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Old 10-02-2010, 06:26 PM   #40186
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSteve
Did 130 mile ride yesterday on mixed roads and really had no complaints except for the 30 miles I did at interstate speeds. The wind basically wanted to splay my legs and I ended up just putting my feet back on the rear pegs "squid style". I wasn't comfortable either way but at least I wasn't catching wind.

Am I just a bowl legged oddball or has anyone else dealt with this? I've got stockpegs. Is this what lowered pegs are supposed to help with? Advice appreciated.
I rode 180 miles yesterday, 60 miles of interstate (up to 78mph, GPS), 40 dirt, the rest, twisty mountains. I am a bow legged oddball. I've never noticed 'the wind between my legs'.

I've often considered adding a windshield, but with all the reports of buffeting, wind noise and an occassional 'neck chop'; decided against it. I've paid close attention to the wind on my chest and helmet at hiway speeds and don't find it bothersome. I wear earplugs but that won't help with your legs.

Edit: Oops, I have my pegs down 1" and back 1", using NordieBoy's CAD drawing. I don't notice any difference until I stand up, then the bars fit me better.
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 10-02-2010 at 06:54 PM
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Old 10-02-2010, 07:05 PM   #40187
NJ-Brett
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Greed? Exchange rate?

Brett


Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15
Why did the dr650's price jump $600 between 2008 and 2009 according to Suzuki's website?
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Old 10-02-2010, 07:51 PM   #40188
FloridaSteve
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Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett
Greed? Exchange rate?

Brett
Greed? Yeah because sooooo many people have so much extra cash to spend on motorcycles that they figured they'd raise their prices and grab some of it. You must not own your own business. It's more expensive for Suzuki same as the rest of us.
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Old 10-02-2010, 07:58 PM   #40189
mx_rob
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: SW Michigan
Oddometer: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett
Well, the white plastic spacer is round, and sits on the shelf.
The shim I used is the same size as the white plastic bit.

I cant figure out why its made this way, a flat bottom on the slide, or a D shaped white spacer thing but its a D shaped slide bottom and a round spacer.......

What were they thinking when they made it that way???

Brett
I believe it is designed that way so that the spring force pushing on the white plastic spacer wrenches the needle into the needle jet on one side wearing it obround at the metering point thereby increasing expensive needle jet sales. Mine was literally shot at less than 10k miles. It also helps to wear the edge of the white plastic spacer where it sits on the D shelf so the needle drops and the mixture gets leaner and leaner as miles go by. I can't think of a more optimally designed carb.
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:06 PM   #40190
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel critter
the 'outlet' is an 8mm (12mm spanner) bolt, that is in the plastic side cover, with an 8mm cable bolted directly to the positive on the battery terminal. Its not for use while riding. I got up one morning, it was raining and cold and she wouldnt start, and I realised its a bit difficult to jump start, so I put a jump start point in.
I'm far from expert in electrical matters, but.....a friend of mine hooked up a cable to his battery for the same reason (on a F650 Dakar) with disastrous results: we watched his wiring harness burn up in the middle of Uzbekistan.




Check it out in our Ride Report:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...tral+asia+2010

post # 177

Yours may be perfectly ok, but it makes me nervous.

..............shu
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:10 PM   #40191
mx_rob
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Location: SW Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett
Well, since my plug experiment was off (bad idea), I decided to open up the airbox a little and see what happened.
I used tin snips to double the size of the hole the snorkel fit in and took the bike for a test ride.
Bogs badly now at full throttle and low or mid rpm's. Too much air.
But it had good high rpm power!

So I shimmed the needle a bit, slightly better, but it still bogs badly.
I don't have any main jets, 140 is what is in there, so there is not much I can do at the moment.
I used permatex ultra black silicone to glue the piece I cut out back in, with just a slightly larger hole then the snorkel.
Runs ok, but I guess I see why the pumper carb will work well, you can open up the airbox but still keep the main jet smaller then it needs to be with the stock carb.

That air box must be quite restrictive, since I had no bog with the snorkel out, low/mid rpm's and full throttle.

I left the shim under the needle for now, goofy setup, why it does not sit flat on the bottom of the slide is beyond me.

I should get a good muddy ride in tomorrow.

Brett
The stock air box is the number one restriction point to any type of performance gains on the DR650. The stock needle taper is too mild to allow any modifications to the air box opening.... more shimming will only add a rich spot down low and it will still be lean in the upper mid range. Leave the air box opening stock along with the stock main jet... or open the air box to let the engine breathe and buy a DJ kit with the correct needle to supply the required fuel for the increased air flow. Or chuck the BST in the bin where it belongs and get a real carb with a mechanically controlled slide. Then you can actually say you are riding a thumper.
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:18 PM   #40192
Reposado1800
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: 5th and Main
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx_rob
The stock air box is the number one restriction point to any type of performance gains on the DR650. The stock needle taper is too mild to allow any modifications to the air box opening.... more shimming will only add a rich spot down low and it will still be lean in the upper mid range. Leave the air box opening stock along with the stock main jet... or open the air box to let the engine breathe and buy a DJ kit with the correct needle to supply the required fuel for the increased air flow. Or chuck the BST in the bin where it belongs and get a real carb with a mechanically controlled slide. Then you can actually say you are riding a thumper.
I'd love to see pics of your fuel injection setup. Nice.
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:55 PM   #40193
canoli
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Not from round these parts.
Oddometer: 1,388
Odd stalling problem

It's happened twice in the last couple of rides. My bike will be running fine, then I will come up to a light or intersection, slow down then my engine just cuts out on me. It fires right back up and I can continue the ride no problems.

Thinking it might be a bit of water in the gas, slightly clogged inner filter...
Running stock carb and exhaust.

Ideas?

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:44 PM   #40194
jenx
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Oddometer: 553
Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli
It's happened twice in the last couple of rides. My bike will be running fine, then I will come up to a light or intersection, slow down then my engine just cuts out on me. It fires right back up and I can continue the ride no problems.

Thinking it might be a bit of water in the gas, slightly clogged inner filter...
Running stock carb and exhaust.

Ideas?

Thanks
Gotta be something like that canoli. Does the engine cut suddenly or does it sputter a little? Could also be an electrical fault.
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:50 PM   #40195
jenx
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Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy
I used a WR450 muffler, and a few months on I can say it rocks.
Snowy can you post as pic of your wr set-up?

I assume it also doesn't need repacking??
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jenx screwed with this post 10-02-2010 at 10:14 PM
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:50 PM   #40196
PAL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli
It's happened twice in the last couple of rides. My bike will be running fine, then I will come up to a light or intersection, slow down then my engine just cuts out on me. It fires right back up and I can continue the ride no problems.

Thinking it might be a bit of water in the gas, slightly clogged inner filter...
Running stock carb and exhaust.

Ideas?

Thanks
If none of your above mentioned "fixes" work, try giving your carbie a once over. Make sure everything is clean and functioning as it should be.
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Old 10-02-2010, 10:54 PM   #40197
canoli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenx
Gotta be something like that canoli. Does the engine cut suddenly or does it sputter a little? Could also be an electrical fault.
No sputter just dies. It did it again this afternoon in the same manner while I was making a run to get some carb cleaner (Thanks for the suggestion PAL). I was going to check the battery connections because I had to try and jump start a GS last week (see RR in sig line).


I also was thniking that it might have something to do with my stuck choke cable. I'm able to start the bike with little to no problem which leads me to think that the choke might actually be stuck partialy pulled out. I've already ordered the parts to fix this and it would be nice if I could kill two birds with one part. Is there a way to check this without taking the cable all the way off?

Thans again
Canoli
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Old 10-02-2010, 10:54 PM   #40198
Andyinhilo
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli
It's happened twice in the last couple of rides. My bike will be running fine, then I will come up to a light or intersection, slow down then my engine just cuts out on me. It fires right back up and I can continue the ride no problems.

Thinking it might be a bit of water in the gas, slightly clogged inner filter...
Running stock carb and exhaust.

Ideas?

Thanks
What is the idle speed like? The specs call for a 1500-1600 rpm idle. That is really fast, I suspect to eliminate the stalling, due to lean mixture. Stock, had to idle at about 1250 or so to eliminate stalling. If you remove the plug over the pilot screw, you can adjust so that a 1000 rpm idle is doable. As you note, check the filters in the tank and the carb inlet.
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:00 AM   #40199
gouralnik
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Road tyres and improved brake performance.

G'day everyone. Love this forum. I did a lot of research, read for over a week like a bible but couldn't find the advice I'm looking for.
I ride a 2010 Suzuki Dr 650 - I use it as city commuter only: unfortunately no gravel / offroad for me at the moment. I ride every day around 50km through Sydney in all weather conditions (I don't own a car). I've got 5600 kms on it now and it's still in "stock" form - Ventura rack and bag proved to be amazingly practical.
I want to change the rear & front tyre.

Questions:

1. What is the best road tyre combination for the DR? I'm especially concerned about good grip in wet weather/rain and durability. Are the
Pirellis MT90 Scorpion S/T as good as everyone says?

2. What would you install (in order of priority and brand ) in order to improve front and rear brake performance (no conversion to 320mm supermoto rotor & tyres allowed )?

Thank you for your suggestions.
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:33 AM   #40200
gtbensley
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Location: Kittery Maine
Oddometer: 250
Inconsistent Starting?

I am looking for some input on a 93 dr650. Starting this beast somedays can be a total pain in the butt, it just kicks over and over but wont start. Other times it will fire right up on the second kick.

Where should I look to start addressing the issue? Its kick start only so having it start easier would be really nice. Thanks for the help gents.
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