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Old 06-27-2011, 03:21 PM   #50866
carcajou
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Oddometer: 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
same problem here. i was getting 46mpg consistently 2 years ago and it dropped & dropped now in the mid 30s. this is an FCR-MX 39. the last thing i did just last week was adjust the float to 10mm. maybe this is it? i hope the hell so
Perhaps this is a weakening coil issue. I had a similar experience and it turned out the coil was weak and replacement with a new coil remedied the poor gas mileage.
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Old 06-27-2011, 03:42 PM   #50867
bumblebee1
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Location: Ottawa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
Extended fuel screw - Strange result.

So I have this extended fuel screw I picked up from Procycle last week and finally got around to installing it. Well for some reason it does not affect the idle....at all.

I put the factory one back in and if I turn that one in all the way the engine will die just like you would expect.

So I thought well maybe I was just not turning in the extended one far enough (not wanting to hurt the seat). So I put it back in without the spring, washer, and o-ring. Seated it (not to hard) and backed it out 2 turns. Started the bike and started turning it back in until it seated. No change in idle RPM at all

So I'm thinking maybe the factory one and the new one are not the same at the tip and put them side by side on the work bench. Other than the new extended one having more threads on the bottom side, from the top of the threads to the tip they are the same as far as I can tell. And the tips look the same shape to me.

Regarding the idle speed adjustment.....

Although I did try lowering it, I did not change the idle speed setting when I was swaping the two screws during my test.

Any thoughts on why the new extended one does not effect the idle mixture but the old one works as you would expect?

Jon...
I had about the same thing happen to mine.
the procycle screw is out 3/8 of a turn and the bike runs great.
If I remember right, I can stutter the engine of I turn it in all the way.
I will re-install the original and see what happens.
All this time I thought my stock pilot jet was too big but didn't want to play with it right now.
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Old 06-27-2011, 03:42 PM   #50868
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,233
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
I meant to say new remote choke cable from Procycle in my original post (not throttle). I got that covered. Thx
I would check the float and the needle weight for trash or other problems... There is an o-ring under the float and needle weight.. .58" is the float height.

Are you sure the needle is clipped at 4 down from the top leaving two open slots below the e-clip? Is the spacer placed correctly below the shelf in the little recess? Double check your needle, is it layed out right?

When I do a jet kit, I try and start with a good working stock set up. It must be very clean and in proper working condition. That needle and jet setting should be perfect at 2,000 feet MSL. Needle at 4 and the 145 main is what you use with a stock exhaust and cut air box. So, your jetting is not the problem....

If its just a rich loading up bog, its probably the needle or a float issue..
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:20 PM   #50869
19 bikes
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Location: west Michigan
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Baffle in stock muffler?

The stock exhaust on my '97 DR sounds kinda "raspy". I can insert a length of 1/2" TW conduit 17 1/2" into the muffler. I'm wondering if it may have been drilled.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:21 PM   #50870
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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noob question

Noob question from a noob... Whats the small screw here do? It clicks and turns in and out, as if its an adjustment of some sorts...
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:35 PM   #50871
thumpididump
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That's the compression damping adjustment screw. Crank it in to increase damping when the shock is being compressed. There is no rebound damping adjustment.

If you weigh over 175 lbs, just turn it in all the way, or close to it.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:49 PM   #50872
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19 bikes View Post
The stock exhaust on my '97 DR sounds kinda "raspy". I can insert a length of 1/2" TW conduit 17 1/2" into the muffler. I'm wondering if it may have been drilled.
Your hunch is correct, my stock pipe has a solid disk, 4-3/8" in. Now, I'd mention that although it's stamped US Forest Approved Spark Arrestor (or there-a-bouts), if a ranger sticks a rod in there, you might be screwed.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:40 PM   #50873
Aerocycle
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Nice Ride...

Over the weekend, I got a chance to do a little camping and riding the DR up some logging roads. It was lots of fun, just was a bit "squirrely" with the trail tires on the gravel.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:49 PM   #50874
gazzerwgtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
Extended fuel screw - Strange result.

So I have this extended fuel screw I picked up from Procycle last week and finally got around to installing it. Well for some reason it does not affect the idle....at all.

I put the factory one back in and if I turn that one in all the way the engine will die just like you would expect.

So I thought well maybe I was just not turning in the extended one far enough (not wanting to hurt the seat). So I put it back in without the spring, washer, and o-ring. Seated it (not to hard) and backed it out 2 turns. Started the bike and started turning it back in until it seated. No change in idle RPM at all

So I'm thinking maybe the factory one and the new one are not the same at the tip and put them side by side on the work bench. Other than the new extended one having more threads on the bottom side, from the top of the threads to the tip they are the same as far as I can tell. And the tips look the same shape to me.

Regarding the idle speed adjustment.....

Although I did try lowering it, I did not change the idle speed setting when I was swaping the two screws during my test.

Any thoughts on why the new extended one does not effect the idle mixture but the old one works as you would expect?

Jon...
Same thing happened to me, not sure why?
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:10 AM   #50875
vintagespeed
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
...If you weigh over 175 lbs, just turn it in all the way, or close to it.
not sure where this advice comes from exactly? i weigh 185 and when i bought my bike it was all the way in, brake dive was horrible as was squirmy on-road manners.

bottom the screw out carefully and run it back out 8 turns. that's the factory setting (IIRC) adjust from there. i run mine 2 clicks in for twisties and 1 click in for normal street.

for the trail play with the settings.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:36 AM   #50876
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
not sure where this advice comes from exactly? i weigh 185 and when i bought my bike it was all the way in, brake dive was horrible as was squirmy on-road manners.

bottom the screw out carefully and run it back out 8 turns. that's the factory setting (IIRC) adjust from there. i run mine 2 clicks in for twisties and 1 click in for normal street.

for the trail play with the settings.
8 turns = 16 clicks.

Manual says stock setting is 8 clicks out.

Actually, I just checked and it says "8 clicks turns out", so that's clarified the issue. ;)
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:46 AM   #50877
thumpididump
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Most people will agree that if you're 150 lbs or less, then the stock shock isn't so bad (in terms of spring rate, at least). At the same time, everyone agrees that the shock is grossly under-damped. And the lack of rebound adjustment doesn't help.

Anyone over ~ 180 lbs or so has surely considered re-valving the shock to improve damping and replacing the spring with something a little stiffer. Yes, setting the adjustment screw to 8 turns (or whatever the factory setting is) is a good starting point for many but most people will end up with the screw all the way in when they're finished, or very close.



Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
not sure where this advice comes from exactly? i weigh 185 and when i bought my bike it was all the way in, brake dive was horrible as was squirmy on-road manners.

bottom the screw out carefully and run it back out 8 turns. that's the factory setting (IIRC) adjust from there. i run mine 2 clicks in for twisties and 1 click in for normal street.

for the trail play with the settings.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:48 AM   #50878
silverwolf
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Played with my carburator more last night. None of the tubes are kinked and the boots are on tight but I still get a bad bog. I tried raising the e clip (lowering the needle) to the 3rd notch instead of 4th but still get the bad bog. The e clip is setting down under the shelf and the d shapped washer is also in line with the shelf. I played with the fuel screw and it will kill idle when turned all the way in. Its out at about 1 1/2 turns right now but surely that adjustment wouldn't cause this kind of bog. I've taken out the filter in the inlet to the carb to make sure that wasn't it. I'm sure I've screwed something up but I just can't figure out what.

2009 DR650, procycle jet kit, stock exhaust, cut airbox, 145 main.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:07 AM   #50879
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04MoonBeemer View Post
Perhaps this is a weakening coil issue. I had a similar experience and it turned out the coil was weak and replacement with a new coil remedied the poor gas mileage.
hmmm something to check, thanks
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:33 AM   #50880
jenx
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Silverwolf - also check that the little vacuum tube running from the top of your carb isn't dipping into the airbox. Also ensure it's out of the airstream. I tucked mine behind the side cover.

As noted by others - check the float. Make sure your boots are all seated properly. Check also that the slide is ok.

Maybe do a teardown and reinstall.

You'll get it dialed in.
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