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Old 04-14-2011, 10:05 PM   #47536
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfie083188 View Post
kind of looks like it but has a bar in the middle. the torx t40 wont fit because the bar interfiers.
looks like some kind of special screw...
Tamper-proof torx
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:09 PM   #47537
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Tamper-proof torx

Harbor Freight has them cheap.... Well they did when I needed a set.. Fastenal can get them too. They usually have a store almost every where.
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:27 PM   #47538
BoRaBey
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Mersin/Turkey
Oddometer: 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Damn! DRs in Turkey! Looks like your terrain is kicking your DR's butt.

Can't help you with the manual, however the information below should be of help for most of what you'll be doing on the bike.

VALVE CLEARANCE INSPECTION
Valve inspection: 600 miles; every 7,500 miles thereafter
Remove: side covers – NOTE: remove Phillips bolt, then push side cover to front of bike, then pull side cover away from bike – front tab fits over plastic rod/seat
Remove fuel tank – 10mm socket; fuel tank lines, two on left, one on right side
Remove air dam
Remove one spark plug – socket in tool kit/valve inspection caps – 10mm wrench
Remove valve timing inspection plug – 8mm hex socket/crankcase bolt plug – 10mm hex socket
Turn crankshaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE to set piston at TDC on compressions stroke
"T" line on magneto rotor aligns with center hole on magneto cover.
Note action of rocker arms, compression TDC arrived at when rocker arms do not move when turning crank past “T” line.
Inspect clearance for all four valves; use gauge under each pair of rocker arms
IN: 0.003 - 0.005"
0.08 – 0.13mm
EX: 0.007 - 0.009"
0.17 – 0.22mm
Valve cap bolts: firm, but GENTLE!
Spark plug gap: 0.028 – 0.031”/0.7 – 0.8mm
TDC plug: 16.5 lbft = 198 lbin, lightly greased
Crank plug: firmly tightened, lightly greased

ENGINE OIL CHANGE
600 miles and 3,000 miles thereafter
2.4 quarts
SAE 10W40
Drain plug: 14mm socket / 16.5 lbft = 198 lbin
Filter cover: 8mm; socket in box with oil filters; tighten to “snug”
There are TWO O-rings behind the filter cover: one for the cover, one at the REAR of the filter.
Drain oil through strainer, check for metal

SPARK PLUGS
NGK CR10E – or – NIPPONDENSO U31ESR-N
Spark plug: 96.0 lbin
Put anti-seize grease on threads.

Idle RPM: 1,400rpm

Drive chain slack: 1.2" at middle of bottom run, with top run tight

REPLACE FRONT BRAKE PADS
Remove wheel or detach caliper
Spread pads
Remove cover over pin with blade screwdriver
Back out pin using 5mm Allen socket
As pin backs out, inboard pad will fall out of caliper

REMOVE REAR TIRE
Note position of chain tightening cams!
Axle nut: largest impact driver socket
Nothing needs to be done with caliper
Remove chain guard, 10mm bolts
Remove axle, push wheel forward, remove chain
REINSTALL REAR TIRE
Spread brake pads with large flat screwdriver
Do not remove caliper!
Ensure sprocket assembly is seated properly
Use rubber mallet to tap in axle from left side.
Check tire rotation
Tighten axle nut to 78lbft
Check tire rotation again
Depress brake pedal several times to push out pads
Check tire rotation one last time

TORQUE SPECS
Front axle: 47 lbft
Axle holder nuts: 7.0 lbft = 84.0 lbin
Rear axle nut w/self-locking nut: 79.5 lbft
Caliper bolts: 19 lbft
Pad mounting pin: 13 lbft = 156 lbin
Pad mounting pin plug: 1.8 lbft = 21.6 lbin
Bleed valve: 6.0 lbft = 72.0 lbin (front and rear)
Tightening Torque per bolt shaft size: section 7-27, page 228
Spark plug: 96.0 lbin

FROM MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS
HP, rear wheel: 35.6 hp @ 6500 rpm
Torque, rear wheel: 33.3 lbft @ 4500rpm
Wet weight: 368 lbs
Average mpg: 52.5
Top speed: 95 mph
0-60 mph acceleration: 5.66 seconds
Quarter mile time: 14.03
Quarter mile terminal velocity: 85.11
Braking, 60-0 mph: 131.7 ft
Power/weight: 1:10.34
Rev limiter set at 7,600 rpm

Lex

Thanks Lex
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:50 AM   #47539
RamMan4x4
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Tamper-proof torx
Hmmm...mine is just a standard allen type, not even the security type allen. Maybe the PO swapped it out.

I picked up one of these several years back for half of what it lists for on their site. Never buy from sears online, shipping takes forever (3+ weeks) and the stores usually have better deals.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:53 AM   #47540
Jammin
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
Nice video and quite an adventure you have taken on. I also checked out some of your site/blog but will have to go back to it when I have more time to do so.
I also like how the bike has been setup
Thanks for sharing,
Jon...
Thanx Jon, yeah, there's a lot of content from this trip. I hear it takes a couple evenings and a few weekends to read from the beginning Plus, one evening to cook the curry. You must cook the curry to add smell to the pictures

Tell me you love the switches. That's the real dream that I realized with this trip Having a switch box to end all switch boxes and it's been working like a charm with no problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Sounds to me like the cam chain tensioner was removed at some time and then re-installed without first winding it back to the proper position. Doing this would put way too much tension on the chain, wear out the guides and break the chain. The same thing happened to Jammin' Jay before he got out of the states.
Don't remind me, Jeff Must wind up tensioner before install!

Quote:
Originally Posted by therivermonster View Post
...it seems to take quite a while to warm up enough to run marginally enough to start riding. Once the engine has run for 6 or 7 minutes everything is fine, however.
Any ideas what the problem could be, or are the DRs just cold blooded beasts?
Hey mate, my DR acts the same. All though I'm running a different carb (flatslide). It takes maybe 5 minutes to warm up nicely and then all is good. If I just start up and go riding right away, I'm lacking a lot of power and it bogs heavily. But, no worries, I think it's just part of the package. She ran like a champ for days on end above 14,000 ft in Bolivia.
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:04 AM   #47541
bobbob
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Location: Kingston GA
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Need help on cost

I have a DR650 06 model. I am going to sell. It has skid plate rear rack with bag, tank bag, new rear tire front is like new. 8000 miles on it. No dents bike is for real like new shape. 15 and 14 t front gear. Gps unit with ram mount. has windshield. Bike is in carterville GA area. What would be a a good selling price?????
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:20 AM   #47542
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Jay - enjoyed the vid....yeah, that road is straight! Saw the switchbox...you win.

I wore your ride shirt and chanted your name softly while watching. Missed the curry but was cooking swordfish with some minced garlic....

Jay, Jay, Jay, Jay.....



Safe travels....
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:25 AM   #47543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbob View Post
I have a DR650 06 model. What would be a a good selling price?????
Bob - I don't know that area but a quick check of Craigslist, Bike Trader, etc should give you an idea. I'm guessing 2500-3300 but that is a complete stab in the dark.

You could always put it on CL for 3900 and see if you get a bite...modify down from there if no action?
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:58 AM   #47544
M Singer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbob View Post
I have a DR650 06 model. I am going to sell. It has skid plate rear rack with bag, tank bag, new rear tire front is like new. 8000 miles on it. No dents bike is for real like new shape. 15 and 14 t front gear. Gps unit with ram mount. has windshield. Bike is in carterville GA area. What would be a a good selling price?????
I think you should be able to get around $3000 for it give or take. When I was looking for mine about a year ago I found that the market is not flooded with clean used Dr 650's. A nice DR is harder to find then a nice KLR.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:38 AM   #47545
wolfie083188
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: SW Flatistan
Oddometer: 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The DR and DRZ calipers are identical. You won't need one unless yours got damaged. You won't need another master cylinder either, unless your is toast.
Wow thanks again man!
you just saved me some time and money.
my stock is in 100%perfect like new condition lol. if it fits then it fits :)
did you see the pictures of what the shifter did to the case protector? if it wasent for your case protector, my engine would be toast.
thanks again procycle!
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:58 AM   #47546
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Sounds to me like the cam chain tensioner was removed at some time and then re-installed without first winding it back to the proper position. Doing this would put way too much tension on the chain, wear out the guides and break the chain. The same thing happened to Jammin' Jay before he got out of the states.

You also said it lost all compression. If that's true you also have bent valves. I'm 99.9% certain that you bent at least 2 valves when the chain broke and allowed the piston to hit the valve heads. You'll need to investigate that and take care of them before you can put it back together.
Great info. That had a lot of us scratching our heads (at least me anyway).

Good luck anaud14
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:40 AM   #47547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therivermonster View Post
...it seems to take quite a while to warm up enough to run marginally enough to start riding. Once the engine has run for 6 or 7 minutes everything is fine, however.

My setup:
05 DR
Stock carb
No carb work done
Bar mounted choke
Stock tank and petcock

Any ideas what the problem could be, or are the DRs just cold blooded beasts?
Do you mean it won't run at all if you try to ride it cold or it just doesn't run well until it's warmed up? If it's the latter, mine's the same.

I let mine warm up a couple of minutes before riding and then ride it gently for the next 3-4 minutes. At that point it starts responding well.

........shu
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:41 AM   #47548
Colorado Col Rider
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Rocky Mountains
Oddometer: 197
Tire Rubbing Question

Question for the masses....Hopefully relieve my paranoia.

So I put on a new set of Pirelli MT21's fit real nice, then the other day I decided to switch to the 45/14 sprocket set up.

When I put on the new sprocket set up, My rear MT21 started rubbing slightly on the swingarm of the right side (Disc Side) setting off my paranoia...

i don't think the tire is untrue, and the snail adjusters are both set equally at zero. To the eye it looks straight, but my paranoid mind is now wondering if it was possible to swap the left and right side spacers or some other minor thing that would cause it to be just slightly misaligned or something....

There's plenty of room on the Sprocket side. Hoping someone out there running a 45/14 with a Pirelli MT21 rear has experienced some minor rubbing I guess.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:41 PM   #47549
WilderRider
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Location: Denver, CO
Oddometer: 1,809

Thank you so much for doing this. I have my head buried deep in the sand pretending this will never happen, but some day I am going to get this done. The pictorials are great.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfie083188 View Post
Ok guys, i decided to do the NSU removal because it posed a potential threat to my bikes engine, and frankly my life. I really wouldlent want a loose NSU screw getting caught between a link on the timing chain while going 50+mph (Woldent be fun ) This pictorial is for all the people who have DR650's. Yes that means ALL OF YOU. you HAVE to do this, its a FACTORY flaw on Suzuki's part to even put the NSU on inside of the clutch cover(all other dirt bikes ive seen have them around the area near the front sprocket). While me and my friend were doing this i decided to take step by step Pictures to help everyone out and make this as easy and Error free as possible. At the end of this pictorial, you can have the peace of mind that nothing should go wrong with your beloved bike anymore besides routine maintenance.
Lets get started.

Chances are, you have been riding your bike around like i have, or to get to your preferred location to do this project. the first thing you need to do is let the bike cool down. My friend jose has a shop fan, so i just propped it up for 20 minutes.

Heres a list of things you should have on hand for this project.
1. 3 quarts of 10w 40 Motorcycle Oil (i bought 4)
2. Oil filter
3. Ratchet set
4. T40 Bit head for Ratchet
5.Oil pan and something to put the old oil into when done. (Save trees, its more fun offoading with them then without. )
6. Spare clutch cover gasket (not needed but just in case)



Lets continue. Remove the two bolts on the foot peg to remove it. (more working space= less room for mistakes)

Next un-clip the brake lever.

To make your life easyer to take the lever off, take the two allen bolts off the brake pusher.(which in my opinion, the sockets are too small for such a big screw)

Next, Drain the oil. this might get messy.

Once the oil is drained, Remove the filter cover and filter. toss the filter keeping the O ring that might be stuck on it.

Next Remove the clutch cable from the case

Next un-bolt the front oil hose. ( there will be a O ring stuck on the cover of the engine, make sure it stays there.)
the top hose has a metal washer between the top and bottom of the hose, dont lose them when you un-bolt it.

Next remove all of the screws on the cover taking note which screw goes where, because there are about 4 different size bolts on this cover and can easily strip the case if you put in the wrong screw in the wrong socket when rebuilding. if you are like me and have a moose racing skidplate, you will have to remove it to procede taking the 2 screws out behind it.

when all of the bolts are out, lightly tap the case on all sides with a rubber mallet. (i did not have one so i used a small piece of wood lying around.)

after you get the case loose, slide it out carefully, taking not in what pisition the clutch cable puller was in.

Here are some more images of the inside of the clutch case:

you can already see the NSU but it would be hard as hell to take off without taking the clutch basket off first. (later on you will find that if you stuck your fingers down there and felt the screw, you would be able to take it off by twisting it off with your fingers )



The clutch basket and plates:

First start by removing the bolts over the clutch springs, then the clutch basket bell.


Next remove the clutch plates (slide them all out at once and put them somewhere. dont take them out one by one, you'll want to kick yourself in the face later if you do):



Next find a way to keep the clutch basket in place without moving while you loosen the huge clutch basket nut. i used a clap and a vice grip.

Put the basket to the side and take note the order of the washers between the basket and the shaft.

Now you have a wide open view of the case.

theres another thing i did not like to find in there in my opinion. the fuel pump sprocket is plastic...

Now lets look at the NSU:

Now do whatever you want with it (lovger bolts, Loctite, Wire secure it, Or remove it all together). I chose to remove it to get rid of any future Headaches.


See that black cover looking plate that was over the NSU? the only purpose it serves is to retain the NSU cable from touching any of the sprockets. i also removed that as well. there was no reason for it to be there anymore since i clipped the cable and thats 2 screws less that can get loose in the engine. (even thought they were tight as hell)


Now we start Rebuilding!
ok but the clutch basket back on.


washer...


Same method used to remove the Nut is used to replace it.

Hammer the little flaponto the bolt to prevent it from moving.

Replace clutch plates, bell and springs....

Replace cover and connect all the hoses, put the new oil filter, bolt everything back together. Now clip and join the kickstand switch to prevent headaches in the future.
Refill the oil. (took 2 2/5 quarts of oil to fill)
let the bike run for 5 min, then turn off and chech the oil again.
if everything is fine, then your done and can have peace of mind that your bulletproof DR650 is not truly Bulletproof.

Click the link to see a video on how loose the screws were:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzN87uNuoD0
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:07 PM   #47550
IdahoRenegade
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Sagle, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therivermonster View Post
...it seems to take quite a while to warm up enough to run marginally enough to start riding. Once the engine has run for 6 or 7 minutes everything is fine, however.

My setup:
05 DR
Stock carb
No carb work done
Bar mounted choke
Stock tank and petcock

Any ideas what the problem could be, or are the DRs just cold blooded beasts?
I agree with the other post on carb adjustments, they are too danged lean from the factory. I'd almost drain the battery just trying to get mine to start when it was under 30*.

Look at the carb kit from Procycle, it makes a huge difference both in how they start in cold weather, but also in how they run. It "pulls" much better at low RPMs and is smoother all around. You can chase down the individual pieces for less money, but it's worth the convenience of one stop shopping for a tested package.

With the carb kit in, mine starts first turn (choke on) even in cold weather and runs fine with choke off in less than a minute.
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