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Old 03-12-2011, 05:59 AM   #45871
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 526
Yes I have changed a clip as you questioned without a special tool. Was not done on side of road but in my shop with a small pair of long nosed plires. Did this just to make sure it could be done. Those plires have been in my tool kits for fourty years. All of the special instructions you give about rivet links shows the problems with them. I have never had failure with either type of master link in over 250,000 road miles and approx 70,000 dirt miles. I use clip links for ease of maintanence. On the road and in the shop. Just my $.02
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Why would you ever remove the swing arm to change a chain?
Try this next time.

Using the above cheapo chain cutting tool I can have the old chain cut and off in less than 3 minutes. It's so easy. Pushes link pin right out.

As mentioned in an earlier post, the rubbing of a Clip Type link can be an issue. It can rub a bit in the countershaft area and chain guide. You can see wear on your pin ends on your chain ... including the master link clip link.
A Rivet link is less likely to wear through and let go, IMHO.

For short distance riding a properly done clip type master link is fine ... but I can't count the number or dodgy installs I've seen ... I've seen clips missing or clips half way off, or clips not seated 100%, or clip faced the WRONG direction, or clips using the Wrong size clip and forced on.

For very long, high speed rides I prefer a Rivet link. I trust them and NEVER had a problem.

Doing a clean and proper rivet link install requires a bit of good technique ... remember: "It's technique, not technical" The peening of the pins needs to be just right .... the tension just right ... if too loose water and crud will get past the X rings and that link will fail prematurely. If too tight and kinking ... then you will have a kink in your new chain, which most likely will go away in a 1000 miles or so. Try to match resistance tension to other chain links (work links back and forth to "feel" resistance)
Make sure your peens are neat and even and done while link plate is squashed flat and even. The RK peening rivet link install tool is very nice.

Has anyone removed/installed a clip type link using a 525 X-Ring chain? Can it be removed and re-installed road side without a special tool?
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Old 03-12-2011, 06:02 AM   #45872
TRAVELGUY
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Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 526
I guess your maintenance and mechanical skills are limited.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Why would you ever need to remove your chain for "maintenance" ? Do you remove it and boil it in Parafin like in the 60's!

Listen guys ... there is a very good reason DID send a RIVET type master link along with chains they sell.

A clip link requires a perfect install. This is NOT EASY to do on a 525 X ring chain. Much easier on a 520 O ring. YMMV.
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TRAVELGUY screwed with this post 03-12-2011 at 06:39 AM
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Old 03-12-2011, 06:48 AM   #45873
ct-ktm
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Location: New England
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I put a new chain on in the fall..never seen a rivet style before..
Used a hammer and something banged the rivet a few times ...
still looks good... have also been putting clip style on for 20 years with needle nose...never had a problem..!..

Can someone help with this one...??
I am finally getting around to changing the petcock...
What do I do with the vent that comes from the carb..??..plug it up..or keep it free..???....
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Old 03-12-2011, 06:57 AM   #45874
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ct-ktm View Post
Can someone help with this one...??
I am finally getting around to changing the petcock...
What do I do with the vent that comes from the carb..??..plug it up..or keep it free..???....

You can either plug the hose or remove the hose and fit a vacuum cap on the carb fitting. You can get the caps from any decent auto parts store. Dont leave it unplugged.
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:01 AM   #45875
slim.410
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Location: Shitwater, Ok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h14xl View Post
Yep, everything he said pretty much word for word is what I experienced myself. Of all the stuff i have bought for my DR this is the one thing I was most dissapointed in by far. And if you're in the boonies and smack a rock and the bolt tangs crack like Cyclepath mentioned it can cause the side protectors to push into the case making it impossible to downshift. So if you're like I was and don't carry SAE wrenches on you're Japenese bike to fit the SAE hardware that came with the plate there you sit. Thank God for big rocks and pry bars(tire irons) or it would have been a long walk.
Glad Ive just looked at every bash plate and motor guards that I can find. Researched all of the pros and cons of each. Will be building my own to my specification. Will post pics when its all done.
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:25 AM   #45876
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
I use clip links for ease of maintanence. On the road and in the shop. Just my $.02
oK, I'll ask you again .... Why would you need to remove the chain to do maintenance on it ... or on the bike?
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:05 AM   #45877
epix1718
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan/Indiana border
Oddometer: 652
Hello everybody, just returned from buying a '96 DR650. The bikes is VERY clean, bought it off it's 2nd owner who is a motorcycle mechanic, who originally bought it off an older gentlemen that used it mainly for commutes.

Has 19K miles, but according to the previous owner it was mostly highway, which I believe, thing looks almost brand new. Has brand new battery, new tires, an extra rear wheel with knobby already mounted, gas tank bag, new brake pads, fresh oil change, extra set of fenders and a couple other misc. Bike itself is pretty much stock but well maintained.

Paid $1500, fair deal? Going to be selling my '95 XR650L soon, that bike is just too tall for me. Hopefully the DR650 have a bunch of aftermarket like I've seen with the XR650.

Any first mods or websites I should visit to learn the basics of this bike?

Pics


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Old 03-12-2011, 11:23 AM   #45878
vanisher
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Oops, i'll guess is a no-go :-(

Thanks for the info!
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:38 AM   #45879
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
Oddometer: 993
Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Hello everybody, just returned from buying a '96 DR650. The bikes is VERY clean, bought it off it's 2nd owner who is a motorcycle mechanic, who originally bought it off an older gentlemen that used it mainly for commutes.

Has 19K miles, but according to the previous owner it was mostly highway, which I believe, thing looks almost brand new. Has brand new battery, new tires, an extra rear wheel with knobby already mounted, gas tank bag, new brake pads, fresh oil change, extra set of fenders and a couple other misc. Bike itself is pretty much stock but well maintained.

Paid $1500, fair deal? Going to be selling my '95 XR650L soon, that bike is just too tall for me. Hopefully the DR650 have a bunch of aftermarket like I've seen with the XR650.

Any first mods or websites I should visit to learn the basics of this bike?

Pics
Congrats on the new scoot! Looks like it was loved by its PO. It should last you a long time. As far as aftermarket goes, you are in luck! Check out procycle dot com and Kientech as well. Procycle has so many delicious goodies it will make you head spin. Welcome to the biggest thread on ADV!
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:41 AM   #45880
Lil' Steve
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Da Bronx, NYC
Oddometer: 3,787
Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Paid $1500, fair deal? Going to be selling my '95 XR650L soon, that bike is just too tall for me. Hopefully the DR650 have a bunch of aftermarket like I've seen with the XR650.

Any first mods or websites I should visit to learn the basics of this bike?

Great deal. Stick around here for a while, and here's some other's.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549433

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199167

http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=705043
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:46 AM   #45881
dirtymartini
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Harveys Lake, PA
Oddometer: 2,513
DR 650 vs DRZ400

Ok, I'ts getting to be decision time. I have looked an an '08 DR650 with 6,900 miles in nice shape and can buy it for $3,000

On the other hand I can buy an '07 DRZ400 with only 664 miles for the same money! Other than a little rust on the chain it is as new.

Now I'll give you a little background info to help me make up my mind. I have been riding for 40 years now (dinosaur!) and have raced East Coast Enduros in the past but have given up hard core dirt riding. Most of my ring with whichever bike I buy will be mostly secondary roads, dirt roads and the occasional single track thrown in. It would also be used for a trip into Mexico if I ever get the opportunity.

Right now I'm leaning towards the 650 but I do like the lesser weight and better suspension of the 400.

Somebody help me make up my mind!

BTW I think I will also post this in the DRZ thread
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:47 AM   #45882
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
oK, I'll ask you again .... Why would you need to remove the chain to do maintenance on it ... or on the bike?
When I put the spiked tires on, I have to use a longer chain to keep the studs from eating the swing arm. I take one of the KTM chains and move it over.
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Old 03-12-2011, 12:41 PM   #45883
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtymartini View Post
Ok, I'ts getting to be decision time. I have looked an an '08 DR650 with 6,900 miles in nice shape and can buy it for $3,000

On the other hand I can buy an '07 DRZ400 with only 664 miles for the same money! Other than a little rust on the chain it is as new.

Now I'll give you a little background info to help me make up my mind. I have been riding for 40 years now (dinosaur!) and have raced East Coast Enduros in the past but have given up hard core dirt riding. Most of my ring with whichever bike I buy will be mostly secondary roads, dirt roads and the occasional single track thrown in. It would also be used for a trip into Mexico if I ever get the opportunity.

Right now I'm leaning towards the 650 but I do like the lesser weight and better suspension of the 400.

Somebody help me make up my mind!

BTW I think I will also post this in the DRZ thread

If you don't plan on any highway use I would go with the DRZ. If you plan on hauling gear on a multi-day ADV ride with pavement involved I would go with the 650. It is nice to have those longer legs for passing and hauling camping gear. I think the DRZ is pretty limited when it comes to pavement and weight carrying.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:31 PM   #45884
thumpididump
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Location: Germany
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+1

Couldn't agree more. One of my riding buddies has a DRZ400S, and when we go riding together, I'm way out in front of him on the paved roads as we head to the trails, but then he loses me on the trails (he's also a better off-road rider than me...). But I've done many 7-10 day long trips comprised of highway miles, gravel roads, and wooded trails. He's never considered anything more than a day trip with his DRZ.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
If you don't plan on any highway use I would go with the DRZ. If you plan on hauling gear on a multi-day ADV ride with pavement involved I would go with the 650. It is nice to have those longer legs for passing and hauling camping gear. I think the DRZ is pretty limited when it comes to pavement and weight carrying.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:40 PM   #45885
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
But I've done many 7-10 day long trips comprised of highway miles, gravel roads, and wooded trails. He's never considered anything more than a day trip with his DRZ.
I've always considered that the DRZ would be a great base for an ADV bike for a shorter/lighter rider.
The ergos are a little too tight for me. Even my TT350 is more open.
The longest I've ridden one was a day ride but it was 1000km.
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