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Old 03-27-2011, 05:46 PM   #46501
Xplorr
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Location: Montucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Are your forks slid up in the clamps? Frequently people lower the bike by moving the shock mounting bolt to the upper hole and sliding the forks up in the clamps. Obviously easy to reverse.
Thanks jessepitt, The forks are [flush] with the top clamp, so they didn't do that method. Me thinks there is little to reverse? Cheers, matt
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:48 PM   #46502
Arc 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorr View Post
Hey all,

I want to 'unlower' my new(ish) to me 08dr. It had the warning sticker on the swing arm, so I assume it was done by a shop. I've got the service manual Pdf, and looked over the lowering section to see what I had to undo. First, I swapped the silver side stand for the black one. Next, I flipped the spacer position on the rear shock and adjusted the spring preset, and used the lower mounting hole. Later, after re-install, I notice the spacer is now in what is considered 'lowered' position in the service manual. Question #1: Is this a problem?

Because of this situation, I cracked one of the front forks, without removing, to see the spacer on top of the fork spring, again, standard position according to the manual. Question #2: Can I assume the front fork is 'unlowered'?

It seems that when they 'lowered' this bike, they slapped on a sticker, silver side stand, and used the upper shock hole, and called it good. Am I missing something? Any body have a measurement for the front forks I could use to verify stock height? I really don't feel like taking the forks apart for nothing, or at least until I can throw in some Intiminators .

Thanks for the insight, matt

Stock fork height (not lowered) is approx. 34" from the center of the axle to the top of the triple clamp.

The PO had the bike lowered by the dealer and I went through the same thing . In my case they did reverse the spacers in the fork tubes to lower it but only swapped the rear shock to the lower mounting hole and did not flip the spacer.

I think every dealer has there own version of how much they need to drop the bike for each customer
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:49 PM   #46503
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorr View Post
Thanks jessepitt, The forks are [flush] with the top clamp, so they didn't do that method. Me thinks there is little to reverse? Cheers, matt

Yeah, dunno why they switched the side stand, but what the heck, ride it!
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:51 PM   #46504
zune
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starting issue

no I didn't adjust the air/fuel screw.Do you know how many turns it should be.The plugs are wet with fuel.
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:57 PM   #46505
jessepitt
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Originally Posted by zune View Post
no I didn't adjust the air/fuel screw.Do you know how many turns it should be.The plugs are wet with fuel.

You (or the PO) removed the little brass plug that covers the A/F screw? If so I would start a 1.5 turns out from gently seated. Can you get the bike to start at all?
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:01 PM   #46506
Xplorr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc 21 View Post
Stock fork height (not lowered) is approx. 34" from the center of the axle to the top of the triple clamp.

The PO had the bike lowered by the dealer and I went through the same thing . In my case they did reverse the spacers in the fork tubes to lower it but only swapped the rear shock to the lower mounting hole and did not flip the spacer.

I think every dealer has there own version of how much they need to drop the bike for each customer
Your idea that they did what they needed for just the right height is charitable, I like that kind of optimism. It did have the god awful gel seat on it too, anybody want to buy it?




Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Yeah, dunno why they switched the side stand, but what the heck, ride it!
Not gonna keep me from riding it!
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:01 PM   #46507
zune
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starting issues

Thanks for the advice ,the bike will not fire at all.Its an 08 with 5000 KM,s.Stock I am stumped.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:12 PM   #46508
psquared
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Guys, this is old info, but I installed the Ricor Intiminators yesterday. First, super easy install and good instructions. Second, I have only tested in the neighborhood, but HOLY COW, this absolutely transformed the fork. No dive under braking, just controlled stop, jumped and hit a couple of curbs and the thing settles immediately instead of the usual wobbling. It's weird, because I'm so used to how the suspension pogos, that having changed that it is like the sun finally rising after days of darkness...no lie. Crazy.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:18 PM   #46509
jessepitt
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Originally Posted by zune View Post
Thanks for the advice ,the bike will not fire at all.Its an 08 with 5000 KM,s.Stock I am stumped.

Is it possible one of the safety switches is screwing with you? Have you by-passed the clutch and kickstand kill switches? Does it try to start or does it just crank without catching at all?
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:23 PM   #46510
zune
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starting issues

at one point it would try to start but now it will roll over but it will not fire at all.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:37 PM   #46511
Jon_PDX
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Another - Lowering/raising question

My bike (2009) had also been lowered by the PO. He did it by raising the forks and using the upper hole on the rear shock. He still had the black side stand on the bike though.

I had lowered my last DR650 the factory way and I liked it. But after riding the DRZ400 the DR650 height is a non-issue. So until I decide if I'm going to lower it the correct way or keep it stock, I decided to raise the bike back up yesterday because it sits to upright with the black side stand.

I raised the bike, moved the rear back to the lower hole and slid the forks back down in the trees.

Here's where my question comes in.....

When torqueing the lower fork clamps to 19 ft/lbs per the online manual there was a slight squeak just before they were tight. It kind of surprised me because I've torqued lots of fork clamps in the past and do not remember having that happening before.

I had the bike in the air but not all the weight was off the front.

I only did one fork at a time using a 3/8 drive 5-80 ft/lb "clicker" torque wrench.
  1. Should I be concerned?
  2. Should I take all the weight off the front and retorque?
  3. Maybe take them down to 16.5 ft/lbs?
  4. Use some anti-size on the bolts?
  5. Just ride it and have fun?
Thanks,

Jon...
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:47 PM   #46512
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorr View Post
Hey all, Question #1: Is this a problem?
Other than the rear suspension travel is about 1.5" less, no. Street riding, doesn't matter, quicker off-road speeds, it does.

Quote:
Because of this situation, I cracked one of the front forks, without removing, to see the spacer on top of the fork spring, again, standard position according to the manual. Question #2: Can I assume the front fork is 'unlowered'? Any body have a measurement for the front forks I could use to verify stock height?
Probably, my stock forks (full extension) are 35 1/4" from the fork cap to the axle centerline. Factory lowered should be 33 3/4".
Quote:
Originally Posted by zune View Post
at one point it would try to start but now it will roll over but it will not fire at all.
If the engine turns over with the starter, the clutch and sidestand switches should be fine. Try removing the fuel line at the petcock, fuel should not flow in run or reserve; but it should with the petcock in prime.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
.
Torquing one side of my forks squeaked, the other didn't.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:51 PM   #46513
zune
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starting issues

yes the fuel does flow i the prime position.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:54 PM   #46514
pjensen641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zune View Post
at one point it would try to start but now it will roll over but it will not fire at all.

Try swapping your plugs. If they are sooty at all, the spark can partially ground out through the conductive carbon fouling. Definitely worth the $6 to either fix it or eliminate is as the problem. I saw a dude work for days on his bike...going so far as to tear out the stator...the final fix was the plugs after some older mechanic at a bike shop mentioned this.

I have also had corrosion between the frame coil cause issues. Poor ground so the coil was not fully charging. Just unbolt sand frame and coil, slap some dielectric grease on the mounting points of the frame and bolt back up. Thi happened to me on an older honda street bike. It would run at low RPMs but would not run over about 4K. Had the carbs apart 3X before I thought about the coils.

Final thing I can think of that causes weak spark is sometimes a low battery. just enough to roll it over, but not enough to give a good charge to the coil. Not sure if the DR coil runs off the stator or the battery though.

You could always try a few drops of gas down the spark plug hole, then roll it over and see if you get a pop or two. That would point you back to no fuel.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:56 PM   #46515
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zune View Post
at one point it would try to start but now it will roll over but it will not fire at all.

Is your battery still hot? Does it crank over quickly? If your bat. is dying it will not get enough spark to overcome other problems like flooded cylinder etc. Make sure you bat. is fresh and try spraying a little starting fluid into the intake. If that doesn't make it hiccup then I would start looking at safety switches.
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