ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-11-2010, 07:27 AM   #40561
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 1,954
Clutch cable replacement is darn easy. I had mine out over the weekend to reroute it for a taller handlebar riser.

In short, remove the clutch lever... remove seat and gas tank. Feed cable down and out of the triple clamp area, and loose the zip ties as needed to get it all the way down to tranny. Loosen nut to remove from tranny.

Then put the new one back same as the old came out, unless you're adding a bar riser. Then get creative and run cable to OTHER side of frame and up, and that'll give you the extra slack.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'10 Kawasaki KLX351S #320
'01 Yamaha FZ1
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 07:34 AM   #40562
Razorback Rider
Dyin' to Ride
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas- GO HOGS!!
Oddometer: 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G
Clutch cable replacement is darn easy. I had mine out over the weekend to reroute it for a taller handlebar riser.

In short, remove the clutch lever... remove seat and gas tank. Feed cable down and out of the triple clamp area, and loose the zip ties as needed to get it all the way down to tranny. Loosen nut to remove from tranny.

Then put the new one back same as the old came out, unless you're adding a bar riser. Then get creative and run cable to OTHER side of frame and up, and that'll give you the extra slack.

Rob
Rob- that does sound easy. Based on that, i think i'm gonna try. i'm pretty good at basic mechanics, its just doing something that i've never done tends to steer me away. Cool. I am grateful for your quick response!

One more dumb question- when i buy the clutch cable, does it come pre cut to size? What about the lead stopper ends? Or, do i buy it, measure it, and crimp ends? Thanks, man!
__________________
"60% of the time, it works EVERYTIME." -Brian Fantana
Razorback Rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 07:59 AM   #40563
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 1,954
Order your cable from ProCycle (www.procycle.us)... it should come ready to install. I've never tried making cables before. :)

I've ordered so much stuff from ProCycle... great prices, great selection, great service. And I STILL have more to order when my bank account recovers. It's especially nice that they're only an hour away.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'10 Kawasaki KLX351S #320
'01 Yamaha FZ1
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 08:13 AM   #40564
Fire Escape
Beastly Adventurer
 
Fire Escape's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Epsom, NH
Oddometer: 1,334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G
Clutch cable replacement is darn easy. I had mine out over the weekend to reroute it for a taller handlebar riser.

In short, remove the clutch lever... remove seat and gas tank. Feed cable down and out of the triple clamp area, and loose the zip ties as needed to get it all the way down to tranny. Loosen nut to remove from tranny.

Then put the new one back same as the old came out, unless you're adding a bar riser. Then get creative and run cable to OTHER side of frame and up, and that'll give you the extra slack.

Rob



Rob- that does sound easy. Based on that, i think i'm gonna try. i'm pretty good at basic mechanics, its just doing something that i've never done tends to steer me away. Cool. I am grateful for your quick response!

One more dumb question- when i buy the clutch cable, does it come pre cut to size? What about the lead stopper ends? Or, do i buy it, measure it, and crimp ends? Thanks, man!

If you buy a bike specific cable (i.e. intended to fit your bike model) it will be already assembled at the proper length. Sometimes you can skip removing the seat and tank by taping the new cable to the old and snaking it through but that will depend upon where and how the old one was secured. Take a moment to look at where an old cable broke. It is rarely in the middle and likely the result of inadequate lubrication of the barrel in the lever or at the clutch arm causing the cable to flex excessively. Start the new cable out in life with proper routing and lubrication, you may not ever need to change it again!


Bruce
__________________
No one calls the Fire Department because they did something smart!
06 DR 650, Moose RS Holder, Handguards and Skidplate, ProTaper bars, Garmin 60CSx, Motech racks w/ 20mm Ammo cans, Renazco, TKCs summer/17" SM wheels winter 08 Scrambler, Conti Trail Attacks and BlackTiger Fork mod, 05 FSE 450, 03 KLR 250, 02 FXDX, 72 WR 250 (again), 72 SL 350 K2 (again), 72 TR6R, 06 XT 225
Fire Escape is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 08:49 AM   #40565
Razorback Rider
Dyin' to Ride
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas- GO HOGS!!
Oddometer: 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G
Clutch cable replacement is darn easy. I had mine out over the weekend to reroute it for a taller handlebar riser.

In short, remove the clutch lever... remove seat and gas tank. Feed cable down and out of the triple clamp area, and loose the zip ties as needed to get it all the way down to tranny. Loosen nut to remove from tranny.

Then put the new one back same as the old came out, unless you're adding a bar riser. Then get creative and run cable to OTHER side of frame and up, and that'll give you the extra slack.

Rob



Rob- that does sound easy. Based on that, i think i'm gonna try. i'm pretty good at basic mechanics, its just doing something that i've never done tends to steer me away. Cool. I am grateful for your quick response!

One more dumb question- when i buy the clutch cable, does it come pre cut to size? What about the lead stopper ends? Or, do i buy it, measure it, and crimp ends? Thanks, man!

If you buy a bike specific cable (i.e. intended to fit your bike model) it will be already assembled at the proper length. Sometimes you can skip removing the seat and tank by taping the new cable to the old and snaking it through but that will depend upon where and how the old one was secured. Take a moment to look at where an old cable broke. It is rarely in the middle and likely the result of inadequate lubrication of the barrel in the lever or at the clutch arm causing the cable to flex excessively. Start the new cable out in life with proper routing and lubrication, you may not ever need to change it again!


Bruce
Duely noted from both of you! I really appreciate this. I am procycle.com now ordering one. i realize after more homework and left-clicking that the cables are pre cut, etc. That was a stupid question. I was thinking back to when i was a kid replacing brake cables on my bicycle! duh.
__________________
"60% of the time, it works EVERYTIME." -Brian Fantana
Razorback Rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 09:12 AM   #40566
XTreme
Mucho Macho
 
XTreme's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Granada, Spain
Oddometer: 617
New Michelin Sirac fitted today!



Unfortunately the speedo cable snapped on the way to the dealers so they've had to order me a new one! Along with the four rubber grommets securing the speedo cos they had perished!
XTreme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 12:27 PM   #40567
ryzer
n00b
 
ryzer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Oddometer: 7
scary noise!

So after another wicked warm ride here in beautifull Edmonton Alberta, I pulled up to my house put it in neutral threw the kickstand down got of my bike and as I was pulling my helmut off I heard the most awfull metal on metal noise coming from the clutch side of the motor like something metal was being thrown around in there. It lasted for like 15 seconds then was gone and has since not returned anyone else experience this before?
I want to get one more ride out today then it comes in the house and is getting a living room rebuild over the winter haha as I do not have a garage lol.

Plus I have one more question any other tall fat bastards out there like me im 6'5'' 250 pounds with aluminum panniers and rear rack. So the question is for you freaks what is your setup that you run for suspension, seat height etc.....?
Thanks
Ryzer
p.s. I just passed my bike license on friday so now I get to ride legally hahaha
ryzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 01:12 PM   #40568
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 1,954
ryzer...

Regarding that noise... if I had to guess, I'd say it was an NSU screw. Have you opened yours up to Lock-Tite them yet? If not, you might wanna NOT ride again until you can get into it and see. If one is missing, I would worry. But I'd also thank the good Lord that your whole motor didn't go if that really was the case.

After seeing the photo here of the guy whose magnetic drain plug (which the DR doesn't come with, btw) picked up a loose NSU screw, I grabbed one on my next ProCycle order.

As for suspension, I dunno, I'm only 5'8 and 175 with gear on. :)

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'10 Kawasaki KLX351S #320
'01 Yamaha FZ1
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 01:58 PM   #40569
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
Rusty Rocket's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
Oddometer: 7,823
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650Lover
im sure it's been discussed several times on here, but can't seem to find it in the almost 3000 pages of this forum. Awesome, i didn't realize there were so many DR lovers out there!! Just wondering if any of you have ever replaced the clutch cable before. If so, how difficult was it. Or, do yall just recommend i take it in to the dealer? Mine broke on me yesterday at the handle. Thanks everyone!
Did you look at the post I made an hour and a half before yours?
3 posts before you posted, I stated that I put on a new clutch cable.

One trick I used was to zip-tie the top of the new cable to the bottom of the old one and use the old cable to pull the new through the wire nest behind the headlight.
__________________
2009 DR650 ..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
Rusty Rocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 02:43 PM   #40570
svwayne
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Lawrenceville, Jawja
Oddometer: 944
Q for those with Seat Concepts seat

Got my new Seat Concepts seat over the weekend. Quality appears to be top notch. I have not installed the cover/foam yet but on initial look it appears the Seat Concepts foam is ~1" lower right in the "valley" up near the seat. I spend a lot of time "up on the tank" offroad and my old knees need all the help they can get when I need to stand up. If you've got a Seat Concepts seat then have you noticed that it appears/feels lower when sitting up near the tank?

I'll probably give them a call tomorrow but wanted to get the general consensus from those in the know.

Thanks!
svwayne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 03:54 PM   #40571
puntoMX
Lost in Cyberspace
 
puntoMX's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Santiago de Querétaro, Mexico
Oddometer: 398
Laugh 101%

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy
BWAHAHAHAHA.

Stop it, my pancreas hurts.

BWAHAHAHA.

Oh....god...I think I burst a spleen......(part shit stir, part sarcasm)

As much as everyone loves their DR, the cold hard reality is that Suzuki have left it in the 80s.

For the prices we pay here they are grossly over priced, and they are one of the cheapest bikes on the market.

It's high time Suzuki upgraded the thing to have at least proper adjustable suspension. Stock standard - if anyone ever leaves them that way - they are deadly. Shoddy rubber (say what you like about trail wings, you're digging your own grave) and soft under damped suspension must surely claim lives. Probably in less developed countries, so I suppose it doesn't matter. Right?

Suzuki show their contempt for us consumers by leaving it as is. The only reason they haven't changed it is it fills a market niche that no one else can be bothered playing around with. The backyard tinkerer segment.

If you were serious about doing longer trips you'd probably go the KLR650. If you wanted to do more highway miles you'd go a Vee Strom. If you were more into dirt, you'd aim for a DRZ. If you want trail weapons and don't mind expensive rebuilds every 6 months you'd buy any one of the 450s.

But if you want to just commute, do the odd sojourn into the woods, go and play on back roads or do easy "novice" style weekend solo trips, then welcome to the age of Disco.

If you want any more than "basic" stuff out of the DR, whip out your credit card and get onto the interwebz, and stock up on tools and beer, and find yourself some forum buddies to swap stories with.

and therein lies their popularity. Easy to see why the Japanese just leave it alone.

A very strange juxtaposition. It so needs updating.....but that would kill what makes it so popular.
Yup, I agree too.

What you did with your bike would scare the shit out of the average Joe here by the way but there are some, say 20, among us that will NOT bring up the "seat n' tire" subject and start improving the bike starting with the suspension as the DR650 was always missing some good setup there, hell, even the DR600 has a lousy suspension setup.

Snowy, I love to have you in the club!
__________________
Suzuki DR650 '92
[Mods to do] Luggage system w/ Pelican 1520 (Thanks to inmate 685), or softbags
[Mods in the make] Tool tube with tools
[Mods done] 1 1/8" handlebar - KLR650 Shock on DR650s - ZX-10R directionals on DR650s - RMZ450 muffler on DR650s - Acerbis Mollsoft taillight - Trailtech Vapor – Twin Air - Metzeler Tourance - Tusk sealsavers - more to come
puntoMX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 04:00 PM   #40572
Squiggles
Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Auckland, NZ
Oddometer: 23
My DR has what I would call a slight whine down low in third, only notice if i short shift into third and accelerate, not really if sitting steady or higher revs. Bash plate seems to amplify it a fair bit (along with all the other noises)
Bike was manufactured in April 2007 so presumably has the newer part?
Squiggles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 05:26 PM   #40573
NJ-Brett
Brett
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Southern New Jersey
Oddometer: 5,663
Since I am waiting for my pumper carb to arrive, I thought it was the perfect time to check the neutral switch screws.

Footpeg off, brake arm off, clutch arm off, oil lines off, side cover off.
I used a sharpy to number the screws...

My screws were tight, I used stud and bearing mount on the screws, they will not fall out.

The gasket was not reusable, but I had one from my procycle order.

I put grease on the brake pivot stuff and the clutch cable nub.

Oil pump gear looked good, as did everything else in there.

1998, 6200 miles, I don't know the motor history.

Brett
NJ-Brett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 05:40 PM   #40574
H14
I Gotta Go!
 
H14's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Oddometer: 3,977
I finally got my hands on a GSXR can, not the coveted 1000 but one off a 650. Now I need a midpipe. If I understand this right I can go the Two Brothers route from Jesse for $210 and I'm done, or I can buy a Hindle and fabricate a flange and a mounting bracket extension and save a few bucks.
Am I missing anything? If I go the Hindle route where is the best place to buy?
__________________
I wish life was simple and I was complicated, somehow I've managed to get it backwards.
H14 and Campcook wandering aimlessly 2-up
2012 Riding the Continental Divide
H14 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 05:45 PM   #40575
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
ADV8's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,110
Mikuni TM40

Has anyone got the as delivered jetting and float height for a Procycle TM40.

A few months back I pulled into Top Springs to find it was loosing fuel by one of the vent hoses.
Stripped the carb there but the inlets seat seemed clean.
I had noticed when fitting the Procycle engine armour it started to vent when leaned over to the left (fit clutch cover armour)

The ride from Darwin to NSW a few weeks ago was delivering as low as 11 kms/litre....up to 20 near the end after I had dropped the needle to I think the second position from top...that should be to lean but seemed fine on the road (4200 km trip)
Here in the lower states after the tropics it now seems lean again but coming out of a store yesterday it was sitting in a pool of petrol,the carb overflowing again.
There is either a seat problem or perhaps the floats,will have a look.

Just don't have the jetting specs with me.
Anyone have jetting for lower Australia maybe. ?
__________________
Les .. 1968 Husqvarna MF250 and MF360 - 1971 Norton Commando Fastback - 1973 Kawasaki H2A - 1973 Ducati 750 GT - 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado - 1974 Kawasaki H2B - 1974 Triumph TR5T Trophy Trail - 1981 Ducati 900 SD - 1986 Husqvarna 400 WR - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 2007 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S - 2008 Suzuki DR780.
ADV8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 02:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014