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Old 12-17-2009, 08:51 PM   #29821
redfishguide
Old Dirt Biker
 
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Beaufort, South Carolina
Oddometer: 379
Quote:
The point is ... the bead flange/tire bead fit on these things are so tight (on purpose ) ... that they DON"T need rimlocks under 99.99% of the conditions they (DR650's) are ACTUALLY ridden in ...
... cuz those tire beads .. are locked onto that rim

that leaves 1 out of a thousand ... who might actually NEED rimlocks ...

which is what I said slick

I'd have to disagree with you. As delivered the Dr is pretty much a street bike so rim locks are surely not needed. If you intend to ride a significant amount of dirt rim locks are a necessity. I spun two back tires ripping off the valve stems before switching to a DR 350 rear which is drilled for two rim locks. No more issues with the rear when I air down to 15 lbs though I did manage to spin a front. I'm thinking low air and heavy front brake use.

It's really all about how you plan on riding your DR, but blanket statements based only on your experience are misleading.
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:06 PM   #29822
speedmaster
Studly Adventurer
 
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Joined: Mar 2006
Oddometer: 571
Quote:
Originally Posted by web037
I have them on Mine. At 6'2" they make the bike a whole lot more comfortable to ride, My legs were reall cramped with the stock ones, they even make the stock seat bearable on long rides. You need to trim the lower push rod about 1/4" to get the brake pedal down to the correct level and to be honest the rear brake does feel a little mushy to me now but then I haven't bleed it since I put those on and could have gotten some air in the system when I was cutting the push rod. I highly recommend these if your legs feel cramped on the bike. By the way, Procycle did sell me the mounts without the pegs for a slight discount since I already a set of IMS Pro pegs which are also a great improvement over stock.
Thanks, I ordered some and will see if they work for me or not, they seem like a good idea to adapt the bike for taller riders.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:10 PM   #29823
Ralph64
Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishguide
I'd have to disagree with you. As delivered the Dr is pretty much a street bike so rim locks are surely not needed. If you intend to ride a significant amount of dirt rim locks are a necessity. I spun two back tires ripping off the valve stems before switching to a DR 350 rear which is drilled for two rim locks. No more issues with the rear when I air down to 15 lbs though I did manage to spin a front. I'm thinking low air and heavy front brake use.

It's really all about how you plan on riding your DR, but blanket statements based only on your experience are misleading.
Agreed...

Even taking it easy it is fairly easy to turn a tyre on a rim at low pressures. I learned the hard way that any time pressures are dropped to 15psi or less turning the tyre is a real possibility regardless of how tight the tyre is on the rim. Just about anyone who rides in heavy sand (for example) will at some stage drop pressures into this range.

At these pressures the most prudent course is to warn people that the possibility of turning the tyre exists.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:11 PM   #29824
ditchbanker
Owner of dull user line
 
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Idaho-Beneath the smell of sugarbeats
Oddometer: 1,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiBishop

Have I mentioned how much my ass hurts!? After 300 miles in 4 days, the two bones in my ass are fed up with me. I’ve looked at the Corbin and Sergeant seats, but they are a bit out of my price range for now. I’ve scanned this thread and the rest of the net, but I don’t see a quick fix. Wool skin might help a bit, but Jesus…my ass is killing me and I’d really like to come up with another solution.

I dumped it when climbing a rugged hill and busted one of the rear turn indicator lens and housing, and nearly snapped my clutch lever. I’ve looked at the Acerbis Ralley Pro guards and like them…are there other suggestions? Also, when I look to replace the turning indicator parts, I can find the lens but not the housing…where the best place for me to stock up on these things since I’m probably going to need a few backups?

Thanks for any replies!
You might look around locally and see if there's anyone that will re-do your seat. There's a guy around here locally who does a good job. I have one of his seats, it's about $100, but much better. You may have someone local who can build the seat wider. If not, there are posts online of other people building up their own stock seats. I still toss a sheep skin on top for long rides, but that's to keep air circulating.

When I broke a turn signal, I replaced them with Buell Uly signals. They are more flexible, and in my opinion look better. A couple years ago when I did this I could get two Buell stalks and all for the same price Suzuki was going to charge me for one. I'm not sure what Buell parts prices are going to be with them out of business. Hopefully for Buell owners they keep on producing spares.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:50 PM   #29825
Kommando
Grumpy Young Man
 
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride Far
Yep, most of that, and also check out stock battery box if you are really counting ounces. It's heavy steel. I made a replacement with a single piece of aluminum bar and saved if I recall 1 lb 4 oz or thereabouts.
That's another 1.25lb closer to the weight of a DR-Z400S. It also reminds me...There are lighter batteries that will fit the DR too.
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Old 12-18-2009, 05:50 AM   #29826
jenx
misadventurer
 
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Oddometer: 553
Hey Ride Far

What happened to your blog?? It ground to a halt in January :( I live in South Africa and was really enjoying your quality posts as you headed south.
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:11 AM   #29827
NC Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
 
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 566
FWIW, I don't care for the rim locks on my Dual Sport bikes. It is hard to get a real good tire balance with them and vibrations on the road develop to some level or another. With aggressive knobbies, those likely would not be noticed But I don't like to run those either because of their poor road performance. We have a lot of rocky terrain and with the dual-sport imposed compromises, running low tire pressures cause a lot of flat tires (did I say that I hate fixing flats?). For me, running pressures in the low 20s works best for of road and I can get away with out the rim locks. In my long past dirt bike days, I ran these really stiff knobbies with twin rimlocks, a tire mounting fluid that set like glue and I had sheet metal screws through the rim edges to engage the bead of the tire. When those tires went flat, you could still ride home.

I bought a DRZ 400E that was street legal a couple years back, set it up with MT 21s and double rim locks and all that, It was great when I loaded it in the truck to get to a dirt riding area but I hated riding it on the pavement. It sat and I continued to ride my beloved DR 650. The DRZ is since sold and the DR 650 keeps getting more improvements. If I had better access to real dirt riding things would be different ( and I likely would not start with a dr 650). I end up on a lot of poorly paved and gravel roads and I love riding on those too. My DR 650 normally rides on 80-20 tires and I have a blast. I have done a number of organized Dual Sport rides on those (including the old, and sandy Alligator Dual Sport in Florida). I try not to get frustrated by the compromise of the Dual-Sport bike but find my perfect ride includes a spirited jaunt on pavement, gravel, jeep roads and single track, all in one days ride. Nirvana. Just another view
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:12 AM   #29828
fiBishop
2007 DR 650
 
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Owasso, OK
Oddometer: 220
Thanks Ride Far, kuyaoli and ditchbanker. That saves me some shopping!

I came up with the quickest possible fix on the butt problem...I folded a small fluffy towel a couple times and sat on it. Made a HUGE difference for 30 mile commute to trails. I'm definitely going for a longer term solution soon though. Those riding pants (http://www.lipowear.com/) have my eye too.

The first things I'm going to do are lower the bike (yeah, wanted to ride rather than turn wrenches last night) and install hand guards. Then wind screen and stiffen the suspension a tick.

Damn I'm having fun!!!
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:38 AM   #29829
chilibizkit
Wanderer
 
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Plainfield Ont.
Oddometer: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ
In my very humble opinion, for that kinda' "stressed" part, I would go with O.E.M. hardware.

The O.E.M. nut (08319-3108A) is a self-locking piece, much like the rear-axle nut that replaced the old cotter-pin unit. Therefore, the manual does not call for any kind of dampening (threadlock).

19.5 lb/ft on those, if I remember correctly...

Good Luck with your endeavor...
Thanks to you and the Flatulator for your help. As well as others past and most likely future.

This site is great.
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:58 AM   #29830
DirtyDR650
Mud Lover
 
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Ozarks
Oddometer: 332
Two questions regarding recent topics.

Lowering foot pegs - Has anyone simply cut off their footpegs, shortened the bracket, and re-welded them on? I have a MIG, and that's what the Procycle pegs appear to be?

Seat - Anyone who's done their own seat ever use a closed-cell foam camping pad roll-up sleeping mat? Seems like one of those is plenty big enough to cut whatever shape you want and use multiple layers? (thinking lowering the seat an inch or two as well as comfort)

Thanks for any input!
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Old 12-18-2009, 07:09 AM   #29831
plugeye
mc caregiver
 
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
Oddometer: 3,016
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDR650
Two questions regarding recent topics.

Lowering foot pegs - Has anyone simply cut off their footpegs, shortened the bracket, and re-welded them on? I have a MIG, and that's what the Procycle pegs appear to be?

Seat - Anyone who's done their own seat ever use a closed-cell foam camping pad roll-up sleeping mat? Seems like one of those is plenty big enough to cut whatever shape you want and use multiple layers? (thinking lowering the seat an inch or two as well as comfort)

Thanks for any input!
yeah, someone on here cut & welded peg brackets, looked great
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Old 12-18-2009, 07:21 AM   #29832
Pike Bishop
Pull Down the Ponzi.
 
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Your Back Yard
Oddometer: 8,477
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick
FWIW, I don't care for the rim locks on my Dual Sport bikes. It is hard to get a real good tire balance with them and vibrations on the road develop to some level or another. With aggressive knobbies, those likely would not be noticed But I don't like to run those either because of their poor road performance. We have a lot of rocky terrain and with the dual-sport imposed compromises, running low tire pressures cause a lot of flat tires (did I say that I hate fixing flats?). For me, running pressures in the low 20s works best for of road and I can get away with out the rim locks. In my long past dirt bike days, I ran these really stiff knobbies with twin rimlocks, a tire mounting fluid that set like glue and I had sheet metal screws through the rim edges to engage the bead of the tire. When those tires went flat, you could still ride home.

I bought a DRZ 400E that was street legal a couple years back, set it up with MT 21s and double rim locks and all that, It was great when I loaded it in the truck to get to a dirt riding area but I hated riding it on the pavement. It sat and I continued to ride my beloved DR 650. The DRZ is since sold and the DR 650 keeps getting more improvements. If I had better access to real dirt riding things would be different ( and I likely would not start with a dr 650). I end up on a lot of poorly paved and gravel roads and I love riding on those too. My DR 650 normally rides on 80-20 tires and I have a blast. I have done a number of organized Dual Sport rides on those (including the old, and sandy Alligator Dual Sport in Florida). I try not to get frustrated by the compromise of the Dual-Sport bike but find my perfect ride includes a spirited jaunt on pavement, gravel, jeep roads and single track, all in one days ride. Nirvana. Just another view
Rick,

What's your opinion on having a rimlock on the rear tire in case you get a flat on the street and want to ride it a few miles home? I'm a total n00b to bikes but I had the impression that a rimlock would allow you to ride on a flat in the back...

(I do about 95% street riding fairly close to home and don't carry tools to fix a flat, and probably wouldn't want to abandon the bike to go fetch tools or the truck.)
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:17 AM   #29833
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 521
+1


Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishguide
I'd have to disagree with you. As delivered the Dr is pretty much a street bike so rim locks are surely not needed. If you intend to ride a significant amount of dirt rim locks are a necessity. I spun two back tires ripping off the valve stems before switching to a DR 350 rear which is drilled for two rim locks. No more issues with the rear when I air down to 15 lbs though I did manage to spin a front. I'm thinking low air and heavy front brake use.

It's really all about how you plan on riding your DR, but blanket statements based only on your experience are misleading.
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DL1000 '05 black
DL 650 '06 Red
DR650 '07
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:48 AM   #29834
SkunkWizard
recycle crime scene tape
 
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: "the Planet"
Oddometer: 538
Seat Foam FYI

A source for seat foam. A little $pendy but, for the creative do it your self seat build good stuff or just sit on it
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=1059

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/..._seatfoam.html
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:48 AM   #29835
OldnoGPS
Just a sightseer
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Earlysville, Virginia
Oddometer: 1,207
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDR650
Two questions regarding recent topics.

Lowering foot pegs - Has anyone simply cut off their footpegs, shortened the bracket, and re-welded them on? I have a MIG, and that's what the Procycle pegs appear to be?

Seat - Anyone who's done their own seat ever use a closed-cell foam camping pad roll-up sleeping mat? Seems like one of those is plenty big enough to cut whatever shape you want and use multiple layers? (thinking lowering the seat an inch or two as well as comfort)

Thanks for any input!
I just rebuilt my seat for the third time to remove the closed-cell foam camping pad. First try was to cover the stock seat with it - that didn't do it, stock foam under a layer of the camping pad was still too soft. It did widen the seat about an inch though, which helps give me something to grab with my knees when standing.
Second try was leaving the extra width with the camping pad foam, cutting out most of the stock foam where I sat, replacing it with a gardeners kneeling pad on the remaining stock foam and several layers of the camping pad foam on top of that. That truly sucked - camping foam was WAY too hard in the 3 layers I used and was killing my skinny ass bones.
3rd try left the gardeners kneeling pad in place (I used on of these succesfully on my 950SE) and added several layers of carpet underlayment. I was more careful to get the seat flatter, a little taller. I can ride it about 2 hours without stopping now, a fair bit better. Still not 100% though. FYI - I'm 6'3 and 150 pounds. Most butts will squish that camping foam a bit more than mine.
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