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Old 09-09-2011, 08:25 AM   #54241
scottbed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
You don't need muscle.
As long as the side wall is in the dish it is a breeze.
That is where a lot go wrong,that and not putting air to inflate the tube a little to avoid pinches.
Not to much that it would hinder the wall going into the dish which in effect increases the diameter of the tyre compared to the rim.
It should be easy,any fighting comes back to the dish.
It also risks tearing of the bead.
My biggest trouble was breaking the bead on the rear tire. Even two large c-clamps couldn't do it. The tire had been on 9 years so I'm hoping the next one is easier.

Any tips for that?
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:34 AM   #54242
kobukan
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Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
. . . i was hoping for maybe a different color, but hopefully it's not yellow.
Hey, watch it, some of us like yellow you know.

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Old 09-09-2011, 08:41 AM   #54243
steve o 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
My biggest trouble was breaking the bead on the rear tire. Even two large c-clamps couldn't do it. The tire had been on 9 years so I'm hoping the next one is easier.

Any tips for that?
I had to take a hacksaw to mine along with pinching it in a vice. Mine was the original tire from 2005 (my bike is an '06).
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:42 AM   #54244
doug s.
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Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I swore I'd never buy a Harley again after "The Factory" refused to do anything about very bad and expensive ($5000 out of my wallet) work done by one of it's dealers, but that new XR1200X really catches my eye. I hate the factory, but love the bikes. Had 15 happy years with my last Sportster, did many miles of dirt roads. Of course, I wouldn't buy another without a DR already in the garage.
yes, the xr1200x is certainly eye candy. as are most all the h-d offerings. but consider - $11.8k list price stock. 573 lbs. lean angle <40deg. 60" wheelbase. 90hp/76ft-lbs torque. excessive wibration. eye candy.

compare to the typical air-cooled buell: similar (or lower) pricing when new. 400-465 lbs (depending on year/model). lean angle 42-50deg., depending on model. wheelbase 52”-55” (depending on year/model). 101hp/90ft-lbs torque (some models less; ~$1k-$1.5k cost installed to increase to even >101/90.) minimal wibration. eye candy.

used buells in good shape can be found for ~$2k-$6k - including the newer wild 146hp/375lb rotax-powered hoh-cooled models. even my ’95 s2, (originally 76hp/76ft-lbs torque; now 90rwhp/90ft-lbs rw torque, w/~$1500 engine/exh/ecm mods installed), and w/>40k on it, will run circles around the new xr1200r. i cannot see why anyone would be interested in the xr1200r with so many nicer buells awailable for far less cash, and you don't have to support the hated h-d factory.

and, as nice as the xr looks, my s2 doesn’t look half-bad.



now, to get back on the dr650 topic. last year, i bought a 2000 dr650 w/~8k on it; it had the upgrade rear tail-light, modded airbox, trail-tech vapor speedo, ims tank, and (poorly installed) super motard wheels/tires. also, the steering head bearings were shot. but, it ran strong. so, $1300 and it was mine. i only have ridden it ~80 miles – to my house, and then straight to the shop. since then, i was sent overseas, and having recently returned; it looks like i will finally be riding this today or tomorrow. (if it ever stops raining. ) anyway, i am excited; here’s what’s been done:
- re-lace rear sm wheel, which was backwards, contributing to excessive offset - now wheel is centered.
- install rm125 usd front end, w/racetech springs
- install keihin fcr39 carb (prewiously set up; it came off a dr650)
- install new exhaust – tsukigi gsxr upgrade muffler/kientech hi-flow midpipe/fmf powerbomb hi-flow header
- install new 520 chain w/16/42 sprockets (this is a street-bike)
- install new baja designs headlight, (will adapt aftermarket bi-xenon hid bulb kit)
- install new led turn signals
- install used corbin seat
- install used rear rack
as soon as my employment situation is stablized, a cogent dynamics rear shock upgrade is in the works; i have a good 2nd stock shock ready to ship...

here’s a pic of the bike before it went into the shop last year:



i am really anxious to ride this!


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Old 09-09-2011, 08:51 AM   #54245
badguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
...i cannot see why anyone would be interested in the xr1200r with so many nicer buells awailable for far less cash, and you don't have to support the hated h-d factory....
Wow, somebody drank a little too much buell-ade

Just kidding, HD pisses me off too. It's not enough that the bikes are grossly overpriced, they have to make them a pain in the butt to work on as well.

Having said that, your DR sounds like it's gonna be a blast (not to be confused with a Buell Blast...) I wish I had a set of SM wheels.
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:56 AM   #54246
FatChance
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Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Hey, watch it, some of us like yellow you know.
Yellow is the fastest color. Everyone knows that!
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:32 AM   #54247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
My biggest trouble was breaking the bead on the rear tire. Even two large c-clamps couldn't do it. The tire had been on 9 years so I'm hoping the next one is easier.

Any tips for that?
I've found the easiest way is the 2 x 4 method.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grunCumm8go
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:44 AM   #54248
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
My biggest trouble was breaking the bead on the rear tire. Even two large c-clamps couldn't do it. The tire had been on 9 years so I'm hoping the next one is easier.

Any tips for that?
Breaking the bead is always the hardest part. I'm surprised the C clamps did not break the bead. Old tires can be very tough ... the bead edge glues itself to the rim over time. Best for this is Coates Tire machine (or other pro machine).

I've had good luck with one BIG C Clamp ... along with some little wood blocks and tire soap. Sometimes if you can leave the wheel/tire in Hot Sun for a couple hours ... it can help. You have to rig the C Clamp so that it is pressing in on both the over and under sides of the tire side wall. Correct positioning of the clamp is important. Practice makes perfect.

Most 50/50 Dual Sport tires are easier to break the bead ... your boots and 3 tire irons will usually do the job. Some road biased tires are HARD ... like the Avon Distanzia I've used several times. Pirelli 120/17 MT-90 Scorpion was no problem. Did it on side of road. Maybe Size affects breaking bead?
My Pirelli was a 120 ... my Avon a 130. T-Wings are 120's.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:47 AM   #54249
scottbed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
Yellow is the fastest color. Everyone knows that!
Yellow bikes make me so ho'ny. Me love them long time.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:52 AM   #54250
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy View Post
I've found the easiest way is the 2 x 4 method.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grunCumm8go
I've used that same 2 X 4 method for years.
Guess what? I won't work on a Avon Distanzia! I've used that method on many tire changes on many different bikes. The DR with the Avon Distanzia is the first where it would not work. Tough bastard.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:23 AM   #54251
doug s.
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Originally Posted by badguy View Post
Wow, somebody drank a little too much buell-ade

Just kidding, HD pisses me off too. It's not enough that the bikes are grossly overpriced, they have to make them a pain in the butt to work on as well.

Having said that, your DR sounds like it's gonna be a blast (not to be confused with a Buell Blast...) I wish I had a set of SM wheels.
i have owned my buell s2 since 1998; it is an absolutely killer bike that will be passed on to my next of kin.

yes, i suspect my dr will also have its merits. sm wheels was a prerequisite for me; so i was fortunate to find a bike that awreddy had 'em, for not much more coin than the wheels/tires themselves.

doug s.,
still raining here in md...
but, badguy, as you're also in md, you awreddy knew that!
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:03 AM   #54252
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
i sure wont be lowering anything. does this raise the suspension in the front and back? thanks.
Whoops! I forgot about the other half of your question.

Yes, stiffening the suspension will "lift" the bike to the limits of its OEM height (i.e., stiffer suspension = less static sag).

However, if you really want to add inches to the height (seat height, ground clearance, etc) you will have to look into after market suspension links ("dog-bones") to raise the rear, and different forks to raise the front.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #54253
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy View Post
I've found the easiest way is the 2 x 4 method.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grunCumm8go

does it matter that the bead on that tire was already broken?
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:08 PM   #54254
Motodeficient
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Switching my stock front brake line out tonight for a braided one. I have never really done anything with the brakes before. Any tips I should be aware of? I do have a mity-vac.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:11 PM   #54255
WhichWayNow
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Gasket Removal

Does anyone have a tip on how to remove the old gasket material from the Stator Cover? I started trying to scrape it last night, and that didn't work very well.
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