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Old 04-14-2011, 10:29 PM   #47536
wolfie083188
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: SW Flatistan
Oddometer: 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Is it a #40 Torx ?
kind of looks like it but has a bar in the middle. the torx t40 wont fit because the bar interfiers.
looks like some kind of special screw...
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Suzuki DRZ650SE 2007
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:31 PM   #47537
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfie083188 View Post
1. 2000 DRZ400s front triple tree with forks and bar mounts
2. DRZ400s Front wheel with dunlop tire (80% tread) , brake rotor and speedo. $200

im about to order the front axle. aside from the new brake caliper, hose and master cylinder, what else do i need ?

i know someone did this mod with a 2002 triple tree but ive heard 2000 to current are the same.... i sure as hell hope so.
my only worry is the bearings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfie083188 View Post
i know, this bikes my primary and i have no other transportation. i just sold my car 3 weeks ago. Need to get her up and running asap. and im not going blind here, i found someone who did the mod:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255915

ill be going by that page to guide me and my neighbor is helping me out. he loves projects like this
1996 to current triple tree is the same.

This is your primary transportation, and you're focused on upgrading the forks??

I'm begining to understand why my Dad looked at me like I was the milkman's son.

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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:43 PM   #47538
wolfie083188
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Location: SW Flatistan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
1996 to current triple tree is the same.

This is your primary transportation, and you're focused on upgrading the forks??

I'm begining to understand why my Dad looked at me like I was the milkman's son.

lmfao
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:48 PM   #47539
ER70S-2
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Cool2

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2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:58 PM   #47540
maynard911
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Bisbee AZ
Oddometer: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by therivermonster View Post
...it seems to take quite a while to warm up enough to run marginally enough to start riding. Once the engine has run for 6 or 7 minutes everything is fine, however.

My setup:
05 DR
Stock carb
No carb work done
Bar mounted choke
Stock tank and petcock

Any ideas what the problem could be, or are the DRs just cold blooded beasts?
You just need a little carb adjustment, shim needle, remove plug and and richen idle mixture. The 'how to' had been covered many times here, do a search.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:00 PM   #47541
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,203
Quote:
Originally Posted by anaud14 View Post
Oops my bad, too much of a rush to get supper ready for the lady..

It's a 2008 with 22000kms. I do every kind of riding with it, lots of highway, city and trails. The only sign it gave me was a scraping sound at the end of the last ride (20 hwy kms) it sounded like muddy brake rotors. I did't take a picture of the cam chain guides, but they are worn right to the metal underneath
Sounds to me like the cam chain tensioner was removed at some time and then re-installed without first winding it back to the proper position. Doing this would put way too much tension on the chain, wear out the guides and break the chain. The same thing happened to Jammin' Jay before he got out of the states.

You also said it lost all compression. If that's true you also have bent valves. I'm 99.9% certain that you bent at least 2 valves when the chain broke and allowed the piston to hit the valve heads. You'll need to investigate that and take care of them before you can put it back together.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:03 PM   #47542
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfie083188 View Post
yeah man. i have the other frame on standby, but i just ordered a set of things.

1. 2000 DRZ400s front triple tree with forks and bar mounts
2. DRZ400s Front wheel with dunlop tire (80% tread) , brake rotor and speedo. $200

im about to order the front axle. aside from the new brake caliper, hose and master cylinder, what else do i need ?

i know someone did this mod with a 2002 triple tree but ive heard 2000 to current are the same.... i sure as hell hope so.
my only worry is the bearings.
The DR and DRZ calipers are identical. You won't need one unless yours got damaged. You won't need another master cylinder either, unless your is toast.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:04 PM   #47543
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Is it a #40 Torx ?

Now thats funny... Well it made me laugh....
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:05 PM   #47544
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfie083188 View Post
kind of looks like it but has a bar in the middle. the torx t40 wont fit because the bar interfiers.
looks like some kind of special screw...
Tamper-proof torx
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:09 PM   #47545
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,412
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Tamper-proof torx

Harbor Freight has them cheap.... Well they did when I needed a set.. Fastenal can get them too. They usually have a store almost every where.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:27 PM   #47546
BoRaBey
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Mersin/Turkey
Oddometer: 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Damn! DRs in Turkey! Looks like your terrain is kicking your DR's butt.

Can't help you with the manual, however the information below should be of help for most of what you'll be doing on the bike.

VALVE CLEARANCE INSPECTION
Valve inspection: 600 miles; every 7,500 miles thereafter
Remove: side covers – NOTE: remove Phillips bolt, then push side cover to front of bike, then pull side cover away from bike – front tab fits over plastic rod/seat
Remove fuel tank – 10mm socket; fuel tank lines, two on left, one on right side
Remove air dam
Remove one spark plug – socket in tool kit/valve inspection caps – 10mm wrench
Remove valve timing inspection plug – 8mm hex socket/crankcase bolt plug – 10mm hex socket
Turn crankshaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE to set piston at TDC on compressions stroke
"T" line on magneto rotor aligns with center hole on magneto cover.
Note action of rocker arms, compression TDC arrived at when rocker arms do not move when turning crank past “T” line.
Inspect clearance for all four valves; use gauge under each pair of rocker arms
IN: 0.003 - 0.005"
0.08 – 0.13mm
EX: 0.007 - 0.009"
0.17 – 0.22mm
Valve cap bolts: firm, but GENTLE!
Spark plug gap: 0.028 – 0.031”/0.7 – 0.8mm
TDC plug: 16.5 lbft = 198 lbin, lightly greased
Crank plug: firmly tightened, lightly greased

ENGINE OIL CHANGE
600 miles and 3,000 miles thereafter
2.4 quarts
SAE 10W40
Drain plug: 14mm socket / 16.5 lbft = 198 lbin
Filter cover: 8mm; socket in box with oil filters; tighten to “snug”
There are TWO O-rings behind the filter cover: one for the cover, one at the REAR of the filter.
Drain oil through strainer, check for metal

SPARK PLUGS
NGK CR10E – or – NIPPONDENSO U31ESR-N
Spark plug: 96.0 lbin
Put anti-seize grease on threads.

Idle RPM: 1,400rpm

Drive chain slack: 1.2" at middle of bottom run, with top run tight

REPLACE FRONT BRAKE PADS
Remove wheel or detach caliper
Spread pads
Remove cover over pin with blade screwdriver
Back out pin using 5mm Allen socket
As pin backs out, inboard pad will fall out of caliper

REMOVE REAR TIRE
Note position of chain tightening cams!
Axle nut: largest impact driver socket
Nothing needs to be done with caliper
Remove chain guard, 10mm bolts
Remove axle, push wheel forward, remove chain
REINSTALL REAR TIRE
Spread brake pads with large flat screwdriver
Do not remove caliper!
Ensure sprocket assembly is seated properly
Use rubber mallet to tap in axle from left side.
Check tire rotation
Tighten axle nut to 78lbft
Check tire rotation again
Depress brake pedal several times to push out pads
Check tire rotation one last time

TORQUE SPECS
Front axle: 47 lbft
Axle holder nuts: 7.0 lbft = 84.0 lbin
Rear axle nut w/self-locking nut: 79.5 lbft
Caliper bolts: 19 lbft
Pad mounting pin: 13 lbft = 156 lbin
Pad mounting pin plug: 1.8 lbft = 21.6 lbin
Bleed valve: 6.0 lbft = 72.0 lbin (front and rear)
Tightening Torque per bolt shaft size: section 7-27, page 228
Spark plug: 96.0 lbin

FROM MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS
HP, rear wheel: 35.6 hp @ 6500 rpm
Torque, rear wheel: 33.3 lbft @ 4500rpm
Wet weight: 368 lbs
Average mpg: 52.5
Top speed: 95 mph
0-60 mph acceleration: 5.66 seconds
Quarter mile time: 14.03
Quarter mile terminal velocity: 85.11
Braking, 60-0 mph: 131.7 ft
Power/weight: 1:10.34
Rev limiter set at 7,600 rpm

Lex

Thanks Lex
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:50 AM   #47547
RamMan4x4
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Location: Raleigh, NC
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Tamper-proof torx
Hmmm...mine is just a standard allen type, not even the security type allen. Maybe the PO swapped it out.

I picked up one of these several years back for half of what it lists for on their site. Never buy from sears online, shipping takes forever (3+ weeks) and the stores usually have better deals.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:53 AM   #47548
Jammin
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
Oddometer: 1,535
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
Nice video and quite an adventure you have taken on. I also checked out some of your site/blog but will have to go back to it when I have more time to do so.
I also like how the bike has been setup
Thanks for sharing,
Jon...
Thanx Jon, yeah, there's a lot of content from this trip. I hear it takes a couple evenings and a few weekends to read from the beginning Plus, one evening to cook the curry. You must cook the curry to add smell to the pictures

Tell me you love the switches. That's the real dream that I realized with this trip Having a switch box to end all switch boxes and it's been working like a charm with no problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Sounds to me like the cam chain tensioner was removed at some time and then re-installed without first winding it back to the proper position. Doing this would put way too much tension on the chain, wear out the guides and break the chain. The same thing happened to Jammin' Jay before he got out of the states.
Don't remind me, Jeff Must wind up tensioner before install!

Quote:
Originally Posted by therivermonster View Post
...it seems to take quite a while to warm up enough to run marginally enough to start riding. Once the engine has run for 6 or 7 minutes everything is fine, however.
Any ideas what the problem could be, or are the DRs just cold blooded beasts?
Hey mate, my DR acts the same. All though I'm running a different carb (flatslide). It takes maybe 5 minutes to warm up nicely and then all is good. If I just start up and go riding right away, I'm lacking a lot of power and it bogs heavily. But, no worries, I think it's just part of the package. She ran like a champ for days on end above 14,000 ft in Bolivia.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:04 AM   #47549
bobbob
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Location: Kingston GA
Oddometer: 18
Need help on cost

I have a DR650 06 model. I am going to sell. It has skid plate rear rack with bag, tank bag, new rear tire front is like new. 8000 miles on it. No dents bike is for real like new shape. 15 and 14 t front gear. Gps unit with ram mount. has windshield. Bike is in carterville GA area. What would be a a good selling price?????
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:20 AM   #47550
TrophyHunter
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Location: San Diego
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Jay - enjoyed the vid....yeah, that road is straight! Saw the switchbox...you win.

I wore your ride shirt and chanted your name softly while watching. Missed the curry but was cooking swordfish with some minced garlic....

Jay, Jay, Jay, Jay.....



Safe travels....
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