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Old 06-02-2011, 06:39 PM   #49711
smilin jack
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Location: Lebanon Oregon
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Fix the oil leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by enduro scissorhands View Post



Well you can see what happened here in a slow speed crash.. There was a snake in the middle of the road around a tight corner on gravel, hit the front brake a little to much and washed the front end out. Than I find myself lying down next to the snake. Anyways there is a hairline crack and it drips a little oil. I figured a little jb weld might fix it for now, but I'm wondering if I should replace the entire part. Any ideas on where I can find a replacement part? And what exactly is this part called? Any help is much appreciated. Also I'm kind of bummed about how the Pat Walsh skid plate didn't really protect as much as I would have wanted. Any ideas on a better solution? I'm definitely going to have to invest in those stainless covers that glue on.
If you look on bikebandit.com and other motorcycle parts places, they have parts listed with prices... to order parts.

Looks like you can use your big crescent hammer (adjustable wrench) to pry the skid plate back to normal position and use some brake cleaner to get the oil off the engine case. Then put the JB Weld on to seal up the leak. It could be considered a permanent fix. It all depends if the bike is for show or riding.

Did the snake get away unharmed?

Dave
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:15 PM   #49712
M Singer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Sorry, I worded my first post poorly. Meant that the only time a motorcycle tire is USUALLY at max psi is to seat the bead... And I defend because I can!

No worries..

Lets see what I can F-up next! Anyone got an anvil?
I don't agree with that either. I have been installing my own tires for years and never once have I even come close to max psig when seating a bead. In fact it rarely takes more then 10 psig to seat the bead on a dual sport tires at least the ones that i have used anyway.

Even the tubeless tires that on my FZ1 rarely take much more the 15 psig to seat the bead and I do run max psig in the rear. Both Yamaha and the tire manufacturer recommend max pressure (42 psig) for my weight on the rear tire. I know that tire pressure is a bit of a gray area and people's opinions vary on it.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:29 PM   #49713
M Singer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
If you look on bikebandit.com and other motorcycle parts places, they have parts listed with prices... to order parts.

Looks like you can use your big crescent hammer (adjustable wrench) to pry the skid plate back to normal position and use some brake cleaner to get the oil off the engine case. Then put the JB Weld on to seal up the leak. It could be considered a permanent fix. It all depends if the bike is for show or riding.

Did the snake get away unharmed?

Dave
That's what I'd do.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:41 PM   #49714
enduro scissorhands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
If you look on bikebandit.com and other motorcycle parts places, they have parts listed with prices... to order parts.

Looks like you can use your big crescent hammer (adjustable wrench) to pry the skid plate back to normal position and use some brake cleaner to get the oil off the engine case. Then put the JB Weld on to seal up the leak. It could be considered a permanent fix. It all depends if the bike is for show or riding.

Did the snake get away unharmed?

Dave
yea the snake took a look at me and slithered away from me slowly.. i already put some jb weld on there and shes looking better. ill try to pry that bent piece back. thanks for the tips.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:49 PM   #49715
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John E View Post
would it be to carry a larger front sprocket and then change it over when on a ride that involved both freeway as well as dirt road riding?

I know folks who ride a lot on one or the other setup their sprocket/chain rings to suit the roads but what about doing both?

Still working on my busnride on the DR, work, life and a death in the family have interfered with my plans.

Hoping to get it home in mid June...hoping...
Very easy if your chain length is set to suit larger sprocket. I just ground down the original retainer and the swap from 15 to 14 and visa versa takes about 10 minutes by the time you loosen the rear axle to slide the wheel forward to get the chain off the front sprocket. I did this recently on a long trip. had 15T on but felt it was lugging a bit much, so I swapped over to 14T and found it too 'buzzy', so pulled up and swapped it back on the side of the road.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:53 PM   #49716
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
I don't agree with that either. I have been installing my own tires for years and never once have I even come close to max psig when seating a bead. In fact it rarely takes more then 10 psig to seat the bead on a dual sport tires at least the ones that i have used anyway.

Even the tubeless tires that on my FZ1 rarely take much more the 15 psig to seat the bead and I do run max psig in the rear. Both Yamaha and the tire manufacturer recommend max pressure (42 psig) for my weight on the rear tire. I know that tire pressure is a bit of a gray area and people's opinions vary on it.
Do you have a DR650?

I've gone to 60psi a few times to try and seat the rear bead.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:07 PM   #49717
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Do you have a DR650?

I've gone to 60psi a few times to try and seat the rear bead.
Same here. Very common with big dual sport tires. (like a 130/17) Oddly, street tubeless tires seat more easily.

Dirt and dual sport tires need more pressure and dish soap. I've gone over 60 PSI ... even blew up a tube once. DOH!! Tubeless tires (with tube of course) seem toughest to seat 100%.

On the trail I've ridden miles and miles with only a partially seated bead after a flat repair. No worries .... but you do feel it on pavement. On dirt you generally won't feel much. Hard to seat the bead with a bicycle pump or CO-2 cartridges.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:23 PM   #49718
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Very easy if your chain length is set to suit larger sprocket. I just ground down the original retainer and the swap from 15 to 14 and visa versa takes about 10 minutes by the time you loosen the rear axle to slide the wheel forward to get the chain off the front sprocket. I did this recently on a long trip. had 15T on but felt it was lugging a bit much, so I swapped over to 14T and found it too 'buzzy', so pulled up and swapped it back on the side of the road.
Ditto!
Many DR650 riders here swap front sprockets routinely while en route. No big deal at all ... and if you're technique is right, the 14 to 15 swap ... or vice versa, you need not loosen axle nut. It can all be done in place ... unless the chain is adjusted too tight.

I also ground down my retainer plate ... and carry some Blue Loc-tite for the 3 bolts ... and don't over tighten them.

BTW, resist the temptation to put on a 16 tooth sprocket because you think it will help on long highway stretches. It really does not help. The stock gearing on the DR is ideal for cruising at 75 to 80 mph indicated. This equates to about 70 to 75 mph actual. The higher gearing of the 16T means you'll be twisting more, thus using more fuel. I hated it in any sort of mountainous areas. You could try this ... see what you think. But the DR likes to be revving just a bit higher for max efficiency/smoothness. Even the 14T on highway is not bad.

The 14 T sprocket makes only a slight difference off road but it does help some and makes slow going in 1st gear slightly easier in slow, technical going.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:41 PM   #49719
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jet123 View Post
Folks,

Trying to get at my NSU screws...


I cannot get the clutch release arm off the clutch release pinion. The bolt tightening the clutch release arm is loose. The clutch release arm slides 'up' the clutch release pinion a bit - enough so that the clutch release arm is flush with the top of the clutch release pinion, but no further. I did try gently spreading the clutch release arm with a flat screwdriver, but the (small) amount of force I used made only made a small difference (this spreading got the arm to be flush with the pinion).

Thoughts on how to remove the clutch release arm? I was going to use a small amount of penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench).

Clutch cover...

It seems to be slightly loose all the way around when I grab those molded-in tabs. But it almost feels as if something inside is hanging up on the clutch cover. It does not appear to be the not-yet-removed clutch release arm / clutch release pinion issue I discussed above.

I tried gently tapping it with a rubber mallet, but no difference.

Thanks in advance!
You need to remove the bolt completely as it holds the arm in a groove on the shaft. It still may be tight but get a screwdriver in the split and prize it open a bit. It'll slip off quicker than grannies undies.
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kezzajohnson screwed with this post 06-02-2011 at 10:49 PM
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:39 PM   #49720
jenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
It'll slip off quicker that grannies undies.
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:47 PM   #49721
jenx
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Jet ...

Kezza is spot on. Not sure about grannie's undies tho

Remove that little screw and slip the arm off the splines. Also use the mallet on the cover and wiggle that baby loose. You may even be able to re-use the gasket. Mine was cemented onto the cover face. So I bought another and oiled it so it'll come off nice 'n easy next time.

Finally ... make note of the different screw lengths on the cover!!
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:07 AM   #49722
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
It is a clunky box for sure. Your neutral noise is mostly likely just a noisy gear. Will it fail? I seriously doubt it. Try a different oil. I like synthetic.
Shift slow, especially from 1st to 2nd.
For the first time, I gotta disagree with ya. I say, shift fast and positive, i.e., with a firm - but not overly hard - toe under the shift lever, from first to second gear. I believe lazy shifts into second are the cause of much premature wear on the engagement dogs of second gear, especially when the rider lets the rpms drop too far. The DR transmission does not like the engine revs to drop to idle between upshifts.

I manage the rpms between shifts both up and down, and at least on my '09 with 10k miles on the odo, I find the transmission to very acceptable and not at all "clunky" unless I mismanage the engine rpm. I feel for the guys here complaining of their transmissions, but also wonder if they know how to properly manage the shifting.

I have experience with owning over 20 bikes from all the Japanese builders plus Harley and Triumph, including road bikes and dirt bikes. The DR shifts as well as my KLR, Valkyrie and ZX-10. Well, maybe just a little less than the ZX.

Match the engine rpms to the gear you are shifting into and life will be much better.

Lex
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:30 AM   #49723
ladeda
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Sprockets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Ditto!
Many DR650 riders here swap front sprockets routinely while en route. No big deal at all ... and if you're technique is right, the 14 to 15 swap ... or vice versa, you need not loosen axle nut. It can all be done in place ... unless the chain is adjusted too tight.

I also ground down my retainer plate ... and carry some Blue Loc-tite for the 3 bolts ... and don't over tighten them.

BTW, resist the temptation to put on a 16 tooth sprocket because you think it will help on long highway stretches. It really does not help. The stock gearing on the DR is ideal for cruising at 75 to 80 mph indicated. This equates to about 70 to 75 mph actual. The higher gearing of the 16T means you'll be twisting more, thus using more fuel. I hated it in any sort of mountainous areas. You could try this ... see what you think. But the DR likes to be revving just a bit higher for max efficiency/smoothness. Even the 14T on highway is not bad.

The 14 T sprocket makes only a slight difference off road but it does help some and makes slow going in 1st gear slightly easier in slow, technical going.
I have a dr650, and have loved long highway riding on it, its just perfect, but I agree with others on this thread. When on the dirt, and wanting to go slow, say down hill, tight turn, I didnt feel comfortable. I have bought a size 14 sprocket, as intend to do more dirt riding. Do you think I could have it on the bike all the time? I ride it around town, to work etc, and dont have the patience or mechanical knowledge to be changing it all the time. Also, Could I for instance ride it form Bris to Cairns with the size 14?
ta, Jane.
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:22 AM   #49724
nii
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Excuse my stupidity, I have a question.

Did an oil+filter change yesterday, drained all I could.
Filled 2000ml fresh oil, ran the engine for a while, shut off and the level on the inspection glass reached F (full)
When the engine is on, the level is below L

Q: Do i look at the level with the engine on, or off???

If I fill 2400ml as per the manual the level will be OK with the engine running, and way too high when not running.
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:29 AM   #49725
dirtymartini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordieboy View Post
do you have a dr650?

I've gone to 60psi a few times to try and seat the rear bead.
+1
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