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Old 09-14-2011, 05:38 PM   #54451
asrvivor
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Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
What is back and forth ?
If you mean inline with the axle,it is the inner spigot that supports the carrier.
The excess clearance can load the bearing.

Well, getting started and this is the wabling I was talking about. Shoulda noticed this a while ago. Everything looks good except the bearing though. SO FAR
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:39 PM   #54452
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Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Well, getting started and this is the wabling I was talking about. Shoulda noticed this a while ago. Everything looks good except the bearing though. SO FAR
Oops wrong photo
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:44 PM   #54453
B1
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Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Well, getting started and this is the wabling I was talking about. Shoulda noticed this a while ago. Everything looks good except the bearing though. SO FAR
damn. was it the usual crappy single sealed OEM bearing? dust, water and mud will eventually get in on the non-sealed side and make a mess of things quickly. i'd suggest replacing all your bearings (front and rear) with ones sealed on both sides as the original ones wear out.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:54 PM   #54454
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Originally Posted by B1 View Post
damn. was it the usual crappy single sealed OEM bearing? dust, water and mud will eventually get in on the non-sealed side and make a mess of things quickly. i'd suggest replacing all your bearings (front and rear) with ones sealed on both sides as the original ones wear out.

New bearings in the freezer now. Yep 10000 miles on an 2010 DR650se. Must have been all the water crossings on the OBDR last month

Well know I'm having trouble, I need help. Anyone have a diagram of the cush drive and bearing assembly. I have no clue where to start. I took the seal off and race and everything fell out in pieces. Need an assembly chart. Shit usually when I take things apart I take pix of how they came apart so I can look at them if need be for reassmble. This is a pile of dust.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:13 PM   #54455
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Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
New bearings in the freezer now. Yep 10000 miles on an 2010 DR650se. Must have been all the water crossings on the OBDR last month

Well know I'm having trouble, I need help. Anyone have a diagram of the cush drive and bearing assembly. I have no clue where to start. I took the seal off and race and everything fell out in pieces. Need an assembly chart. Shit usually when I take things apart I take pix of how they came apart so I can look at them if need be for reassmble. This is a pile of dust.

Other question, how in the hell am I gonna get the bearing race outta there?
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:32 PM   #54456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
New bearings in the freezer now. Yep 10000 miles on an 2010 DR650se. Must have been all the water crossings on the OBDR last month

Well know I'm having trouble, I need help. Anyone have a diagram of the cush drive and bearing assembly. I have no clue where to start. I took the seal off and race and everything fell out in pieces. Need an assembly chart. Shit usually when I take things apart I take pix of how they came apart so I can look at them if need be for reassmble. This is a pile of dust.
I can't remember if the outer race shows enough to knock it out (broken bearing)

There are some pictures here,PM me if you want the manual PDF.
The fully seal bearing is a must.
Take the time after fitting the new one to refit the wheel without the cush drive rubbers.
Tighten the axle then see how much movement there is at the sprocket outer edge in line with the axle.
Then make a face light this.



http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../DR%20Bearing/

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Old 09-14-2011, 06:36 PM   #54457
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This picture suggests it would be hard to knock the outer out by itself.
You might be able to get a drift on an angle and ease it out.
Heating the hub would not hurt.
That or putting a small bead of weld on the race to shrink it.

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Old 09-14-2011, 06:43 PM   #54458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
This picture suggests it would be hard to knock the outer out by itself.
You might be able to get a drift on an angle and ease it out.
Heating the hub would not hurt.
That or putting a small bead of weld on the race to shrink it.


Hmmmmmmm. Thanks for the pix. Good info. Dammit I can barely get in thru the other side to get on it. I think the welding idea may work. I was thinking about dry Ice on the race and then tap at it. I'm worried about it coming out at an angle and scaring the seat. Pm set for the manual. shoot this thing looks like hell, I think I'll take it to shop to bath it first. Maybe get a better look at it then. Shop up street has solvent tank. Hmmmmmm dammit
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:35 PM   #54459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
...Well know I'm having trouble, I need help. Anyone have a diagram of the cush drive and bearing assembly. I have no clue where to start. I took the seal off and race and everything fell out in pieces. Need an assembly chart. Shit usually when I take things apart I take pix of how they came apart so I can look at them if need be for reassmble. This is a pile of dust.
Hope this helps....

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Old 09-14-2011, 07:45 PM   #54460
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Originally Posted by Heavy View Post
Hope this helps....

Yes anything helps. That's good stuff. Adv8 is somehow from OZ helping too. Fairly shur it's early in the morning there. Thanks guys keep ideas coming. Gonna have a drink now and think about it. Tried drift and tapping. No success, and scares me to hit inside there like that. I'll have it figured out after a double.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:25 PM   #54461
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Definitely put a small weld bead on the inside of the outer race mate. It'll probably fall straight out. Or maybe you can cut a slot in it with a dremel but I'm not sure it maybe to hard.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:46 PM   #54462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
or putting a small bead of weld on the race to shrink it.
+1
Running a weld bead around the inside of the race is the quickest, easiest solution.
Once it cools the race will fall right out.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:21 PM   #54463
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Low priced knobbies

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Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
I've ridden with someone who had one of these on. The knobbies were so tall and soft you could grab the knobby and wiggle it with ease. That tire wouldn't have lasted 500 miles on the street. Neat tire though
asrvivor, I've had good luck using the Shinko 244 knobbies on my DR650.

This tire picture shows the rear 244 that was put on 7/1/2011 (3312 miles ago) and has LOTS of highway miles commuting to work 40 miles per day, and lots of weekend rides to the woods.

You can see by the chicken strips that it handles the corners pretty well, and can't beat the price (around $50 for rear and about 1/2 that for the front). I've been getting about 10K on the front and 6K to 9K on the rear, depending on throttle use (heavy or light).

Dave
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:35 PM   #54464
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ghey fork gaiters

I'm in the process of rebuilding the front forks. New seals, emulators, springs, bushings, blah blah blah. Can anyone give me two good reasons to reinstall those ghey fork gaiters? I've got a fork brace on there now and that squishes them all up and makes them look even more low budget than they already are... I know the first reason will be to keep rocks and debris from dinging the fork tubes. I've ridden plenty of street bikes with exposed tubes so I don't really buy that. Looking online though, I don't find many pictures of dr's without them. Enlighten me, please...
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:45 PM   #54465
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Originally Posted by wfo600 View Post
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front forks. New seals, emulators, springs, bushings, blah blah blah. Can anyone give me two good reasons to reinstall those ghey fork gaiters? I've got a fork brace on there now and that squishes them all up and makes them look even more low budget than they already are... I know the first reason will be to keep rocks and debris from dinging the fork tubes. I've ridden plenty of street bikes with exposed tubes so I don't really buy that. Looking online though, I don't find many pictures of dr's without them. Enlighten me, please...
Dirt riding = dust and dirt = quicker wearing seals.

Street bikes don't get out in the rocks and debris as a rule.

I use fork skins...
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ork-Skins.aspx
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