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Old 09-15-2011, 04:04 AM   #54451
mercenario27
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Location: Schenectady NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
asrvivor, I've had good luck using the Shinko 244 knobbies on my DR650.

This tire picture shows the rear 244 that was put on 7/1/2011 (3312 miles ago) and has LOTS of highway miles commuting to work 40 miles per day, and lots of weekend rides to the woods.

You can see by the chicken strips that it handles the corners pretty well, and can't beat the price (around $50 for rear and about 1/2 that for the front). I've been getting about 10K on the front and 6K to 9K on the rear, depending on throttle use (heavy or light).

Dave
If been using the Kenda 270 and already have almost 4k on them and they have 50% thread left on them. I beat the snot out of these tires on and off road, I'm always on the throttle hard. At first I thought they weren't going to last the whole season, but the season is just about over and they have penty on thread life left. I ride 50/50, I would love to ride offroad more! Lack of local trails and my fellow thumpers work schedules prevents that.

On road they are pretty decent and they don't wear as fast as you would think. Off road they are better, in the mud/sand only a true MX tire would be better. They work great on the hill climbs.

I would diffently recommend the Shinko 270s and the Kenda 270s as a true 50/50 tire
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:40 AM   #54452
mercenario27
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Has anyone replaced their clutch/brake levers/perches on their pig? Post some pictures of them mounted.
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Old 09-15-2011, 07:35 AM   #54453
Porrick
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HDB top plate/guards for DR650

Hey,

I am about to buy the HDB fat bar / top plate / hand guard setup and can't get them (him?) to answer an e-mail about the proper top plate bolt pattern. So I'll ask here:

I have 7/8" bars (TAG X5) and my current bolt pattern is 98mm x 35mm. If I want to go to the Protaper fat bars, do I just need to choose the 98mm x 38/40mm option from the drop-down menu on the HDB site?? It is the only 98mm choice in the menu, but I wanna be sure....

Hope he's more responsive after I've ordered and payed.

Thanks for any help.

Porrick
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Old 09-15-2011, 07:46 AM   #54454
YnotJP?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porrick View Post
Hey,

I am about to buy the HDB fat bar / top plate / hand guard setup and can't get them (him?) to answer an e-mail about the proper top plate bolt pattern. So I'll ask here:

I have 7/8" bars (TAG X5) and my current bolt pattern is 98mm x 35mm. If I want to go to the Protaper fat bars, do I just need to choose the 98mm x 38/40mm option from the drop-down menu on the HDB site?? It is the only 98mm choice in the menu, but I wanna be sure....

Hope he's more responsive after I've ordered and payed.

Thanks for any help.

Porrick
I have the same set-up. I have the 100X38/40 and it works. The two bolts for the lower half of the mount that came with my order were too short, but, I just got some longer ones at a locale bolt shop for about $4.00.

You will like the bars and guards.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:00 AM   #54455
xKLR_John
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The Kenda 270s have their advocates but I prefer the Shinko 244. The 270 had a strange feeling of losing traction on the rear, on the road, when initiating turns. I sort of got used to the feeling because I never did go skidding off into the ditch but it wasn't a nice smooth transition into the turn. The first few turns I swear the rear was stepping out 6" before the side knobs gripped. I reckon it's a mind over matter thing, if you can get past the spooky transition the 270 will grip just fine.

I like the Shinko 244 a lot better. YMMV

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
If been using the Kenda 270 and already have almost 4k on them and they have 50% thread left on them. I beat the snot out of these tires on and off road, I'm always on the throttle hard. At first I thought they weren't going to last the whole season, but the season is just about over and they have penty on thread life left. I ride 50/50, I would love to ride offroad more! Lack of local trails and my fellow thumpers work schedules prevents that.

On road they are pretty decent and they don't wear as fast as you would think. Off road they are better, in the mud/sand only a true MX tire would be better. They work great on the hill climbs.

I would diffently recommend the Shinko 270s and the Kenda 270s as a true 50/50 tire
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:09 AM   #54456
wfo600
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[QUOTE=ADV8;16859356]The TL1000 was the original V - Strom.

[IMG]

How funny, I had a tl1000s too. The US model didn't have the ti coated fork sliders though... Sold it after it tried to kill me for about the 65th time. That thing was a head shaing, tank slapping mess.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:28 AM   #54457
Grizz Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xKLR_John View Post
The Kenda 270s have their advocates but I prefer the Shinko 244. The 270 had a strange feeling of losing traction on the rear, on the road, when initiating turns. I sort of got used to the feeling because I never did go skidding off into the ditch but it wasn't a nice smooth transition into the turn. The first few turns I swear the rear was stepping out 6" before the side knobs gripped. I reckon it's a mind over matter thing, if you can get past the spooky transition the 270 will grip just fine.

I like the Shinko 244 a lot better. YMMV
The reason those feel like they are stepping out is that the lugs are so squared off and soft that the side lugs flex when cornering. I had good luck with those tires, but they did feel a little sketchy in hard corners. I never had them let loose on me though.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:28 AM   #54458
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Dirt riding = dust and dirt = quicker wearing seals. Street bikes don't get out in the rocks and debris as a rule.

I use fork skins...
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ork-Skins.aspx
In heavy dirt use, dirt, mud and water, can get inside the stock accordion fork gaiters. Good idea to clean in there once in a while. If you don't, eventually you may damage a fork seal.

Street riding is actually a good place to nick a fork tube. Little stones kicked up at high speed can ding the tubes if unprotected. A nicked fork tube can tear a fork seal.

The Fork Skins are an excellent solution ... and work better with a fork brace.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:32 AM   #54459
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
asrvivor, I've had good luck using the Shinko 244 knobbies on my DR650.

This tire picture shows the rear 244 that was put on 7/1/2011 (3312 miles ago) and has LOTS of highway miles commuting to work 40 miles per day, and lots of weekend rides to the woods.

You can see by the chicken strips that it handles the corners pretty well, and can't beat the price (around $50 for rear and about 1/2 that for the front). I've been getting about 10K on the front and 6K to 9K on the rear, depending on throttle use (heavy or light).

Dave
I have a set of 244's. I ran the front (the 244 Golden Boy) Pretty scary front tire for street use, IMO. But it wears like iron. I have not yet mounted the rear ... but it's here waiting for the right ride to use it. Good to know your 244 rear is holding up so well! (3312 miles since July 1st! Wow ... you've been riding! ) Thanks for the feed back!
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:34 AM   #54460
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The postie just dropped off the HID kit from

http://canadiancruisercustomizing.co...kvri9sgb7fb8t2

Looks OK for the princely sum of $44.99

Nice! That kit is exactly the same as the DDM tuning kit we get here in USA. Does yours have the Lo Beam/High Beam option? Mine ($27) is low beam only ... but is so bright I left it alone.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:38 AM   #54461
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xKLR_John View Post
The Kenda 270s have their advocates but I prefer the Shinko 244. The 270 had a strange feeling of losing traction on the rear, on the road, when initiating turns. I sort of got used to the feeling because I never did go skidding off into the ditch but it wasn't a nice smooth transition into the turn. The first few turns I swear the rear was stepping out 6" before the side knobs gripped. I reckon it's a mind over matter thing, if you can get past the spooky transition the 270 will grip just fine.

I like the Shinko 244 a lot better. YMMV
Your reaction is pretty typical of the K270's from the KLR gang. Many KLR riders love them ... but won't be doing aggressive cornering with them. They last really well ... even on a fully loaded KLR. That says a lot, IMO ... but use caution in sporty riding at serious lean angles.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:47 AM   #54462
ct-ktm
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I been using the k270 and loved them...after a flat front doing 50 or so I might look for something a little tougher in the sidewall..Looking at the tire last night and it has a huge gash in it..
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:01 AM   #54463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfo600 View Post
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front forks. New seals, emulators, springs, bushings, blah blah blah. Can anyone give me two good reasons to reinstall those ghey fork gaiters? I've got a fork brace on there now and that squishes them all up and makes them look even more low budget than they already are... I know the first reason will be to keep rocks and debris from dinging the fork tubes. I've ridden plenty of street bikes with exposed tubes so I don't really buy that. Looking online though, I don't find many pictures of dr's without them. Enlighten me, please...
I put gaiters on my street bikes. On my K100RS I went through 2 sets of seals in 6,000 miles. After the gaiters: over 100,000 miles and the seals were still good. I put a Fork skin type protector on my F800ST and now have 30,000 miles on my fork seals. On my DR I now have 40,000 miles on my fork seals- lots of dirt and rocks.

My opinion: it's a mistake to take them off any bike and the reason street bikes don't have them is for looks. They're highly functional.

............shu
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:09 AM   #54464
plugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I put gaiters on my street bikes. On my K100RS I went through 2 sets of seals in 6,000 miles. After the gaiters: over 100,000 miles and the seals were still good. I put a Fork skin type protector on my F800ST and now have 30,000 miles on my fork seals. On my DR I now have 40,000 miles on my fork seals- lots of dirt and rocks.

My opinion: it's a mistake to take them off any bike and the reason street bikes don't have them is for looks. They're highly functional.

............shu
thats right. i prefer the looks with gators, my FXR had em, all my bikes get em
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:23 AM   #54465
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Nice! That kit is exactly the same as the DDM tuning kit we get here in USA. Does yours have the Lo Beam/High Beam option? Mine ($27) is low beam only ... but is so bright I left it alone.
i got the ddm kit w/the hi-lo option, but i cannot use the h4 bulb/harness - the bulb won't fir into my baha designs faring. i dint have the faring in hand when i placed the order; i simply assumed that it would fit, as the b-d faring uses an h4 bulb. it has a completely different mounting set-up tho. so, for a little more $$$ than i paid for the entire kit, i had to order a pair of bi-xenon h13 bulbs, which i will be able to get to work. (many thanks to the ddm phone-service techs, which were wery patient helping me to sort this all out.)

anyway, i now have a perfect condition never-used h4 bi-xenon bulb/harness that looks yust like what's shown in adv8's pic, if someone who has this kit wants to make me an offer, so they can have an extra bulb. re: price, all i know is if you order a pair, it will cost ~$50 shipped... (i assume the h4 bulb assembly fits into a stock dr650 headlight?)

doug s.
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