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Old 06-02-2011, 04:40 PM   #49711
cemory
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Topeka, Ks
Oddometer: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by John E View Post
would it be to carry a larger front sprocket and then change it over when on a ride that involved both freeway as well as dirt road riding?

I know folks who ride a lot on one or the other setup their sprocket/chain rings to suit the roads but what about doing both?

Still working on my busnride on the DR, work, life and a death in the family have interfered with my plans.

Hoping to get it home in mid June...hoping...

I swap out between my 14 and 16 tooth cs sprockets all the time, once I get out the axle nut wrench it only takes about 10 minutes start to finish. I use the large circlip to hold the sprocket on. Loosen axle, slide wheel forward, swap cs sprocket, slide wheel back/adjust proper chain tension, align wheel and tighten axle. GO RIDE ;-)

Chris
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:04 PM   #49712
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
Like I said, you are wrong about the meaning of max inflation as listed on the sidewall. It is NOT the max pressure for mounting a tire as you stated. It is the pressure required to obtain the tire's max load rating. That is not to say that it is always the best when under the max load. It is what it is and not what you stated. I simply pointed that out. Learn and move on OK?

I made no comment on the merit or lack thereof in reference to your recomended tire pressure. Why do you feel the need to defend it in a reply to my comment?
Sorry, I worded my first post poorly. Meant that the only time a motorcycle tire is USUALLY at max psi is to seat the bead... And I defend because I can!

No worries..

Lets see what I can F-up next! Anyone got an anvil?
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:01 PM   #49713
Stromdog
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Location: St. Pete, FL
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TKC 80 tire pressure

I tried the search function, but couldn't find an answer. What tire pressure should I be running? I'm 190# and will be running with about 40# more gear on a camping trip to AR, next week. It'll be mostly two lane paved riding, as a couple of friends I'll be meeting have road bikes. I'll jump off on gravel roads, once in a while when I can, but mostly paved stuff this trip. I've been running 28# front and 30# rear for around town riding, but I haven't put any sustained high speed, paved road miles on these tires yet. I know these aren't the best tires for 95%+ pavement, but I like the tires and that's what's on the bike.

Will these tires run OK at the above pressures or should I go with something else? The main concern is heat at sustained 65-70 mph speeds.

Thanks, in advance, for any advice!
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:02 PM   #49714
enduro scissorhands
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Location: Oregon
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need a new part




Well you can see what happened here in a slow speed crash.. There was a snake in the middle of the road around a tight corner on gravel, hit the front brake a little to much and washed the front end out. Than I find myself lying down next to the snake. Anyways there is a hairline crack and it drips a little oil. I figured a little jb weld might fix it for now, but I'm wondering if I should replace the entire part. Any ideas on where I can find a replacement part? And what exactly is this part called? Any help is much appreciated. Also I'm kind of bummed about how the Pat Walsh skid plate didn't really protect as much as I would have wanted. Any ideas on a better solution? I'm definitely going to have to invest in those stainless covers that glue on.
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:12 PM   #49715
Recon!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Yup, I know just could think of the proper name. Have you siliconed the swing arm protector (we'll call it swing arm protector for now)
It's called a CHAIN SLIDER, and it protects the swing arm from the chain.

Bottom right in the drivetrain section:
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#drivetrain
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:38 PM   #49716
TrophyHunter
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Did the plate bend up into the left side case? I'd send PWD the pic and an explanation of the crash and see what they say. Seems pretty odd for it to bend that much.

As far as a replacement side case, I'd check ebay or DRRiders.com as there was a guy parting a DR there recently.
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:48 PM   #49717
enduro scissorhands
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Location: Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Did the plate bend up into the left side case? I'd send PWD the pic and an explanation of the crash and see what they say. Seems pretty odd for it to bend that much.

As far as a replacement side case, I'd check ebay or DRRiders.com as there was a guy parting a DR there recently.

yea the plate bent and almost pierced the case. I will go ahead and email them. I hadn't thought of that. thanks.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #49718
smilin jack
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Fix the oil leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by enduro scissorhands View Post



Well you can see what happened here in a slow speed crash.. There was a snake in the middle of the road around a tight corner on gravel, hit the front brake a little to much and washed the front end out. Than I find myself lying down next to the snake. Anyways there is a hairline crack and it drips a little oil. I figured a little jb weld might fix it for now, but I'm wondering if I should replace the entire part. Any ideas on where I can find a replacement part? And what exactly is this part called? Any help is much appreciated. Also I'm kind of bummed about how the Pat Walsh skid plate didn't really protect as much as I would have wanted. Any ideas on a better solution? I'm definitely going to have to invest in those stainless covers that glue on.
If you look on bikebandit.com and other motorcycle parts places, they have parts listed with prices... to order parts.

Looks like you can use your big crescent hammer (adjustable wrench) to pry the skid plate back to normal position and use some brake cleaner to get the oil off the engine case. Then put the JB Weld on to seal up the leak. It could be considered a permanent fix. It all depends if the bike is for show or riding.

Did the snake get away unharmed?

Dave
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:15 PM   #49719
M Singer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Sorry, I worded my first post poorly. Meant that the only time a motorcycle tire is USUALLY at max psi is to seat the bead... And I defend because I can!

No worries..

Lets see what I can F-up next! Anyone got an anvil?
I don't agree with that either. I have been installing my own tires for years and never once have I even come close to max psig when seating a bead. In fact it rarely takes more then 10 psig to seat the bead on a dual sport tires at least the ones that i have used anyway.

Even the tubeless tires that on my FZ1 rarely take much more the 15 psig to seat the bead and I do run max psig in the rear. Both Yamaha and the tire manufacturer recommend max pressure (42 psig) for my weight on the rear tire. I know that tire pressure is a bit of a gray area and people's opinions vary on it.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:29 PM   #49720
M Singer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
If you look on bikebandit.com and other motorcycle parts places, they have parts listed with prices... to order parts.

Looks like you can use your big crescent hammer (adjustable wrench) to pry the skid plate back to normal position and use some brake cleaner to get the oil off the engine case. Then put the JB Weld on to seal up the leak. It could be considered a permanent fix. It all depends if the bike is for show or riding.

Did the snake get away unharmed?

Dave
That's what I'd do.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:41 PM   #49721
enduro scissorhands
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Oregon
Oddometer: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
If you look on bikebandit.com and other motorcycle parts places, they have parts listed with prices... to order parts.

Looks like you can use your big crescent hammer (adjustable wrench) to pry the skid plate back to normal position and use some brake cleaner to get the oil off the engine case. Then put the JB Weld on to seal up the leak. It could be considered a permanent fix. It all depends if the bike is for show or riding.

Did the snake get away unharmed?

Dave
yea the snake took a look at me and slithered away from me slowly.. i already put some jb weld on there and shes looking better. ill try to pry that bent piece back. thanks for the tips.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:49 PM   #49722
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John E View Post
would it be to carry a larger front sprocket and then change it over when on a ride that involved both freeway as well as dirt road riding?

I know folks who ride a lot on one or the other setup their sprocket/chain rings to suit the roads but what about doing both?

Still working on my busnride on the DR, work, life and a death in the family have interfered with my plans.

Hoping to get it home in mid June...hoping...
Very easy if your chain length is set to suit larger sprocket. I just ground down the original retainer and the swap from 15 to 14 and visa versa takes about 10 minutes by the time you loosen the rear axle to slide the wheel forward to get the chain off the front sprocket. I did this recently on a long trip. had 15T on but felt it was lugging a bit much, so I swapped over to 14T and found it too 'buzzy', so pulled up and swapped it back on the side of the road.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:53 PM   #49723
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Singer View Post
I don't agree with that either. I have been installing my own tires for years and never once have I even come close to max psig when seating a bead. In fact it rarely takes more then 10 psig to seat the bead on a dual sport tires at least the ones that i have used anyway.

Even the tubeless tires that on my FZ1 rarely take much more the 15 psig to seat the bead and I do run max psig in the rear. Both Yamaha and the tire manufacturer recommend max pressure (42 psig) for my weight on the rear tire. I know that tire pressure is a bit of a gray area and people's opinions vary on it.
Do you have a DR650?

I've gone to 60psi a few times to try and seat the rear bead.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:07 PM   #49724
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Do you have a DR650?

I've gone to 60psi a few times to try and seat the rear bead.
Same here. Very common with big dual sport tires. (like a 130/17) Oddly, street tubeless tires seat more easily.

Dirt and dual sport tires need more pressure and dish soap. I've gone over 60 PSI ... even blew up a tube once. DOH!! Tubeless tires (with tube of course) seem toughest to seat 100%.

On the trail I've ridden miles and miles with only a partially seated bead after a flat repair. No worries .... but you do feel it on pavement. On dirt you generally won't feel much. Hard to seat the bead with a bicycle pump or CO-2 cartridges.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:23 PM   #49725
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Very easy if your chain length is set to suit larger sprocket. I just ground down the original retainer and the swap from 15 to 14 and visa versa takes about 10 minutes by the time you loosen the rear axle to slide the wheel forward to get the chain off the front sprocket. I did this recently on a long trip. had 15T on but felt it was lugging a bit much, so I swapped over to 14T and found it too 'buzzy', so pulled up and swapped it back on the side of the road.
Ditto!
Many DR650 riders here swap front sprockets routinely while en route. No big deal at all ... and if you're technique is right, the 14 to 15 swap ... or vice versa, you need not loosen axle nut. It can all be done in place ... unless the chain is adjusted too tight.

I also ground down my retainer plate ... and carry some Blue Loc-tite for the 3 bolts ... and don't over tighten them.

BTW, resist the temptation to put on a 16 tooth sprocket because you think it will help on long highway stretches. It really does not help. The stock gearing on the DR is ideal for cruising at 75 to 80 mph indicated. This equates to about 70 to 75 mph actual. The higher gearing of the 16T means you'll be twisting more, thus using more fuel. I hated it in any sort of mountainous areas. You could try this ... see what you think. But the DR likes to be revving just a bit higher for max efficiency/smoothness. Even the 14T on highway is not bad.

The 14 T sprocket makes only a slight difference off road but it does help some and makes slow going in 1st gear slightly easier in slow, technical going.
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