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Old 02-19-2011, 09:14 AM   #45061
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willy G View Post
I guess the guy doesn't understand that adding $2000 worth of farkles doesn't actually make your bike worth $2000 more when you resell it.
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:15 AM   #45062
RamMan4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67 View Post
Turn signal problem.... I rode to work one day and they both worked fine. All highway, so no rough stuff to wiggle things loose. Next day, the right side doesn't work, but left side is still fine. Does this indicate the switch on the left control needs to be taken apart and maybe cleaned up, or is there something else I should look at? I'm pretty mechanical, but electrical stuff isn't my forte'.
+1 for the bulb unless both front and rear on the right side are out. Even in that case, I would check bulbs first.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:27 PM   #45063
Paloma Paul
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bulbs

for the bulb unless both front and rear on the right side are out. Even in that case, I would check bulbs first.

Sounds like bulbs to me...........my left rear is often not working so I have an extra wrapped in a piece of sock..I can't say it goes out. I replace it almost every year or two. never had any problems with the other ones/
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:31 PM   #45064
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Handlebars

After a long ride (100+ miles) my back muscles around my shoulders always are sore and burning....I read on here some time ago about a certain handle bar that eliminates this problem (ATV bar) somebody help me out and post what it is.........seems like it was some bar for an ATV is all I remember.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:48 PM   #45065
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67 View Post
Turn signal problem.... I rode to work one day and they both worked fine. All highway, so no rough stuff to wiggle things loose. Next day, the right side doesn't work, but left side is still fine. Does this indicate the switch on the left control needs to be taken apart and maybe cleaned up, or is there something else I should look at? I'm pretty mechanical, but electrical stuff isn't my forte'.
I doubt it's the switch or a bulb. More than likely a loose connection at one of the signals. Happens all the time to me as mine have been re-wired with different signals several times and no longer use the stock Suzuki plugs. Go through and find turn signal wires ... very easy. Then start wiggling.
Fast flash means one or both are out.
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:23 PM   #45066
Trbig67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I doubt it's the switch or a bulb. More than likely a loose connection at one of the signals. Happens all the time to me as mine have been re-wired with different signals several times and no longer use the stock Suzuki plugs. Go through and find turn signal wires ... very easy. Then start wiggling.
Fast flash means one or both are out.
Seriously... That is the first answer that actually has any thought put into it. Both bulbs on one side magically burned out at once guys? Really? Checking the air in the tires actually does make about the same amount of sense.
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:59 PM   #45067
ram1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67 View Post
Seriously... That is the first answer that actually has any thought put into it. Both bulbs on one side magically burned out at once guys? Really? Checking the air in the tires actually does make about the same amount of sense.
He stipulated that it was not loose wires...
but I missed that it was both bulbs out on one side...
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:24 PM   #45068
newride
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NSU saga continues

wow, not sure what my karma is with my bike lately, but...
So I snipped the wires and pulled the NSU out. Putting clutch pressure plate bolts back on in reverse order all labelled. Putting bolt # 2 back in and it is not tightening down all the way............snap!!!! noo!!!! bolt breaks off inside where it goes. By some miracle, I got it out with some small allen wrenches. So I am buying all new good bolts. I am not sure why this happened. I was not cranking on the bolt and I was working in reverse order...4, 3, 2, 1,. Are you supposed to take one bolt, put it in all the way tight, then go to the next,etc..or is there some secret technique I am missing? Don't want to do this again. The bolt hole itself is a little bit sticky in some places when finger tightening it. Maybe the threads are slightly messed up.....
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:28 PM   #45069
oremike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paloma Paul View Post
After a long ride (100+ miles) my back muscles around my shoulders always are sore and burning....I read on here some time ago about a certain handle bar that eliminates this problem (ATV bar) somebody help me out and post what it is.........seems like it was some bar for an ATV is all I remember.
The first thing I'd do is adjust the stock bars and see if you can find the sweet spot that makes the pain go away, if your bars are too far forward it will feel like your elbows are sticking out, too far back and you elbows will be feeling like they are too close to you body and you wrists will not be straight to the grips. I'd bet your bars are rolled too far down or close to you. That being said, I'm 6'3" so like a taller bar for riding when standing so I go with the Pro Taper 7/8 ATV high bend bars. Thy still need to be adjusted for personal fit as decribed before.
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:01 PM   #45070
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
wow, not sure what my karma is with my bike lately, but...
So I snipped the wires and pulled the NSU out. Putting clutch pressure plate bolts back on in reverse order all labelled. Putting bolt # 2 back in and it is not tightening down all the way............snap!!!! noo!!!! bolt breaks off inside where it goes. By some miracle, I got it out with some small allen wrenches. So I am buying all new good bolts. I am not sure why this happened. I was not cranking on the bolt and I was working in reverse order...4, 3, 2, 1,. Are you supposed to take one bolt, put it in all the way tight, then go to the next,etc..or is there some secret technique I am missing? Don't want to do this again. The bolt hole itself is a little bit sticky in some places when finger tightening it. Maybe the threads are slightly messed up.....
Bummer...

With a clutch pressure plate you should progressively tighten the bolts up a couple of turns each at a time else the plate is distorted and all the spring pressure is on one bolt.

I also recommend a suitable torque wrench like:
http://www.justtools.com.au/prod1776.htm
Accurate for the torque required.

Steve
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:12 PM   #45071
Paloma Paul
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Thumb bars

so I go with the Pro Taper 7/8 ATV high bend bars.

This is what I was looking for........I knew it was something for ATV
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:31 PM   #45072
Paloma Paul
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Thumb Atv

Thats what I was looking for ATV high bend
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:51 PM   #45073
goodcat8
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Puke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
:
Hard to tell who does what ... but reading this thread you can get a pretty good idea .... Anyone remember that "hot shot" from L.A. , handle was "Goodcat8" ? He crashed his DR ... and no one even wanted to buy the leftover carcass.
It's amazing what a complete and total douchbag you are. Seriously. It's gotten to a point where I just shake my head and sigh everytime you post anything.... in any thread.
For the record, so you can actually know what your talking shit about for once, I sold my DR w/in a week of listing it in the fleamarket to a fellow "inmate". Who has enjoyed the bike very much since he picked it up.
So for the love of god, just for a day or two, maybe, just maybe... STFU.
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:28 PM   #45074
M Singer
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Pro cycle jet kit

Took my first lengthy ride today since installing the pro cycle jet kit. I am running a stock exhaust system and air filter. The air box has been modified as per pro cycle's instructions. I'm running the 145 main jet with the needle clip on the 4th grove from the top and the fuel screw 2 turns out. Basically the base line settings for a stock exhaust.

The power gains are noticeable thought the rpm range but particularly on the top end! The gains are more then I expected. Throttle response from a close throttle could be better and doesn't seem to be improved from the stock setup. I did drill the extra hoe in the slide. I guess that's why pumper carbs are a popular mod.

I attempted to adjust the fuel screw while for the best idle but found that to be fully screwed in!. There was an intolerable stumble when opening the throttle from a close position with the screw turned in. I gradually turned the screw out to achieve the best throttle response which put me back a two turns out. The throttle response acceptable with the screw 2 turns out.

The instructions in the kit are ambiguous at best as to where to the base line needle clip position. The install section says to start at the 4th grove. The tuning section says that the 3rd grove is a good place to start and will work well for most bikes. WTF over?

I topped off my tank mid ride so I don't have an accurate flue economy report yet but it appears to be close to the 40 mpg that I was averaging b/4 the kit install. I may try the 3rd clip position to see if i can improve the flue economy.

Basically I'd say that the bike starts and runs about the same as stock, just fine, but with significantly better power. That's what I wanted and I wasn't expecting pumper carb preference from a jet kit. I would certainly recommend this kit to anyone who would like to pick up some inexpensive HP. Install was very easy.
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:45 PM   #45075
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
Took my first lengthy ride today since installing the pro cycle jet kit. I am running a stock exhaust system and air filter. The air box has been modified as per pro cycle's instructions. I'm running the 145 main jet with the needle clip on the 4th grove from the top and the fuel screw 2 turns out. Basically the base line settings for a stock exhaust.

The power gains are noticeable thought the rpm range but particularly on the top end! The gains are more then I expected. Throttle response from a close throttle could be better and doesn't seem to be improved from the stock setup. I did drill the extra hoe in the slide. I guess that's why pumper carbs are a popular mod.

I attempted to adjust the fuel screw while for the best idle but found that to be fully screwed in!. There was an intolerable stumble when opening the throttle from a close position with the screw turned in. I gradually turned the screw out to achieve the best throttle response which put me back a two turns out. The throttle response acceptable with the screw 2 turns out.

The instructions in the kit are ambiguous at best as to where to the base line needle clip position. The install section says to start at the 4th grove. The tuning section says that the 3rd grove is a good place to start and will work well for most bikes. WTF over?

I topped off my tank mid ride so I don't have an accurate flue economy report yet but it appears to be close to the 40 mpg that I was averaging b/4 the kit install. I may try the 3rd clip position to see if i can improve the flue economy.

Basically I'd say that the bike starts and runs about the same as stock, just fine, but with significantly better power. That's what I wanted and I wasn't expecting pumper carb preference from a jet kit. I would certainly recommend this kit to anyone who would like to pick up some inexpensive HP. Install was very easy.

40mpg. Has it always been that low? In stock trim it should get better than fifty mpg, close to sixty if ridden nicely. Maybe there is something else going on with your bike if it has always gotten that kind of mileage. Do you clean your air filter regularly?
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