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Old 02-19-2011, 07:40 PM   #45076
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
Took my first lengthy ride today since installing the pro cycle jet kit. I am running a stock exhaust system and air filter. The air box has been modified as per pro cycle's instructions. I'm running the 145 main jet with the needle clip on the 4th grove from the top and the fuel screw 2 turns out. Basically the base line settings for a stock exhaust.

I topped off my tank mid ride so I don't have an accurate flue economy report yet but it appears to be close to the 40 mpg that I was averaging b/4 the kit install. I may try the 3rd clip position to see if i can improve the flue economy.
I don't know what jets ProCycle uses, but if it's a Mikuni 145 (aprox. the same as a Dynojet 155) you may want to go down on the main a size or two, depending on your altitude.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:05 PM   #45077
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I'm running the same procycle set up as the OP except with the clip in the 3rd postion and the air screw about 1 turn out. My bike runs very strong, starts easy, comes right off choke after idling for just minute or so. I only have 27 miles on this set up so haven't done a mileage test yet. Hopefully I'll be able to do that tomorrow.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:28 PM   #45078
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My stock piped DR with the Dynojet kit installed per directions averaged around 42 riding to work and riding easy. I'm a big guy though, 250 pounds these days. I was using the DJ 155.

With the 145 Mikuni main I get 51 mpg on average with a TM40 and a 14T CS. I can pull that down to 47 mpg while in the twisties. I played with the needle on the stock carb and didn't like running any leaner, I'm near sea level though. With the the 145 I still had the rusty colored tail pipe just like the OEM jetting.

I don't think the jet kit was worth it looking back, I should have shimed the needle, added an extended pilot screw and run a 145 Mikuni main with a cut air box and stock exhaust. Good and cheap! But, being the farkle nut I am, I do like my TM40 carb the best.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:40 PM   #45079
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Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post

I'm near sea level though.

I don't think the jet kit was worth it looking back, I should have shimed the needle, added an extended pilot screw and run a 145 Mikuni main with a cut air box and stock exhaust. Good and cheap! But, being the farkle nut I am, I do like my TM40 carb the best.
THANK YOU for giving an aproximate altitude. Offering up carb settings is kind of worthless to the reader without that info.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:50 PM   #45080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
I don't know what jets ProCycle uses, but if it's a Mikuni 145 (aprox. the same as a Dynojet 155) you may want to go down on the main a size or two, depending on your altitude.
My local elevation runs from 1-6 thousand feet. I am running a Miuni 145 main which is the smallest one in the kit.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:57 PM   #45081
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Originally Posted by NJ-Brett View Post
Don't sound right at all.
Drilling the slide should result in faster throttle opening.
I drilled a 2nd smaller hole (about half the size) and noticed a big jump in response.
If the throttle is opened part way and I roll on more, the response is very good. If I completely close the throttle while braking to adjust my speed for an upcoming corner, there is a bit of a stumple when I roll on.

Couldn't opening the side too quickly cause a momentary lean condition that could cause a stumble?
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:58 PM   #45082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
My local elevation runs from 1-6 thousand feet. I am running a Miuni 145 main which is the smallest one in the kit.
I would consult with Procycle for specifics.
My 2cents (guess) would be at 3000' to try a Mikuni 142.5 or the stock 140 if changing the needle setting doesn't give better mileage.
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:29 PM   #45083
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I never got instant throttle with the BST carb, its a vac unit so it does need a second or two to get going.

Have you read the BST Bible thread on here? http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

3,000 feet ain't much, my bike is fine all the way to 11K plus with the 145. I have not tried higher elevations than 11K. Its the needle position that needs changing probably. Call Procycle back up for pointers...
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:44 PM   #45084
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If you drill the slide on the stock carb, it opens faster, but the carb was not designed for that, so I think a lot of people end up with things set richer to compensate. That ruins the mpg.
It can also stumble if things are set too rich.
Easy to experiment with needle positions...

I have heard the stock needle sux, and the dynojet is better.
Before I got the tm40, I just pulled the snorkel, drilled the slide a little and shimmed the needle up some.
Better then stock for zero cost.



Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
If the throttle is opened part way and I roll on more, the response is very good. If I completely close the throttle while braking to adjust my speed for an upcoming corner, there is a bit of a stumple when I roll on.

Couldn't opening the side too quickly cause a momentary lean condition that could cause a stumble?
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:00 PM   #45085
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Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
It's amazing what a complete and total douchbag you are. Seriously. It's gotten to a point where I just shake my head and sigh everytime you post anything.... in any thread.
For the record, so you can actually know what your talking shit about for once, I sold my DR w/in a week of listing it in the fleamarket to a fellow "inmate". Who has enjoyed the bike very much since he picked it up.
So for the love of god, just for a day or two, maybe, just maybe... STFU.

you two should just get a room or something
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:28 PM   #45086
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Nsfu

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Sorry to read of your continuing problems. The DR is a perfect machine to begin learning mechanical skills, don't be discouraged by your first experiences, there will be much satisfaction later on.

I have only serviced one clutch so far, and that was a decade ago, however: I started all the bolts, then in a cross-wise pattern began snugging them down a little at a time, intending to make three circuits, with the last circuit using a torque wrench.

NOTE that the torque specified for these bolts is just **7.0 lbft**. You will NOT be able to use a lbft torque wrench for this low value, you MUST use a LBIN torque wrench set to 84 lbin.

7.0 lbft is just a little more than "snug." and you want to have all the bolts at the *same* "snugness" for the clutch to work properly.

Caveat: I'm not a mechanic, maybe someone who is will correct me.

Also: the small fasteners at the bottom of your fork take the same or nearly the same torque; there have been posts here of riders snapping those bolts.

Lastly, you may want to post your location, there may be a local, helpful DR rider who can assist you in getting to know your DR.

Lex
Thanks Lex and Bergdonk for your suggestions. the other small issue seems to be the clutch bolts. I have enclosed a pic. Have been looking everywhere for a similar bolt/washer combo, but not even close even at Home Depot. Had to order one from suzuki. The washers are attached to the bolts, so it is hard to find that same combo. it seems other washers may slip.
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:52 PM   #45087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett View Post
If you drill the slide on the stock carb, it opens faster, but the carb was not designed for that, so I think a lot of people end up with things set richer to compensate. That ruins the mpg.
The same carb is used in the KTM 625/640 series.
It has 2 holes and both larger than on the DR.
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:19 AM   #45088
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My buddy is replacing the BST on KTM's with FCRs. When the 'fast guys' land a jump, the motor quits because gravity slams the vacuum slide shut. Since my 400 pound DR (fuel and tailbag) will bend in the middle (yes, an exaggeration), I don't do jumps.
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:58 AM   #45089
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Sorry to read of your continuing problems. The DR is a perfect machine to begin learning mechanical skills, don't be discouraged by your first experiences, there will be much satisfaction later on.

I have only serviced one clutch so far, and that was a decade ago, however: I started all the bolts, then in a cross-wise pattern began snugging them down a little at a time, intending to make three circuits, with the last circuit using a torque wrench.

NOTE that the torque specified for these bolts is just **7.0 lbft**. You will NOT be able to use a lbft torque wrench for this low value, you MUST use a LBIN torque wrench set to 84 lbin.

7.0 lbft is just a little more than "snug." and you want to have all the bolts at the *same* "snugness" for the clutch to work properly.

Caveat: I'm not a mechanic, maybe someone who is will correct me.

Also: the small fasteners at the bottom of your fork take the same or nearly the same torque; there have been posts here of riders snapping those bolts.

Lastly, you may want to post your location, there may be a local, helpful DR rider who can assist you in getting to know your DR.

Lex
Or, if you have a Torque wrentch that has Newton Metres, The value for Clutch springs is 10nm.
When I did mine recently, I just did them up finger tight, then used torque wrench set at 10nm, turning them a couple of times each (as Bergdonk said) and doing them in a criss-cross fashion until torque setting reached. No dramas.
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kezzajohnson screwed with this post 02-20-2011 at 02:06 AM
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:49 AM   #45090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
If the throttle is opened part way and I roll on more, the response is very good. If I completely close the throttle while braking to adjust my speed for an upcoming corner, there is a bit of a stumple when I roll on.

Couldn't opening the side too quickly cause a momentary lean condition that could cause a stumble?
This is the same problem I had with my BST. That, and maddening surge at cruise (light throttle, light load). The TM40 fixed it entirely.

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