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Old 09-25-2011, 04:21 AM   #54841
mickd
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Location: brisbane,australia
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hi all
well i fitted a fmf slip on the other day and i think its running a bit lean,the spark plugs look a little grey/white,the bike is stock apart from the fmf slip on

it's bogging a little off idle,and has a small amount of over run,no much just a little,

can i adjust air-fuel screw from the out side of the carb?? if so were is it,a pic would be good,or do i have to get inside and adjust the jetting,

oh and if you like a muffler loud then get the fmf..very nicccccceeee

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mickd screwed with this post 09-25-2011 at 04:29 AM
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:09 AM   #54842
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickd View Post
can i adjust air-fuel screw from the out side of the carb?? if so were is it,a pic would be good,or do i have to get inside and adjust the jetting,
Its at the centre front and underneath the carburetor.
The gap between it and the engine case is fairly tight so you need a short slot screwdriver.

This is a TM40 but the BST40 is at the same position (but not a extended adjuster screw,it is recessed )

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Old 09-25-2011, 05:11 AM   #54843
East Coast Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ungeheuer View Post
Why not?
It is a great and rancorous debate, actually. I have used sunthetic oil in all my bikes on long term basis, and have NEVER had slippage. I stay away from the "energy conserving" oils, and stick with 5w40, 15w50 when I run synth. My 1982 Suzuki GS1100EZ (roughly 2.5 times the HP of a DR @ the rear wheel) has never had anything other than synth Mobil 1 15w50 since I have owned it. No clutch slippage in 50K+ miles, and the bike has just over 80K on the clocks...I am going to try Mobil Delvac 1300 in the GS this go around and get it analyzed by Blackstone to see how it does...

For your thumper, any good Diesel oil (Rotella, Mobil Delvac, Castrol...take your pick) will do just fine at a more economical price. I run Mobil Delvac 1300 in my thumper (I ride a KLR ) I have run Mobil 1 in mine with no issues, either.
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:53 AM   #54844
maynard911
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Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Cheers ADV G
Great info , always open to good advice i will be checking/cleaning the filter on a daily basis once in Africa along with oil,chain, tyres and the rest.
Had a look at filter skins for the KxN and they wanted $67 delivered out here to France !!!!! screw that !!! better off with some of our lasses tights (pantyhoses), Anyhow the UNI is on it's way for less than half that price.
Is it best to use bespoke filter oil or will 3 in 1 for eg. do ???????
Cheers Phil
Filter oil is best, $, but you don't use all that much. A good cheap alternative is chainsaw bar oil. Regular motor oil would be the third choice (the higher the viscosity, the better). 3 in 1 would be a poor choice due to it's light viscosity.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:35 AM   #54845
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by macrae85 View Post
You really are a fan of OEM parts!You forget that most OEM stuff is built to a budget by outside contractors
(Suzuki doesn't manufacture clutch plates).I cannot comment on Barnett,but you were saying the same about chains and sprockets,OEM is the last thing i'd use as a replacement,that's why we have things called upgrades.
A decent brand,such as Barnett or EBC will probably be as good if not better than OEM,these companies do massive testing on their products.It's usually the aftermarket firms that show the motorcycle manufacturers the way ahead through testing and racing!It's like shocks,would you rather have OEM over Ohlins or Wilbers?
The aftermarket do some things very well ... as you point out. Racing exhaust systems, suspension, seats and lots of other cool stuff. Wear items are popular too ... like brake pads.

But certain things I stick with OEM. Like internal motor parts. Clutch's are sort of an in-between item. I'm sure some of the aftermarket ones are fine ... but I also know the Suzuki plates are good too and that you don't need stiff racing rate springs on a DR650 clutch. Friction plates are no big deal, but the basket needs to be right. I'll take the Suzuki OEM one if replacing.

One has to know their bike to know when to go aftermarket and when to go with OEM parts. Different on every bike.

Certain OEM things are good ... some not so good. IE: The stock DR650 DID O- ring chain is not bad (good for maybe 15,000 miles) but I've used the DID VM-2 X ring chains for over 10 years and 100,000 miles. I get great service with the VM-2 chain. Over 25,000 miles.

Not sure about every other OEM, but I've had great luck with Suzuki OEM sprockets. I've tried 3 or 4 other brands and OEM are best in my experience ... and sometimes are cheapest. They are made in Japan. Most others are made in Thailand or China and some in the USA or EU. I like the made in Japan parts in general. Higher standard.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:42 AM   #54846
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Is it best to use bespoke filter oil or will 3 in 1 for eg. do ??????? Cheers Phil
I bought a liter of foam filter oil about 10 years ago and I'm still using it!
I prefer it ... it's a bit sticky. Chain Saw oil works too. Motor oil is OK but sort of flows down to bottom on filter and into air box. No big deal. They all trap the dirt ... and that's what is important!

In Maroc I'd just use what's convenient. I do carry a bit of grease to seal the filter lip along the sealing edge where it contacts the air box. The UNI filter will keep the dirt out as long as it's not clogged up. It can be very very dirty and still be doing it's job just fine. So don't over react on this. But don't let it clog. Then dirt will get sucked through.

Have a great trip ! Ride Safe!
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:48 AM   #54847
vinik
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KLX650r front end on a DR650?

hey guys.
I own a 99 DR650SE.
i recently found two KLX650R's in a pretty bad shape, but both have pretty good looking kayaba usd front ends and one even has a brembo front caliper.
what do you guys think? is it possible to do a swap? if it is, how hard will it be?
from searching the web i found only that dr750 (possibly 800 to, not sure which exactly, sr41, sr43?) swaps with the klx pretty easy.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:54 AM   #54848
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinik View Post
hey guys.
I own a 99 DR650SE.
i recently found two KLX650R's in a pretty bad shape, but both have pretty good looking kayaba usd front ends and one even has a brembo front caliper.
what do you guys think? is it possible to do a swap? if it is, how hard will it be?
from searching the web i found only that dr750 (possibly 800 to, not sure which exactly, sr41, sr43?) swaps with the klx pretty easy.
Try to find out if the steering bearings are the same. That will make the swap easy if they are. You'll likely have to use the Kaw wheel and brakes. I had a KDX200 that the bearing fell apart on a Saturday afternoon with a race the next day. Luckily my friends Yamaha IT200 had the same bearings and that saved my season. Bikes of similar size/weight should have a good chance of having the same bearings. Good luck and I hope it works out, so we all have another choice for our suspension needs.
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:07 PM   #54849
PHILinFRANCE
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Cheers Maynard911 and ADV G
Getting close now to Maroc , will post report here when done .....great site thanks again guys

Phil
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:20 PM   #54850
vinik
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Woohoo! according to allballs.com, the bearings are interchangeable! i wonder about the stem leangth and the clearance with the tank..?

i can get the whole front end off of a klx650r, including a brembo brake caliper (probably needs a rebuild), dont remmember the brake disc's size, il have to get a new one. brake hoses (probably bad condition, il buy steel brraided ones.) the usd shocks, triple tree, handle bar (i want a renthal one, dont remmember which one was on it) and every thing alse..
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:41 PM   #54851
B1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinik View Post
i can get the whole front end off of a klx650r, including a brembo brake caliper (probably needs a rebuild), dont remmember the brake disc's size..
use metalgear.com.au to get the disc size and bolt pattern (you may need to register to access the specs).

it'll be 250 or 290mm depending on your model. you can use metal gear to see if you can get a larger disc from another model to bolt on,although you'll need to make a caliper adapter to suit.
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:58 PM   #54852
Escaped
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I just replaced my clutch with Suzuki parts at approximately 30,000 miles. The friction plates were well worn but not completely worn out and I changed them as preventive maintenance. I went with heavy duty Barret springs but may go back to new stock springs because the heavy duty ones are very stiff at the clutch lever.

I tore own down the clutch in the first place because after a drop were the bike landed on the clutch side hard, the clutch would not fully disengage. It was still rideable but you could not push it with the clutch lever pulled in.

Also for most of the miles I used synthetic oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I've read about a couple worn out clutches this year on this thread ... but over the long run not many DR650 clutch failures reported on this thread ... or elsewhere in DR650 world.

Anyone know how many riders here on this thread have had to replace their stock clutch?

In my riding group of mostly older DR650's (six DR's) we've not had a clutch failure yet. That's about five years riding with these same guys (and gals) Two of our guys pulled the clutch plates doing the NSU fix and both bikes had plates that measured close to stock spec. They both left them in place. No probs thus far. Just lucky I guess.

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Old 09-25-2011, 01:23 PM   #54853
vinik
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ok, according to metal gear its 250... compared to dr's 290? what do you guys think?
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:15 PM   #54854
vintagespeed
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Originally Posted by vinik View Post
ok, according to metal gear its 250... compared to dr's 290? what do you guys think?
sounds like a good setup, you can upgrade the rotor to a 320 if needed. mine stops very very well with the 320mm.
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TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:19 PM   #54855
vintagespeed
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$22.50 Bi-Xenon HID. :)

picked up a bi-xenon (Hi and Low beam) HID kit for $45 shipped, cut down the harness to a single headlight bike setup and now have a spare bulb & ballast. practical math says this is $22.50 per bike.

love the light output, i know the cagers still wont see me but at least i wont be blind in the dark anymore.







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TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
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