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Old 10-03-2010, 10:34 AM   #40201
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
What is the idle speed like? The specs call for a 1500-1600 rpm idle. That is really fast, I suspect to eliminate the stalling, due to lean mixture. Stock, had to idle at about 1250 or so to eliminate stalling. If you remove the plug over the pilot screw, you can adjust so that a 1000 rpm idle is doable. As you note, check the filters in the tank and the carb inlet.
Spot on advice Andy, as usual.
You will need to add an extended Fuel Pilot screw. Remove the tin plug (use wall board screw ... poke through and pull out cover) then carefully unscrew the Fuel Pilot screw and replace with extended screw. (Jesse, Pro Cycle) This will allow fine tuning ... very easy. Raising idle should help too. (1250 to 1400 RPM) If you suspect water ... unscrew float bowl drain screw (do outside) and drain float bowl. Look for water or crud in there.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:55 AM   #40202
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTreme
Yeh I saw that, but there are images not displaying so it wasn't that clear to me.
Are we talking cutting the top or the side here?
Is the Side Cover of your air box OFF? If so, this will be noisy. Replace the side cover. Check your main jet. What is in there? Do you have the stock needle? (it is Non-adjustable ... no clip notches)

Yes, you cut open the TOP. Cutting open the top per Jesse's guide is not too noisy, IMO. But to do this correctly you will need to get the Dyno Jet needle and go to larger main jet.

1. Cut air box top per Jesse instructions/template.
2. Order Dyno Jet kit (includes new adjustable needle and 3 main jets)
3. Put Air Box side cover back on.

Your K&N will work well with above set up. Try Dyno Jet needle on 3rd or 4th clip position from top. Stock Pilot jet, Fuel-Air Pilot mixture screw out about 1 turn out. (variable) Idle set to 1250 RPM.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:25 AM   #40203
XTreme
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Location: Granada, Spain
Oddometer: 617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
Is the Side Cover of your air box OFF? If so, this will be noisy. Replace the side cover. Check your main jet. What is in there? Do you have the stock needle? (it is Non-adjustable ... no clip notches)

Yes, you cut open the TOP. Cutting open the top per Jesse's guide is not too noisy, IMO. But to do this correctly you will need to get the Dyno Jet needle and go to larger main jet.

1. Cut air box top per Jesse instructions/template.
2. Order Dyno Jet kit (includes new adjustable needle and 3 main jets)
3. Put Air Box side cover back on.

Your K&N will work well with above set up. Try Dyno Jet needle on 3rd or 4th clip position from top. Stock Pilot jet, Fuel-Air Pilot mixture screw out about 1 turn out. (variable) Idle set to 1250 RPM.
Yes....it has been rejetted! And according to the previous owner, it's a lot better for it. Certainly goes well!
But the noise at speed is just too much.....hence my query! I'll cut the top out and hopefully that will improve it.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:47 AM   #40204
Garak
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Oddometer: 266
Quote:
Originally Posted by gouralnik

Questions:

1. What is the best road tyre combination for the DR? I'm especially concerned about good grip in wet weather/rain and durability. Are the
Pirellis MT90 Scorpion S/T as good as everyone says?
2. What would you install (in order of priority and brand ) in order to improve front and rear brake performance (no conversion to 320mm supermoto rotor & tyres allowed )?

Thank you for your suggestions.
1) I recently installed a set of Conti Trail Attacks (130/80 and 90/90) and so far I am very pleased. I can't report on wear, but they are designed for large trailies so should wear well on a "little" bike like this. Dry grip is amazing, though the feel is odd at first due to the unusual construction of Conti carcasses. Once you are accustomed to it though, very confidence inspiring. Wet grip (I live on Vancouver Island in Canada so this is important) has also been excellent thus far. I feel much more confident on wet pavement with these than i did on dry pavement with Trail Wings. Needless to say, they are pretty smooth and quiet as well.

2) Assuming your pads, rotors and master cylinder(s) are in decent shape the single best upgrade you can make to your brakes are braided stainless lines. For obvious reasons, you'll see a lot more improvement from the front brake line than the rear, so if you're on a budget, do that one first.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:49 PM   #40205
Ed-B
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GSXR can mod: Happy!

I did the GSXR/Jesse/DJ mods to my '08 DR650 this week, and I couldn't be happier with the results. Here's a recap:

I got a nice clean X40F0X GSXR can, and ordered the mid pipe and DJ kit from Jesse last week. While I was waiting for the parts to come here to Maine from Oregon I read everything that I could find about these mods here on ADV and on Thumpertalk, YouTube, etc. I'm now glad that I had to wait, because this time to do the research was key, and I learned quite a lot from what I read.

A few years ago I did a similar set of mods to my XT225, so this was a similar exercise for me. I wanted to get this right the first time on the DR - I did not want to mess with it, so I took the conservative route:

-Jesse's air box mod. I traced the top opening on the box around the frame rails while it was in the bike. I drilled the corner holes and used a Dremel tool to make the cuts, cleaning it up with a knife and file after. It looks very good.

-DJ needle with clip on the 4th groove from the top

-160 main jet

-adjustable fuel screw 1 turn out.

I did NOT drill the 2nd slide hole. I read Motolab's advice in this regard in the BST-40 thread and it sounded valid to me: No extra slide wear, no surging, no need to mess with cutting the spring to reduce preload, etc.

I did NOT do Jesse's white spacer mod. I can't see how it could be assumed that the circlip would ever stay on the edge of the shelf in the slide. I put the needle clip opening toward the slide shelf, and dropped it right down to the bottom of the slide. I used the DJ flat washer on top of the clip, per the DJ instructions. Thanks to 996DL for this clarification.

I did NOT grind the header weld. If the dyno shows no improvement, per Procycle's testing, and the weld could become compromised, resulting in a break/failure, then why bother?

I put the GSXR muffler on the inside of Jesse's bracket where it seemed to align naturally, and used some rubber washers to buffer these pieces. A big thanks to MX_Rob for all the GSXR can mod engineering. You are the man!

The bike started up and ran smoothly as soon as the carb bowl refueled. I was nearly floored at how well that went. Even the fuel screw setting was about perfect.

Now the throttle response is amazing, and the bike runs strong everywhere from idle to wide open. It's really fun to ride this thing now! I really can't imagine how a pumper carb could be that much better on my bike.

The GSXR muffler is a top quality piece, and that Two Brothers pipe kit that Jesse offers is equally nice. Perhaps the performance exhausts make a a better dyno chart, but what are we talking here, really? A couple of horse power? I don't know... But that Gixxer can works well, it sounds great, it looks stock with that "SUZUKI" etched right in the side, and it'll never need to be repacked.

Yes, I'm happy! Thanks guys!

Ed-B screwed with this post 10-03-2010 at 01:02 PM
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:52 PM   #40206
exoff-roadgoat
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: W.Meechigan
Oddometer: 4,137
Quote:
Originally Posted by mx_rob
Hey, where are you in SW MI? I don't get to meet many DR riders around here... I think most of them live in Australia. We have one down in Allegan who is coming over to my house next Saturday to work on his bike. Two's company... three's a party.
Grandville....thanks, I might just take you up on the free clinic. I'll PM if it will work.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:56 PM   #40207
mr openroad
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Location: Phoenix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-B
I did the GSXR/Jesse/DJ mods to my '08 DR650 this week, and I couldn't be happier with the results. Here's a recap:

I got a nice clean X40F0X GSXR can, and ordered the mid pipe and DJ kit from Jesse last week. While I was waiting for the parts to come here to Maine from Oregon I read everything that I could find about these mods here on ADV and on Thumpertalk, YouTube, etc.

A few years ago I did a similar set of mods to my XT225, so this was a similar exercise for me. I wanted to get this right the first time on the DR - I did not want to mess with it, so I took the conservative route:

-Jesse's air box mod. I traced the top opening on the box around the frame rails while it was in the bike. I drilled the corner holes and used a Dremel tool to make the cuts, cleaning it up with a knife and file after. It looks very good.

-DJ needle with clip on the 4th groove from the top

-160 main jet

-adjustable fuel screw 1 turn out.

I did NOT drill the 2nd slide hole. I read Motolab's advice in this regard on the BST40 thread and it sounded valid to me: No extra slide wear, no surging, no need to mess with cutting the spring to reduce preload, etc.

I did NOT do Jesse's white spacer mod. I can't see how it could be assumed that the circlip would ever stay on the shelf at the base of the slide. I put the needle clip opening toward the slide shelf, and dropped it right down at the base of the slide. I used the DJ flat washer on top of the clip, per the DJ instructions. Thanks to 996DL for this clarification.

I did NOT grind the header weld. If the dyno shows no improvement, per Procycle's testing, and the weld could become compromised, resulting in a break/failure, then why bother?

I put the GSXR muffler on the inside of Jesse's bracket where it seemed to align naturally, and used some rubber washers to buffer these pieces. A big thanks to MX_Rob for all the GSXR can mod engineering. You are the man!

The bike started up and ran smoothly as soon as the carb bowl refueled. I was nearly floored at how well that went. Even the fuel screw setting was about perfect.

Now the throttle response is amazing, and the bike runs strong everywhere from idle to wide open. It's really fun to ride this thing now! I really can't imagine how a pumper carb could be that much better on my bike.

The GSXR muffler is a top quality piece, and that Two Brothers pipe kit that Jesse offers is equally nice. Perhaps the performance exhausts make a a better dyno chart, but what are we talking here, really? A couple of horse power? I don't know... But that Gixxer can works well, it sounds great, it looks stock with that "SUZUKI" etched right in the side, and it'll never need to be repacked.

Yes, I'm happy! Thanks guys!
congrats! how much did the whole thing run you?
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:09 PM   #40208
Ed-B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr openroad
congrats! how much did the whole thing run you?
It was about $350 for everything.

I got the GSXR muffler for $50, the rest was Jesse's pipe kit, DynoJet kit, carb bowl screws, adjustable fuel screw, shipping, etc.

I think it was money well spent!
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:23 PM   #40209
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-B
I did NOT drill the 2nd slide hole. I read Motolab's advice in this regard in the BST-40 thread and it sounded valid to me: No extra slide wear, no surging, no need to mess with cutting the spring to reduce preload, etc.
The hole in the slide on the KTM is twice the size of the DR one.
I got 80,000km with no slide wear with 2 DR sized holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-B
I did NOT do Jesse's white spacer mod. I can't see how it could be assumed that the circlip would ever stay on the edge of the shelf in the slide. I put the needle clip opening toward the slide shelf, and dropped it right down to the bottom of the slide. I used the DJ flat washer on top of the clip, per the DJ instructions. Thanks to 996DL for this clarification.
The spacer mod is to keep the needle straight. No other reason.
The needle jet will last much longer if this mod is done but you have to allow for the thickness of the spacer with your clip setting. 4th from top = top with spacer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-B
I did NOT grind the header weld. If the dyno shows no improvement, per Procycle's testing, and the weld could become compromised, resulting in a break/failure, then why bother?
How bad was your weld? No 2 DR's have the same weld or amount of restriction. My header had 60% more surface area after grinding the weld and no turbulence.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-B
Now the throttle response is amazing, and the bike runs strong everywhere from idle to wide open. It's really fun to ride this thing now! I really can't imagine how a pumper carb could be that much better on my bike.
It's great isn't it

I couldn't imagine how a pumper could improve on it either.

After 3 1/2 years of DynoJet kitted and dyno tuned bliss I tried one.

It does...
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:43 PM   #40210
jenx
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Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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OK, it's official ... I am a rookie I rode today with some pretty experienced guys who took the dr places where I seriously battled to follow.

Put simply Jenx was too slow and too nervous. But those guys I rode with were so patient!

I took a tumble early on in the ride (some fairly gnarly single track) and dented the tank as well scratched the light cowling Oh and slightly sprained left ankle. Not cool. But I learnt a lot today. In fact a sh-tload.

So IMS tank, here I come!
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:54 PM   #40211
mr openroad
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Location: Phoenix
Oddometer: 4,083
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenx
OK, it's official ... I am a rookie I rode today with some pretty experienced guys who took the dr places where I seriously battled to follow.

Put simply Jenx was too slow and too nervous. But those guys I rode with were so patient!

I took a tumble early on in the ride (some fairly gnarly single track) and dented the tank as well scratched the light cowling Oh and slightly sprained left ankle. Not cool. But I learnt a lot today. In fact a sh-tload.

So IMS tank, here I come!
glad to hear you made it to fight another day! and you wanted that IMS tank anyway right?
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:59 PM   #40212
jenx
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Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr openroad
glad to hear you made it to fight another day! and you wanted that IMS tank anyway right?
Hey thanks man. Yeah I wanted that tank anywayz! Just gotta find the moolah. The dollar is nice and weak at the mo' - so good time to buy!!
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Old 10-03-2010, 02:14 PM   #40213
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Location: The Wild-Wild West... Northern Nevada
Oddometer: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. Osoyoos specifically. Canada'a only desert, it's the northern tip of the Sonoran desert that runs all the way north from Mexico.
Wow the Sonoran Desert must be REALLY skinny when it passes my place in Nevada as it stretches up to Canada from Southern california/Nevada!
I should have paid more attention in geography!
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Old 10-03-2010, 02:21 PM   #40214
Ed-B
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Jesse's justification for the spacer mod is based on the premise that the circlip sits on the top of the shelf. After examining the parts and reviewing MX_Robs carb needle images I'm not convinced that's how the DynoJet folks intended it to be. With the clip on the very bottom of the slide the needle sat square and was pointed straight down. And it also appeared to have a good clean path of travel in the jet tube when I cycled the slide before I put the carb back on the bike.

I suppose there must be something more to be gained with a pumper carb if you folks are all progressing to that after riding the tweaked BST-40.

Maybe I'll go there myself after I burn out the needle/slide/jet/diaphram stuff on the CV carb But seriously, I'm going to enjoy this level of improvement for awhile before I get a pumper carb.

And the DR650 can be a real money pit if you want to get carried away. There's always a point of diminishing returns with these things.

I may be looking at the successor to the DR650 before I feel the need to do much more to my bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
The hole in the slide on the KTM is twice the size of the DR one.
I got 80,000km with no slide wear with 2 DR sized holes.


The spacer mod is to keep the needle straight. No other reason.
The needle jet will last much longer if this mod is done but you have to allow for the thickness of the spacer with your clip setting. 4th from top = top with spacer.


How bad was your weld? No 2 DR's have the same weld or amount of restriction. My header had 60% more surface area after grinding the weld and no turbulence.


It's great isn't it

I couldn't imagine how a pumper could improve on it either.

After 3 1/2 years of DynoJet kitted and dyno tuned bliss I tried one.

It does...

Ed-B screwed with this post 10-03-2010 at 02:27 PM
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:29 PM   #40215
RiDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-B
And the DR650 can be a real money pit if you want to get carried away. There's always a point of diminishing returns with these things.

I may be looking at the successor to the DR650 before I feel the need to do much more to my bike.
Hey Ed-B, cool name! The DR can be a money pit but so worth it! Just some body & suspension mods for me.




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