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Old 11-01-2010, 09:28 PM   #41326
edgy
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Location: Gtown,SA
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The little DR is starting to take shape - fitted the IMS tank, screens for bikes screen and a footpeg lowering kit last night!
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:44 PM   #41327
inire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inire
Symptoms: decreasing MPG amd gradually increasing oil leak(s)-

Blocked engine vent?
answering my own post -0 looks like maybe so- we'll see.
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:00 PM   #41328
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas
A couple weeks ago I scored a larger aftermarket windshield for my V-Strom for $20 from an honest craigslist user in Fresno. He sent it for an additional $20 and it was great. So, my stock windshield sat in my building. As I kept looking at it, I held it up to the DR650 and thought that it looked pretty damned good. After some thought , I drilled a couple holes and mounted it. It is adjustable and doesn't look too bad, actually like it was made for it.
If you remove it for any reason, spin it around top-to-bottom and hold it up to the shroud. It fits even better that way
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:49 PM   #41329
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
The last pair I bought still had the new tags on them. Never used. This is typical of what you can find around here.

I always wash everything anyway, so no worries. I invite you to visit your local bicycle emporium and price those Italian Gel padded Chamois riding shorts. Hey, buy two pair, its only money! .... your money.
I use the cycling gel padded shorts for long rides - more than 4 hours in the saddle in one stretch - and they work great for holding off the onset of monkey butt.

10 hour days saw the last hour getting a tad uncomfortable. But I moved the pegs down and back enough that I can stand comfortably, and I spend the last couple of hours of each long day alternately standing and sitting for around 5 mins at a time.

Just take my word for it - don't stand all the way through a long downhill section of tar road hairpins - you'll get too cocky and overcook it eventually.

No contact, no foul. But some heart stopping memories.
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:52 PM   #41330
macrae85
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Location: New Zealand,Scotland,Arizona USA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepywombat
there are hundereds of threads on the dr650 so why not have a meeting point for all dr riders in one place, ask questions, ride reports, pics, modifications that do and dont work, new gear that becomes available etc etc etc...... we have to show the klr guys what we are all about !!!
Just bought my DR650 in New York,2000 model,only 2800mls for a bargain $1000,downside,ex-pound bike,needing a wee tidy up,runs good!Still deciding what route to go with it,on the Supermoto front(i Supermoto all my bikes due to short legs).As it's heading to Latin America eventually,not sure yet to go the practical route or the cosmetic one using my French contacts for all the trick stuff!Time to start scouring eBay etc!
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:22 PM   #41331
Adv Grifter
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Wow! You actually quoted Sleepy Wombat .... and the very first post of this thread from years ago! Cool! You've got a few pages to read to catch up regards DR650 info.

If you're going to Latin America and plan to do any sort of off road, I would advise against going Super Moto. A 17" front will ruin off road handling. Besides, you can easily LOWER the DR a couple inches while retaining the 21" front wheel. I'm only 5' 6" have no issues on stock bike. No need whatsoever to flat foot it on the DR. Just ride it ... you'll adapt.

I set a DR650 up for a 5' tall / 100 lbs. lady friend. Lowering links (Dog bones) and fork tubes raised in triple clamps did the trick for her .... both feet could touch down. Bike still handled pretty good.

If your bike came out of a junk yard I would do a very careful check before leaving the country. Check out Jammin' Jay over in Ride Reports for inspiration.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:29 PM   #41332
Snowy
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In the near future, I will be experimenting with a 19 inch front using low profile MotoX rear tyres.

It's an attempt at adapting for serious long distance sand work. Much wider front tyres to get the flotation.

At a guess, looking at tyre profiles and widths, and with my USD front end, I should be able to get away with a 120 width in an 80 profile. Overall OD would be just slightly smaller than a 21, but would be an alternative for a shorter person with lowering the forks in the triples etc.

I'm just not sure about the clearance in the standard fork legs. I have to wait until my second DR with the normal front end comes back from it's work as design jig.

But I think it's doable. Makes a good compromise to going to a 17 front. There are dual sport 19 inch tyres available for the BMWs and such.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:33 AM   #41333
YnotJP?
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Location: Philippines and Seattle
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Snowy, what are we the redheaded step-brothers over here. You post pictures of your's on Most Tricked and not here?

By the way it looks very nice.
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:06 AM   #41334
Flatulator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx_rob
No! No lube or sealant should go on the outside surface of the seal where it contacts the case. The case bore should be free of grease and oil as well. Do put some lube on the seal where it contacts the output shaft.
YES ! ... YES ! ... retaining compound !

Hey Rob ... in a perfect world where everything is new and shiny and correct ... then yes ... theree is no need for any added adhesive on an oil seals outside surface

... but these guys (apparently) no longer have a "perfect world" ... these are the 2nd and 3rd people documented here ... whos engines have POPPED these seals out ... put in new ones ... an then THEY popped out in short order

One guy (previously) even went to the trouble of making a mechanical seal retainer...
... were these cases seal pocket's machining - somehow flawed from the factory ? ... I don't know ... I'm not there to see and measure/look at it.

aren't you admitting that there is something wrong when you recomended staking the seal pocket edge with a prick punch ? ... yes

these people are better off NOT staking the case ... they are better off doing it the right way ... which is with a retaining compound like I said.

... staking is a last resort ... ... or done by those who don't know any better

... and for those doing it ... ya gotta do about a 3 step process to clean the surface - leaving no oily residue (for the retaining compound to work proper) ... a final couple of wipes with an evaporating solvent like BrakeKleen
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:18 AM   #41335
Paddle007
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I'm a shop foreman over 3 to 4 auto techs. My guys know better than to install a dry seal under my watch. It may be unnecessary but it's a bitch pulling a timing cover and belt back off because a seal blew out. We use 3M yellow adhesive. If you are quick with the install the seal will typically push in with your fingers when the yellow glue is soft. Wait too long and you will have to remove the glue and start over. Maybe it's unneccessary but what harm can a little adhesive around the sides of a seal hurt? FWIW I have also staked some of the real problematic seals.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:35 AM   #41336
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007
I'm a shop foreman over 3 to 4 auto techs. My guys know better than to install a dry seal under my watch. It may be unnecessary but it's a bitch pulling a timing cover and belt back off because a seal blew out. We use 3M yellow adhesive. If you are quick with the install the seal will typically push in with your fingers when the yellow glue is soft. Wait too long and you will have to remove the glue and start over. Maybe it's unneccessary but what harm can a little adhesive around the sides of a seal hurt? FWIW I have also staked some of the real problematic seals.
Could you be more specific on the 3M yellow adhesive, initially it reminds me of their weatherstrip adhesive ?... Good post by the way and thanks, pretty common to replace seals when renewing automotive timing belts and your experience is appreciated.

996DL
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:12 PM   #41337
Paddle007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL
Could you be more specific on the 3M yellow adhesive, initially it reminds me of their weatherstrip adhesive ?... Good post by the way and thanks, pretty common to replace seals when renewing automotive timing belts and your experience is appreciated.

996DL
Yes you are correct, commonly called gorilla snot but specifically weather strip adhesive. As always, clean your mounting surface of oil and prelube your seal. I always love the shuffle of fresh sealant on the exterior surface and grease on the inside with no time to waste:)
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:01 PM   #41338
mx_rob
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Location: SW Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatulator
YES ! ... YES ! ... retaining compound !

.. and for those doing it ... ya gotta do about a 3 step process to clean the surface - leaving no oily residue (for the retaining compound to work proper) ... a final couple of wipes with an evaporating solvent like BrakeKleen
Very much agreed on the proper cleaning process. Rubber gets great traction on aluminum as long as both surfaces are free of oil. Both of the compounds you mention are designed for steel parts... not rubber. I would just wonder if the compound would deteriorate the rubber?
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:56 PM   #41339
bkoz
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Is the OD of the output shaft seal metal or rubber covered? If metal install with 242 or 243 loctite, if rubber covered install with hi temp silicone. And dimpling the seal bore with a center punch will also work wonders.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:58 PM   #41340
Paddle007
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I don't want to step on anyones toes........but silicone is not an adhesive,it's slippery. I have seen too many gaskets squirt out of place that had silicone as a adhesive or sealer. I suggest another sealer which I highly recommend. Permatex offers a product called "The Right Stuff" The good, it is great for adhesive and sealing. The bad, ii's a PITA to remove once cured, if used on thin material you may bend or break something trying to remove it. It is pricey, almost $20.00 for a small caulking tube size. Now in silicones defense there are better or worse products. The automotive OEM stuff is typically great. FWIW we only use The Right Stuff in our shop. I'm running a test on my IMS tank petcock on my DR650. You guessed what I used, The Right Stuff. It's been about 5 months and no leaks "yet"
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