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Old 02-19-2011, 05:53 PM   #45076
M Singer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
40mpg. Has it always been that low? In stock trim it should get better than fifty mpg, close to sixty if ridden nicely. Maybe there is something else going on with your bike if it has always gotten that kind of mileage. Do you clean your air filter regularly?
Yes it has always been that low. I did ck the float height when I put the jet kit in and it was about .060" too hi. I re adjusted it to factory spec. That may have had an ill effect on the pre kit install mileage. I was running the piss out of her today going though the Dragon so we are not talking about gentle miles. Still though my 150 rear wheel hp FZ1 could do better then that so I think some further tuning is in order.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:26 PM   #45077
LexTalionis
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newride

Sorry to read of your continuing problems. The DR is a perfect machine to begin learning mechanical skills, don't be discouraged by your first experiences, there will be much satisfaction later on.

I have only serviced one clutch so far, and that was a decade ago, however: I started all the bolts, then in a cross-wise pattern began snugging them down a little at a time, intending to make three circuits, with the last circuit using a torque wrench.

NOTE that the torque specified for these bolts is just **7.0 lbft**. You will NOT be able to use a lbft torque wrench for this low value, you MUST use a LBIN torque wrench set to 84 lbin.

7.0 lbft is just a little more than "snug." and you want to have all the bolts at the *same* "snugness" for the clutch to work properly.

Caveat: I'm not a mechanic, maybe someone who is will correct me.

Also: the small fasteners at the bottom of your fork take the same or nearly the same torque; there have been posts here of riders snapping those bolts.

Lastly, you may want to post your location, there may be a local, helpful DR rider who can assist you in getting to know your DR.

Lex

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wow, not sure what my karma is with my bike lately, but...
So I snipped the wires and pulled the NSU out. Putting clutch pressure plate bolts back on in reverse order all labelled. Putting bolt # 2 back in and it is not tightening down all the way............snap!!!! noo!!!! bolt breaks off inside where it goes. By some miracle, I got it out with some small allen wrenches. So I am buying all new good bolts. I am not sure why this happened. I was not cranking on the bolt and I was working in reverse order...4, 3, 2, 1,. Are you supposed to take one bolt, put it in all the way tight, then go to the next,etc..or is there some secret technique I am missing? Don't want to do this again. The bolt hole itself is a little bit sticky in some places when finger tightening it. Maybe the threads are slightly messed up.....
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:31 PM   #45078
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Compression ratio, measured

Motorcycle Consumer News did a multi-part article on upgrades to the DR650 last year. This year, they're doing another multi-part article on engine blueprinting using the same DR650.

In the March issue they measured the displacement and calculated the combustion ratio.

Suzuki states the combustion ratio is 9.5:1.

MCN measured the combustion ratio on their bike as 8.95:1.

The usual caveats pertain; this is only one example.

Lex
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:36 PM   #45079
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
Yes it has always been that low. I did ck the float height when I put the jet kit in and it was about .060" too hi. I re adjusted it to factory spec. That may have had an ill effect on the pre kit install mileage. I was running the piss out of her today going though the Dragon so we are not talking about gentle miles. Still though my 150 rear wheel hp FZ1 could do better then that so I think some further tuning is in order.

I would maybe call Procycle and at least ask if its normal. I know that mileage will drop with the jet kit but that seems kinda low even for "flogged" mileage. Maybe others with similar mods will weigh in.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:45 PM   #45080
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I'd love to get my mileage higher on my dr as well. the speedo reads about 2200 miles on it but I think the guy before me took off the speedo for awhile.
I have the x0f40 muffler, and a jet kit. its tuned to run the best, and only get 38-42. If I try to lean it out it runs like crap. doesn't matter how I ride it.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:48 PM   #45081
M Singer
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Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I would maybe call Procycle and at least ask if its normal. I know that mileage will drop with the jet kit but that seems kinda low even for "flogged" mileage. Maybe others with similar mods will weigh in.
If he doesn't chime in here first, I will give him a call. I suspect he will suggest dropping the needle down one clip.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:03 PM   #45082
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Don't sound right at all.
Drilling the slide should result in faster throttle opening.
I drilled a 2nd smaller hole (about half the size) and noticed a big jump in response.

The needle position will have a lot to do with the mpg.
The main jet with full throttle and high rpm running.
I would adjust each one at a time and check the results.
Drop the needle a notch and see what happens.
Then drop the main jet one step at a time untill power drops off, then go back up one step.

I got 50 mpg in hard riding before the pumper carb, and got 50 or better with the pumper carb, it all depends on the needle (unless you run at full throttle all the time!).

When I sold my bike, the needle was in the leaner position, and I noticed in the cold weather quick throttle openings with no load would bog the motor out some, but I think the mpg was well over 50.

The pumper carb DOES improve the response a LOT, but it also improves low rpm at wider throttle openings a lot.
Grab a fist full of throttle at 2000 rpm and the wheel just comes up, les and it chugs along smoothly.
I always thought a big thumpers strong point was the ability to run well at low rpm's, but with the stock carb, the DR does not like to.
It does with the pumper because the vacuum is not modulating the slide.




Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
Took my first lengthy ride today since installing the pro cycle jet kit. I am running a stock exhaust system and air filter. The air box has been modified as per pro cycle's instructions. I'm running the 145 main jet with the needle clip on the 4th grove from the top and the fuel screw 2 turns out. Basically the base line settings for a stock exhaust.

The power gains are noticeable thought the rpm range but particularly on the top end! The gains are more then I expected. Throttle response from a close throttle could be better and doesn't seem to be improved from the stock setup. I did drill the extra hoe in the slide. I guess that's why pumper carbs are a popular mod.

I attempted to adjust the fuel screw while for the best idle but found that to be fully screwed in!. There was an intolerable stumble when opening the throttle from a close position with the screw turned in. I gradually turned the screw out to achieve the best throttle response which put me back a two turns out. The throttle response acceptable with the screw 2 turns out.

The instructions in the kit are ambiguous at best as to where to the base line needle clip position. The install section says to start at the 4th grove. The tuning section says that the 3rd grove is a good place to start and will work well for most bikes. WTF over?

I topped off my tank mid ride so I don't have an accurate flue economy report yet but it appears to be close to the 40 mpg that I was averaging b/4 the kit install. I may try the 3rd clip position to see if i can improve the flue economy.

Basically I'd say that the bike starts and runs about the same as stock, just fine, but with significantly better power. That's what I wanted and I wasn't expecting pumper carb preference from a jet kit. I would certainly recommend this kit to anyone who would like to pick up some inexpensive HP. Install was very easy.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:40 PM   #45083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
Took my first lengthy ride today since installing the pro cycle jet kit. I am running a stock exhaust system and air filter. The air box has been modified as per pro cycle's instructions. I'm running the 145 main jet with the needle clip on the 4th grove from the top and the fuel screw 2 turns out. Basically the base line settings for a stock exhaust.

I topped off my tank mid ride so I don't have an accurate flue economy report yet but it appears to be close to the 40 mpg that I was averaging b/4 the kit install. I may try the 3rd clip position to see if i can improve the flue economy.
I don't know what jets ProCycle uses, but if it's a Mikuni 145 (aprox. the same as a Dynojet 155) you may want to go down on the main a size or two, depending on your altitude.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:05 PM   #45084
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I'm running the same procycle set up as the OP except with the clip in the 3rd postion and the air screw about 1 turn out. My bike runs very strong, starts easy, comes right off choke after idling for just minute or so. I only have 27 miles on this set up so haven't done a mileage test yet. Hopefully I'll be able to do that tomorrow.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:28 PM   #45085
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My stock piped DR with the Dynojet kit installed per directions averaged around 42 riding to work and riding easy. I'm a big guy though, 250 pounds these days. I was using the DJ 155.

With the 145 Mikuni main I get 51 mpg on average with a TM40 and a 14T CS. I can pull that down to 47 mpg while in the twisties. I played with the needle on the stock carb and didn't like running any leaner, I'm near sea level though. With the the 145 I still had the rusty colored tail pipe just like the OEM jetting.

I don't think the jet kit was worth it looking back, I should have shimed the needle, added an extended pilot screw and run a 145 Mikuni main with a cut air box and stock exhaust. Good and cheap! But, being the farkle nut I am, I do like my TM40 carb the best.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:40 PM   #45086
Rumlover
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Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post

I'm near sea level though.

I don't think the jet kit was worth it looking back, I should have shimed the needle, added an extended pilot screw and run a 145 Mikuni main with a cut air box and stock exhaust. Good and cheap! But, being the farkle nut I am, I do like my TM40 carb the best.
THANK YOU for giving an aproximate altitude. Offering up carb settings is kind of worthless to the reader without that info.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:50 PM   #45087
M Singer
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Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
I don't know what jets ProCycle uses, but if it's a Mikuni 145 (aprox. the same as a Dynojet 155) you may want to go down on the main a size or two, depending on your altitude.
My local elevation runs from 1-6 thousand feet. I am running a Miuni 145 main which is the smallest one in the kit.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:57 PM   #45088
M Singer
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Don't sound right at all.
Drilling the slide should result in faster throttle opening.
I drilled a 2nd smaller hole (about half the size) and noticed a big jump in response.
If the throttle is opened part way and I roll on more, the response is very good. If I completely close the throttle while braking to adjust my speed for an upcoming corner, there is a bit of a stumple when I roll on.

Couldn't opening the side too quickly cause a momentary lean condition that could cause a stumble?
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:58 PM   #45089
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Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
My local elevation runs from 1-6 thousand feet. I am running a Miuni 145 main which is the smallest one in the kit.
I would consult with Procycle for specifics.
My 2cents (guess) would be at 3000' to try a Mikuni 142.5 or the stock 140 if changing the needle setting doesn't give better mileage.
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:29 PM   #45090
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I never got instant throttle with the BST carb, its a vac unit so it does need a second or two to get going.

Have you read the BST Bible thread on here? http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

3,000 feet ain't much, my bike is fine all the way to 11K plus with the 145. I have not tried higher elevations than 11K. Its the needle position that needs changing probably. Call Procycle back up for pointers...
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