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Old 09-29-2011, 11:36 PM   #54976
eakins
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if you soak it use the Pine Sol soak method.
it's safe on rubber.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
I never experienced the engine stalling from bumps or uneven terrain, but I did have an issue for a while when I pulled the clutch in from highway speeds the engine would die. I messed with it for a while, and adjusted the throttle stop screw to adjust idle rpm, only do this when the engine is thoroughly warm though. Since then I've installed a jet kit which helped it run a bit better.

You may consider removing/disassembling the carb and cleaning it in carb cleaner (soaking it), then while your at it install a extended fuel screw so you can adjust idle mixture, and even a step further you could shim up the needle a bit. That's what i would do, but always start with the simple.

edit: checking the float height and float needle for it's condition is another thought... to help you tear one apart get a service manual, and use this link: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:12 AM   #54977
TinkerinWstuff
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another vote for inspection of side stand switch.

grab a pipe clamp that will make it around the stand and frame. head out to your favorite bumpy trail. install pipe clamp to make sure stand cannot move. See if stalling problem goes away or not.

my DR runs laying on it's side. The carb is pretty tolerant of running at different angles (bumps, jumps, etc). Carb is logical next place to look but as a betting man I'd put my money on the side switch.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:36 AM   #54978
Harpua
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right! side stand switch! duh...

i'll totally start there and check back with ya'll. thanks so much.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:56 AM   #54979
SprintST
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Need help with some electrical questions

I'm so electrically challenged it's almost embarrassing so please be patient.

What I want to do is hook up a bunch of gizmos to my 2010 DR650. I've already (successfully it seems ) changed out the stock headlight for a HID unit from Procycle. Nice difference. Other things that I now have running directly from the battery posts are a plug-in for Gerbings heated clothing, a plug-in for a battery tender, and the positive lead for the HID light. It's getting a little crowded on those two battery terminals, not the mention the mass of wiring and fuses collecting under the seat.

Other stuff I want to add on are a Garmin GPS, USB charger port for an Ipod, a Steibel horn, a 12V powerlet for an air pump, and a Trail Tech Voyager dash (not sure yet if that requires 12V power).

Any recommendations for auxiliary fuse blocks or alternate solutions. What are you all doing for your electrical needs? I think I'd like to have it all set up so that power only runs to the accessories when the bike is running. That way I'll never wake up to a dead battery because I forget to turn something off.

Suggestions? All will be appreciated.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:56 AM   #54980
Zapp22
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shameless plug: i have an unmounted HDB setup for DR that I'm not going to use if someone wants to save a buck or 10.
just haven't gotten around to shooting pictures and putting in flea market.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
Interesting.... earlier when I was posting the measurements, I went digging through my old PayPal receipt from when I placed my order with HDB... that's where I got the figures... and I remember when I placed my order in January, I didn't go by what the website said, rather, I used my digital capliper to take an acurate measurement.

For the record, I have 2007 RMZ250 forks and triples.

Now I'm going to measure again.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:22 AM   #54981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmmwv15 View Post
The procycle kit I got was marked as 6000K, supposed to be bright white, (has just a hint of blue). If I can find a 4500K bulb I'll see how I like it.
get the 4800K, you'll be much happier with the light pattern. the 6000k is blue, especially at night you notice all the signs and anything white is blue. it's not a huge deal because i bought mine to make me more visible on the freeway in traffic, but it's still blue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
....Any recommendations for auxiliary fuse blocks or alternate solutions.....
run 2 wires up from the battery (hot & ground) to a fused 30A relay behind the cowl, triggered by the unused ignition switch plug (brown plug behind cowl), to a small 8 wire distribution block. plug all your goodies into that. use one side of the distribution block for HOT +, the other side for ground - make sure the ground connects to the battery ground wire on the relay.
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:22 PM   #54982
SprintST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
get the 4800K, you'll be much happier with the light pattern. the 6000k is blue, especially at night you notice all the signs and anything white is blue. it's not a huge deal because i bought mine to make me more visible on the freeway in traffic, but it's still blue.



run 2 wires up from the battery (hot & ground) to a fused 30A relay behind the cowl, triggered by the unused ignition switch plug (brown plug behind cowl), to a small 8 wire distribution block. plug all your goodies into that. use one side of the distribution block for HOT +, the other side for ground - make sure the ground connects to the battery ground wire on the relay.
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:05 PM   #54983
eakins
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updated wolfman side racks w/ hard bag mount option.

rack pics:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=55102
info thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729632
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:47 PM   #54984
drsmiley
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Wolfman Rocks!!! Really good stuff and keeps on trying to make it BETTER! PLUS it's MADE IN THE USA!!!
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:47 PM   #54985
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
...I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible.....
yes, good point, place the fuse as close to the battery as you can. and use a fairly substantial gauge of wire since you're only going to run 2 wires to power all that stuff. something like 8-10ga should be good enough.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:55 PM   #54986
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
Well, let's see now............. electricity in a wire travels at the speed of light in a vacuum (186,000 miles per second) so......... if I make this wire a foot shorter the fuse will blow how much sooner.....hmmmm

Having a short wire between the battery and the fuse does make sense because until the fuse the wire itself is unprotected and if it should short out 'things get messy' (that's a technical electrical term). The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:03 PM   #54987
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
right! side stand switch! duh...

i'll totally start there and check back with ya'll. thanks so much.
"my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain"

A perfectly logical suggestion for the reason you site.

As to the dying when you pull in the clutch, my choke cable was broken at the carb (the threaded plastic body) and it would open the choke slightly and it would die at idle at stops.
Another culprit could be the tiny filter in the inlet barb, You have to take the fuel line off the carb to pull it out.

I took my kickstand switch off the bike because it was doing exactly what you say is happening on bumpy/rocky terrain.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:06 PM   #54988
weerider
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stickers

can anyone help me determine if I can take my stickers off the gas tank without wrecking the paint
the large vstrom stickers they are a bit too much
thanks
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:17 PM   #54989
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weerider View Post
can anyone help me determine if I can take my stickers off the gas tank without wrecking the paint
the large vstrom stickers they are a bit too much
thanks
you are wrong thread.
this is dr not dl650
and the strom is a beast so wrong area too.


i had a strom...if they are from older bike they tend to remove paint at the same time.
use a hair dryer to lossen the glue.
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NM map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:04 PM   #54990
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
yes, good point, place the fuse as close to the battery as you can. and use a fairly substantial gauge of wire since you're only going to run 2 wires to power all that stuff. something like 8-10ga should be good enough.
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.
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