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Old 09-29-2011, 09:16 PM   #54976
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
i've tried finding some thread about this with no luck. breaking down and posting...

my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain, especially when that terrain is far from level. sometimes it'll die after a long stretch of highway when i exit and pull in the clutch.

i bought the bike this spring with only 1700 miles on it, so it was sitting for a while. it's always seemed to run well except for this dying thing. it's now at somewhere south of 5000 miles.

any ideas you carb experts?
Not a carb expert, but I would check the side stand switch before moving on to the carb. The bouncing might be causing the side stand to bounce off the switch and cutting out the engine. Basically you can bypass it to see if it cures the problem. Lot of debate on this, so make your own decision to bypass or replace the switch. Might just be a weak sidestand spring as well allowing it to move off the switch.
Good luck!
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:09 PM   #54977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
i've tried finding some thread about this with no luck. breaking down and posting...

my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain, especially when that terrain is far from level. sometimes it'll die after a long stretch of highway when i exit and pull in the clutch.

i bought the bike this spring with only 1700 miles on it, so it was sitting for a while. it's always seemed to run well except for this dying thing. it's now at somewhere south of 5000 miles.

any ideas you carb experts?
I never experienced the engine stalling from bumps or uneven terrain, but I did have an issue for a while when I pulled the clutch in from highway speeds the engine would die. I messed with it for a while, and adjusted the throttle stop screw to adjust idle rpm, only do this when the engine is thoroughly warm though. Since then I've installed a jet kit which helped it run a bit better.

You may consider removing/disassembling the carb and cleaning it in carb cleaner (soaking it), then while your at it install a extended fuel screw so you can adjust idle mixture, and even a step further you could shim up the needle a bit. That's what i would do, but always start with the simple.

edit: checking the float height and float needle for it's condition is another thought... to help you tear one apart get a service manual, and use this link: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:35 PM   #54978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
i've tried finding some thread about this with no luck. breaking down and posting...

my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain, especially when that terrain is far from level. sometimes it'll die after a long stretch of highway when i exit and pull in the clutch.

i bought the bike this spring with only 1700 miles on it, so it was sitting for a while. it's always seemed to run well except for this dying thing. it's now at somewhere south of 5000 miles.

any ideas you carb experts?
did you clean out the carb? does it pop alot on decel?
you could have a clogged pilot jet from old fuel.
run a strong dose of techron through the tank to start.
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:36 PM   #54979
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if you soak it use the Pine Sol soak method.
it's safe on rubber.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
I never experienced the engine stalling from bumps or uneven terrain, but I did have an issue for a while when I pulled the clutch in from highway speeds the engine would die. I messed with it for a while, and adjusted the throttle stop screw to adjust idle rpm, only do this when the engine is thoroughly warm though. Since then I've installed a jet kit which helped it run a bit better.

You may consider removing/disassembling the carb and cleaning it in carb cleaner (soaking it), then while your at it install a extended fuel screw so you can adjust idle mixture, and even a step further you could shim up the needle a bit. That's what i would do, but always start with the simple.

edit: checking the float height and float needle for it's condition is another thought... to help you tear one apart get a service manual, and use this link: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
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NM map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:12 AM   #54980
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another vote for inspection of side stand switch.

grab a pipe clamp that will make it around the stand and frame. head out to your favorite bumpy trail. install pipe clamp to make sure stand cannot move. See if stalling problem goes away or not.

my DR runs laying on it's side. The carb is pretty tolerant of running at different angles (bumps, jumps, etc). Carb is logical next place to look but as a betting man I'd put my money on the side switch.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:36 AM   #54981
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right! side stand switch! duh...

i'll totally start there and check back with ya'll. thanks so much.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:56 AM   #54982
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Need help with some electrical questions

I'm so electrically challenged it's almost embarrassing so please be patient.

What I want to do is hook up a bunch of gizmos to my 2010 DR650. I've already (successfully it seems ) changed out the stock headlight for a HID unit from Procycle. Nice difference. Other things that I now have running directly from the battery posts are a plug-in for Gerbings heated clothing, a plug-in for a battery tender, and the positive lead for the HID light. It's getting a little crowded on those two battery terminals, not the mention the mass of wiring and fuses collecting under the seat.

Other stuff I want to add on are a Garmin GPS, USB charger port for an Ipod, a Steibel horn, a 12V powerlet for an air pump, and a Trail Tech Voyager dash (not sure yet if that requires 12V power).

Any recommendations for auxiliary fuse blocks or alternate solutions. What are you all doing for your electrical needs? I think I'd like to have it all set up so that power only runs to the accessories when the bike is running. That way I'll never wake up to a dead battery because I forget to turn something off.

Suggestions? All will be appreciated.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:56 AM   #54983
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shameless plug: i have an unmounted HDB setup for DR that I'm not going to use if someone wants to save a buck or 10.
just haven't gotten around to shooting pictures and putting in flea market.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
Interesting.... earlier when I was posting the measurements, I went digging through my old PayPal receipt from when I placed my order with HDB... that's where I got the figures... and I remember when I placed my order in January, I didn't go by what the website said, rather, I used my digital capliper to take an acurate measurement.

For the record, I have 2007 RMZ250 forks and triples.

Now I'm going to measure again.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:22 AM   #54984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmmwv15 View Post
The procycle kit I got was marked as 6000K, supposed to be bright white, (has just a hint of blue). If I can find a 4500K bulb I'll see how I like it.
get the 4800K, you'll be much happier with the light pattern. the 6000k is blue, especially at night you notice all the signs and anything white is blue. it's not a huge deal because i bought mine to make me more visible on the freeway in traffic, but it's still blue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
....Any recommendations for auxiliary fuse blocks or alternate solutions.....
run 2 wires up from the battery (hot & ground) to a fused 30A relay behind the cowl, triggered by the unused ignition switch plug (brown plug behind cowl), to a small 8 wire distribution block. plug all your goodies into that. use one side of the distribution block for HOT +, the other side for ground - make sure the ground connects to the battery ground wire on the relay.
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:22 PM   #54985
SprintST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
get the 4800K, you'll be much happier with the light pattern. the 6000k is blue, especially at night you notice all the signs and anything white is blue. it's not a huge deal because i bought mine to make me more visible on the freeway in traffic, but it's still blue.



run 2 wires up from the battery (hot & ground) to a fused 30A relay behind the cowl, triggered by the unused ignition switch plug (brown plug behind cowl), to a small 8 wire distribution block. plug all your goodies into that. use one side of the distribution block for HOT +, the other side for ground - make sure the ground connects to the battery ground wire on the relay.
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:05 PM   #54986
eakins
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updated wolfman side racks w/ hard bag mount option.

rack pics:
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info thread:
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:47 PM   #54987
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Wolfman Rocks!!! Really good stuff and keeps on trying to make it BETTER! PLUS it's MADE IN THE USA!!!
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:47 PM   #54988
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
...I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible.....
yes, good point, place the fuse as close to the battery as you can. and use a fairly substantial gauge of wire since you're only going to run 2 wires to power all that stuff. something like 8-10ga should be good enough.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:55 PM   #54989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
Well, let's see now............. electricity in a wire travels at the speed of light in a vacuum (186,000 miles per second) so......... if I make this wire a foot shorter the fuse will blow how much sooner.....hmmmm

Having a short wire between the battery and the fuse does make sense because until the fuse the wire itself is unprotected and if it should short out 'things get messy' (that's a technical electrical term). The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:03 PM   #54990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
right! side stand switch! duh...

i'll totally start there and check back with ya'll. thanks so much.
"my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain"

A perfectly logical suggestion for the reason you site.

As to the dying when you pull in the clutch, my choke cable was broken at the carb (the threaded plastic body) and it would open the choke slightly and it would die at idle at stops.
Another culprit could be the tiny filter in the inlet barb, You have to take the fuel line off the carb to pull it out.

I took my kickstand switch off the bike because it was doing exactly what you say is happening on bumpy/rocky terrain.
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