put the stock ones back on (unless I ever sell the bike)
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Old 12-19-2009, 01:57 AM   #29824
IvisLat
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty ...
Welcome. It would be helpful to know what country you are from. Maybe there are some other members in your part of the world who could advise you.

In the US, $2,800 (USD) would be high, even for a clean, low mileage '97, but DR650's are plentiful here. If they sre scarce and sought after in your country, the sellers will take advantage.
I'am from Latvija. Maybe someone have heard of it? Couple weeks ago we had a mass picket against raising motorcycle tax . Latvija is located in eastern Europe,in the midle of Baltic states .
I'm searching for Dr for over all europe,but nothing, there are very small offer ,for very big price.
Appears that I must search a Ebay.com for normal price Dr. But I have a problem, in my country any vehicle manufactured over 2001 year must go through certification,which is very expensive,so a 00 model Dr would be a perfect option..
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Old 12-19-2009, 02:14 AM   #29825
TheFrenchCanadian
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_TN
I had never used rim locks in the past. Only on dirt only bikes that came with them. I always thought that my DR would not need them. Well about 3 months ago I had my D606's mounted up and had been doing some pretty gnarly trail riding in the woods. I had a flat at 18psi. Didn't think much of it. Changed tubes and went back to riding. Next day had a flat again. Got to looking at the tubes on the back and it was breaking loose at the valve stem. I determined that those 606's were biting so hard it was spinning the tire on the rim. Then had one on the front after riding a really tight twisty section on pavement with street tires. I figured it was because braking hard for corners. Installed 1 rim lock on each rim and no more worries. I have had no more flats since then.
So, as far as installation, did you just drill a hole in the middle of the rim across from the valve stem then?

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Old 12-19-2009, 03:31 AM   #29826
Grizz Adams
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Location: Somerville, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFrenchCanadian
So, as far as installation, did you just drill a hole in the middle of the rim across from the valve stem then?

TFC
Yes. I also use heavy tubes. A little out of balance, but hey its a thumper right?
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:27 AM   #29827
dr trebor
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DR Problem

Dont how common this is ;; Have 08 DR, Staintune .32 litre tank,All Suspension Mods done ,New Renthals,Screen off 89 dakar ,606s Rimlock,you get the picture;Got a miss under load disconnected restrictor on side of carb ran better but still 250 beat me up hills Sometimes will run good for 200 k then start .Did trip to Alice Springs thru desert[7000 k] ran good till last 1000 bk .Wierdly lifting fuel hoses on left side seems to make it run better .Or is there a site for this Cheers What we do over here with our pegs is a kit from Vince Strang cycles in Aus Drops them down 25 and back 25 mm solid mt but much better for long days in saddle .Trailbike Adventure Magazine has a template you can download But at $55 Aus why bother .Kit is CNC cut comes with all bolts and is 8mm stainless SEAT we use an Airhawk Get 600 700 k in a day with it

dr trebor screwed with this post 12-19-2009 at 04:39 AM
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:03 AM   #29828
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr trebor
All Suspension Mods done
New Renthals
Got a miss under load disconnected restrictor on side of carb ran better
couple things. all suspension mods? never seen that list
renthal whats?
and whats a carb restrictor? maybe i'm still in the 20th century
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:15 AM   #29829
dr trebor
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Location: Australia Perth
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Mods

8 kg rear spring [std is 6.5],Proper length so no spacer ,Revalved for 85 kilo plus 10 k Luggage weird kind of firmer but plush on small to large bumps etc .Get at another 25 ks an hour on a dirt road safely .Front has emulators and Right springs for 32 litres of fuel.Emulators probably not worth money but definitely make it better.Not RM after all Got to love those 606 got 6500 ks out of back one half road rest Australian bush ,Loaded for tour as well.Honestly did not think suspension would make that much diff .Now it would be first thing i would do Little bunch of wires on side of carb push on fitting might be Aus thing ?Renthals are handlebars thoughtb they were US ?
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:18 AM   #29830
jtwind
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Quote:
For those of you who have vibration problems with rim locks, you might want to look into the Talon brand ones. They are made from billet aluminum and weigh about 1/3 to 1/2 less than the standard ones like Motion Pro.

Even though it only takes a few minutes on the balancing stand I don't even bother with additional weights any more since I can't tell a difference. This is on my off road wheel set however, so I don't ride highways etc much with it.
Lukas, Anyt chance you know what size talon you need for the dr rear or how to measure for it?
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:35 AM   #29831
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtwind
Lukas, Anyt chance you know what size talon you need for the dr rear or how to measure for it?

Sure, front is 1.85" and rear 2.5".
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:11 AM   #29832
NC Rick
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Pike Bishop, one rimlock on the rear for street seems like a bad idea because of the vibration and extra hassle changing tires. With a street type tire (even a 50/50 DS tire, I doubt you can get very far on the street running a flat) When I have used them on a DS bike, I found that a pair installed opposite one an other make for a better setup. I have had only one flat in 30K miles on my DR and that was with the stock tires ("death wings") when a broken Bic pen (yea, plastic!) went right through the tire.

996 dl I am a little dissatisfied with any other tire than the Pirelli MT 90 AT (with a 120 on the rear). While the MT 90ST makes the bike more super Moto like, they don't do as well in the loose stuff. I get good mialage, a smooth ride with the all important to me, neutral handling. The street performance is excellent, still better than the stock tires but I still get a little controlled slide from the rear at high lean angles in first and second gear when hard on the gas. The ST version engages my pucker meter befoe I can slide them at all. On an off road section, i actually ran up on a friend on a KLR who was running 606s while going up a muddy hill, he ran out of traction, I still had some drive. Weight transfer and gear selection have a lot to do with that deal I suspect. Off road, forget about edge traction. When I see a low area in the trail (like a rut) and we have our "Carolina Ice" red clay crap, I just aim for the lowest, deepest part 'cause that is where I am going to end up regardless. Go fast enough and I seem to come out the other end. I do hate mud though :-)

Intiminators, I have them installed on the front of my bike now. Since you have them, try them. I am keeping mine in, pending my cartridge internals conversion. They do some things really well, others not so much. They cause some additional friction in the fork and with a distinct lack of bleed, cause the front end to track the ground more (the suspension is less compliant). Use them with softer springs because they keep the front riding quite high. You will still have bottoming issues with certain types of big hits. I thought the guys at Ricor were full of it when they said that you can just install the intiminators with 5wt oil and the stock springs and be done. I found that for many riders (particularly the less experienced), brake dive is the biggest complaint. The Intiminators are second to none in reducing brake dive. I actually do not like the effectiveness under some conditions. Riding quickly on gravel, I prefer the chassis to rotate a little more so I can load the front with trail braking, improving front traction. Overall, I find that a well set up set of forks using RaceTechs Emulators give better performance in all around use.

Fullmonte, I have only ridden with Brent "SV Mongo" on the street. I would love to spend some time with those guys off road. I have worked on the suspension on their bikes. I have been known as a bit of a wild man but at 54, I seem to have mellowed some. Brent is a little wide open and I am fairly sure that I am a touch more conservative these days. I do have a set of track master tires to mount on the bike this winter. i want to do some more off road stuff and I know that riding with Brent is going to be fun. With his DR 350 I think I would prefer my Honda CRF to the DR for that ride...

Back to the low tire pressure issue, my stock DR rims are not so strong and even running low 20s, I have quite a number of bends in my rims from rock strikes.

IvisLat, welcome to our tiny little thread and good luck finding a DR for you!
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:16 AM   #29833
DirtyDR650
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Thanks to all who have contributed their seat mod experiences. I have tried the Stearns seat pad and it's ok, works better on the Bandit tho. Thing is, I want to lower the seat by and inch or two, not raise it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldnoGPS
I just rebuilt my seat for the third time to remove the closed-cell foam camping pad. First try was to cover the stock seat with it - that didn't do it, stock foam under a layer of the camping pad was still too soft. It did widen the seat about an inch though, which helps give me something to grab with my knees when standing.
Second try was leaving the extra width with the camping pad foam, cutting out most of the stock foam where I sat, replacing it with a gardeners kneeling pad on the remaining stock foam and several layers of the camping pad foam on top of that. That truly sucked - camping foam was WAY too hard in the 3 layers I used and was killing my skinny ass bones.
3rd try left the gardeners kneeling pad in place (I used on of these succesfully on my 950SE) and added several layers of carpet underlayment. I was more careful to get the seat flatter, a little taller. I can ride it about 2 hours without stopping now, a fair bit better. Still not 100% though. FYI - I'm 6'3 and 150 pounds. Most butts will squish that camping foam a bit more than mine.
Sounds like you have been through a lot! You're using the barbed upholstery staples, right? Same holes or punching new ones each time?

I'd buy a Suzuki gel seat if I could find a torn or busted one for cheap and put the gel internals into my stock seat.

I think I need to find some gel padding. I appreciate the links, but $60-$80 for a piece of foam isn't in my tightwad nature... the biggest motivation for my "do-it-yourself" attitude is so I can thumb my nose at over-priced stuff and making as good or better product than they're trying to gouge me for.

So where to find gel padding (or the equivalent) to make my seat LOWER and more comfy? What things are there I could find at garage sales and flea markets that have the right kind of foam in them I could pull out and use? Floatation vests? Baby seats? Gotta think outside the box...
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:23 AM   #29834
DirtyDR650
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Ozarks
Oddometer: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by levity
I cut about 1/2" out of the stock brackets. The difference is noticeable, but I wish I removed a little more.
Another advantage of the shorter bracket is that your weight has less leverage to bend the rubber mounts.
Mounting Fastway footpegs in the "low-boy" position drops the pegs down and back about another 1/2".

Here's a somewhat blurry blow-up of a photo cropped to show the pegs and bracket:

Thanks for that, yep that's what I'm gonna do except I want to go lower, as far down to the bracket holes as I can get (lowering the seat).

I'm thinking of cutting the "U" bracket off, then cutting off the top of the bracket and re-welding the "U" back on lower down.

So did you do any grinding or drilling to get good weld penetration around the "U" bracket?
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:51 AM   #29835
dr trebor
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Seat

outside the square ...forget about foam.. Imagine an egg carton but made of vinyl/ rubber bit wider than your seat run it almost flat so bum juuust off seat A guy makes them bout $70 dollars US Save yourself some, time spend it riding Welding footpegs mmm weld is the weakest part
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