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Old 03-27-2011, 08:24 PM   #46531
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
I'm tired of this 40 mpg business and think I'll tear the carb completely down ('08 DR650) and clean and rebuild it.

Can anyone tell me what parts to get, or if there is a kit, what kit to get?
There are two o-rings on the float assembly; 15 and 16 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502315

Quote:
Originally Posted by zune View Post
the drain screw on the carb when loosened fuel will flow with the petcock in the prime position and the plugs are wet. I can't replace the plugs until tommorow.
Yes gas will flow until the float bowl is empty. So, put the petcock in run or reserve; fuel flow should STOP after the float bowl is empty. Let us know. Also, see my response above; about the two o-rings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Thanks. I actually want to keep it stock -- i.e.. not cut the airbox. Does their kit allow that option?
No, it really doesn't. I live at 5800 ft and ride up from there. Stock jets, all I've done is remove the snorkel and cut a small hole in the top of the airbox (1.75 x 1.75 or there abouts). I always got above 160 miles before reserve, close to 60mpg: ride solo, 15t sprocket, don't abuse my DR, short shift, yada yada. This has lessened over the last year, I'm guessing my carb parts are wearing at 21,000 miles. Original chain is just about done, new one and sprockets on order.

So, what's your altitude??

The replacement stock float is $74.
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2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-27-2011 at 08:34 PM
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:26 PM   #46532
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zune View Post
Back from changing the gas and cleaning the carb.The spark looks week and plugs were black.Is it comman to have a bad coil or 2 fouled plugs at the same time.Thanks
Where did you set the float level at? Are you sure you have the complete float assembly in place. Are the O-Rings in good shape? Is the petcock leaking at all?

Do you know a good dealer that can fix it?

Where are you, maybe a fellow owner is close by??

The carb is simple after you know what to look for. One mans cleaning ain't another...

But, it sounds like its flooding, probably due to a leaking petcock flooding the engine overnight. I would guess the float level was messed up when you opened things up too, maybe not. I don't remember reading where you set the float. I do know when my engine is flooding I check the petcock and I check that the float is right and the float needle is sealing good. So, if the plugs are wet and you do have spark, petcock is dry with the engine off, check the choke operation... make sure its not stuck on flooding things, check the float level/needle and the floats o-rings next.

sagedrifter screwed with this post 03-27-2011 at 08:52 PM
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:07 PM   #46533
Xplorr
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Location: Montucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc 21 View Post
Stock fork height (not lowered) is approx. 34" from the center of the axle to the top of the triple clamp.
Bike at rest on the forks, 34", check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
my stock forks (full extension) are 35 1/4" from the fork cap to the axle centerline.
Bike on stand, forks unweighted, 35 1/4", check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Other than the rear suspension travel is about 1.5" less, no. Street riding, doesn't matter, quicker off-road speeds, it does.
Looks like I need to re-unlower the lowering for max travel.

Thanks guys, matt
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:12 PM   #46534
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorr View Post
Bike at rest on the forks, 34", check.



Bike on stand, forks unweighted, 35 1/4", check.



Looks like I need to re-unlower the lowering for max travel.

Thanks guys, matt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:41 AM   #46535
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There are two o-rings on the float assembly; 15 and 16 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502315

Yes gas will flow until the float bowl is empty. So, put the petcock in run or reserve; fuel flow should STOP after the float bowl is empty. Let us know. Also, see my response above; about the two o-rings.

No, it really doesn't. I live at 5800 ft and ride up from there. Stock jets, all I've done is remove the snorkel and cut a small hole in the top of the airbox (1.75 x 1.75 or there abouts). I always got above 160 miles before reserve, close to 60mpg: ride solo, 15t sprocket, don't abuse my DR, short shift, yada yada. This has lessened over the last year, I'm guessing my carb parts are wearing at 21,000 miles. Original chain is just about done, new one and sprockets on order.

So, what's your altitude??

The replacement stock float is $74.
Thanks, I'm going to start the reading and parts gathering to get this chore done myself.

The elevation where I live is right at 300 feet above sea level.

When I bought the bike from the original owner in January 2010 it had spent most of it's life sitting. I suspect the fuel had gelled and now I've taken it as far as I can take it with cleaner additives.

Last summer I rode the CDT and borrowed an IMS tank from a friend. The extra range was a godsend out there but riding locally it is not such an issue. That said, the extra range now would be the difference between staying in the national forest all day on one tankful, or having to come out at mid day to find a gas station.

So if I can get the mileage up to the 50 mpg range I can skip the IMS tank business.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:39 AM   #46536
plugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
I'm tired of this 40 mpg business and think I'll tear the carb completely down ('08 DR650) and clean and rebuild it.
best of luck
i've been chasing this for 3 years & no good came of it.
since the speedo failed, its been fine... ignorance can be ok until it runs out of gas which sucks
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:53 AM   #46537
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
best of luck
i've been chasing this for 3 years & no good came of it.
since the speedo failed, its been fine... ignorance can be ok until it runs out of gas which sucks
Hmm. You are a more patient man than I.

I"m going to give the thing my best clean it up and tweak everything effort, but if it still does not improve the mpg I'll lay back in the weeds and buy a better mpg yielding stock carb from someone who installed a pumper. Hopefully it won't come to that.

Also, I need to note a correction. While on the CDT I pulled the airbox lid at around the 6,000 ft in elevation mark and ran it open until I got back down to around 3,000 to 2,500 ft. somewhere in the mid-west on the return trip.

As we dropped in elevation the air density increased and it was returning around 48 mpg when I put the air box lid back on. (My main complaint on the open air box is the "giant sucking sound" that obscures every other noise.)

But, my buddy who was with me consistently got 50-55 mpg on a stock bike, and he never had to pull his air-box lid to get what he needed.

So I have to think something is slightly out of whack on the air/fuel mix, or perhaps the float, and that if I can get it right I can get the better mpg without pulling the lid and enduring the noise.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:31 AM   #46538
koorbloh
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in case anyone was wondering... fresh d606's give you instant skill, and jumping a big fat dual sport is fun.

*also, I need new springs front and rear

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Old 03-28-2011, 08:41 AM   #46539
zune
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starting issues no more

Thanks for the help ,picked up 2 new plugs and she fired right up .Took her for a ride and she works nice.I learned a little more about the bike and thanks for the help again..
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:12 AM   #46540
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Thanks, I'm going to start the reading and parts gathering to get this chore done myself.

The elevation where I live is right at 300 feet above sea level.

When I bought the bike from the original owner in January 2010 it had spent most of it's life sitting. I suspect the fuel had gelled and now I've taken it as far as I can take it with cleaner additives.

Last summer I rode the CDT and borrowed an IMS tank from a friend. The extra range was a godsend out there but riding locally it is not such an issue. That said, the extra range now would be the difference between staying in the national forest all day on one tankful, or having to come out at mid day to find a gas station.

So if I can get the mileage up to the 50 mpg range I can skip the IMS tank business.
The fuel additives may have killed the o-rings and the needle valve..... At stock settings with a 260 pound rider I got over 50 mpg easily. It may just be a float level issue.

Its an easy job. Remove the carb, remove the fuel bowl screws which when stock are very tight. Remove the float pin, pull it straight up, replace the o-rings, check the needle valve for issues, remove the main jet, pilot jet, pilot screw, spray carb cleaner in all holes and passages, put it all back, set the float level, put the bowl back on.

I would have the o-rings, new allen head screws, an extended pilot screw and a new pilot jet on hand before cleaning the carb. The main jet is usually fine with some light green crap on it. Wipe it off, do not damage the jets by putting needles or something else hard in them.

At sea level, my bike liked 2 1/2 turns out on the pilot air screw. You will need to have a drill bit for the pilot air screw plug if its not been removed. I would have an easy out kit ready in case the pilot jet is stuck in tight, a manual impact driver or some thing to break the fuel bowl screws loose if original. With a manual impact you probably wont damage the screws but, I would replace them anyway. I like to locktite my bowl screws, I've had them loosen up when riding in the past. You will need a vernier caliber to measure the float level or some thing that can measure the float level which is .58"...

Procycle has the BST Repair Kit, comes with all the o-rings and the screws, fuel needle, bowl seal, extended pilot screw: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#fuelsystems

sagedrifter screwed with this post 03-28-2011 at 09:44 AM Reason: Added link
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:34 AM   #46541
Junglerot
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Oddometer: 3,415
FCR adapter

I got a fcr 39 carb for my DR, and I'm looking for the Sudco adapter. I found Sudco's catalog with the adapters, but I'm not sure which one to order. Does anyone know which adapter I need to get?

Catalog page here
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:12 AM   #46542
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Pull the hose off the inlet tube and you should see the white top of it just sticking out. You will need a little screw driver or knife to pry it out. Just remove it to check if that is the problem, but don't run to long without it. It is pretty small.
Good advice.
Also, even though I said DR's rarely foul spark plugs ... in your case it sounds like you may have somehow done it. Perhaps you rode a few days with the choke on? Very common to do so. This will foul plugs eventually.

Install new plugs ... be sure to blow out all grit and debris trapped down in spark plug wells before removing old plugs. Once they are out .... let things sit for 15 minutes so any fuel can evaporate away in cylinder. Use a dab of Anti-seize on new plug threads. Do not over tighten.

Keep the battery on the Batt. Tender.

The little white filter may get damaged removing it .... Replace it if needed.

Still won't start? Replace pilot jet.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:18 AM   #46543
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
They do sell a repair kit that includes a new float needle and o-rings. I have heard that bad o-rings can hurt your mileage. An 08 seems a liitle new for carb problems, unless you have really racked up the miles. How is your fuel screw setting, air filter?
I agree. Too new to have worn out any OEM carb parts. Be very careful about installing NON Suzuki parts in your carb.
Impossible to diagnose without ALL details on current mods/specs.
Have any round eyes been fooling with your carb?

A 100% stock DR650 normally gets 50 go 55 MPG. So what has been changed on your bike?
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:23 AM   #46544
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Hmm. You are a more patient man than I.

I"m going to give the thing my best clean it up and tweak everything effort, but if it still does not improve the mpg I'll lay back in the weeds and buy a better mpg yielding stock carb from someone who installed a pumper. Hopefully it won't come to that.

Also, I need to note a correction. While on the CDT I pulled the airbox lid at around the 6,000 ft in elevation mark and ran it open until I got back down to around 3,000 to 2,500 ft. somewhere in the mid-west on the return trip.

As we dropped in elevation the air density increased and it was returning around 48 mpg when I put the air box lid back on. (My main complaint on the open air box is the "giant sucking sound" that obscures every other noise.)

But, my buddy who was with me consistently got 50-55 mpg on a stock bike, and he never had to pull his air-box lid to get what he needed.

So I have to think something is slightly out of whack on the air/fuel mix, or perhaps the float, and that if I can get it right I can get the better mpg without pulling the lid and enduring the noise.
48 mpg while traveling cross country ain't bad at all. But 40 mpg is not right unless your running 80 mph! I vote for a stuck choke... When loaded up with camping gear running forestry roads, 47 mpg average is normal for me with my pumper carb and stock exhaust. But I'm loaded with full gear, probably around 70 plus pounds in my three bags when I'm carring the tubes and food for the longer rides. Another 5 pounds in the tank bag and my big but. I carry cooking gear, food, some water and a water filter, 3 man back country tent, tubes, tools, air compressor...etc. With the Safari tank I can stay in the woods for a while...

I hated the stock tank, always hitting reserve some times at 80 miles running the interstate, some times 120 in the mountains. It sucked having to fill up every time I was near a station. Now I fill up once a day while touring, usually around 300 to 400 miles... Off road I put in about 5 or 6 gallons and still run all day with no worries.. usually with plenty left over for the stock tank running guys.. I charge $10 per gallon for delivery or beer...
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:57 AM   #46545
pjensen641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Hmm. You are a more patient man than I.

I"m going to give the thing my best clean it up and tweak everything effort, but if it still does not improve the mpg I'll lay back in the weeds and buy a better mpg yielding stock carb from someone who installed a pumper. Hopefully it won't come to that.

Also, I need to note a correction. While on the CDT I pulled the airbox lid at around the 6,000 ft in elevation mark and ran it open until I got back down to around 3,000 to 2,500 ft. somewhere in the mid-west on the return trip.

As we dropped in elevation the air density increased and it was returning around 48 mpg when I put the air box lid back on. (My main complaint on the open air box is the "giant sucking sound" that obscures every other noise.)

But, my buddy who was with me consistently got 50-55 mpg on a stock bike, and he never had to pull his air-box lid to get what he needed.

So I have to think something is slightly out of whack on the air/fuel mix, or perhaps the float, and that if I can get it right I can get the better mpg without pulling the lid and enduring the noise.
Definitely check float level, and make sure the PO didn't shim the needle too far. Also make sure its resting on the correct spot within the slide. The float level is set by bending the tab that contacts the needle (not needle jet). The float only needs replacement if there is a leak in it, otherwise no benefit. To test this, you get the float out of the carb and shake it. If you hear a sloshing sound, fuel has leaked in and will cause a loss of buoyancy. This will in effect raise the fuel level in the carb and make it run rich. The DJ kit (or procycle) and open air box could give you BETTER fuel mileage if you keep MPG in mind when selecting main and needle position. At least get the jet kit. The Needle in the kit has a better taper profile. The stock needle is both richer than ideal in some case, and leaner than ideal in others. Plus, it will be in new/unworn condition. Fuel mileage is mostly set by the clip position on the needle. This is because the Needle control lower to mid range fueling. Leave the main just rich enough to be safe, it will only affect full throttle fuel mileage anyway.
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