the DR650 thread

[FCPB]

Yeah, I figured... Will have to see what's what when I get home from work tonight.

But, out of curiosity, where's this 'flea market' you speak of? I looked around and couldn't find it, I'm still a little confused in terms of the organization of this thing

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

If you don't have all the parts and pieces it won't go back completely.
You might consider buying a new assembly. I found a spare here on Flea Market for $10. Guys part out DR's all the time.

Or buy the new Suzuki part. Babbit's sell it for $66.
Most times these switches hold up pretty well. A shot of WD-40 once in a while (especially in rain) will keep things good for years.

[doug s.]

Originally Posted by FCPB

Yeah, I figured... Will have to see what's what when I get home from work tonight.

But, out of curiosity, where's this 'flea market' you speak of? I looked around and couldn't find it, I'm still a little confused in terms of the organization of this thing

http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14

hth,

doug s.

[FCPB]

ah, thanks! now let me bookmark that before i lose it...

Originally Posted by doug s.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14

hth,

doug s.

[dirtymartini]

Originally Posted by FCPB

ah, thanks! now let me bookmark that before i lose it...

Step away from the mouse!!!!Don't go there You will spend all of your money there

[evilman]

The manual is pretty confusing on how to position the rings on the piston before inserting it into the cylinder.

Can anyone tell me how?
gabe

[acesandeights]

Is there a significant difference between:

Ricor Intimators/Ricor complete rear shock assembly
Race Tech Emulators/Gold Valve
Cogent rear shock rebuild

Is there reason (pros/cons) to choose one over the other...or consider others still for a relatively aggressive novice rider?

[asrvivor]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

Is there a significant difference between:

Ricor Intimators/Ricor complete rear shock assembly
Race Tech Emulators/Gold Valve
Cogent rear shock rebuild

Is there reason (pros/cons) to choose one over the other...or consider others still for a relatively aggressive novice rider?

Go see Sasquatch in Eagle, ID. He will have the work done on the best rebuild you could ever want in less than one day. And you can nap in his shop while he does it. Or watch (whatever you like). Good price I think too.

http://sasquatchrider.com/

[acesandeights]

Huh, I thought he did a Race Tech Gold Valve kit. Can’t someone do that themselves? Does he do something different?

[asrvivor]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

Huh, I thought he did a Race Tech Gold Valve kit. Can’t someone do that themselves? Does he do something different?

Well he did my front and rear, I couldn't tell you what he put in. He did look at little washers for like an hour, talking to himself, while looking at me and my gear. I can only state the perfection at which this bike rocks bumps, boulders, dirt, street and anything in between. He nailed it, and I was on advice from someone else to let him try. The price was about $150 over cost for shit he bought, I saw his recipets most of them. Worth it and worth the great Labor day weekend I had camping after he was done. 2 days in the wallowa whitman forest on said bumps and stuff. Really the most I got out of it was how much a good suspension really makes a difference. It was kinda like the bike had a mind of it's own on some of the terrain and just went where it should. Even large jump to other side stuff (ya now the water boardy things), seems large to me. It just came back to square, very little bounce and just made it more fun. Do something to your suspension. STOCK SUCKS

[silverwolf]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

Is there a significant difference between:

Ricor Intimators/Ricor complete rear shock assembly
Race Tech Emulators/Gold Valve
Cogent rear shock rebuild

Is there reason (pros/cons) to choose one over the other...or consider others still for a relatively aggressive novice rider?

Suspension is probably about like tires. Everybody has their own opinions. I live real close to Rick of Cogent and got him to do my rear shock. I haven't done the emulators yet but will when I get the cash. Anything you do will be a significant improvement. Ricor uses a little different type of valving that is supposed to be more speed sensitive and some say is better on the street. The emulators are better offroad in my opinion as they give a more flexibility and a little more cush ride for lack of a way to explain it. Best advice is either try them on somebody elses bike if you can or call the companies and get their explanation. Putting cogent's rear shock on my was about like adding traction control. It's amazing the difference it made in how the tire hooks up in the loose stuff and washboards we have around here.

[EvanADV]

Originally Posted by evilman

The manual is pretty confusing on how to position the rings on the piston before inserting it into the cylinder.

Can anyone tell me how?
gabe

I was told to rotate them so the notches didn't line up with each other and if you line them all up you'll loose compression.

I just rotated them an inch or two to alternate them.

[thumpididump]

Originally Posted by Motodeficient

I just replaced the leaking gasket on my CCT. I did retract the CCT rod before I reinstalled it, but I did not set the motor to TDC... If you retract the rod before reinstalling it, why do you need the motor at TDC? Won't the automatic tensioner apply the same, correct amount of tension that was there when it was removed?

Originally Posted by procycle

Often, when you shut off the motor it will stop with a valve partially open The open valve puts valve spring pressure on a cam lobe. That valve spring is trying to rotate the motor by pushing on the cam lobe but it's not strong enough to make anything move. If the cam chain tensioner is removed at that point the valve spring could push the cam enough to skip a tooth or three on the cam chain. This whole scenario isn't as likely with the DR motor as it is with dual overhead cam motors but it could happen. It's just good safe practice to position the motor correctly before taking things apart.

+1

When I first began taking engines apart as a young teenager, my friend's father (who had decades of experience building engines) drilled the TDC rule into my brain: whenever you're going to tear into an engine, just put the damn thing at TDC... it will usually avoid a whole mess of headaches and it will ease the pressure on your wallet.

[ADV8]

TDC on the compression stroke.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by FCPB

Yeah, I figured... Will have to see what's what when I get home from work tonight.

But, out of curiosity, where's this 'flea market' you speak of? I looked around and couldn't find it, I'm still a little confused in terms of the organization of this thing

No worries. Go to the Flea Market forum ... it's on the front page of ADV Rider. Click on Flea Market. Now click on parts.
Use the search box on the top right .... type in DR650. It's that simple.

[evilman]

Originally Posted by c2c4c

I was told to rotate them so the notches didn't line up with each other and if you line them all up you'll loose compression.

I just rotated them an inch or two to alternate them.

So just to put the upper two rings an inch or two apart? Does it matter where they facing?

Here is from the service manual, i just don't get it.