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Old 10-03-2010, 09:42 AM   #40186
XTreme
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Granada, Spain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383
This page shows how to cut the airbox:

http://www.kientech.com/DJDR650AbMod.htm
Yeh I saw that, but there are images not displaying so it wasn't that clear to me.
Are we talking cutting the top or the side here?
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:45 AM   #40187
AaronK
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Location: San Clemente, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTreme
Bit of advice here guys!

Recently bought this DR650 and after checking it over and doing an oil change yesterday, I took it for a run today.

Here it is at Lake Negratin, Southern Spain today!



Anyway, the previous owner had rejetted and put a K&N air filter on.....goes very well indeed. But the noise is very loud at speed even though it's a stock pipe.

When I checked it appears he was running with the airbox cover off, so I put it back on and tested. Ran like a slug and just wouldn't rev.
If I have to run with the cover off then I'll just carry on....but I'd prefer to have it a bit quieter if possible while still getting decent performance.

I've seen references to this airbox mod with drilling holes but I can't seem to find a definitive set of instructions as to where you drill, and how big the holes should be. And would this be the best course of action for me?
One version is here; http://www.kientech.com/DJDR650AbMod.htm

and another here; http://www.procycle.us/info/questions/dr650/fuel_system.html
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:50 AM   #40188
XTreme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snow4aaron
That's exactly what I was looking for! Cheers mate!
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:02 AM   #40189
RiDR
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Location: 45.55397,-78.59676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSteve
Did 130 mile ride yesterday on mixed roads and really had no complaints except for the 30 miles I did at interstate speeds. The wind basically wanted to splay my legs and I ended up just putting my feet back on the rear pegs "squid style". I wasn't comfortable either way but at least I wasn't catching wind.

Am I just a bowl legged oddball or has anyone else dealt with this? I've got stockpegs. Is this what lowered pegs are supposed to help with? Advice appreciated.
You're not alone, I actually like using the rear pegs at highway speeds, everything just feels more controlled.
I put on a Safari tank and the wind blowing your legs apart is no longer an issue, peg lowering brackets also helped to the point where I don't even need to ride "squid style" any more... but still do.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:45 AM   #40190
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTreme
That's exactly what I was looking for! Cheers mate!
To keep the sound level down only cut out the top - not the triangular bits on the sides.

http://www.procycle.us/images/info/dr650/airboxmod2.jpg

-
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:59 AM   #40191
XTreme
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Location: Granada, Spain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
To keep the sound level down only cut out the top - not the triangular bits on the sides.

http://www.procycle.us/images/info/dr650/airboxmod2.jpg

-
Thanks! I gotta quieten this down....even if it means a bit less performance!
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:28 AM   #40192
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx_rob
The stock air box is the number one restriction point to any type of performance gains on the DR650. The stock needle taper is too mild to allow any modifications to the air box opening.... more shimming will only add a rich spot down low and it will still be lean in the upper mid range. Leave the air box opening stock along with the stock main jet... or open the air box to let the engine breathe and buy a DJ kit with the correct needle to supply the required fuel for the increased air flow. Or chuck the BST in the bin where it belongs and get a real carb with a mechanically controlled slide. Then you can actually say you are riding a thumper.
And don't forget to go with a larger main jet. Jesse recommends something from 150 to 160. I'm running a 155 and very pleased with both performance and fuel economy. I would follow Jesse's guide exactly. You can't go wrong.

MX Rob is spot on ... the bike won't run with an open air box using the stock needle. The DJ needle make a very nice up grade. Bike runs better everywhere. Combined with slightly larger main jet, all good.

A pumper Mikuni or Keihin FCR carbs are good options too but more maintenance/adjustment/wear intensive and a bit more sensitive to altitude and tuning.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:34 AM   #40193
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
What is the idle speed like? The specs call for a 1500-1600 rpm idle. That is really fast, I suspect to eliminate the stalling, due to lean mixture. Stock, had to idle at about 1250 or so to eliminate stalling. If you remove the plug over the pilot screw, you can adjust so that a 1000 rpm idle is doable. As you note, check the filters in the tank and the carb inlet.
Spot on advice Andy, as usual.
You will need to add an extended Fuel Pilot screw. Remove the tin plug (use wall board screw ... poke through and pull out cover) then carefully unscrew the Fuel Pilot screw and replace with extended screw. (Jesse, Pro Cycle) This will allow fine tuning ... very easy. Raising idle should help too. (1250 to 1400 RPM) If you suspect water ... unscrew float bowl drain screw (do outside) and drain float bowl. Look for water or crud in there.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:55 AM   #40194
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTreme
Yeh I saw that, but there are images not displaying so it wasn't that clear to me.
Are we talking cutting the top or the side here?
Is the Side Cover of your air box OFF? If so, this will be noisy. Replace the side cover. Check your main jet. What is in there? Do you have the stock needle? (it is Non-adjustable ... no clip notches)

Yes, you cut open the TOP. Cutting open the top per Jesse's guide is not too noisy, IMO. But to do this correctly you will need to get the Dyno Jet needle and go to larger main jet.

1. Cut air box top per Jesse instructions/template.
2. Order Dyno Jet kit (includes new adjustable needle and 3 main jets)
3. Put Air Box side cover back on.

Your K&N will work well with above set up. Try Dyno Jet needle on 3rd or 4th clip position from top. Stock Pilot jet, Fuel-Air Pilot mixture screw out about 1 turn out. (variable) Idle set to 1250 RPM.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:25 PM   #40195
XTreme
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Granada, Spain
Oddometer: 624
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
Is the Side Cover of your air box OFF? If so, this will be noisy. Replace the side cover. Check your main jet. What is in there? Do you have the stock needle? (it is Non-adjustable ... no clip notches)

Yes, you cut open the TOP. Cutting open the top per Jesse's guide is not too noisy, IMO. But to do this correctly you will need to get the Dyno Jet needle and go to larger main jet.

1. Cut air box top per Jesse instructions/template.
2. Order Dyno Jet kit (includes new adjustable needle and 3 main jets)
3. Put Air Box side cover back on.

Your K&N will work well with above set up. Try Dyno Jet needle on 3rd or 4th clip position from top. Stock Pilot jet, Fuel-Air Pilot mixture screw out about 1 turn out. (variable) Idle set to 1250 RPM.
Yes....it has been rejetted! And according to the previous owner, it's a lot better for it. Certainly goes well!
But the noise at speed is just too much.....hence my query! I'll cut the top out and hopefully that will improve it.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:47 PM   #40196
Garak
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Oddometer: 266
Quote:
Originally Posted by gouralnik

Questions:

1. What is the best road tyre combination for the DR? I'm especially concerned about good grip in wet weather/rain and durability. Are the
Pirellis MT90 Scorpion S/T as good as everyone says?
2. What would you install (in order of priority and brand ) in order to improve front and rear brake performance (no conversion to 320mm supermoto rotor & tyres allowed )?

Thank you for your suggestions.
1) I recently installed a set of Conti Trail Attacks (130/80 and 90/90) and so far I am very pleased. I can't report on wear, but they are designed for large trailies so should wear well on a "little" bike like this. Dry grip is amazing, though the feel is odd at first due to the unusual construction of Conti carcasses. Once you are accustomed to it though, very confidence inspiring. Wet grip (I live on Vancouver Island in Canada so this is important) has also been excellent thus far. I feel much more confident on wet pavement with these than i did on dry pavement with Trail Wings. Needless to say, they are pretty smooth and quiet as well.

2) Assuming your pads, rotors and master cylinder(s) are in decent shape the single best upgrade you can make to your brakes are braided stainless lines. For obvious reasons, you'll see a lot more improvement from the front brake line than the rear, so if you're on a budget, do that one first.
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:49 PM   #40197
Ed-B
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GSXR can mod: Happy!

I did the GSXR/Jesse/DJ mods to my '08 DR650 this week, and I couldn't be happier with the results. Here's a recap:

I got a nice clean X40F0X GSXR can, and ordered the mid pipe and DJ kit from Jesse last week. While I was waiting for the parts to come here to Maine from Oregon I read everything that I could find about these mods here on ADV and on Thumpertalk, YouTube, etc. I'm now glad that I had to wait, because this time to do the research was key, and I learned quite a lot from what I read.

A few years ago I did a similar set of mods to my XT225, so this was a similar exercise for me. I wanted to get this right the first time on the DR - I did not want to mess with it, so I took the conservative route:

-Jesse's air box mod. I traced the top opening on the box around the frame rails while it was in the bike. I drilled the corner holes and used a Dremel tool to make the cuts, cleaning it up with a knife and file after. It looks very good.

-DJ needle with clip on the 4th groove from the top

-160 main jet

-adjustable fuel screw 1 turn out.

I did NOT drill the 2nd slide hole. I read Motolab's advice in this regard in the BST-40 thread and it sounded valid to me: No extra slide wear, no surging, no need to mess with cutting the spring to reduce preload, etc.

I did NOT do Jesse's white spacer mod. I can't see how it could be assumed that the circlip would ever stay on the edge of the shelf in the slide. I put the needle clip opening toward the slide shelf, and dropped it right down to the bottom of the slide. I used the DJ flat washer on top of the clip, per the DJ instructions. Thanks to 996DL for this clarification.

I did NOT grind the header weld. If the dyno shows no improvement, per Procycle's testing, and the weld could become compromised, resulting in a break/failure, then why bother?

I put the GSXR muffler on the inside of Jesse's bracket where it seemed to align naturally, and used some rubber washers to buffer these pieces. A big thanks to MX_Rob for all the GSXR can mod engineering. You are the man!

The bike started up and ran smoothly as soon as the carb bowl refueled. I was nearly floored at how well that went. Even the fuel screw setting was about perfect.

Now the throttle response is amazing, and the bike runs strong everywhere from idle to wide open. It's really fun to ride this thing now! I really can't imagine how a pumper carb could be that much better on my bike.

The GSXR muffler is a top quality piece, and that Two Brothers pipe kit that Jesse offers is equally nice. Perhaps the performance exhausts make a a better dyno chart, but what are we talking here, really? A couple of horse power? I don't know... But that Gixxer can works well, it sounds great, it looks stock with that "SUZUKI" etched right in the side, and it'll never need to be repacked.

Yes, I'm happy! Thanks guys!

Ed-B screwed with this post 10-03-2010 at 02:02 PM
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:52 PM   #40198
exoff-roadgoat
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: W.Meechigan
Oddometer: 4,229
Quote:
Originally Posted by mx_rob
Hey, where are you in SW MI? I don't get to meet many DR riders around here... I think most of them live in Australia. We have one down in Allegan who is coming over to my house next Saturday to work on his bike. Two's company... three's a party.
Grandville....thanks, I might just take you up on the free clinic. I'll PM if it will work.
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:56 PM   #40199
mr openroad
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Location: Phoenix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-B
I did the GSXR/Jesse/DJ mods to my '08 DR650 this week, and I couldn't be happier with the results. Here's a recap:

I got a nice clean X40F0X GSXR can, and ordered the mid pipe and DJ kit from Jesse last week. While I was waiting for the parts to come here to Maine from Oregon I read everything that I could find about these mods here on ADV and on Thumpertalk, YouTube, etc.

A few years ago I did a similar set of mods to my XT225, so this was a similar exercise for me. I wanted to get this right the first time on the DR - I did not want to mess with it, so I took the conservative route:

-Jesse's air box mod. I traced the top opening on the box around the frame rails while it was in the bike. I drilled the corner holes and used a Dremel tool to make the cuts, cleaning it up with a knife and file after. It looks very good.

-DJ needle with clip on the 4th groove from the top

-160 main jet

-adjustable fuel screw 1 turn out.

I did NOT drill the 2nd slide hole. I read Motolab's advice in this regard on the BST40 thread and it sounded valid to me: No extra slide wear, no surging, no need to mess with cutting the spring to reduce preload, etc.

I did NOT do Jesse's white spacer mod. I can't see how it could be assumed that the circlip would ever stay on the shelf at the base of the slide. I put the needle clip opening toward the slide shelf, and dropped it right down at the base of the slide. I used the DJ flat washer on top of the clip, per the DJ instructions. Thanks to 996DL for this clarification.

I did NOT grind the header weld. If the dyno shows no improvement, per Procycle's testing, and the weld could become compromised, resulting in a break/failure, then why bother?

I put the GSXR muffler on the inside of Jesse's bracket where it seemed to align naturally, and used some rubber washers to buffer these pieces. A big thanks to MX_Rob for all the GSXR can mod engineering. You are the man!

The bike started up and ran smoothly as soon as the carb bowl refueled. I was nearly floored at how well that went. Even the fuel screw setting was about perfect.

Now the throttle response is amazing, and the bike runs strong everywhere from idle to wide open. It's really fun to ride this thing now! I really can't imagine how a pumper carb could be that much better on my bike.

The GSXR muffler is a top quality piece, and that Two Brothers pipe kit that Jesse offers is equally nice. Perhaps the performance exhausts make a a better dyno chart, but what are we talking here, really? A couple of horse power? I don't know... But that Gixxer can works well, it sounds great, it looks stock with that "SUZUKI" etched right in the side, and it'll never need to be repacked.

Yes, I'm happy! Thanks guys!
congrats! how much did the whole thing run you?
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Old 10-03-2010, 02:09 PM   #40200
Ed-B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr openroad
congrats! how much did the whole thing run you?
It was about $350 for everything.

I got the GSXR muffler for $50, the rest was Jesse's pipe kit, DynoJet kit, carb bowl screws, adjustable fuel screw, shipping, etc.

I think it was money well spent!
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