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Old 03-30-2011, 05:40 AM   #46621
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
We are already burning corn juice down here so, that can't be too good on rubber o-rings over time.
Corn juice here too.
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:49 AM   #46622
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc 21 View Post
This is starting to bug me. The bike is nice and tight but I'm getting an annoying rattle from the chain on the rear chain guide. I replaced the front lower wheel with a bearing type thinking that was what was making the noise but no luck. So today I pulled the two screws that hold the bottom friction plate off the rear guide and without the plate the noise is gone.

Now I know I'll have to replace it eventually but maybe I'll do it sooner than later if...............and here's my question, are the heavy duty after market rear guides any quieter the stock POS ?

The rest of the bike is so nice I'd really like to get rid of this rattle that makes it sound like an old truck on a washboard road!
Keintech makes a nice one. I have it on my bike.

DR650 Adjustable chain guide
Adjustable chain guide for running large rear sprockets or standard.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:52 AM   #46623
Jon_PDX
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Location: Clackamas, OR - USA
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Stock seat

I guess I'm one of those 1 in 1,000 folks because although the stock seat is not as nice as the Mustang seat on my other bike, I do not find it to be that bad. For sure it's 10 times better than the stock seat on a DRZ400.

I usually stop every 100 miles or so for gas and a smoke (not while filling the tank....LOL) and I could probably ride all day that way. For sure I know I can ride from Yakima, WA to Portland, OR (187 miles) in heavy rain on the freeway and still walk after I arrive.

I agree with the other folks, stop when you get tired and walk around if needed and you should be fine.

Jon...
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:05 AM   #46624
bigfish5
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I have two thoughts. First off i have almost always lived with whatever seat came on my bike. I had an 08klr before this dr and the seat wasnt all that great but i lived with it. The dr seat was WATER TORTURE, the first day i rode it to work , which is 30 miles, but takes an hour. I felt like i had my azz beat with a 2x4 the whole way it. I work at a large seating company and naturally had planned on putting our seat on anyway. I walked "limped" in the door and told my buds at work to get my seat together because it couldnt wait. The ride home was much much better but i was still sore from the morning ride. Worst seat i have ever sat on.

As for the chain noise. I hated the dr chain noise when i got the bike. It was crazy noisy, i put on the ball bearing chain roller from Kientech and it stopped about half of it. Here is my question. How will the upgraded metal chain guide actually stop the rest? It seems like the chain is still going to slap it also. The inside of the metal guide look to be just pieces of plastic like the stocker. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

My 05 dr650, had 431 miles on it when i bought it in February.

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Old 03-30-2011, 06:20 AM   #46625
Jon_PDX
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The guy I bought my bike from had reversed the insert in the rear chain guide by flipping it 180 deg so the top was on the bottom.

He said it helped but it's been so long since my last DR I honestly can't tell if it helped or not since I do not remember what my other bike sounded like.

Jon...
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:23 AM   #46626
oremike
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One more thought about tools, for the first ride you might look at AAA coverage with motocycle towing. You most likely won't need it on the DR but sometimes just getting home it better than learning about your motorcycle on the side of the road in the dark and rain.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:40 AM   #46627
basketcase
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Location: Fading...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oremike View Post
One more thought about tools, for the first ride you might look at AAA coverage with motocycle towing. You most likely won't need it on the DR but sometimes just getting home it better than learning about your motorcycle on the side of the road in the dark and rain.
Sound advice if in doubt. My insurance includes roadside assistance.

IMHO, unless the bike is a complete dog that was left laying on it's side in a barn for a year, or one that some weenie went to school on and left in a FUBAR status due to incompetent mechanicking aptitudes, it will get him home no problem.

I'll look forward to hearing the rest of the story!
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:47 AM   #46628
Arc 21
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Bigfish5-

Yep exactly!

I think its all about material and construction, The rattle is sound which means parts are resonating from the sharp movement involved.
To me a rear guide can be built that can deaden the noise as well do its job of minding the chain.

So far I've liked all the input from everyone on this and I sure like Jesse's guide but I'll need to hear the words "no or little noise" before I'd lay done my hard earned green.

Every other dirt or dual sport bike that I've owned has not rattled like the one I have now including two other DR's
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:02 AM   #46629
Reddog
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DR650 SM project pic

Finally got my SM project pretty much finished and thought I'd share it. 17" front rim cost lots more than I had hoped, finally got the brake rotor situation figured out, added a Supertrapp and LED blinkers and wide platform pegs. Haven't gotten a chance to ride it much, but so far, so fun! A few more pics at:
http://ImageEvent.com/reddog/dr650supermoto
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:19 AM   #46630
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
The guy I bought my bike from had reversed the insert in the rear chain guide by flipping it 180 deg so the top was on the bottom.

He said it helped but it's been so long since my last DR I honestly can't tell if it helped or not since I do not remember what my other bike sounded like.

Jon...
The stock chain guide on my DR shattered on about the first rock it hit,cheap hard plastic,I put the Kientech guide on,its adjustable for size of sprocket and seems to work great.I dont notice any noise.
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:57 AM   #46631
sagedrifter
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I don't notice any "noise" thats not normal from the chain. Maybe a chain adjustment is in order? I leave mine on the loose side and its fine at all speeds. By reading posts on here you would think the whole chain guide would fall off in 600 miles. I pulled my ear plugs out and rode around, I can hear the valve sounds bouncing off the skid plate, the sounds of the sprockets.... the loud pounding in the open air box... I put my ear plugs back in... much better. :)

I did remove the top chain roller, I noticed it was getting "grooved" a bit more than I expected from the the chain.

I kept the stock seat for a year or so, riding up to 58 miles at a time. Its not the worst seat ever on a DS. The problem is how narrow the sucker is so, an air hawk only helps so much. But, I would bring my air hawk if riding the stock seat over 150 miles. With my Corbin I take a break every 60 or 70 miles, the bumb still gets numb! I run a sheep skin over the entire seat, I want to try the wood beads for pavement rides under the dead sheep. The farkles never end.

sagedrifter screwed with this post 03-30-2011 at 08:03 AM
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:59 AM   #46632
hshirt
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On the Dr Seat

The stock Dr Seat I will agree is like a board but I have to smile because I was into Utlra Marathon Bicycling before my DR 650 and was used to doing 400+ miles rides in 24 hours on a bicycle so I found the seat to feel like my living room couch after those bicycle seats. I did go to a gel seat cause I found one cheap but when ever it gives me the least amout of trouble I think about my supported bicycle time trial from California to Missouri in 5 and a half days and suddenly it doesn't seem so bad at all. I threw in springs, intiminators, an IMS tank with heated grips and gotta tell ya, I never had it so good
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:29 AM   #46633
Grizz Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oremike View Post
One more thought about tools, for the first ride you might look at AAA coverage with motocycle towing. You most likely won't need it on the DR but sometimes just getting home it better than learning about your motorcycle on the side of the road in the dark and rain.
I have an AMA membership that covers towing. For $39/ yr you get up to 5 calls a year. you also get a good mc magazine every month! Also access to lots of cool maps of places to ride on their website.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:31 AM   #46634
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfish5 View Post
Here is my question. How will the upgraded metal chain guide actually stop the rest? It seems like the chain is still going to slap it also. The inside of the metal guide look to be just pieces of plastic like the stocker. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Depending on the design, the guide Jesse sells is likely to also make some noise.

As mentioned, with the stock DR chain guide, over time and wear the noise is reduced as the chain wears down the plastic contact points along the bottom run of the guide.

If you watch the chain at speed you can see it jump up and down. Pretty normal. So it whaps up and down on the plastic inside the guide. Once it wears down a bit, less contact = less noise. This takes 7 to 10,000 miles to quiet down.

My rubber strip solution makes it silent from day one. No more clacking.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:39 AM   #46635
Bo Radley
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Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Oddometer: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
If your jetting is stock it will be lean. They do this from the factory in order to pass emissions. By removing the snorkel you will be leaning it out even more which can cause serious engine problems. Do you clean your air filter regularly? A dirty air filter would explain both your poor mileage and the lack of choke on starts. If you are going to remove the snorkel (after making sure the filter is clean and oiled) you will need to raise the needle by either shimming it with a small washer or buying an adjustable needle. The fuel screw only tunes your idle and the first part of the throttle opening. The needle controls the mid range throttle opening and the main controls wide open flow (to my understanding anyway). This is assuming that you jetting is all stock. If you aren't sure then you will need to open her up and check before making any changes or you will be guessing at everything.
Much thanks. I would rather not "open her up" just over a few mpg's. The air filter is definitely the place to start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Welcome. Yes, pull the snorkel, it's a small, but noticeable improvement. I'd turn the fuel screw in a bit at a time, at least til you need the choke on a cold start. 'Cept you're in Kali; does it ever get cold there? Remember that the fuel screw flows any time the engine is running, so a little leaner is always leaner. This can make a difference in a tankful. With your low altitude, the stock jetting is likely lean, so you get the performance I can only dream about. On the other hand, I get the mileage you can only dream about.

Yep, you need to buy an IMS 4.9 gal tank.

RaceTech emulators, fork springs, a Cogent shock upgrade, meybee a front knobbie and that KTM will be lookin' over his shoulder thinkin' "Who is that guy?"

Damn, this thread moves fast.
Nope..never cold here in Kali...'specially here in SoKali. The only upgrade I really want is a seat so that I can get to a dirt road without my ars being over it already. Then I will think about the more dirty mods.

Thanks for all the input. This place is great.
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