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Old 04-17-2011, 08:54 PM   #47686
ER70S-2
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Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
I followed the images from the Procycle page link. There was a small spring in there. I'm going to pull the carb again and remove all that stuff and start over. I hope I didn't damage the threads in the hole...not sure if they make a helicoil that small. I was just amazed how bad the threads in the hole looked right after backing out the original screw. And it took a lot of effort to back it out...it wasn't coming out easily which made me immediately concerned even before trying to screw in the new one.
I'd run a tap through before trying the new fuel screw. Don't have one?? Find one.

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Found a FCR-MX for 100 dollars. Have read over robs install and would like to here if people are having good results with the mod with out horrible gas mileage hits?
I just read something that said: The FCR is for someone that wants to tinker to get the jetting right. The TM-40 is for those of us that want nothing to do with that; plug-n-play.
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:43 PM   #47687
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Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
Are people with pumper carbs nervous about having to shut off the petcock all the time?
Nope. And you can leave the stock vacuum petcock in place if I remember correctly. It's more about your petcock rather than your carb. If your petcock is manual, then I turn it off.

As soon as I put the IMS on with it's manual petcock....start turning.
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:45 PM   #47688
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Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
Are people with pumper carbs nervous about having to shut off the petcock all the time? I'm a bit nervous upgrading from the stock carb because of this reason.
A pumper carb has nothing to do with having to manually shut off the fuel.
It's folks who ditch the stock vacuum operated petcock in favor of a manual one or folks who run the IMS petcock that comes with the IMS tank. In those cases it's wise to shut off the fuel any time the bike is going to be parked for more than an hour of so. The TM40 pumper carbs have a vacuum port built in to operate the stock petcock. The FCR pumper carbs can be modified to supply vacuum for the petcock.
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:02 PM   #47689
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Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
I followed the images from the Procycle page link. There was a small spring in there. I'm going to pull the carb again and remove all that stuff and start over. I hope I didn't damage the threads in the hole...not sure if they make a helicoil that small. I was just amazed how bad the threads in the hole looked right after backing out the original screw. And it took a lot of effort to back it out...it wasn't coming out easily which made me immediately concerned even before trying to screw in the new one.
How did you remove the sealed cap? Its possible you buggered the threads during that process if you weren't careful.
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:33 PM   #47690
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Originally Posted by luv2race View Post
I'm ready to get the TM40, did you notice a difference? Who did you get the carb from? How was the mount up? I've read good news about it and I want to get it soon.
I installed my TM40 last week. I got it from ProCycle. It's a bit more than what you can get it for from Kientech, but it comes with the manifold adapters so it's a for-sure complete package.

The mount up was okay. The instructions were decent, but not excellent. I would add that the removal of the old carb and the installation of the new carb goes MUCH better with you remove the airbox, and then the rubber air boot before removing the old carb.

The throttle cable routing puzzled me for a bit - but now that I've got it figured out I'll try to get a photo of it up sooner than later.

As far as the performance... well, after reading so many reviews I was expecting that I'd be doing power wheelies in first and second gear into the sunset. My stock bike barely wheelied in first (throttle only; I don't know how to clutch it up). With the TM40 my first gear wheelie ability has improved greatly - but it's still not an awesome wheelie machine (for me).

The throttle response is fantastic. It has Right Now power, which is a big contrast to the OEM's significant throttle lag. But for street riding, I don't know if it's $450 better. I wonder if I should have done-up my suspension first.

I tried a 14-tooth counter sprocket today, and that helped my first gear wheelies a lot, but it still wouldn't power-up in second. The general sensation of acceleration isn't a whole lot better than with the 15t and the TM40, but the vibes were more pronounced on the 14t, along with a lower preferred freeway cruising speed (70 mph-comfortably on the 15t, 62-63 comfortably on the 14t). I ended up putting the 15t back on. I'll keep the 14t if I go through a bout of frequent off-road riding.

I have had to get into the carb a couple more times since initial install. My idle-circuit is possibly too lean, which means that I had to turn out the fuel screw more than the suggested 3.5 turns to get the idle to about 1,100-1,300 rpm. And... I'm not sure which screw is the fuel mixture screw - the plastic-knob one, or the brass one that's exposed at the bottom?

My bike has the modified airbox, ground-down header weld, and stock pipe. I put in the Twin Air filter. She does rip pretty damn hard! I just wish I could have my fantasy wheelie monster while still retaining the smoothness of the 15t CS and the stock exhaust. So far I haven't gotten there yet.

(I don't wheelie that often, nor do I want to - but I want to be able to easily when the moment allows.)
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:21 AM   #47691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velocity View Post
I'm not sure which screw is the fuel mixture screw - the plastic-knob one, or the brass one that's exposed at the bottom?
The plastic knob on the side of the carb sets the idle speed.
Screwing it in (clockwise) simply raises the slide a little.
The brass screw at the bottom of the carb adjusts the idle mixture but does have an effect on low end performance (1/4 throttle and below)
That screw has a needle,winding the screw out (anti clockwise looking up ) allows more fuel to flow through the pilot jet inside the fuel bowl,clockwise less fuel.
With the bike at operating temperature you should be able to hear the difference.
Winding it in (lean) until it just falters.. revs drop.
Winding it out until it hunts (rich).. revs at highest point before to rich.
Most set it at the mid way point between the two or slighty richer.

Excess turns in or out normally indicate a to small or big pilot jet,to far out then the pilot jet would be increased to get the adjustment back within the turns out limit (can't remember how many and have a TM40)
The jets though as set up by Procycle will be fine for the mods you have unless you live at high altidude.
Just fine tune the mixture / fuel-air screw under the carb,it will make a noticable difference in running.
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:26 AM   #47692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velocity View Post
I have had to get into the carb a couple more times since initial install. My idle-circuit is possibly too lean, which means that I had to turn out the fuel screw more than the suggested 3.5 turns to get the idle to about 1,100-1,300 rpm. And... I'm not sure which screw is the fuel mixture screw - the plastic-knob one, or the brass one that's exposed at the bottom?
The plastic screw is the idle adjustment.
The bottom brass one is the mixture screw.

Turn the idle screw to get the revs you want.
Turn the mixture screw out to best revs and then back in half a turn.
Then adjust the idle screw again.
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:32 AM   #47693
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Not a have to but I did not like how close this unused tab was to the frame so cut it off.
I can T.I.G it back on if the carb was ever removed. (F.I when I get to that later)





You do indeed need to address the cable routing.
The angle is a little hard on the cable outer where it butts into the steel portion going to the bracket long term.



Don't forget to sit down with the tuning sheets that came with the Procycle TM 40.
Once you read that and become familiar all is much easier (slide carburetors in general)


.
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:57 AM   #47694
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Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
Ok I will send you the one that i have , its in the box and ready to go, just Pm a good address , mike
Excellent, Mike! Thanks for the quick work. Shipping address sent. I'll send ya a pic of it in action
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:18 AM   #47695
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My problem with the TM40 is in the initial opening. Once is fine, but when trying the ride wheelies and feather the throttle is gets to rich and bogs out. Tried backing off the pump hit, didnt work. Gonna try and mess with the fuel air screw again this morning and then possibly drop the clip on the needle.

Is it possible that I need a smaller pump jet???

Other than that the TM40 rips............
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:46 AM   #47696
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Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
How did you remove the sealed cap? Its possible you buggered the threads during that process if you weren't careful.
I followed the instructions...drill the plug, thread in a machine screw, and pull it out. Worked like a charm.
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:14 AM   #47697
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Originally Posted by jgino157 View Post
My problem with the TM40 is in the initial opening. Once is fine, but when trying the ride wheelies and feather the throttle is gets to rich and bogs out. Tried backing off the pump hit, didnt work. Gonna try and mess with the fuel air screw again this morning and then possibly drop the clip on the needle.

Is it possible that I need a smaller pump jet???

Other than that the TM40 rips............
Alright, just got done with a test ride after some tweeking. Got her dialed in sweet, but still having a problem at idle. When shes cold (and she takes forever to warm up) its rough at idle. It has a miss/backfire every so many RPMs and idles like sheeeeet. I want to say, when shes warm, and I re adjust the idle, it runs great.
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:26 AM   #47698
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Fcr mx

Fcr is freaking awesome! For me wheeliesnin 1 2 and occasionally 3! Best mod out there for power. The stock carb for me is not worth keeping! Thx mx Rob!
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:36 AM   #47699
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Just fine tune the mixture / fuel-air screw under the carb,it will make a noticable difference in running.
Excellent explanation!
Getting the mixture right will also make for better starting, smoother idling ... and best of all ... will save fuel. Running the fuel air mixture too rich wastes a lot of fuel on the overrun. (Like down shifting, shut throttle)

I turn the mixture screw IN (clockwise) until idle begins to stumble ... then back it out just until stumbling stops ... usually no more than 1/8 turn out from stumble point. I don't mind a bit of a rough idle, saves gas.

At high altitude lean it out even more for proper idle and better starting.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 04-18-2011 at 10:46 AM
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:44 AM   #47700
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Velocity: "I tried a 14-tooth counter sprocket today, and that helped my first gear wheelies a lot, but it still wouldn't power-up in second."

That is interesting. With my 14t, box open,twin air, rejetted carb, stock header and q4 slip- I feel like I get the most power in second gear. In first I get going in a hurry, but it is second where I can really open her up. Just a little rev before starting to go forward usually hooks it into solid throttle response, but I notice what feels like a lag at times. Im not sure if this is because of my throttle tube or if I am just barely too lean. The fuel line bends oddly to get onto the carb nozzle. Whatever- my point is that I am kind of surprised with how you had your bike tricked out at the time that you wouldn't have had the same or better response. Makes me wonder If I would ever want the pumper carb. I agree that with the 14t the low 60s are a good speed. When I'm in the 70's I feel like the engine is sprinting.
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