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Old 09-24-2011, 07:26 AM   #54841
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 446
What is the PROPER way to route a SS front brake hose??

I routed mine inside of the fork tube, the same as the stock line, and now the SS hose is digging into the inside of the fork tube. Very annoyed at this, its only been on the bike for maybe 100 miles so far. I wrapped it with electrical tape for the time being. I could run it outside of the fork tube, but it would be more prone to catching on something... And I am not sure that it would rub into the fork tube on the outside either. I would rather have it dig into the inside of the tube than the outside, but of course it would be best to not have it happen at at all.

I was just searching google and came across this thread on advrider
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=678185

You can see in the picture that he has put the brake hose clamp (1) above the plastic shoulder (2). When I installed the hose I purposly put the clamp (1) below the shoulder (2) in position (3) so that the brake hose could not slide down and come in contact with the brake rotor.



This way I don't have to worrry about the brake hose contacting the brake rotor, but is this why the hose is rubbing against the brake tube?
I guess this is a question someone like procycle could answer, what is the proper way to install the SS brake line so that it doesn't rub its way into the fork tube, or get sliced by the brake rotor.
I guess the way I have it is safest I will just add the urethane tubing so it won't rub against the tube.

This may not seem like a big deal but there is obviously some confusion about how the brake line should be routed, which could even be deadly judging from the thread that I linked to.

Motodeficient screwed with this post 09-24-2011 at 08:09 AM
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:24 AM   #54842
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 446
After thinking about this more and searching around the net I believe I know what the correct answer is. Ditch the stock plastic clamp that holds the thicker stock brake hose, and install an adel clamp that is the correct size to close around the shoulder (2) on the SS hose. This will prevent the hose from sliding down and contacting the rotor, and should prevent it from moving around and digging into the fork tube. The way I have it installed it will not contact the rotor but it can still move around and rub against the fork tube.
Like this:
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:25 AM   #54843
Israeli DR
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Oddometer: 4
Clutch problam

Hello to all
I'm new here
Elad from Israel
Have a 99 dr650se for 4 years

a month ago my clutch start to slip
I replaced it with a new kit, probablly not a good one 'sumo', now its sliping again, It started after oil filling, and got really bad after replacing all the oil.
when i opened it for the first time i have noticed something weird, two thicker driven plates instead of one, and one of them worn from the contact with the concaved washer, and a somewhat damaged lock washer , the first time if I remember correctly only one of its tailes was damaged, and the second time both of them.


the second time I checked the clutch, after the slipping of the new kit, few of the drive plates from the new kit were really worn badly, and again the last thicker driven plate were worn by the concaved washer.
Before I opened the clutch for the second time I tried the clutch cable and i changed the brand of the oil.

now I checked the old kit and the driven plates are over the service limit which means I can use tham again, also the drive plates are over the service limit, except for the thicker driven plate which is worn by the concaved washer, so i switched sides, it worked for a 1000 miles and now its starting slipping again


maybe the new kit is bad?

why the stop washer and the thicker driven plate are worn?

maybe my installation was bad?

Maybe the concaved washer or the clutch basket?

My instinct is to purchase a new high quality (barnnet) kit and to replace it, but i have some doubts

Any idea or help are warmly wanted

Thankes
Elad
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:45 AM   #54844
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Going to Morocco in 3 weeks and been getting the DR up to spec .....i thought !!! here's my quiery , i bought and fitted a K and N air filter thinking it's the best way to go , but after talking to a few hardened Morocco riders they reckon the KxNs need cleaning every 2in in sandy conditions !!! and they advise UNI (foam) filters
I've ordered a UNI filter from the States €25 delivered , K and N cost me €42 so i'll end up with both. Has anyone had experience with either ?
Phil
K&N filters flow air well and give good performance but less than ideal off road. They simply DO NOT filter fine dirt well ... especially Bull Dust or Fesh Fesh. (a very fine dirt like Cake Flower)

An oiled foam filter is the way to go. UNI are very good, also many here use Twin-Air. Pro Cycle sell them and they do international shipping ... FAST! I did not know UNI made a DR650 filter. Make sure it fits and is not for for earlier DR650S. (pre 1996)

If spinning up the rear tire in deep sand all day ... I would clean out the air box every day. Even with the UNI. This more for peace of mind. The filter itself should be fine.

If riding in heavy dust you should be OK for 3 or 4 days of this if Solo. If riding in a group ... and you are 3rd or 4th rider, then you may want to have a look at your filter every day. The good news is if lightly oiled and a bit of grease put along the filter sealing lip, NO DIRT or SAND will get past the UNI or Twin-Air filters.

In severe dust some riders use Filter Skins. These are oiled cloth covers that fit over the filter and work as a prefilter, very effective. When they get dirty your simply pull it off ... and your filter is clean. K&N have something like this too ... but I'm old school, just don't trust K&N off road.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:49 AM   #54845
hmmwv15
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: north-ish Georgia
Oddometer: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
After thinking about this more and searching around the net I believe I know what the correct answer is. Ditch the stock plastic clamp that holds the thicker stock brake hose, and install an adel clamp that is the correct size to close around the shoulder (2) on the SS hose. This will prevent the hose from sliding down and contacting the rotor, and should prevent it from moving around and digging into the fork tube. The way I have it installed it will not contact the rotor but it can still move around and rub against the fork tube.
Like this:
If you are creative with electrical tape, just wrap some around the brake line under the stock clamp on the forks, and wrap some around the top of the line where it runs into the sheath. That's how I did mine, it's been working great.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:55 AM   #54846
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
So turned on the turn signal to turn into the driveway tonight, and it was flashing twice as fast as its supposed to. I tried a few things but it still does it, and it's only for the left turn; the right turn blinks normal. What's up with that?
This is typical. You've got a turn signal wire disconnected somewhere. Pull each one out and check continuity. Probably the rear ones. Will do the same if bulb is burned out ... but this HIGHLY UNLIKELY.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:59 AM   #54847
Stringer99
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 183
Question

Can anyone tell me what the torque specs are for the spark plugs, oil drain plug, and the oil filter/cover? I used to have a kx 80 many years ago and wound up stripping almost every bolt on that bike. I REALLY didn't want that to happen again so I picked up a torque wrench today. Thanks!
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:01 AM   #54848
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Israeli DR View Post
when i opened it for the first time i have noticed something weird, two thicker driven plates instead of one, and one of them worn from the contact with the concaved washer, and a somewhat damaged lock washer , the first time if I remember correctly only one of its tailes was damaged, and the second time both of them.

maybe the new kit is bad?
why the stop washer and the thicker driven plate are worn?
maybe my installation was bad?
Maybe the concaved washer or the clutch basket?

My instinct is to purchase a new high quality (barnnet) kit and to replace it, but i have some doubts Any idea or help are warmly wanted
Thankes
Elad
Three words Elad: Genuine Suzuki Parts! Barnett are crap! Get Suzuki parts and have someone who understands a clutch install help you. Hopefully no serious damage. No Synthetic oil. Shalom!
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:03 AM   #54849
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Can anyone tell me what the torque specs are for the spark plugs, oil drain plug, and the oil filter/cover? I used to have a kx 80 many years ago and wound up stripping almost every bolt on that bike. I REALLY didn't want that to happen again so I picked up a torque wrench today. Thanks!
Spark plug 8 ftlbs (96 in lbs)
TDC inspection hole plug 16.5 ft (198)
Oil drain 17.5 ft (210)
Oil filter cover 8flbs (96 in) stock 4ft (48) alum cover
Oil 2.5 qt w/ filter (10w-40)
Cylinder head cover bolt 7ft (84)
Valves adj on the tight end (engine runs quiter)
Handle bar clamp bolt 16.5 ft (198)
Front wheel axel 47 ft : tighten first, cycle shocks 5x
Front wheel axel clamp bolts 7 ft (84 in) : tighten next, top bolt first
Front brake caliper bolts 19ft (228)
Fr brake Bleed nipple 6 ft (72)
Fr Brake pad mounting pin 13lb (156)
Fr brake hose banjo bolts 16.5ft (198)
Rear brake caliper pad 13 ft (156)
Rear wheel axel nut 72.5 ft (cotter pin) / 79.5 (fuji nut)
Upper triple clamp bolt 21 ft (252) / lower 19 ft (228)
Chain free play 1.21.8 in (30-45 mm) 1.2 to 1.8 inches of slack in the middle of the chain
Fork top cap 16.5 ft (198)
Fork preload = 10-20mm
Fork oil height = 6.5 / 16 oz (5.9 lowered need 2 qt)
Rear shock upper bolt 40 ftlb , lower bolt 38 to 45 Nm (cogent) 55nm (stock)
Rear suspension Dog bones fuji-nuts (both) 72.5 flbs
Steering stem (top of triple clamp) top nut/cap 65 ft lbs
Counter sprocket bolts - 4.5 ft lbs


Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RJSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:19 AM   #54850
Stringer99
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 183
Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Spark plug 8 ftlbs (96 in lbs)
TDC inspection hole plug 16.5 ft (198)
Oil drain 17.5 ft (210)
Oil filter cover 8flbs (96 in) stock 4ft (48) alum cover
Oil 2.5 qt w/ filter (10w-40)
Cylinder head cover bolt 7ft (84)
Valves adj on the tight end (engine runs quiter)
Handle bar clamp bolt 16.5 ft (198)
Front wheel axel 47 ft : tighten first, cycle shocks 5x
Front wheel axel clamp bolts 7 ft (84 in) : tighten next, top bolt first
Front brake caliper bolts 19ft (228)
Fr brake Bleed nipple 6 ft (72)
Fr Brake pad mounting pin 13lb (156)
Fr brake hose banjo bolts 16.5ft (198)
Rear brake caliper pad 13 ft (156)
Rear wheel axel nut 72.5 ft (cotter pin) / 79.5 (fuji nut)
Upper triple clamp bolt 21 ft (252) / lower 19 ft (228)
Chain free play 1.21.8 in (30-45 mm) 1.2 to 1.8 inches of slack in the middle of the chain
Fork top cap 16.5 ft (198)
Fork preload = 10-20mm
Fork oil height = 6.5 / 16 oz (5.9 lowered need 2 qt)
Rear shock upper bolt 40 ftlb , lower bolt 38 to 45 Nm (cogent) 55nm (stock)
Rear suspension Dog bones fuji-nuts (both) 72.5 flbs
Steering stem (top of triple clamp) top nut/cap 65 ft lbs
Counter sprocket bolts - 4.5 ft lbs


Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RJSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
awesome! thanks!
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:35 AM   #54851
acap650
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 523
Garmin

Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck View Post
Has anyone tried the Garmin Zumo's? Any good?
I have a Garmin Nuvi 550, waterproof and uses the same case as the Zumo 220, not sure of other differences but does the job at half the price of the Zumo.
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:12 PM   #54852
MADurstewitz
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by Israeli DR View Post
Hello to all
I'm new here
Elad from Israel
Have a 99 dr650se for 4 years

a month ago my clutch start to slip
I replaced it with a new kit, probablly not a good one 'sumo', now its sliping again, It started after oil filling, and got really bad after replacing all the oil.
when i opened it for the first time i have noticed something weird, two thicker driven plates instead of one, and one of them worn from the contact with the concaved washer, and a somewhat damaged lock washer , the first time if I remember correctly only one of its tailes was damaged, and the second time both of them.


the second time I checked the clutch, after the slipping of the new kit, few of the drive plates from the new kit were really worn badly, and again the last thicker driven plate were worn by the concaved washer.
Before I opened the clutch for the second time I tried the clutch cable and i changed the brand of the oil.

now I checked the old kit and the driven plates are over the service limit which means I can use tham again, also the drive plates are over the service limit, except for the thicker driven plate which is worn by the concaved washer, so i switched sides, it worked for a 1000 miles and now its starting slipping again


maybe the new kit is bad?

why the stop washer and the thicker driven plate are worn?

maybe my installation was bad?

Maybe the concaved washer or the clutch basket?

My instinct is to purchase a new high quality (barnnet) kit and to replace it, but i have some doubts

Any idea or help are warmly wanted

Thankes
Elad
Make sure you are not using automotive motor oil. It has friction modifiers that cause wet motorcycle clutches to slpi. Use only motorcycle oil that is made for wet clutches. i.e., no friction modifiers.
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:25 PM   #54853
MADurstewitz
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by badguy View Post
Sorry to hear about the crap you have to deal with...I hope somehow it works out well for you soon. The main problem I see with you fighting this is proving that it's not your fault. I know it's perfectly reasonable to believe you when you say you've been pretty gentle with the bike and haven't abused it, but it's too easy for them to say "yeah but you probably did burnouts all the time and wheelied everywhere, and that led to the damage." Unless you have video or some other way to account for all the miles on the bike, they'll most likely win.

To my knowledge noone's been compensated for the loss of an engine due to a loose NSU screw, so I don't see this faring any better. I hope I'm wrong, though!
Several have advised me to just fix it on my own, as this will be cheaper and less aggravating than trying to get my pound of flesh (God, bless Shakespeare). I am planning on doing just that. It's good avice and I appreciate it. While I'm in there, I'm going to build the piss out of it to prevent this sort of thing from happening again. This will probably be the start of a long and enjoyable modfest. One piece at a time . . . (now I've dated myself).

All I have to say is "shame on Suzuki" for not even considering that there might be a problem. They've lost a potential mobile advertising. I once had an issue with an XR250R and Honda bent over backward to find out what was wrong. Turned out to be my fault (it was blowing blue smoke at one year old and it turned out that I had forgotten to back blow the spark arrestor).and they didn't ask for a dime. I bought the guys in the dealer's shop a case of beer for their trouble and apologised profusely. Everyone went home happy.

That was 25 years ago. My how things have changed.

I also really appreciate the input and sympathy of all who have responded. Quite a community.
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:36 PM   #54854
MADurstewitz
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
You need to call Am. Suzuki back the let them know your local dealer has never worked on a DR650 and has no clue. Ask them to recommend a dealer in your area ... and make sure it's a dealer whose techs are current on all the training. These are usually the better dealerships.

I've dealt with Suzuki from the inside and have also dealt with service issues and had great luck. You are doing the right thing regards documentation .... but no sense hiring a lawyer ... you have no leg to stand on.

BTW, 5 to 6 hours is not unusual to split the cases and re-assemble it all. But I'm not sure that is really necessary to diagnose the problem. Seems to me one wiggle of that countershaft should tell them all they need to know. But if they DO split the cases, may as well have them fix it while they are in there. Now you've got a warranty on the work.

I've split the cases on a DR ... it takes quite a while ... even if you know what your doing. (I didn't) (of course our Aussie blokes here can do it in an hour with couple beers )

The difference between dealers can be astounding. Some are total morons and some really know their stuff and actually take their profession seriously ... and treat customers with respect. Best of luck.

(BTW ... I agree ... corporations are not people ... they are criminal organizations who employ really good liars and Buy & Sell Congress. )
I am planning on writing the whole thing up and submitting it to Suzuki Corp as well as copying the dealership. I'd copy the BBB but they have been so compromised by corporate $$ that it may be a waste of paper.

I agree with you totally on corporate person-hood. I worked in the aerospace and defense industry for a dozen or so years, 20 years ago. They will do anything to keep your tax dollars flowing in. And because they (DOD) are the world's single largest employer at 3.2 million people, the government is scared to do anything about it because it would cause widespread unemployment. I could tell you stories . . .

Don't get me started on the oil lobby . . .
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:42 PM   #54855
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
After thinking about this more and searching around the net I believe I know what the correct answer is. Ditch the stock plastic clamp that holds the thicker stock brake hose, and install an adel clamp that is the correct size to close around the shoulder (2) on the SS hose. This will prevent the hose from sliding down and contacting the rotor, and should prevent it from moving around and digging into the fork tube.
Put some rubber around the line to bulk it out to fit in the clamp. Doesn't touch the fork leg at all.

No problems for the last 4 years.
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