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Old 09-14-2011, 01:36 PM   #54451
Grizz Adams
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Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
I sure wish they made this in a 17-- http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx I think it's the one I'm thinking of... I went on a ride with a guy who had one on his KTM. I forget if it's that exact one, but it had really tall lugs and was the most dirt oriented DOT tire I've seen. Could have used it that day through all of the mud too.
This tire is the MOST aggressive DOT you will ever find as of now. It is only recommended for Big Bore bikes. Here is a pic. If you have a 18" DR350 wheel on your bike and are daring give it a try. I have a buddy with an XR650R that loves them.

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Old 09-14-2011, 01:39 PM   #54452
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Originally Posted by Josh_TN View Post
This tire is the MOST aggressive DOT you will ever find as of now. It is only recommended for Big Bore bikes. Here is a pic. If you have a 18" DR350 wheel on your bike and are daring give it a try. I have a buddy with an XR650R that loves them.

I've ridden with someone who had one of these on. The knobbies were so tall and soft you could grab the knobby and wiggle it with ease. That tire wouldn't have lasted 500 miles on the street. Neat tire though
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:27 PM   #54453
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
I sure wish they made this in a 17-- http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx I think it's the one I'm thinking of... I went on a ride with a guy who had one on his KTM. I forget if it's that exact one, but it had really tall lugs and was the most dirt oriented DOT tire I've seen. Could have used it that day through all of the mud too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
I've ridden with someone who had one of these on. The knobbies were so tall and soft you could grab the knobby and wiggle it with ease. That tire wouldn't have lasted 500 miles on the street. Neat tire though
And right there is the exact problem with dirt bike spec knobbies as dual sport tires: They won't last very long on pavement. I've run various Kendas on dirt bikes ... not my favorite ... but on pavement the knobs would be gone in 500 miles or so. Same goes with the Terra Flex if you ride hard on pavement. Once these tires are flat spotted in the center ... then they suck everywhere. May as well change them.

Dirt knobbies are fine if you stay on dirt or sand. But once on pavement ... I'd advise keeping your speed way down to save your rear tire. Fronts hold up much better ... but some may not turn well and may "skate" mid corner if pushed hard. I really like the old D739 as a front. Good on and off road.
No longer made but some floating around.

I've done many 2 week Baja rides (annual event) going back to the late 1980's. I've tried all kinds of tires on many different bikes. One thing all the dozen or so guys in our group know is that standard dirt knobs disappear quick doing high speed on pavement. I tried several really good dirt bike knobbies over the years ... thinking they would make our 1500 mile ride. (about half on highway)

On a few occasions I barely made it back to the border. I discovered MT21's in 1988 ... and they were the standard bearer for years in our group. Now, there are better choices that wear even better if you have long paved stretches on the program.

The current DOT dual sport knobbies (TKC, MT21, Karoo, T63, D606, IRC TR8, Kenda Big Block) some are pricey but the good news is they fit the 17" DR650 wheel and most actually hold up pretty well on pavement and work OK in the dirt.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:28 PM   #54454
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_TN View Post
This tire is the MOST aggressive DOT you will ever find as of now. It is only recommended for Big Bore bikes. Here is a pic. If you have a 18" DR350 wheel on your bike and are daring give it a try. I have a buddy with an XR650R that loves them.

Or the Kenda 760...
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:37 PM   #54455
epix1718
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I have the Kenda 760 (Trackmaster) currently on my front.. ya it's aggressive but still does "OK" for street use. Did a 600 mile jaunt last weekend and it faired pretty well. 50 miles or so on the freeway @ 70mph
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:05 PM   #54456
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Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
My question is - are you guys just going ahead and replacing the wheel bearings at the same time?

That's the way I did it too. Might as well as long as you've got all the grease and tools out already. Just popped all the new bearings in the freezer before I started and came in to get them a couple at a time when I was ready.

......shu
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:17 PM   #54457
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
I've been seeing a lot of discussion about the cush drive bearing going out. Well, happy day mine is done. Went to lub chain other day and sprocket will warble back and forth about 3rd of an inch. Dammit

My question is - are you guys just going ahead and replacing the wheel bearings at the same time?
What is back and forth ?
If you mean inline with the axle,it is the inner spigot that supports the carrier.
The excess clearance can load the bearing.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:19 PM   #54458
RamMan4x4
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Originally Posted by evilman View Post
Can i use RTV silicone if yes which color?
I used Permatex ultra grey because it had the great oil resistance and a decent temperature range...though I was actually looking for the ultra copper because it had a higher temp resistance and great oil resistance but I couldn't find it. The ultra grey has been in use on my DR for over a year now and hasn't leaked.

Ultra Grey:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

Ultra Copper:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:38 PM   #54459
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Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
What is back and forth ?
If you mean inline with the axle,it is the inner spigot that supports the carrier.
The excess clearance can load the bearing.

Well, getting started and this is the wabling I was talking about. Shoulda noticed this a while ago. Everything looks good except the bearing though. SO FAR
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:39 PM   #54460
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Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Well, getting started and this is the wabling I was talking about. Shoulda noticed this a while ago. Everything looks good except the bearing though. SO FAR
Oops wrong photo
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:44 PM   #54461
B1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Well, getting started and this is the wabling I was talking about. Shoulda noticed this a while ago. Everything looks good except the bearing though. SO FAR
damn. was it the usual crappy single sealed OEM bearing? dust, water and mud will eventually get in on the non-sealed side and make a mess of things quickly. i'd suggest replacing all your bearings (front and rear) with ones sealed on both sides as the original ones wear out.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:54 PM   #54462
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Originally Posted by B1 View Post
damn. was it the usual crappy single sealed OEM bearing? dust, water and mud will eventually get in on the non-sealed side and make a mess of things quickly. i'd suggest replacing all your bearings (front and rear) with ones sealed on both sides as the original ones wear out.

New bearings in the freezer now. Yep 10000 miles on an 2010 DR650se. Must have been all the water crossings on the OBDR last month

Well know I'm having trouble, I need help. Anyone have a diagram of the cush drive and bearing assembly. I have no clue where to start. I took the seal off and race and everything fell out in pieces. Need an assembly chart. Shit usually when I take things apart I take pix of how they came apart so I can look at them if need be for reassmble. This is a pile of dust.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:13 PM   #54463
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
New bearings in the freezer now. Yep 10000 miles on an 2010 DR650se. Must have been all the water crossings on the OBDR last month

Well know I'm having trouble, I need help. Anyone have a diagram of the cush drive and bearing assembly. I have no clue where to start. I took the seal off and race and everything fell out in pieces. Need an assembly chart. Shit usually when I take things apart I take pix of how they came apart so I can look at them if need be for reassmble. This is a pile of dust.

Other question, how in the hell am I gonna get the bearing race outta there?
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Our OBDR Trip http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=712724
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:32 PM   #54464
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
New bearings in the freezer now. Yep 10000 miles on an 2010 DR650se. Must have been all the water crossings on the OBDR last month

Well know I'm having trouble, I need help. Anyone have a diagram of the cush drive and bearing assembly. I have no clue where to start. I took the seal off and race and everything fell out in pieces. Need an assembly chart. Shit usually when I take things apart I take pix of how they came apart so I can look at them if need be for reassmble. This is a pile of dust.
I can't remember if the outer race shows enough to knock it out (broken bearing)

There are some pictures here,PM me if you want the manual PDF.
The fully seal bearing is a must.
Take the time after fitting the new one to refit the wheel without the cush drive rubbers.
Tighten the axle then see how much movement there is at the sprocket outer edge in line with the axle.
Then make a face light this.



http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../DR%20Bearing/

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Old 09-14-2011, 05:36 PM   #54465
ADV8
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This picture suggests it would be hard to knock the outer out by itself.
You might be able to get a drift on an angle and ease it out.
Heating the hub would not hurt.
That or putting a small bead of weld on the race to shrink it.

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