the DR650 thread

[Rusty Rocket]

That looks like it would rip my Kientech chain guide to shreds. The pins stick out pretty far.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

That looks like it would rip my Kientech chain guide to shreds. The pins stick out pretty far.

I've not seen this type of link either. Looks promising. Certain types of Case Saver devices may interfere with those EK pins ... dunno. Not sure about chain guide, might cut some new gruves in your chain guide?

Case Savers have been around for years ... I had one on my 2 stroke race bike in the 80's. The one shown looks like it should wrap around more, maybe protect below the sprocket as well as in front of it. In the "Old Days" you worried more about broken chains. These days with a 525 chain,
pretty rare occurrence. YMMV.

[sagedrifter]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

That looks like it would rip my Kientech chain guide to shreds. The pins stick out pretty far.

Not from the pics I've seen, one guy was concerned and he ground his down though. He had a DL650.... I don't see how it would matter if it did cut some light grooves in a stock one. My stock guide looks plenty wide to me. I'll find out soon when I put a new one on.. My chain has 10K on it and I still have some miles to put on it. I doubt it will go more than 12K with all the salt and wet riding down in FL for a year, but you never know. Its pretty close to being strecthed out and its a bit rusty, I need to measure it again. I want to replace the chain before my next long tour this spring.

[sagedrifter]

Oh, these screw on master links have been around, I've read threads on here dated back to 2006.

[M Singer]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

That's not a bad idea ... but unless you've ridden in rain a lot or done lots of stream crossings ... then the Swing Arm bearings stay surprisingly Good!

When the NSU bolt dropped out of our '96 a few years back we parted it out.
I removed the swing arm (with some difficulty ... man ... those bolts are TIGHT!) and lo and behold the bearings were NICE ... and had grease and were even fairly clean. (SPAM: that swing arm is still for sale if anyone needs one!!) This on a 1996 DR650 with 32,000 miles. I was surprised. So, swing arm maintenance is a good idea (especially for rain and water riders) but I would not panic about doing it on low mileage bikes ridden in mostly dry conditions.

My current '06 is nearly at 40K. The swing arm feels pretty good. I tested it recently with the shock OFF the bike. Movement is still smooth and very little side play. Still ... always good to check it. (Don't round off those big nasty bolts! and tension upon reassembly is important! Use a torque wrench!

That's go to know. I probably won't bother taking mine off when it comes time for a new chain.

[SilverBullet]

Originally Posted by thumpididump

I wondered the same thing.

An angle grinder can remove your old chain in less than a minute, too. Either cut straight through a link, or just grind the rivets off one side of one link and it falls apart.

Or even a good ole hacksaw with a carbide blade will go through a chain in well under 5 minutes for the guys without power tools.

http://www.harborfreight.com/the-inc...f-2-96274.html
_

[BugsInMyTeeth]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

(SPAM: that swing arm is still for sale if anyone needs one!!)

PM sent

[Ctr-Seat]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

170?
Are you sure?

I'd be expecting a 160 and 4th from top with that setup.

In full disclosure, my brother installed the jet kit. I'm just going by what the Moose Racing (Dynojet) directions say to use with a high-flow exhaust (170) and figuring out if I can handle the swap myself without too much fuss. With the stock pipe, it recommends the 160 main and airbox lid removal.

As with most things DR, it's probably just a matter of doing before you figure out how easy it was. I guess the smart thing to do would be to install the slip-on and see how it does with current 160 / needle position set-up.

If anyone has results that differ from a slip-on with the Dynojet as per the directions (when all else fails...) please advise. The "experts" just think it would run too lean with the 160 and the FMF can.

[Ctr-Seat]

Originally Posted by Ctr-Seat

In full disclosure, my brother installed the jet kit. I'm just going by what the Moose Racing (Dynojet) directions say to use with a high-flow exhaust (170) and figuring out if I can handle the swap myself without too much fuss. With the stock pipe, it recommends the 160 main and airbox lid removal.

STAGE TWO INSTRUCTIONS

1. Remove the vacuum slide from the carb. Remove the stock needle
and spacers, noting order of assembly (Fig.A)
OMIT the white spacer.

2. Install the Dynojet needle on groove #4 from the top.
Install the small Dynojet washer above the e-clip. (Fig. A) nylon spacer .
After installing the slide in the carb be sure to check slide movement
manually.

3. Remove the stock main jet and replace with the Dynojet main jet
provided. If you are running the stock exhaust install the DJ155. If you
are running an aftermarket exhaust or slip-on with high flowing baffle use
NOTE: the DJ160. Be sure that the jet you are changing is the main jet.
On 1996-2011 models use DJ160 with the stock exhaust and DJ170 with a high flow aftermarket exhaust.

4. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. B). If you see a screw head at Fig.B
then proceed to the adjusting procedure. With the 5/32 drill bit provided
The mixture screw is directly NOTE: carefully drill through the plug.
underneath this plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you
Use screw provided to secure and remove this plug. break through.
Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then back
out 2.5 turns.

[TRAVELGUY]

Yes I have changed a clip as you questioned without a special tool. Was not done on side of road but in my shop with a small pair of long nosed plires. Did this just to make sure it could be done. Those plires have been in my tool kits for fourty years. All of the special instructions you give about rivet links shows the problems with them. I have never had failure with either type of master link in over 250,000 road miles and approx 70,000 dirt miles. I use clip links for ease of maintanence. On the road and in the shop. Just my $.02

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Why would you ever remove the swing arm to change a chain?
Try this next time.

Using the above cheapo chain cutting tool I can have the old chain cut and off in less than 3 minutes. It's so easy. Pushes link pin right out.

As mentioned in an earlier post, the rubbing of a Clip Type link can be an issue. It can rub a bit in the countershaft area and chain guide. You can see wear on your pin ends on your chain ... including the master link clip link.
A Rivet link is less likely to wear through and let go, IMHO.

For short distance riding a properly done clip type master link is fine ... but I can't count the number or dodgy installs I've seen ... I've seen clips missing or clips half way off, or clips not seated 100%, or clip faced the WRONG direction, or clips using the Wrong size clip and forced on.

For very long, high speed rides I prefer a Rivet link. I trust them and NEVER had a problem.

Doing a clean and proper rivet link install requires a bit of good technique ... remember: "It's technique, not technical" The peening of the pins needs to be just right .... the tension just right ... if too loose water and crud will get past the X rings and that link will fail prematurely. If too tight and kinking ... then you will have a kink in your new chain, which most likely will go away in a 1000 miles or so. Try to match resistance tension to other chain links (work links back and forth to "feel" resistance)
Make sure your peens are neat and even and done while link plate is squashed flat and even. The RK peening rivet link install tool is very nice.

Has anyone removed/installed a clip type link using a 525 X-Ring chain? Can it be removed and re-installed road side without a special tool?

[TRAVELGUY]

I guess your maintenance and mechanical skills are limited.

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Why would you ever need to remove your chain for "maintenance" ? Do you remove it and boil it in Parafin like in the 60's!

Listen guys ... there is a very good reason DID send a RIVET type master link along with chains they sell.

A clip link requires a perfect install. This is NOT EASY to do on a 525 X ring chain. Much easier on a 520 O ring. YMMV.

[ct-ktm]

I put a new chain on in the fall..never seen a rivet style before..
Used a hammer and something banged the rivet a few times ...
still looks good... have also been putting clip style on for 20 years with needle nose...never had a problem..!..

Can someone help with this one...??
I am finally getting around to changing the petcock...
What do I do with the vent that comes from the carb..??..plug it up..or keep it free..???....

[Lil' Steve]

Originally Posted by ct-ktm

Can someone help with this one...??
I am finally getting around to changing the petcock...
What do I do with the vent that comes from the carb..??..plug it up..or keep it free..???....

You can either plug the hose or remove the hose and fit a vacuum cap on the carb fitting. You can get the caps from any decent auto parts store. Dont leave it unplugged.

[slim.410]

Originally Posted by h14xl

Yep, everything he said pretty much word for word is what I experienced myself. Of all the stuff i have bought for my DR this is the one thing I was most dissapointed in by far. And if you're in the boonies and smack a rock and the bolt tangs crack like Cyclepath mentioned it can cause the side protectors to push into the case making it impossible to downshift. So if you're like I was and don't carry SAE wrenches on you're Japenese bike to fit the SAE hardware that came with the plate there you sit. Thank God for big rocks and pry bars(tire irons) or it would have been a long walk.

Glad Ive just looked at every bash plate and motor guards that I can find. Researched all of the pros and cons of each. Will be building my own to my specification. Will post pics when its all done.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

I use clip links for ease of maintanence. On the road and in the shop. Just my $.02

oK, I'll ask you again .... Why would you need to remove the chain to do maintenance on it ... or on the bike?