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Old 03-28-2011, 08:41 AM   #46531
zune
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starting issues no more

Thanks for the help ,picked up 2 new plugs and she fired right up .Took her for a ride and she works nice.I learned a little more about the bike and thanks for the help again..
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:12 AM   #46532
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Thanks, I'm going to start the reading and parts gathering to get this chore done myself.

The elevation where I live is right at 300 feet above sea level.

When I bought the bike from the original owner in January 2010 it had spent most of it's life sitting. I suspect the fuel had gelled and now I've taken it as far as I can take it with cleaner additives.

Last summer I rode the CDT and borrowed an IMS tank from a friend. The extra range was a godsend out there but riding locally it is not such an issue. That said, the extra range now would be the difference between staying in the national forest all day on one tankful, or having to come out at mid day to find a gas station.

So if I can get the mileage up to the 50 mpg range I can skip the IMS tank business.
The fuel additives may have killed the o-rings and the needle valve..... At stock settings with a 260 pound rider I got over 50 mpg easily. It may just be a float level issue.

Its an easy job. Remove the carb, remove the fuel bowl screws which when stock are very tight. Remove the float pin, pull it straight up, replace the o-rings, check the needle valve for issues, remove the main jet, pilot jet, pilot screw, spray carb cleaner in all holes and passages, put it all back, set the float level, put the bowl back on.

I would have the o-rings, new allen head screws, an extended pilot screw and a new pilot jet on hand before cleaning the carb. The main jet is usually fine with some light green crap on it. Wipe it off, do not damage the jets by putting needles or something else hard in them.

At sea level, my bike liked 2 1/2 turns out on the pilot air screw. You will need to have a drill bit for the pilot air screw plug if its not been removed. I would have an easy out kit ready in case the pilot jet is stuck in tight, a manual impact driver or some thing to break the fuel bowl screws loose if original. With a manual impact you probably wont damage the screws but, I would replace them anyway. I like to locktite my bowl screws, I've had them loosen up when riding in the past. You will need a vernier caliber to measure the float level or some thing that can measure the float level which is .58"...

Procycle has the BST Repair Kit, comes with all the o-rings and the screws, fuel needle, bowl seal, extended pilot screw: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#fuelsystems

sagedrifter screwed with this post 03-28-2011 at 09:44 AM Reason: Added link
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:34 AM   #46533
Junglerot
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FCR adapter

I got a fcr 39 carb for my DR, and I'm looking for the Sudco adapter. I found Sudco's catalog with the adapters, but I'm not sure which one to order. Does anyone know which adapter I need to get?

Catalog page here
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:12 AM   #46534
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Pull the hose off the inlet tube and you should see the white top of it just sticking out. You will need a little screw driver or knife to pry it out. Just remove it to check if that is the problem, but don't run to long without it. It is pretty small.
Good advice.
Also, even though I said DR's rarely foul spark plugs ... in your case it sounds like you may have somehow done it. Perhaps you rode a few days with the choke on? Very common to do so. This will foul plugs eventually.

Install new plugs ... be sure to blow out all grit and debris trapped down in spark plug wells before removing old plugs. Once they are out .... let things sit for 15 minutes so any fuel can evaporate away in cylinder. Use a dab of Anti-seize on new plug threads. Do not over tighten.

Keep the battery on the Batt. Tender.

The little white filter may get damaged removing it .... Replace it if needed.

Still won't start? Replace pilot jet.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:18 AM   #46535
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
They do sell a repair kit that includes a new float needle and o-rings. I have heard that bad o-rings can hurt your mileage. An 08 seems a liitle new for carb problems, unless you have really racked up the miles. How is your fuel screw setting, air filter?
I agree. Too new to have worn out any OEM carb parts. Be very careful about installing NON Suzuki parts in your carb.
Impossible to diagnose without ALL details on current mods/specs.
Have any round eyes been fooling with your carb?

A 100% stock DR650 normally gets 50 go 55 MPG. So what has been changed on your bike?
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:23 AM   #46536
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Hmm. You are a more patient man than I.

I"m going to give the thing my best clean it up and tweak everything effort, but if it still does not improve the mpg I'll lay back in the weeds and buy a better mpg yielding stock carb from someone who installed a pumper. Hopefully it won't come to that.

Also, I need to note a correction. While on the CDT I pulled the airbox lid at around the 6,000 ft in elevation mark and ran it open until I got back down to around 3,000 to 2,500 ft. somewhere in the mid-west on the return trip.

As we dropped in elevation the air density increased and it was returning around 48 mpg when I put the air box lid back on. (My main complaint on the open air box is the "giant sucking sound" that obscures every other noise.)

But, my buddy who was with me consistently got 50-55 mpg on a stock bike, and he never had to pull his air-box lid to get what he needed.

So I have to think something is slightly out of whack on the air/fuel mix, or perhaps the float, and that if I can get it right I can get the better mpg without pulling the lid and enduring the noise.
48 mpg while traveling cross country ain't bad at all. But 40 mpg is not right unless your running 80 mph! I vote for a stuck choke... When loaded up with camping gear running forestry roads, 47 mpg average is normal for me with my pumper carb and stock exhaust. But I'm loaded with full gear, probably around 70 plus pounds in my three bags when I'm carring the tubes and food for the longer rides. Another 5 pounds in the tank bag and my big but. I carry cooking gear, food, some water and a water filter, 3 man back country tent, tubes, tools, air compressor...etc. With the Safari tank I can stay in the woods for a while...

I hated the stock tank, always hitting reserve some times at 80 miles running the interstate, some times 120 in the mountains. It sucked having to fill up every time I was near a station. Now I fill up once a day while touring, usually around 300 to 400 miles... Off road I put in about 5 or 6 gallons and still run all day with no worries.. usually with plenty left over for the stock tank running guys.. I charge $10 per gallon for delivery or beer...
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:57 AM   #46537
pjensen641
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Location: Boone, IA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Hmm. You are a more patient man than I.

I"m going to give the thing my best clean it up and tweak everything effort, but if it still does not improve the mpg I'll lay back in the weeds and buy a better mpg yielding stock carb from someone who installed a pumper. Hopefully it won't come to that.

Also, I need to note a correction. While on the CDT I pulled the airbox lid at around the 6,000 ft in elevation mark and ran it open until I got back down to around 3,000 to 2,500 ft. somewhere in the mid-west on the return trip.

As we dropped in elevation the air density increased and it was returning around 48 mpg when I put the air box lid back on. (My main complaint on the open air box is the "giant sucking sound" that obscures every other noise.)

But, my buddy who was with me consistently got 50-55 mpg on a stock bike, and he never had to pull his air-box lid to get what he needed.

So I have to think something is slightly out of whack on the air/fuel mix, or perhaps the float, and that if I can get it right I can get the better mpg without pulling the lid and enduring the noise.
Definitely check float level, and make sure the PO didn't shim the needle too far. Also make sure its resting on the correct spot within the slide. The float level is set by bending the tab that contacts the needle (not needle jet). The float only needs replacement if there is a leak in it, otherwise no benefit. To test this, you get the float out of the carb and shake it. If you hear a sloshing sound, fuel has leaked in and will cause a loss of buoyancy. This will in effect raise the fuel level in the carb and make it run rich. The DJ kit (or procycle) and open air box could give you BETTER fuel mileage if you keep MPG in mind when selecting main and needle position. At least get the jet kit. The Needle in the kit has a better taper profile. The stock needle is both richer than ideal in some case, and leaner than ideal in others. Plus, it will be in new/unworn condition. Fuel mileage is mostly set by the clip position on the needle. This is because the Needle control lower to mid range fueling. Leave the main just rich enough to be safe, it will only affect full throttle fuel mileage anyway.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:00 AM   #46538
pjensen641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zune View Post
Thanks for the help ,picked up 2 new plugs and she fired right up .Took her for a ride and she works nice.I learned a little more about the bike and thanks for the help again..

Yep, you almost had it diagnosed. You had it down to weak spark and dark plugs. That was enough to tell me that this was the issue. Old fuel is usually the only reason for fouling plugs on a modern bike. I've only ever seen it happen in the spring when you try to run the first tank out.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:23 AM   #46539
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I know the tire thing has been beat to death, but what the heck, nothing like flailing a dead horse. Gotta get it tender after all. (yes, I've searched, didn't find that much DR specific about the ones I have in mind).

I bought my bike primarily to explore, camp and play on forest service roads and perhaps mild trails here in North Idaho. We're kinda in dual sport heaven here. I figured most of my pavement time would be getting to and from the fun stuff. I bought the bike used with D606s, they seem to work well on what little I time I've put on it, on gravel. From what I've read, they would be a good choice for this intended use.

Now the problem....$4.19 diesel and a 85 mile round trip commute. I'm finding myself commuting with the bike and running more pavement than I had planned. The D606s seem to be wearing pretty quickly. I've only put on about 400 miles (did I mention I bought the bike in DE...in N. ID?), but they've worn noticably.

I see good reviews about the Shinko 244s, both for life, decent dirt and pavement performance and cost. Sounds like a good fit for me. I'll still be about 50/50 even with commuting, I have some gravel backroads to take on the way. Any experience with this tire? Or recommendations for something else? Any experience with these, vs D606s?

Thanks all. Some day I hope to have enough experience to contribute something...rather than just asking questions.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:34 AM   #46540
IdahoRenegade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjensen641 View Post
Yep, you almost had it diagnosed. You had it down to weak spark and dark plugs. That was enough to tell me that this was the issue. Old fuel is usually the only reason for fouling plugs on a modern bike. I've only ever seen it happen in the spring when you try to run the first tank out.
I've seen the same thing happen with snowmobiles when parked over the summer. Fresh gas and a new set of plugs seems to straighten things out.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:40 AM   #46541
Jocassee
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Anyone have a bug where the bike runs rough in cold weather? Under about 65 it runs fine, just not right. Hesitates and stutters. Above that, runs like a scalded dog. Any ideas?

This is regardless of engine temp.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:48 AM   #46542
RamMan4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jocassee View Post
Anyone have a bug where the bike runs rough in cold weather? Under about 65 it runs fine, just not right. Hesitates and stutters. Above that, runs like a scalded dog. Any ideas?

This is regardless of engine temp.
Sounds like too much or too little fuel. Have you made any modifications lately (new pipe, hole in airbox, jetting, etc...)? Hesitation when you roll on the throttle is usually not enough fuel but when I jetted my honda recon (250cc) many years ago, I started out with a jet for a 300cc engine (much too large). It stuttered at low rpms, but once it wound up it ran great...sounds kind of like what's happening to you. I don't think the SC range of cold temps would affect it that much once the engine is warm.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:49 AM   #46543
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junglerot View Post
I got a fcr 39 carb for my DR, and I'm looking for the Sudco adapter. I found Sudco's catalog with the adapters, but I'm not sure which one to order. Does anyone know which adapter I need to get?

Catalog page here
Sudco adapter?
The simple answer is, none of them.

The sleeve to make is 54.5mm ID x 58.5mm OD x 26mm long.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:57 AM   #46544
RamMan4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade View Post
I know the tire thing has been beat to death, but what the heck, nothing like flailing a dead horse. Gotta get it tender after all. (yes, I've searched, didn't find that much DR specific about the ones I have in mind).

I bought my bike primarily to explore, camp and play on forest service roads and perhaps mild trails here in North Idaho. We're kinda in dual sport heaven here. I figured most of my pavement time would be getting to and from the fun stuff. I bought the bike used with D606s, they seem to work well on what little I time I've put on it, on gravel. From what I've read, they would be a good choice for this intended use.

Now the problem....$4.19 diesel and a 85 mile round trip commute. I'm finding myself commuting with the bike and running more pavement than I had planned. The D606s seem to be wearing pretty quickly. I've only put on about 400 miles (did I mention I bought the bike in DE...in N. ID?), but they've worn noticably.

I see good reviews about the Shinko 244s, both for life, decent dirt and pavement performance and cost. Sounds like a good fit for me. I'll still be about 50/50 even with commuting, I have some gravel backroads to take on the way. Any experience with this tire? Or recommendations for something else? Any experience with these, vs D606s?

Thanks all. Some day I hope to have enough experience to contribute something...rather than just asking questions.
Most 50/50 tires are only going to get around 2k +/- 1k miles. Mefo's seem to be pretty popular with the long distance touring crowd which would indicate they get decent mileage although they are pretty expensive ($250+ for a pair from what I've read).

LINK to short list and description of popular DR tires:
http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Tires

Gas prices and commuting distance is why I have a TDI...it gets about the same or better mileage than my bike. Though I'm still affected by diesel fuel prices and it's a little more expensive to work on.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:01 PM   #46545
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade View Post
Now the problem....$4.19 diesel and a 85 mile round trip commute. I'm finding myself commuting with the bike and running more pavement than I had planned. The D606s seem to be wearing pretty quickly. I've only put on about 400 miles (did I mention I bought the bike in DE...in N. ID?), but they've worn noticably.

I see good reviews about the Shinko 244s, both for life, decent dirt and pavement performance and cost. Sounds like a good fit for me. I'll still be about 50/50 even with commuting, I have some gravel backroads to take on the way. Any experience with this tire? Or recommendations for something else? Any experience with these, vs D606s?

Thanks all. Some day I hope to have enough experience to contribute something...rather than just asking questions.
The 244's are quite a soft compound. I'd be inclined to run a 244 rear with an MT21 front. The MT21 isn't directional so you can reverse it when it starts wearing the back of the knobs under braking to make it last even longer.
I found the 244 rear would step out a lot when leaned over, but very smoothly.
It's enough of a knob to get you up the shale slopes but not enough knob that it rips up the ground in the process.

Having said that, I'd actually go for Shinko 705's now if there's no mud involved.
Shale downhills are not it's forte but it's a surprisingly capable tyre.
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