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Old 11-21-2010, 03:05 PM   #42076
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67
This was one of the places I'd read it...


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=5 Down at the bottom.. #7.


Also, on the 14t front sprocket, it says on Procycle.us that a 14t will hit the stock sprocket retainer plate. Is this true with all sprockets or just certain types? They make a replacement plate but didn't know if it would be needed.
As Rob said, don't remove the lower roller.

The retainer plate will hit with all 14t sprockets as they are all the same size. You can also mod the stocker by simply grinding off the outer diameter a bit. Or let the chain chew it up but that obviously isn't going to help with longevity.
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:20 PM   #42077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67
This was one of the places I'd read it...


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=5 Down at the bottom.. #7.


Also, on the 14t front sprocket, it says on Procycle.us that a 14t will hit the stock sprocket retainer plate. Is this true with all sprockets or just certain types? They make a replacement plate but didn't know if it would be needed.
You can also opt to use a clip instead of the plate to hold the sprocket in place. My only advice on the retaining plate (which I prefer) is to not over torque the bolts and possibly break them, just a dab of blue locktite.
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:28 PM   #42078
Trbig67
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OK, will do. I'll take the top one off and put it on the bottom for now until I can get a decent one in. (Chain roller guides)

I've got the tires figured out I'm going to use. These Trailwings went from some decent knobby in back to slick in 200 miles of pavement. GOing to try a cheap Kenda K270 up front (Was going to try a Cheng Shin up there, but they are on backorder) and the Dunlop 606 on back.

So.. the dreaded question... This will probably make some of you scream, but it's not the "Which oil or tire is best" question. I've got old Yamaha XS/XJ1100 air cooled bikes that have wet clutches. I use Castrol 20/50 in those. Any problems using it in these? The PO used Valvoline 10/40 and Valvoline is the one brand I don't like. Long story and personal reasons, but I'd rather use Walmart recycled oil than that.


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Old 11-21-2010, 03:34 PM   #42079
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And... where's the cheapest place for front sprockets? I'll do a little grinding on the stock plate.



And... is there any noticeable difference using the K&N filter over the stock foam? It doesn't look like it had that spot built into it for the little element support to hold? Does it lean out the mix?

Trbig67 screwed with this post 11-21-2010 at 03:40 PM
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:44 PM   #42080
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Any name brand is OK as long as it has the JASO MA rating.
Don't put automotive oil in it.
Automotive 'friction modifiers' are bad news for motorcycle engines.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67
OK, will do. I'll take the top one off and put it on the bottom for now until I can get a decent one in. (Chain roller guides)

I've got the tires figured out I'm going to use. These Trailwings went from some decent knobby in back to slick in 200 miles of pavement. GOing to try a cheap Kenda K270 up front (Was going to try a Cheng Shin up there, but they are on backorder) and the Dunlop 606 on back.

So.. the dreaded question... This will probably make some of you scream, but it's not the "Which oil or tire is best" question. I've got old Yamaha XS/XJ1100 air cooled bikes that have wet clutches. I use Castrol 20/50 in those. Any problems using it in these? The PO used Valvoline 10/40 and Valvoline is the one brand I don't like. Long story and personal reasons, but I'd rather use Walmart recycled oil than that.


Tod
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:07 PM   #42081
Trbig67
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There's been MANY MANY postings and discussions on motorcycle threads about oil. MOST (Including me) feel high priced "Motorcycle Oil" is a ripoff. And yes, you don't want a bike that runs wet clutches to use an oil with friction modifiers in it. Basically, as long as the little AP donut on the back doesn't say "Energy Conserving" then it's OK. I was just asking about the WEIGHT of the oil at 20/50 if that was a problem with these bikes. Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:37 PM   #42082
NJ-Brett
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I am sure my DR will do at least 100 mph, since it does better than that indicated on the speedo on dirt roads with the K270 tires on it.
Pumper carb, jetted.

With the Pirelli s/t tires (radials) it was even faster, much less rolling resistance.
Passing those radar signs, my speedo was 5 mph fast.
The bike would do over 100 mph indicated before the airbox/carb mods...
Stock gearing...
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:39 PM   #42083
mx_rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67
There's been MANY MANY postings and discussions on motorcycle threads about oil. MOST (Including me) feel high priced "Motorcycle Oil" is a ripoff. And yes, you don't want a bike that runs wet clutches to use an oil with friction modifiers in it. Basically, as long as the little AP donut on the back doesn't say "Energy Conserving" then it's OK. I was just asking about the WEIGHT of the oil at 20/50 if that was a problem with these bikes. Thanks.
A couple posts ago you asked "the dreaded question" but it sounds as if you have all the knowledge necessary in the oil department. Are you trollin?
You don't have to spend high prices to get JASO MA and MB rated oil. Shell Rotella is one way....
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:41 PM   #42084
NJ-Brett
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I never liked K+N filters.
They don't keep the dirt out.
The twin air filters procycle sells are great!
I love their chain roller also, made the chain a lot quieter.
Everything they sell is great!




Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67
And... where's the cheapest place for front sprockets? I'll do a little grinding on the stock plate.



And... is there any noticeable difference using the K&N filter over the stock foam? It doesn't look like it had that spot built into it for the little element support to hold? Does it lean out the mix?
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:57 PM   #42085
Trbig67
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Quote:
Are you trollin?

LOL.. I have read a bit here, but I'm a mod on another motorcycle site for those old Yamahas. And apparently I lied to you about Valvoline being the only oil I didn't like. I had two motors crater from oiling issues using that Rotella. The motors were air cooed inline 4's. One spun a crank bearing and another just wiped out new bearings. It may not have been the oil's fault, but it was coincidence enough for me with all the other brands out there to not try for #3.

I have an order ready from Rockymountainatv with a couple tires, so I was going to try the All Balls roller from them since I've gotten into the free shipping price range.
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:16 PM   #42086
NordieBoy
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Hmmm...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67
This was one of the places I'd read it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
Things he did I would not have done, or done differently:
1. Tank foam. I've never noticed sloshing in my IMS tank. Unnecessary - Would love some tank foam.

5. Wrong jetting. He complained of poor fuel economy but did the Jesse air box and jetting mod wrong, going with a 170 main jet, should have had a 155 main. - 160 for aftermarket pipe and airbox opened.

6. Grinding out header weld. Suzuki did this for a reason, it is NOT a mistake. Grind it out and you lose MPG and TORQUE. Ask them. - If it wasn't a mistake it'd be consistent not only in the actual weld but also between bikes. Some have a 5mm lip, some have a 10mm lip, or more.

7. All Balls Chain Rollers. The real solution here is to remove BOTH upper and lower chain rollers completely. Not needed. Period. They just make noise. - Leave the bottom one in.

8. 18T countershaft sprocket. Just dumb. - Yep. Who wants to be able to do the speed limit in 1st gear.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:18 PM   #42087
maynard911
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[quote}



And... is there any noticeable difference using the K&N filter over the stock foam? It doesn't look like it had that spot built into it for the little element support to hold? Does it lean out the mix?[/quote]

Yep ,the difference is the amount of dirt entering your engine. If you really must use a K&N get the foam cover that ProCycle sells. Stock is better, Twin Air probably better yet. If you stick to the pavement a K&N is probably ok, but an air filters ability to trap dust is inversely proportional to it's flow rate, one of those no free lunch things.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:36 PM   #42088
dirtmucker
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MXoN Ride: SoCal to Lakewood, CO

I know that it is not a big feat for DR's to circle the globe but here is yet another store of a fun road trip that a buddy and I took in September:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...4#post14541994
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:39 PM   #42089
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobudo28
Care to weigh in on the header pipe debate? Is there any merit to an oversized front pipe or "power bomb" front pipe?
Sure, I'll weigh in.
MX-Rob's dyno chart has been posted here and on ThumperTalk. The bike belongs to NY T100 and has the 725 big bore and Web 245 cam. You can't make an across the board judgment on the header pipe question based on one dyno test especially on a bike that has a cam nobody else is running.

Here's today's back to back tests with the PowerBomb header (black line) and stock headpipe (blue line). Horsepower first, then torque.

.


The top end gains and higher peak torque of the PowerBomb easily outweigh the small advantage the stock header has at 4000 rpm. OK, this bike isn't exactly representative of the the typical DR650 either. 780cc big bore, big valve head, 190 cam, TM40, FMF PowerCore 4. Even if the PowerBomb did nothing it looks so much more right on the bike compared to the skinny little stock pipe that IMHO it's worth the price.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:50 PM   #42090
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
OK, this bike isn't exactly representative of the the typical DR650 either. 780cc big bore, big valve head, 190 cam, TM40, FMF PowerCore 4.
But the ummm... blinkers are stock?

I wouldn't mind my stock header putting out 48-49hp either.

So is it run in yet?

How's it ride?

Where's the vids?

Now!
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