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Old 06-02-2011, 11:05 AM   #49711
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldomike View Post
Wow...the PO of my bike said that spring was on it when he bought it and it was way to stiff...ya think !
from what i found on the webernets:

"You can see the number.
For example, 0800-250-1100

0800 means the free height , 8 inch.
250 means inner diameter. , 2.5 inch
1100 means the spring rate , 1100 lbs per inch"

which means you've got one hell of a tight spring on that sucker.
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vintagespeed screwed with this post 06-02-2011 at 11:06 AM Reason: simplerfied
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:08 AM   #49712
M Singer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Like I said...I never saw anyone do it. Max load rating on most dual sport tires is around 450-500lbs per tire at Max pressure. So yeh, I guess if you can add up 1000lbs some how on a DR you should run max pressure...

He is running the TKC 80s wich have a combined load rating of 1106 lbs at max load/pressure...He looks pretty skinny- I don't think he is going to overload the tire!
Like I said, you are wrong about the meaning of max inflation as listed on the sidewall. It is NOT the max pressure for mounting a tire as you stated. It is the pressure required to obtain the tire's max load rating. That is not to say that it is always the best when under the max load. It is what it is and not what you stated. I simply pointed that out. Learn and move on OK?

I made no comment on the merit or lack thereof in reference to your recomended tire pressure. Why do you feel the need to defend it in a reply to my comment?
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:19 AM   #49713
Xplorr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
But when the top of the chain goes around the CS sprocket the top then becomes the bottom and contacts the lower guide right in the front of the swingarm.
I assume you are referring to the lower chain roller?

Quote:
When looking at the chain as it sits on top of the swingarm the top of the plates will always have more wear.
Absolutely. Not having dealt with the issue to this extent on previous bikes, I just wanted to make sure I'm doing all I can extend the chain life. Thanks for the pics and the input. matt
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:05 PM   #49714
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Here are a couple pics of my DID 520 O-ring chain off my YZ250. The chain is up there in hours but still has life left. There is very little play between the links and the side plates are more worn than the OP pics. And notice the groves in the chain guide.
Interesting. I've not seen many chains worn that way without some metal to metal contact. Perhaps that is the competition chain DID offers? My '07 WR250F also runs a 520 O-ring chain (stock), and the original is still on there. The links look normal ... no flattening down at all.

BTW, the thing you describe as a "chain guide" in your pics ... is not a chain guide. It's the rubber strip that wraps all the way round the forward part of the swing arm and extends about half way down. (forgot "official" name for this part) They ALL get grooves in them like yours. They serve two purposes ... they protect swing arm and they quiet things when chain "whaps" up and down at certain RPM and loads. (normal).

The chain guide (on the DR650) is that white plastic thing just below the rear sprocket. It has a replaceable wear block ... as does the one on my WR250F. Take it apart to see how this works.

Can't imagine what has worn your chain link plates so flat. Maybe it's the metal aftermarket chain guard (a good thing) you've got around your countershaft sprocket? Rubbing?

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 06-02-2011 at 12:19 PM
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:24 PM   #49715
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldomike View Post
Wow...the PO of my bike said that spring was on it when he bought it and it was way to stiff...ya think !
Mike,
Jesse at Kientech sells Eibach springs ... he may be able to help.
http://www.kientech.com/

I had a 7.6 kg. spring (now sold) on my shock. (bought from Jesse)
Could your spring be an 8.0 kg. spring? That would be correct for someone over 250 lbs. or going 2 up with luggage. But a spring that heavy would need upgraded rebound damping to handle that heavy of a spring. Make sense?
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:30 PM   #49716
bkoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorr View Post
I assume you are referring to the lower chain roller?

Absolutely. Not having dealt with the issue to this extent on previous bikes, I just wanted to make sure I'm doing all I can extend the chain life. Thanks for the pics and the input. matt
The roller and the guide in front of the rear sprocket.
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:45 PM   #49717
eldomike
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Yeah that makes sense...just trying to figure it out so I could offer it up to the "heavy" DR650 owners

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Mike,
Jesse at Kientech sells Eibach springs ... he may be able to help.
http://www.kientech.com/

I had a 7.6 kg. spring (now sold) on my shock. (bought from Jesse)
Could your spring be an 8.0 kg. spring? That would be correct for someone over 250 lbs. or going 2 up with luggage. But a spring that heavy would need upgraded rebound damping to handle that heavy of a spring. Make sense?
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:54 PM   #49718
bkoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Interesting. I've not seen many chains worn that way without some metal to metal contact. Perhaps that is the competition chain DID offers? My '07 WR250F also runs a 520 O-ring chain (stock), and the original is still on there. The links look normal ... no flattening down at all.
I don't know the wear seems very normal to me, especially on higher power dirt bikes. I had a stack of old chains worn like that but justed tossed them. I ride in a lot of wet sand and clay, could be part of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
BTW, the thing you describe as a "chain guide" in your pics ... is not a chain guide. It's the rubber strip that wraps all the way round the forward part of the swing arm and extends about half way down. (forgot "official" name for this part) They ALL get grooves in them like yours. They serve two purposes ... they protect swing arm and they quiet things when chain "whaps" up and down at certain RPM and loads. (normal).

The chain guide (on the DR650) is that white plastic thing just below the rear sprocket. It has a replaceable wear block ... as does the one on my WR250F. Take it apart to see how this works.
Yup, I know just could think of the proper name. Have you siliconed the swing arm protector (we'll call it swing arm protector for now) to you swing arm on your WR? On higher hour Yamaha's the plastic will rub into the swingarm, making deep grooves. The silicone protects the aluminum. You can just see the silicone in the pic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Can't imagine what has worn your chain link plates so flat. Maybe it's the metal aftermarket chain guard (a good thing) you've got around your countershaft sprocket? Rubbing?
I don't think anything magical other than normal friction has worn the chain. Like I said it is high hours. When you look at the chain line of the YZ there a lot points where friction occours. Add in dirt and something has to give. People find it hard to believe that plastic can wear metal out but it happens all the time. Just recently I got a service call to a dozer with the complaint that hydraulic oil was spraying out of the fire suppression lines. Well over a period of time a low pressure rubber coat fire suppression line had rubbed into a high pressure steel hydraulic tube. There was a hole in both the fire suppression hose and the steel tube and whenever the operated worked the controls that dozer turned into a sprinkler, what a mess. And that chain guard is stock Yamaha and your WR should have it to. Remove the crap plastic cover and the metal plate is in behind it. Install shorter bolts and voila. I never liked the big plastic guard. Mud will really pack in there and can cause havoc with the CS sprocket seal. And there is always the old timer stories of the mud buildup knocking the master link clip off. But I am not sure about there being any truth to that.

bkoz screwed with this post 06-02-2011 at 01:01 PM
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:22 PM   #49719
John E
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How practical...?

would it be to carry a larger front sprocket and then change it over when on a ride that involved both freeway as well as dirt road riding?

I know folks who ride a lot on one or the other setup their sprocket/chain rings to suit the roads but what about doing both?

Still working on my busnride on the DR, work, life and a death in the family have interfered with my plans.

Hoping to get it home in mid June...hoping...
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Old 06-02-2011, 04:40 PM   #49720
cemory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John E View Post
would it be to carry a larger front sprocket and then change it over when on a ride that involved both freeway as well as dirt road riding?

I know folks who ride a lot on one or the other setup their sprocket/chain rings to suit the roads but what about doing both?

Still working on my busnride on the DR, work, life and a death in the family have interfered with my plans.

Hoping to get it home in mid June...hoping...

I swap out between my 14 and 16 tooth cs sprockets all the time, once I get out the axle nut wrench it only takes about 10 minutes start to finish. I use the large circlip to hold the sprocket on. Loosen axle, slide wheel forward, swap cs sprocket, slide wheel back/adjust proper chain tension, align wheel and tighten axle. GO RIDE ;-)

Chris
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:04 PM   #49721
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
Like I said, you are wrong about the meaning of max inflation as listed on the sidewall. It is NOT the max pressure for mounting a tire as you stated. It is the pressure required to obtain the tire's max load rating. That is not to say that it is always the best when under the max load. It is what it is and not what you stated. I simply pointed that out. Learn and move on OK?

I made no comment on the merit or lack thereof in reference to your recomended tire pressure. Why do you feel the need to defend it in a reply to my comment?
Sorry, I worded my first post poorly. Meant that the only time a motorcycle tire is USUALLY at max psi is to seat the bead... And I defend because I can!

No worries..

Lets see what I can F-up next! Anyone got an anvil?
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:01 PM   #49722
Stromdog
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TKC 80 tire pressure

I tried the search function, but couldn't find an answer. What tire pressure should I be running? I'm 190# and will be running with about 40# more gear on a camping trip to AR, next week. It'll be mostly two lane paved riding, as a couple of friends I'll be meeting have road bikes. I'll jump off on gravel roads, once in a while when I can, but mostly paved stuff this trip. I've been running 28# front and 30# rear for around town riding, but I haven't put any sustained high speed, paved road miles on these tires yet. I know these aren't the best tires for 95%+ pavement, but I like the tires and that's what's on the bike.

Will these tires run OK at the above pressures or should I go with something else? The main concern is heat at sustained 65-70 mph speeds.

Thanks, in advance, for any advice!
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:02 PM   #49723
enduro scissorhands
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need a new part




Well you can see what happened here in a slow speed crash.. There was a snake in the middle of the road around a tight corner on gravel, hit the front brake a little to much and washed the front end out. Than I find myself lying down next to the snake. Anyways there is a hairline crack and it drips a little oil. I figured a little jb weld might fix it for now, but I'm wondering if I should replace the entire part. Any ideas on where I can find a replacement part? And what exactly is this part called? Any help is much appreciated. Also I'm kind of bummed about how the Pat Walsh skid plate didn't really protect as much as I would have wanted. Any ideas on a better solution? I'm definitely going to have to invest in those stainless covers that glue on.
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:12 PM   #49724
Recon!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Yup, I know just could think of the proper name. Have you siliconed the swing arm protector (we'll call it swing arm protector for now)
It's called a CHAIN SLIDER, and it protects the swing arm from the chain.

Bottom right in the drivetrain section:
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#drivetrain
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:38 PM   #49725
TrophyHunter
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Did the plate bend up into the left side case? I'd send PWD the pic and an explanation of the crash and see what they say. Seems pretty odd for it to bend that much.

As far as a replacement side case, I'd check ebay or DRRiders.com as there was a guy parting a DR there recently.
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