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Old 11-02-2010, 07:06 AM   #41326
Flatulator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx_rob
No! No lube or sealant should go on the outside surface of the seal where it contacts the case. The case bore should be free of grease and oil as well. Do put some lube on the seal where it contacts the output shaft.
YES ! ... YES ! ... retaining compound !

Hey Rob ... in a perfect world where everything is new and shiny and correct ... then yes ... theree is no need for any added adhesive on an oil seals outside surface

... but these guys (apparently) no longer have a "perfect world" ... these are the 2nd and 3rd people documented here ... whos engines have POPPED these seals out ... put in new ones ... an then THEY popped out in short order

One guy (previously) even went to the trouble of making a mechanical seal retainer...
... were these cases seal pocket's machining - somehow flawed from the factory ? ... I don't know ... I'm not there to see and measure/look at it.

aren't you admitting that there is something wrong when you recomended staking the seal pocket edge with a prick punch ? ... yes

these people are better off NOT staking the case ... they are better off doing it the right way ... which is with a retaining compound like I said.

... staking is a last resort ... ... or done by those who don't know any better

... and for those doing it ... ya gotta do about a 3 step process to clean the surface - leaving no oily residue (for the retaining compound to work proper) ... a final couple of wipes with an evaporating solvent like BrakeKleen
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:18 AM   #41327
Paddle007
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I'm a shop foreman over 3 to 4 auto techs. My guys know better than to install a dry seal under my watch. It may be unnecessary but it's a bitch pulling a timing cover and belt back off because a seal blew out. We use 3M yellow adhesive. If you are quick with the install the seal will typically push in with your fingers when the yellow glue is soft. Wait too long and you will have to remove the glue and start over. Maybe it's unneccessary but what harm can a little adhesive around the sides of a seal hurt? FWIW I have also staked some of the real problematic seals.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:35 AM   #41328
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007
I'm a shop foreman over 3 to 4 auto techs. My guys know better than to install a dry seal under my watch. It may be unnecessary but it's a bitch pulling a timing cover and belt back off because a seal blew out. We use 3M yellow adhesive. If you are quick with the install the seal will typically push in with your fingers when the yellow glue is soft. Wait too long and you will have to remove the glue and start over. Maybe it's unneccessary but what harm can a little adhesive around the sides of a seal hurt? FWIW I have also staked some of the real problematic seals.
Could you be more specific on the 3M yellow adhesive, initially it reminds me of their weatherstrip adhesive ?... Good post by the way and thanks, pretty common to replace seals when renewing automotive timing belts and your experience is appreciated.

996DL
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:12 PM   #41329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL
Could you be more specific on the 3M yellow adhesive, initially it reminds me of their weatherstrip adhesive ?... Good post by the way and thanks, pretty common to replace seals when renewing automotive timing belts and your experience is appreciated.

996DL
Yes you are correct, commonly called gorilla snot but specifically weather strip adhesive. As always, clean your mounting surface of oil and prelube your seal. I always love the shuffle of fresh sealant on the exterior surface and grease on the inside with no time to waste:)
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:01 PM   #41330
mx_rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatulator
YES ! ... YES ! ... retaining compound !

.. and for those doing it ... ya gotta do about a 3 step process to clean the surface - leaving no oily residue (for the retaining compound to work proper) ... a final couple of wipes with an evaporating solvent like BrakeKleen
Very much agreed on the proper cleaning process. Rubber gets great traction on aluminum as long as both surfaces are free of oil. Both of the compounds you mention are designed for steel parts... not rubber. I would just wonder if the compound would deteriorate the rubber?
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:56 PM   #41331
bkoz
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Is the OD of the output shaft seal metal or rubber covered? If metal install with 242 or 243 loctite, if rubber covered install with hi temp silicone. And dimpling the seal bore with a center punch will also work wonders.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:58 PM   #41332
Paddle007
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I don't want to step on anyones toes........but silicone is not an adhesive,it's slippery. I have seen too many gaskets squirt out of place that had silicone as a adhesive or sealer. I suggest another sealer which I highly recommend. Permatex offers a product called "The Right Stuff" The good, it is great for adhesive and sealing. The bad, ii's a PITA to remove once cured, if used on thin material you may bend or break something trying to remove it. It is pricey, almost $20.00 for a small caulking tube size. Now in silicones defense there are better or worse products. The automotive OEM stuff is typically great. FWIW we only use The Right Stuff in our shop. I'm running a test on my IMS tank petcock on my DR650. You guessed what I used, The Right Stuff. It's been about 5 months and no leaks "yet"
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:33 PM   #41333
1320King
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Hmmm...

1320King screwed with this post 04-25-2011 at 03:00 PM
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:49 PM   #41334
advfrk
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Today I put the seal back in and used the BLACK gasket making compound around the outside. The black I was told holds up to heat better. Gonna let it sit for 24 hrs and ride the hell out of it tomorrow night. Wish me good thoughts, cause I have a rally this weekend in the Desoto Ntl forest here in Mississippi. Our 2nd annual. Please let it hold! Anyone close by should come its some great riding and we are cooking whole hogs. May the DR gods be with me! Thanks guys for all the help!

Jason
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:02 PM   #41335
kezzajohnson
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Helmet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320King
Hey guys,here is my 09 DR 650 that I just purchased about 2 weeks ago. It only has 510 miles on it and is very clean. It came with a hitch carrier,helmet and the original seat as well. Previous owner says the rack is one he purchased from the dealer.


Nice bike. Should be clean for only 510miles. Don't mean to burst your bubble but, have you ever heard the expression Secondhand Helmet for a Secondhand Head ? Don't do it !
Sorry, that's just the riding instructor coming out in me.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:31 PM   #41336
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41,387 posts. It's clear that DR650 owners like to talk about their motorcycle of choice, almost as much as they like riding them.
Here's another chance...
I've started a little project, and I need your help. I'm trying to get a listing for the DR650 in The Bike Specific Index Thread, as it rightly deserves. In doing so, we'll be making info about our favorite subject much more accessible.

I've come up with several different topics that I feel cover most of the important aspects of the DR650SE. For each category, I'm going to start a thread, and ask the collective for what they've found to work best. That's where you come in.

The first three threads are up. CONTROLS/INSTRUMENTATION, SEATS, and
CRASH PROTECTION
. More will follow.

To be clear- I don't want to "steal the thunder" from this thread at all. I check this thread two or three times a day, and really enjoy watching it evolve.
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:15 PM   #41337
EvanADV
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Location: Joplor, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty ...
41,387 posts. It's clear that DR650 owners like to talk about their motorcycle of choice, almost as much as they like riding them.
Here's another chance...
I've started a little project, and I need your help. I'm trying to get a listing for the DR650 in The Bike Specific Index Thread, as it rightly deserves. In doing so, we'll be making info about our favorite subject much more accessible.

I've come up with several different topics that I feel cover most of the important aspects of the DR650SE. For each category, I'm going to start a thread, and ask the collective for what they've found to work best. That's where you come in.

The first three threads are up. CONTROLS/INSTRUMENTATION, SEATS, and
CRASH PROTECTION
. More will follow.

To be clear- I don't want to "steal the thunder" from this thread at all. I check this thread two or three times a day, and really enjoy watching it evolve.
As a new DR650 owner, this would be tremendously helpful. I've read this thread for almost a month now and I am nowhere near 1/4 of the way through!
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:21 PM   #41338
SGrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320King
Hey guys,here is my 09 DR 650 that I just purchased about 2 weeks ago. It only has 510 miles on it and is very clean. It came with a hitch carrier,helmet and the original seat as well. Previous owner says the rack is one he purchased from the dealer.



Is that your Charger in the background? If so how about popping over to the shiny things forum and posting some pictures and background on it.
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:11 AM   #41339
Magnum Noel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320King
Hey guys,here is my 09 DR 650 that I just purchased about 2 weeks ago. It only has 510 miles on it and is very clean. It came with a hitch carrier,helmet and the original seat as well. Previous owner says the rack is one he purchased from the dealer.


Hey nice bike. Looks like PO has raised the forks in the yoke to lower front end. Check rear shock to see if it has been lowered also. If you're a taller person you may want to reverse procedure. cheers
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:45 AM   #41340
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson
Nice bike. Should be clean for only 510miles. Don't mean to burst your bubble but, have you ever heard the expression Secondhand Helmet for a Secondhand Head ? Don't do it !
Sorry, that's just the riding instructor coming out in me.
If it's in good condition and fits well...

Sorry, that's just the Scot coming out in me.
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