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Old 09-09-2011, 07:05 PM   #54241
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck View Post
Does anyone have a brand / product name for the high temp silicone they used to glue their Procycle engine case guards on with? Having a bit of strife finding one to do it. And how did you clamp them while they dried? I'm not sure if the masking tape idea will be enough. Or maybe it is?
many thanks,
Dan
My guards have been on for over 15,000 miles now. I just used a tube of clear 100% Silicone door and window caulk and put it on thick, smoothing the excess off with a wet rag and my fingers. I held it in place over night with masking tape. You don't need any special caulk etc..

I also have the AMP oil filter cover siliconed on.... Works fine. Like the others said, put it on with a generous amount of sealant or caulk. Just "snug" the suckers on gently and hold them in position with tape. You do not want to squeeze the cushion space out. The caulk thickness effects the amount of "cushion"...
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:08 PM   #54242
BergDonk
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FWIW
F Clamp - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-clamp
C Clamp - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C-clamp
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:27 PM   #54243
danbeck
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Thumb Guards

Many thanks for the info everyone. I'll grab some permatex and glue them on this afternoon. Not much left to do on the bike now, as I've decided not to mess with the engine/ carb exhaust. Well not yet anyway
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:11 PM   #54244
SprintST
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A little confusion on the Permatex web site

When I was about to put my guards on I was leery about using the wrong product and returned a tube of the Red High Temp Silicone Gasket Maker #27B I had purchased. Was concerned for some reason that if it was the wrong product and I had to remove it that it would be a freakin' mess. Permatex seems to produce several Red High Temp RTV silicone products.

#27B is listed as a gasket maker. http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...one_Gasket.htm

#26B is listed as a gasket. http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...one_Gasket.htm

#26BR is listed as a Silicone Gasket but I have a tube sitting in front of me this very moment and it reads "Red High Temp Silicone Adhesive Sealant".

26BR is what I used and it turned out beautifully. I just used the same blue painters tape as MotoDavid. Once it gets stuck on it doesn't budge much. The tape in just insurance. Next time the oil gets changed the AMP cover will get the same treatment, even though I probably won't need it with the new TCI skid plate that will be arriving soon :)
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:21 PM   #54245
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
It does not have to be high temp.
If you punch or cut a few small rubber discs and silicone those to the engine cover first you will get a uniform thickness... fwiw.
Right. It doesn't have to be hi-temp. The reason we recommend the hi-temp stuff is in my experience it sticks better and is significantly stronger than the plain stuff. That said, the plain stuff will be perfectly adequate
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:24 PM   #54246
SprintST
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Yup, I feel a little foolish now having run all over town for the one that said "Adhesive Sealant"
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:00 PM   #54247
ER70S-2
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Pics Added

For those interested, I added pics to my "I had 3 flats today" thread (for the voyeurs) and some comments. Including the use of 3 tire irons to break the bead.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720492
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:42 PM   #54248
Thanas
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A technique i,ve also used on my previous bike when changing tires when breaking the bead.

Cut the tire along the length, all around, so you end up with a left and right side. Put one half over the other. Put the wheel on the ground, get a shovel en stick that along the rim edge. Jump on the shovel. POP.









Cutting the tire you need a VERY sharp knife and a very used tire. Off course i would not recommend this if you are planning on just installing a new tube, hehe.

Greets,
Thanas
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:52 PM   #54249
ADV8
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Is that a TL1000 rear wheel ? (TLS perhaps)


Quote:
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Old 09-10-2011, 12:20 AM   #54250
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
A technique i,ve also used on my previous bike when changing tires when breaking the bead.

Cut the tire along the length, all around, so you end up with a left and right side. Put one half over the other. Put the wheel on the ground, get a shovel en stick that along the rim edge. Jump on the shovel. POP.
Also stuffs the tube
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:59 AM   #54251
Thanas
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Indeed a rear wheel of a TL 1000 S. Replacing that tire was easy peasy.

I might just replace my tubes every time i change tires. And keep the old one for emergency. It's not neccesary to replace the tube every time, but what the heck. Is also a lot easier when you have to take the old tire off, without having to think about keeping the tube intact.

The tires i have now are Heidenau K60 Scout
90/90-21 & 130/80-17
Including tubes and rimbands
For 185 euro on my doorstep (250 dollars) For me that is a very good deal. For the same money i would get a 180/55-17 Continental RoadAttack for my Ducati ST2, which has been sold 2 years back. So 2 tires and tubes for that money. Perfect.

Our bike group has some very different bike.

Husqvarna TE 610 with SM wheels
Yamaha TT-R 600 with SM wheels (he previously had a DR800)
Suzuki DR 650 SE (mine, one day to have SM wheels?)
Suzuki TL 1000 S
Yamaha FZ-6
Yamaha Thundercat 600
Aprilia SL 1000 Falco

Always fun to ride with friends.

Greets,
Thanas
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Old 09-10-2011, 02:57 AM   #54252
MarlboroMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck View Post
Here ya go!
Took 10minutes, including running down town to grab some blue loctite. Didn't bolt the Rotopax plate on, will put it when I need it (sooner rather than later I hope) but it looks very easy as well. Very happy with the quality of both the bags and racks, looks like they will take some punishment.
Hey bro,do you have problem with the IMS tank fuel cap? Mine leak badly when riding off road.Anyway nice tank decal you have there.Mine locally done but its ruin when the fuel leak over it!!
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:58 AM   #54253
eRRmmm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
A technique i,ve also used on my previous bike when changing tires when breaking the bead.

Cut the tire along the length, all around, so you end up with a left and right side. Put one half over the other. Put the wheel on the ground, get a shovel en stick that along the rim edge. Jump on the shovel. POP.









Cutting the tire you need a VERY sharp knife and a very used tire. Off course i would not recommend this if you are planning on just installing a new tube, hehe.

Greets,
Thanas
Now, please understand that I've had an unknown number of scotch and dry's but...

Why cut the tyre in half? Isn't it quicker and easier just to pull the tyre off the rim on one piece??

But as a side note, if you are cutting a tyre, run a bit of water on the knife to lubricate it, makes it all go much easier. Do the tyre cutting before the scotch drinking though.
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:20 AM   #54254
ungeheuer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
So what was your target AFR?
I didnt have one.

I had three.

Aimed for a rich idle @ around 12.5:1 (delivering between 12.2 and 12.8)
From 1/8th throttle to 3/4 aimed for 13.2:1 (delivering between 13.0 and 13.9)
WOT aimed for 12.8:1 (delivering between 13.0 and 13.5). Could run a little richer @ WOT I reckon.
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:23 AM   #54255
mercenario27
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Is there a thread on radios? what to look? brands?
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