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Old 09-09-2011, 02:07 PM   #54241
badguy
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: almost southern MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
,
still raining here in md...
but, badguy, as you're also in md, you awreddy knew that!
It's a nice day now Gonna ride out and check out all the washed out roads down here...
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:26 PM   #54242
RiDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Permatex spray gasket remover does a great job of softening up old petrified gaskets. Apply it and give it an hour to soak in and do its job.
Careful around that stuff, cover eyes and mouth.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:09 PM   #54243
GISdood
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Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Hey, watch it, some of us like yellow you know.
Amen, brotha!

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Old 09-09-2011, 05:39 PM   #54244
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
My biggest trouble was breaking the bead on the rear tire. Even two large c-clamps couldn't do it. The tire had been on 9 years so I'm hoping the next one is easier.

Any tips for that?
Depends how you were doing it.
If you simply put the clamp over the tyre/tire and wind it in it will in most cases just make the sidewall's touch and the beads can still be stuck fast.

There are various bead breakers on the market and I had looked at them.
In the end I settled for a small F Clamp which would do up to the 150 rear on the SM wheel set.
All I do is use a small piece of timber around 2 inches wide by 5/8 or so and maybe a foot long.
I lay it on the wheel and tie it off to the spokes so it has a overhang beyond the lip of the wheel.
The clamp is put over the tyre with the foot on the sidewall and as close to the rim edge as possible.
The pad of the threaded end is placed on the end of the timber and because it is beyond the rim edge the clamp is not on any angle.
The timber isolates the clamps movement,it can only act on the foot side.
Wind the clamp and the foot draws the tyre in to the point if you wanted it could be pulled right into the dished centre.



The clamp is quite light but I have considered drilling holes in it with a cobalt drill and cutting the end down to the minimum but haven't bothered yet..... if I had my mill and lathe available I would replicate something similar in 7000 series alloy.
Stating the obvious but any solo rides dictate being self efficient.
Fixing punctures needs to be a formality,a PITA but still a easy repair for peace of mind.
The prop stand is no different,a simple alloy tube that holds the front or rear off the ground,simple and robust not to mention cheap as chips.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:40 PM   #54245
shoein
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Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
My little baby on the way back from Unadilla MX.

Sharp bike. I rode in to Unadilla MX to take a look while I was visiting my grandparents in Leonardsville this weekend.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:02 PM   #54246
danbeck
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Case guards.

Does anyone have a brand / product name for the high temp silicone they used to glue their Procycle engine case guards on with? Having a bit of strife finding one to do it. And how did you clamp them while they dried? I'm not sure if the masking tape idea will be enough. Or maybe it is?
many thanks,
Dan
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:08 PM   #54247
motodavid2000
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Location: USA - Florida and Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck View Post
Does anyone have a brand / product name for the high temp silicone they used to glue their Procycle engine case guards on with? Having a bit of strife finding one to do it. And how did you clamp them while they dried? I'm not sure if the masking tape idea will be enough. Or maybe it is?
many thanks,
Dan
Dan -

Here is what I did with mine and shows the brand of RTV silicone. Hope this is helpful for you:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=47

Tape was adequate, as the guards did not move at all after install.

Dave
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:09 PM   #54248
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck View Post
Does anyone have a brand / product name for the high temp silicone they used to glue their Procycle engine case guards on with? Having a bit of strife finding one to do it. And how did you clamp them while they dried? I'm not sure if the masking tape idea will be enough. Or maybe it is?
many thanks,
Dan
this should do it:
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...one_Gasket.htm


doug s.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:24 PM   #54249
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck View Post
Does anyone have a brand / product name for the high temp silicone they used to glue their Procycle engine case guards on with? Having a bit of strife finding one to do it. And how did you clamp them while they dried? I'm not sure if the masking tape idea will be enough. Or maybe it is?
many thanks,
Dan
It does not have to be high temp.
If you punch or cut a few small rubber discs and silicone those to the engine cover first you will get a uniform thickness... fwiw.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:49 PM   #54250
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Depends how you were doing it.
If you simply put the clamp over the tyre/tire and wind it in it will in most cases just make the sidewall's touch and the beads can still be stuck fast.

There are various bead breakers on the market and I had looked at them.
In the end I settled for a small F Clamp which would do up to the 150 rear on the SM wheel set.
All I do is use a small piece of timber around 2 inches wide by 5/8 or so and maybe a foot long.
I lay it on the wheel and tie it off to the spokes so it has a overhang beyond the lip of the wheel.
The clamp is put over the tyre with the foot on the sidewall and as close to the rim edge as possible.
The pad of the threaded end is placed on the end of the timber and because it is beyond the rim edge the clamp is not on any angle.
The timber isolates the clamps movement,it can only act on the foot side.
Wind the clamp and the foot draws the tyre in to the point if you wanted it could be pulled right into the dished centre.



The clamp is quite light but I have considered drilling holes in it with a cobalt drill and cutting the end down to the minimum but haven't bothered yet..... if I had my mill and lathe available I would replicate something similar in 7000 series alloy.
Stating the obvious but any solo rides dictate being self efficient.
Fixing punctures needs to be a formality,a PITA but still a easy repair for peace of mind.
The prop stand is no different,a simple alloy tube that holds the front or rear off the ground,simple and robust not to mention cheap as chips.
Excellent! Great explanation on how to properly use the F clamp. (we call that a C clamp! ) I love the Alu idea ... mine is a steel lump I found at a Flea Market for $6. Heavy and inconvenient ... but as you say ... Peace of mind when solo on the road.
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:05 PM   #54251
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck View Post
Does anyone have a brand / product name for the high temp silicone they used to glue their Procycle engine case guards on with? Having a bit of strife finding one to do it. And how did you clamp them while they dried? I'm not sure if the masking tape idea will be enough. Or maybe it is?
many thanks,
Dan
My guards have been on for over 15,000 miles now. I just used a tube of clear 100% Silicone door and window caulk and put it on thick, smoothing the excess off with a wet rag and my fingers. I held it in place over night with masking tape. You don't need any special caulk etc..

I also have the AMP oil filter cover siliconed on.... Works fine. Like the others said, put it on with a generous amount of sealant or caulk. Just "snug" the suckers on gently and hold them in position with tape. You do not want to squeeze the cushion space out. The caulk thickness effects the amount of "cushion"...
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:08 PM   #54252
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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FWIW
F Clamp - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-clamp
C Clamp - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C-clamp
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:27 PM   #54253
danbeck
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Location: Rockhampton
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Thumb Guards

Many thanks for the info everyone. I'll grab some permatex and glue them on this afternoon. Not much left to do on the bike now, as I've decided not to mess with the engine/ carb exhaust. Well not yet anyway
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:11 PM   #54254
SprintST
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Location: Ottawa Ontario mailing address
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A little confusion on the Permatex web site

When I was about to put my guards on I was leery about using the wrong product and returned a tube of the Red High Temp Silicone Gasket Maker #27B I had purchased. Was concerned for some reason that if it was the wrong product and I had to remove it that it would be a freakin' mess. Permatex seems to produce several Red High Temp RTV silicone products.

#27B is listed as a gasket maker. http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...one_Gasket.htm

#26B is listed as a gasket. http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...one_Gasket.htm

#26BR is listed as a Silicone Gasket but I have a tube sitting in front of me this very moment and it reads "Red High Temp Silicone Adhesive Sealant".

26BR is what I used and it turned out beautifully. I just used the same blue painters tape as MotoDavid. Once it gets stuck on it doesn't budge much. The tape in just insurance. Next time the oil gets changed the AMP cover will get the same treatment, even though I probably won't need it with the new TCI skid plate that will be arriving soon :)
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:21 PM   #54255
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
It does not have to be high temp.
If you punch or cut a few small rubber discs and silicone those to the engine cover first you will get a uniform thickness... fwiw.
Right. It doesn't have to be hi-temp. The reason we recommend the hi-temp stuff is in my experience it sticks better and is significantly stronger than the plain stuff. That said, the plain stuff will be perfectly adequate
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